Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2007 F350 Running Extremely Rich When Accelerating From A Stop
May 20, 2017
I have a completely stock 2007 F350 turbo diesel with 98000 miles that i just bought . When accelerating from a stop, it runs so rich that it will barely move and it accelerates very slowly . It burbles excessively and spews black smoke . It slowly builds rpm . As it builds rpm it runs slightly better and the black smoke turns into a medium gray the faster it goes . It takes around 20 seconds to reach 3000 rpm on level ground with the accelerator pedal half way down . Once it reaches 3000 rpm, it runs fine and hauls a_s but looks like it still smokes a little.
The temp gauge stays right in the middle and it does not run hot . It starts and idles fine. The check engine light is on but i have not read the codes yet and can't do that until monday. I have read that it could be an injector that is stuck open but do not know how to check for that. I am a vintage car mechanic and engineer but I know zero about newer computer vehicles and very little about diesels.
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I recently (in the last few months) have noticed my truck (1999 F350 duallie) seeming to be running very rich … I pull a 32' trailer with it and noticed on the art few trips the front and right side of the trailer covered with diesel fuel spots when I got home …. It also smells very rich when idling…. The last couple times I started it in the mornings it seems to crank a very long time before it starts …it still runs but its got issues evidently … it has these 3 codes :
P1280
P0475
P1670
The 1670 will clear , but the other 2 I can't clear, they are right back every time you turn the key on …
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I just bought a 2007 F350 6.0 two days ago, so I was giving the truck a good wash today using a electric pressure washer. The engine bay was pretty dirty so I decided to take some soap and a brush to it. After cleaning it I let it sit for a while in the sun to dry. (engine was stone cold). After it had completely dried out I go in and it cranked right up. I let it idle for a good minute-minute and a half put it in drive and pulled away slowly, right when I touched the accelerator it started running rough, so I popped it into neutral and let it idle for a sec but it was still running really rough so I cut it off not wanting to damage anything worse.
I let it sit and tried to start it again, it just turned over and over. I checked the oil level it was good. So I pushed it back into my driveway to figure it out. I took ICP connector out and tried to start it, just turned over and over. took fuel filter out it was just replaced 2K miles ago it looked a little dirty but not super bad. I put that back in. took icp out again and tried to start it and it started but ran super rough and was dumping black smoke out.
I checked back all ficm connectors and they were all connected. I haven't checked the voltage on that yet, but plan to do that tomorrow. the previous owner had the ficm go bag about a year ago and he sent it off to ficmrepair.com and they fixed it for him. also he had the stand pipes and dumby plugs done as well as the stc on hpop. im kinda at a loss on where to go now other than to check voltage on ficm.
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On my 2005 F350 Super duty 6.0 Power Stroke Diesel I have extremely high oil temps when towing and also have a warm start problem. I need to tackle both these problems at the same time but I am struggling to find the correct (and still affordable) parts for this. My local parts store and Ford dealer are way over priced.
First, I need an oil cooler (truck has an EGR delete so no EGR cooler).
Second, I want to replace all the seals in the high pressure oil system and replace the HPOP elbow.(Already replaced IPR)
Third, I would like to do the Blue Spring update as well while I am in there.
Looking for part numbers or kits numbers. I usually do all my own research but right now I am way too swamped at work and home to find these parts.
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I'm having this weird problem with my car, 90% of the time it will start to run rich, until it reaches normal temp, to the point that I can smell it coming out from the exhaust. LTFT is at around -15% and it seems to go down after cruising for some time but will go back to negative at idle. My first suspect was the FPR so I checked it and found no gas smell on the vacuum hose, then I decided to run the engine with the vacuum hose disconnected and see if any fuel would come out, 5 minutes later and it was still dry.
There is a chance that the MAF sensor is bad, I'm 90% sure it is, because it will sometimes read 2.9-3.1 gps at idle and according to the rule of thumb of 1gps per liter of displacement, it shouldn't go that low but I might be wrong about it; I disconnected the MAF and the smell was still there, today while driving it was reading 5.45gps (A/C was on) and the smell was still present; car also feels sluggish from time to time only at normal operating temperature (which I assume is because of it running rich).
There is also a vibration felt through the steering wheel only while idling in gear at all temps. Today when I got home and after I turned off the engine I heard a noise like water was running. It was coming from the car so I tried to find where the noise was coming from and it's from the fuel tank. I removed the fuel cap and lots of air came out (or sucked in?). I reinstalled the cap and pressure started to build up almost immediately! I have a video, which I'm sharing, so you can see what I'm talking about; I was even able to hear the fuel tank expanding because of the pressure inside, not sure if you can hear it towards the end of the video (when I put the phone under the car). [URL] .....
It also happened today that I was cruising and the engine hit the rev limiter after I stepped on the gas (WOT) to overtake another car. I immediately removed the foot from the pedal and gave it less gas and it acted normal, no slipping from the transmission at any other time. There is one more thing that I'm not sure about it. Every morning, the engine will sputter for 1 or 2 seconds after starting it but it will be fine for the rest of the day. I once tried disconnecting different sensors from the engine and the only one that seemed to make a difference (it didn't sputter) was the TPS.
Things done so far:
- I replaced the EVAP purge solenoid (P0441 was present) back in february.
- Rubber pieces at charcoal canister also replaced, old ones were rotted to the point my hands would look black just by rubbing against the hoses.
- Upper intake manifold was also replaced by me in november last year.
- New NGK spark plugs and OEM spark plug wires last december.
- Cleaned the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner, no dice. Used brake clean, no change. It's a reman Cardone from autozone, which tells us it's 90% sure it's broken.
- New Duralast MAP sensor back in 2010 because a mechanic broke the original.
- 10qts transmission fluid and filter replacement 2 weeks ago.
- Fuel pump was also replaced back in 2009 maybe, can't remember the exact year. The old one would start making some kind of a hissing noise after prolonged driving.
NO DTC'S PRESENT. I once checked Mode $06 data with a mid-level scanner I have (AutoXray EZ-scan 6000) and saw a test had failed, I think it said something about the MAF and EGR. IHaven't connected my fuel pressure gauge tester. Since I can smell it running rich, I didn't think it would be necessary. I'm thinking that there could be a problem with the EVAP system that's causing the excessive pressure in the tank but I'm not sure what that could be. Is there any chance that the pressure is also causing the rich mixture?
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I have a 2004 f350 with a 03 bullet proofed motor. The truck did not have any power and the turbo wouldn't support until I put a new vgt solenoid in and it ran great for about 3 miles... Stalled doing 65 kinda lacked power while accelerating but got up to speed quick. I pulled over and no start. It is running error code kam on pcm from disconnecting batteries but could this cause the stall and no start? Or should I be looking into icp sensor?
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I have a 2006 F350 6.0 Diesel with 125,000 miles.
1st issue....When accelerating the fan comes on and it sounds like a jet engine taking off. Let off and it goes away! It acts like it does when you're towing something and put it under a load but you're not towing anything?
2nd issue...when towing a month ago hit a hill and totally lost power it was down to 25-30 miles an hour with it floored. Tranny gauge got up to about 3/4 but never any further. Let off pedal to try and get new gear and did not work, was like it was in a limp mode but never threw the wrench up. Finally got to top of hill and she cruised down other side just fine. No loss of power tranny back to normal. Then towed over weekend on flat land and tranny gauge went almost to overheat. Didn't seem to have power issue.
Since 1st tow issue it had 8 new injectors installed but hasn't seemed to change much. Fan issue was there before injectors and new injectors only, worked only with the cutting out it would do when cold and when driving in overdrive. Computer issue? Relays?
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While I am loving the fuel millage and ride of my new truck, I have my first concern. In the last few weeks i have hauled a truck bed full of dirt, and 3300 lbs of sod. both times i would use tow haul mode, and while the truck had plenty of power, it would shutter when accelerating from a stop. Mostly first gear 0-15 mph.
This is my truck with a fancy electronic controlled transmission, so on the old pickups this would be a torque converter slipping, but all the ford dealer wants to tell me is "its electrical and they want to reflash my transmission". I am at 26k miles and have less than 10k left on my warranty...
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I got a 2005 f350 6.0 deleted and studded with air dog 2 4g pump, 125k miles. It started running rough then just died all within a few miles tuner showed code for injector 6 and ficm towed into ford dealer didnt have time to mess with it. They said ficm was bad had them replaced it then they said i need whole new fuel system lines,harness,pump,sending unit ,tank the whole 9 yrds. Which i thought was uncalled for so i called up airdog which system i had on there and they laughed and said ford garage is full of bs that they will upgrade my pump to the 4g and new harness.
So I took that stuff to garage had them swap it out and now they said come get the truck they wont work on it anymore that now it needs 3 injectors and they wont touch it with aftermarket fuel system on it. So I go to drive it home and it starts but runs rough and u can hold it to the floor and it wont budge bearly idles up and builds no boost my tuner is showing injector 2,3,4 now which wasn't a problem before i took it into the garage. So im not sure what happened to cause this all to happen but before i sink any more money into it is the 3 injectors enough cause to make it not build boost now .
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I have a 2011 F250 6.7 Turbo Diesel I recently purchased. I am hearing a noise when accelerating from a stop. The only time I'm hearing it is when the window is down. The noise sounds like someone is tapping an aluminum pop can. It is easily reproducible as well. I decided to get under the truck and have my wife toggle the transmission from park to reverse. They noise does not occur unless one foot is placed on the brake and the accelerator is lightly pressed. (My wife had the opportunity to run me over and claim it as an accident but lucky me she decided not too). Below is a video. I had a hard time locating the noise. It sounds like it may be coming from the exhaust or drive shaft. The drive shaft does not spin when toggling from reverse to drive but the ticking noise can be simulated and heard when lightly pressing the gas while holding the brake. Something need lubed somewhere?
Clicking noise - YouTube ....
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2006 F350 6.0 ... I am piling up parts for a bulletproof party later this summer. It has gotten grumpy ahead of schedule. I will hook up the AE tomorrow for consultation.
In the meantime. Running rough at 50. Seems to accelerate from a stop semi ok. Sitting at idle, holding rpm at 1750 I hear kind of a thump under the hood and the rpm drops 300, then slowly finds it way back to 1750 and it repeats itself.
This thump has not been noticed in the past. Could this be the VGT not working as expected?
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I have a buddy at work who has an 04 f350 6.0 that is running very rough. we put a scanner on it and disabled the injectors and 1,7,8 have no change. He checked the FICM voltage and is getting 48 volts on crank and run. He checked the wiring for anything loose or rubbed but nothing seems wrong.
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Looking for the right direction to disable or find out how to disable my factory daytime running lights on my 2015 F350 ? i have installed a set of Recon projectors with Haols & LEDs & want to have just the Halos & LEDs as my daytime running lights & have the factory(now the projectors) disabled so that once i turn the switch on the dash to "on" or "auto" my headlights will turn on(the projectors) and the "Halos" & "LEDs" will turn off......
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2003 F350 6.0 with 290k+ ... It has a skip in the engine at idle and running. At times when running down the road skip seems to get worse. Changed both fuel filters, didn't work. Truck start up is normal, no leaks, and flashing no codes.
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My truck recently has been giving me the issue of wither having no boost , bogging down as its trying to excelerate , then going into overboost. It idles fine , i have cleaned out the egr . I'm at a complete list on what to do at this point the truck is a 2007 F250 6.0l
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I have a 2007 F350 6.0 Diesel. Truck starts and runs great for about 10 miles and then loses power and slows down til it dies, it does this without any kind of warning and does not rattle or anything. If i let it sit for about 15 min it will start right up and drive fine for another 10 miles or so and do the same thing.
It did the same thing in December but would not restart at all and the ficm was the cause at that time so i went ahead and replaced the ficm just to eliminate it. I also replaced the fuel pump and the ipr and icp valves are good. The only engine code has to do with the fuel level sensor and that has been on for a year. The egr was recently replaced, the hpop is putting out the psi that it is supposed to and there are not any internal air leaks.
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My 2007 F350 CC DRW KR has developed a serious oil leak recently. The oil runs down both sides of the bell housing but seems to be worse on the passengers side. It only leaks after five or so minutes of running and not while off. I have searched literally hundreds of threads and found only one that seemed similar and the resolution was never posted.
The truck is stock with only a turbo back 4" exhaust. I initially thought of the STC fitting failing and cracking the rear engine cover, but I still have very good ICP (650 almost immediately when cranking and at idle, 3000+ when on the throttle).
I plan to pull the turbo next weekend to check the drain tube and HPOP cover as well as checking/replacing the STC fitting (since I'm in there).
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Lately it seems that my 6.0 cranks over longer before it starts. it used to turn over quick and start not it turns over at least 5-8 seconds maybe more. .
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I just bought a 2007 F350 CCSB 6.0 auto 4x4 with 113k miles on it, it does have the 5th wheel goose neck trailer hitch in the bed...anyway of course when I looked at the rig everything checked out and now I am getting a U1900 for ABS CAN communication...I should add that the ABS Light itself is not on, just the CEL...I have a feeling it has something to do with the wiring that the PO maybe had done to wire for his 5th wheel hitch?...I checked all the ABS related fuses in both fuse boxes and they're all fine...
While reading another post on the possibility of the brake pedal position switch up on the pedal itself being bad, someone mentioned that the wiring may be jacked up due someone adding wiring in for the 5th wheel hitch...I also checked the brake pressure switch on the nose of the master cylinder and that looked clean although I didn't test it...should I just replace these since they're pretty cheap or is there something I should look for in the wiring underneath the dash? Oh and of course my cruise control isn't working either...likely because of this ABS wiring issue..
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Truck is an '07 F350 Supercrew, 8ft bed, SRW, 2wd. I bought the truck last month and noticed a low frequency driveline vibration starting at about 45 mph and is noticeable to about 65 mph. Feels like a bad u-joint. So I pulled the drive shaft (two piece) and checked the joints. They seemed find so I sent it to a commercial truck shop that does driveshaft work. Had the joints replaced and the shaft rebalanced.
Re-installed drive shaft and went for a test drive. No real change in the vibration. The hangar bearing seemed fine so it wasn't changed. Doesn't feel like a wheel out of balance. My experience tells me its a drive shaft.
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i have a 2007 f350 6.0 and it was running fine. I parked it in my driveway for a couple of months and then went down one day to start it. The first day it started but the second day i went down it wouldn't start. it would crank but wouldn't fire up. I changed the oil, repaired the FICM and still got nothing. Then i took a generic scanner and got the code p2285. I replace the ICP but still no start. I have also changed both batteries. I'm not getting any codes right now either. What is going on?It has around 229,000 miles
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