Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2007 F350 Battery Died / DTC P0606
May 30, 2016
My 2007 F350 6.0l DRW LARIAT battery voltage was too low to restart her while out and about today. I did notice that she seemed kind of when I started her up leaving my town to got over two towns away. So i set my Scan Gauge to check voltage and it was low considering she was running, in the low 12V range with radio and a/c running. So I figured the regulator is on it's way out but I this be able to restart her up. Anyway after a jump she started right up and I was able to get home no issues. After I jump started her the check engine icon was illuminated with DTC P0606. I'm not 100% on why this trouble code was recorded other than the fact that I tried to start her up which caused battery to fall below the 9.6V threshold to power the PCM. The voltage was still low after jumping her, so I figured i better swap in a new alternator but what kind. I hear that the alternator is an issue with this truck, so what should I get?? What alternator is proven to last on these trucks?
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Going down road truck just died replaced fuel filters still wouldn't start no codes check all fuses and made sure the FICM was plugged in....
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M buddy's truck just died and won't start. So far we have changed the ficm because the voltage would fluctuate down to 25, the ficm harness as it was chaffed through and bare wires touching each other, both fuel filter, tested the alternator, new batteries, new air filter and bubble test. The truck spins over and tries to go but won't. I have also tried starting it with the icp disconnected with no change. The secondary filter had lots of bubbles coming into it while filling it for the bubble test, but we did that a few times and no more bubbles. When trying to start you can sound fuel flowing through the secondary filter, is this normal? While trying to start there is black smoke coming out of the tail pipe. We have also tried leaving it plugged in over night and no go.
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2006 f350 6.0..... I was driving for about 10 hours and truck ran fine. Until with no warning it just died. Got it towed home and now I try to start. It turns over fine but no fire.... I know not to use but we used starter fluid to see of it would fire thinking maybe file filter bit still no fire with the starter fluid. I find it weird that it won't fire even on stater fluid. The engine oil was very low as well but since topped it up.
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My 2003 f-250 6.0l has not been starting. I have connected a scan tool and I am getting around 1000 psi icp. The FICM voltage is 47.5v however when I cycled the key it dropped to 43.5 then started climbing to 48, but I am not getting FICM sync. I does eventually start when I do get sync. It seems to run fine after it starts. It does not do this all of the time. But this morning It cranked until the battery died. New FICM?
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I have a 2005 f250 just hit 180k last week and it has the 6.0 in it, egr deleted, sinister diesel oil cooler, stc livewire tuner with street tune installed, air raid air intake. Wicked wheel 2 in the turbo. Its throwing codes P0606 and P0341. Cam sensor has been replaced and the other code is a mystery to me. Its been randomly shutting off like you turned off the ignition all day today.
When it stalls it takes 3-4 times to get it fire back up. When you first go to start it the pressure gauge reads 0 but once it fires up it says theres pressure. Also some of the days it never stalls and runs like a champ but other days i cant drive more the 10 feet and then it stalls. I have no idea whats going on with this truck and ive put lots of money into it doing customization and stuff like that so I am hoping that its not on its last leg....
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I have a 07 6.0 that won't start it died a few weeks ago while driving. Being a mechanic I've done numerous things to the truck in order to fix all the common 6.0 problems but can't figure this one out. It will crank and get oil pressure and fuel pressure but seems to not be getting fuel. The IPR valve isn't clogged I tried with 2 working valves nothing worked. Along with changing the ficm. The connections to the ficm are clean and all in tact. I have an edge evolution chip that isn't even showing any codes. Not sure what to try next since I don't have any codes to go off of.
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Battery light came on today. Checked voltage with truck running and only getting 11.8 / 11.9 volts at each battery. Alternator shot or ????? 2004 F350
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I have a 2003 F 350 Crewcab 6.0 liter SD. I was preparing my truck for the first haul of the Summer. I noticed that my batteries were on their way out after 2 years old. I replaced them and noticed I had an intermittent battery light coming on/off on/off. It seemed like only at lower RPMs. So the day of my trip, I ended up changing out the alternator.
The trip went fine, however, I noticed that pesky battery light came on and then off a few times. I also got a hot plastic type smell from the front of my truck.....you know that hot plastic smell Anyway, I got home just fine. Via Torque Pro, my battery volts were reading 12.2ish when my battery light came on, but then would quickly return to 13.9.
Since I"ve been home, I have read about fixing the grounding points for our trucks and also adding a second ground wire and a second hot wire from battery to battery. I can not find exactly where the ground's lead to. I still have that fricking battery light coming on .....more often that not. How to chase this problem.
First I need to find out where the ground wires go to. My volts of recent have been reading 11.5-12ish when the truck is running and the friggin battery light is on. I did search and found a few links to this problem, but where to find the grounding points.
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Went out to start my truck this morning and it wouldn't start. Cranks fine and almost started once but died. Checked all fuses all my voltages are good. Oil and coolant are good. When I turn the key on I can hear the fuel pump and sounds like it's priming correctly. Might be an issue with a clogged fuel filter? Maybe? Haven't had any problems or issues otherwise.
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am in possession of my fianc's F350. The battery light kept coming on, I changed both batteries... twice. I pulled the alt and took it to 2 different stores, asking them each to test it twice, and it checks out good. Drove it to a family function in Sept and it died (no lights, no dings, just completely dead), couldn't get it to jump so I had to have it towed. Tow truck driver said it was probably the starter solenoid, but I couldn't get any confirmation. Had a charger/jumper hooked up to it and got gage movement, dings and heard a clicking sound when I tried to start it.... still no jump. Is this a starter issue, or an electrical issue?
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I have not started my truck for some time (about 3 months) and the battery went dead. I recharged the battery and started her up. I then drove my truck about 5 miles and noticed that the water temp gauge was pegged to overheat...unbelievable! So of course I stopped the truck at the the nearest spot that had a water hose. The water was about 2-3 liters low as I could tell. This should not have caused the engine to overheat though. So what happened here. The engine ran ok back home but now I do not know what to do. Is it an electrical issue where the cooling system has a valve that is signaled electronically to open for the water to flow thru the system??
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I have a 2007 F350 6.0 Diesel. Truck starts and runs great for about 10 miles and then loses power and slows down til it dies, it does this without any kind of warning and does not rattle or anything. If i let it sit for about 15 min it will start right up and drive fine for another 10 miles or so and do the same thing.
It did the same thing in December but would not restart at all and the ficm was the cause at that time so i went ahead and replaced the ficm just to eliminate it. I also replaced the fuel pump and the ipr and icp valves are good. The only engine code has to do with the fuel level sensor and that has been on for a year. The egr was recently replaced, the hpop is putting out the psi that it is supposed to and there are not any internal air leaks.
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My 2007 F350 CC DRW KR has developed a serious oil leak recently. The oil runs down both sides of the bell housing but seems to be worse on the passengers side. It only leaks after five or so minutes of running and not while off. I have searched literally hundreds of threads and found only one that seemed similar and the resolution was never posted.
The truck is stock with only a turbo back 4" exhaust. I initially thought of the STC fitting failing and cracking the rear engine cover, but I still have very good ICP (650 almost immediately when cranking and at idle, 3000+ when on the throttle).
I plan to pull the turbo next weekend to check the drain tube and HPOP cover as well as checking/replacing the STC fitting (since I'm in there).
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Lately it seems that my 6.0 cranks over longer before it starts. it used to turn over quick and start not it turns over at least 5-8 seconds maybe more. .
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I just bought a 2007 F350 CCSB 6.0 auto 4x4 with 113k miles on it, it does have the 5th wheel goose neck trailer hitch in the bed...anyway of course when I looked at the rig everything checked out and now I am getting a U1900 for ABS CAN communication...I should add that the ABS Light itself is not on, just the CEL...I have a feeling it has something to do with the wiring that the PO maybe had done to wire for his 5th wheel hitch?...I checked all the ABS related fuses in both fuse boxes and they're all fine...
While reading another post on the possibility of the brake pedal position switch up on the pedal itself being bad, someone mentioned that the wiring may be jacked up due someone adding wiring in for the 5th wheel hitch...I also checked the brake pressure switch on the nose of the master cylinder and that looked clean although I didn't test it...should I just replace these since they're pretty cheap or is there something I should look for in the wiring underneath the dash? Oh and of course my cruise control isn't working either...likely because of this ABS wiring issue..
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Truck is an '07 F350 Supercrew, 8ft bed, SRW, 2wd. I bought the truck last month and noticed a low frequency driveline vibration starting at about 45 mph and is noticeable to about 65 mph. Feels like a bad u-joint. So I pulled the drive shaft (two piece) and checked the joints. They seemed find so I sent it to a commercial truck shop that does driveshaft work. Had the joints replaced and the shaft rebalanced.
Re-installed drive shaft and went for a test drive. No real change in the vibration. The hangar bearing seemed fine so it wasn't changed. Doesn't feel like a wheel out of balance. My experience tells me its a drive shaft.
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i have a 2007 f350 6.0 and it was running fine. I parked it in my driveway for a couple of months and then went down one day to start it. The first day it started but the second day i went down it wouldn't start. it would crank but wouldn't fire up. I changed the oil, repaired the FICM and still got nothing. Then i took a generic scanner and got the code p2285. I replace the ICP but still no start. I have also changed both batteries. I'm not getting any codes right now either. What is going on?It has around 229,000 miles
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2007 350 the truck sat overnight (15 hrs) I went to start the truck and it had to crank for about 3 seconds which is abnormal for my truck?? It was about 80 degrees outside. Is there any reason for that?
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Recently I replaced the unison ring on my turbo, EBP sensor and cleaned carbon out EBP tube/upper part of motor. After doing so she seemed to run fine but not like I remember when I first got her. Plenty of power but ever so slightly off, only an owner would notice. Few weeks later she hesitates a little bit while she's cold in the morning. I let her run 3-5 minutes b4 actually driving but as u know it's a little while to get up to operating temp. Temps seem OK 190-200 EOT/ECT. Fresh oil/filter, air filter, coolant, EGR was cleaned out a little while back and EGR valve replaced 25k ago. I'm not sure where to look at this point...the motor has about 30k on it.
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I just bought a 2007 F350 6.0 two days ago, so I was giving the truck a good wash today using a electric pressure washer. The engine bay was pretty dirty so I decided to take some soap and a brush to it. After cleaning it I let it sit for a while in the sun to dry. (engine was stone cold). After it had completely dried out I go in and it cranked right up. I let it idle for a good minute-minute and a half put it in drive and pulled away slowly, right when I touched the accelerator it started running rough, so I popped it into neutral and let it idle for a sec but it was still running really rough so I cut it off not wanting to damage anything worse.
I let it sit and tried to start it again, it just turned over and over. I checked the oil level it was good. So I pushed it back into my driveway to figure it out. I took ICP connector out and tried to start it, just turned over and over. took fuel filter out it was just replaced 2K miles ago it looked a little dirty but not super bad. I put that back in. took icp out again and tried to start it and it started but ran super rough and was dumping black smoke out.
I checked back all ficm connectors and they were all connected. I haven't checked the voltage on that yet, but plan to do that tomorrow. the previous owner had the ficm go bag about a year ago and he sent it off to ficmrepair.com and they fixed it for him. also he had the stand pipes and dumby plugs done as well as the stc on hpop. im kinda at a loss on where to go now other than to check voltage on ficm.
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