Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2007 F350 - 5th Wheel Causing U1900 ABS CEL?
Apr 17, 2017
I just bought a 2007 F350 CCSB 6.0 auto 4x4 with 113k miles on it, it does have the 5th wheel goose neck trailer hitch in the bed...anyway of course when I looked at the rig everything checked out and now I am getting a U1900 for ABS CAN communication...I should add that the ABS Light itself is not on, just the CEL...I have a feeling it has something to do with the wiring that the PO maybe had done to wire for his 5th wheel hitch?...I checked all the ABS related fuses in both fuse boxes and they're all fine...
While reading another post on the possibility of the brake pedal position switch up on the pedal itself being bad, someone mentioned that the wiring may be jacked up due someone adding wiring in for the 5th wheel hitch...I also checked the brake pressure switch on the nose of the master cylinder and that looked clean although I didn't test it...should I just replace these since they're pretty cheap or is there something I should look for in the wiring underneath the dash? Oh and of course my cruise control isn't working either...likely because of this ABS wiring issue..
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I just got a 5 inch turbo back Magnaflow stainless exhaust system installed on my 2007 F 450. The downpipe rests directly on the firewall and causes a horrible vibration and noise at times. I have been on the phone talking directly with Magnaflow trying to resolve this issue
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Have a 2004 F350 dually diesel 6.0 - will now be replacing the passenger rear wheel seal for the third time in 8 months - replaced 12/2014 again in 6/2015 - took in for extensive engine pairs 7/8 got back 8/27 and have to replace the wheel seal again. Cannot figure out why blowing out so often - what to do to stop it from blowing out? Called the dealer and they were absolutely no support at all - mentioned something about a thicker seal?
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I have a 2011 F-350 that came with the 5th wheel prep package which has rubber, two piece hole covers. Every time I slide something out of the bed across these covers they pop off or come partly off. I don't have a 5th wheel trailer and no plans to get one. Having trouble with the covers and come up with a better cover that would stay on when sliding cargo in and out. I hate just leaving the holes open to collect things. I wonder if some sort of galvanized electrical box cover would work with some sort of mount system under it?
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I have a 2007 F350 6.0 Diesel. Truck starts and runs great for about 10 miles and then loses power and slows down til it dies, it does this without any kind of warning and does not rattle or anything. If i let it sit for about 15 min it will start right up and drive fine for another 10 miles or so and do the same thing.
It did the same thing in December but would not restart at all and the ficm was the cause at that time so i went ahead and replaced the ficm just to eliminate it. I also replaced the fuel pump and the ipr and icp valves are good. The only engine code has to do with the fuel level sensor and that has been on for a year. The egr was recently replaced, the hpop is putting out the psi that it is supposed to and there are not any internal air leaks.
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My 2007 F350 CC DRW KR has developed a serious oil leak recently. The oil runs down both sides of the bell housing but seems to be worse on the passengers side. It only leaks after five or so minutes of running and not while off. I have searched literally hundreds of threads and found only one that seemed similar and the resolution was never posted.
The truck is stock with only a turbo back 4" exhaust. I initially thought of the STC fitting failing and cracking the rear engine cover, but I still have very good ICP (650 almost immediately when cranking and at idle, 3000+ when on the throttle).
I plan to pull the turbo next weekend to check the drain tube and HPOP cover as well as checking/replacing the STC fitting (since I'm in there).
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I have about 70k miles on my truck and I've noticed just recently that my suspension is squeaking or creaking when I start to turn the wheel. What's the solution.... 2011 6.7 F350 super duty....
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Lately it seems that my 6.0 cranks over longer before it starts. it used to turn over quick and start not it turns over at least 5-8 seconds maybe more. .
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Truck is an '07 F350 Supercrew, 8ft bed, SRW, 2wd. I bought the truck last month and noticed a low frequency driveline vibration starting at about 45 mph and is noticeable to about 65 mph. Feels like a bad u-joint. So I pulled the drive shaft (two piece) and checked the joints. They seemed find so I sent it to a commercial truck shop that does driveshaft work. Had the joints replaced and the shaft rebalanced.
Re-installed drive shaft and went for a test drive. No real change in the vibration. The hangar bearing seemed fine so it wasn't changed. Doesn't feel like a wheel out of balance. My experience tells me its a drive shaft.
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i have a 2007 f350 6.0 and it was running fine. I parked it in my driveway for a couple of months and then went down one day to start it. The first day it started but the second day i went down it wouldn't start. it would crank but wouldn't fire up. I changed the oil, repaired the FICM and still got nothing. Then i took a generic scanner and got the code p2285. I replace the ICP but still no start. I have also changed both batteries. I'm not getting any codes right now either. What is going on?It has around 229,000 miles
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2007 350 the truck sat overnight (15 hrs) I went to start the truck and it had to crank for about 3 seconds which is abnormal for my truck?? It was about 80 degrees outside. Is there any reason for that?
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My 2007 F350 6.0l DRW LARIAT battery voltage was too low to restart her while out and about today. I did notice that she seemed kind of when I started her up leaving my town to got over two towns away. So i set my Scan Gauge to check voltage and it was low considering she was running, in the low 12V range with radio and a/c running. So I figured the regulator is on it's way out but I this be able to restart her up. Anyway after a jump she started right up and I was able to get home no issues. After I jump started her the check engine icon was illuminated with DTC P0606. I'm not 100% on why this trouble code was recorded other than the fact that I tried to start her up which caused battery to fall below the 9.6V threshold to power the PCM. The voltage was still low after jumping her, so I figured i better swap in a new alternator but what kind. I hear that the alternator is an issue with this truck, so what should I get?? What alternator is proven to last on these trucks?
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Recently I replaced the unison ring on my turbo, EBP sensor and cleaned carbon out EBP tube/upper part of motor. After doing so she seemed to run fine but not like I remember when I first got her. Plenty of power but ever so slightly off, only an owner would notice. Few weeks later she hesitates a little bit while she's cold in the morning. I let her run 3-5 minutes b4 actually driving but as u know it's a little while to get up to operating temp. Temps seem OK 190-200 EOT/ECT. Fresh oil/filter, air filter, coolant, EGR was cleaned out a little while back and EGR valve replaced 25k ago. I'm not sure where to look at this point...the motor has about 30k on it.
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A few weeks back my rear drivers side wheel started smoking severely...when I stopped you could smell the brake material, feel the heat coming from the wheel, and lots of smoke. I speculated it was the parking brake that got hung up. I jiggled that cable around and then went around the block - no issue. Note: I did not leave the parking brake on.
It happened again a week later, but not as bad. I took it into the dealer today. They said heat was evident as it burned off a sticker on the disk or caliper hsg area. They have not determined yet if it is parking brake or caliper?
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Its going into overdrive to early causing it to shake at around 40mph but when I get to 50mph it go away or under 35mph it not there either what could that be??? Just got torque converter and trans done and checked it wasn't that.
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I just bought a 2007 F350 6.0 two days ago, so I was giving the truck a good wash today using a electric pressure washer. The engine bay was pretty dirty so I decided to take some soap and a brush to it. After cleaning it I let it sit for a while in the sun to dry. (engine was stone cold). After it had completely dried out I go in and it cranked right up. I let it idle for a good minute-minute and a half put it in drive and pulled away slowly, right when I touched the accelerator it started running rough, so I popped it into neutral and let it idle for a sec but it was still running really rough so I cut it off not wanting to damage anything worse.
I let it sit and tried to start it again, it just turned over and over. I checked the oil level it was good. So I pushed it back into my driveway to figure it out. I took ICP connector out and tried to start it, just turned over and over. took fuel filter out it was just replaced 2K miles ago it looked a little dirty but not super bad. I put that back in. took icp out again and tried to start it and it started but ran super rough and was dumping black smoke out.
I checked back all ficm connectors and they were all connected. I haven't checked the voltage on that yet, but plan to do that tomorrow. the previous owner had the ficm go bag about a year ago and he sent it off to ficmrepair.com and they fixed it for him. also he had the stand pipes and dumby plugs done as well as the stc on hpop. im kinda at a loss on where to go now other than to check voltage on ficm.
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2007 F350 6.0L 230,000 miles
Yesterday, while driving home from a weekend out of town trip, all of sudden lost throttle control. Just went to idle while at cruise speeds, could pump pedal and no response. Then got pedal control back and seemed to run normally.
This happened several times. Hubby suggested moving the adjustable pedal which I did slightly. Although I was not using the cruise control, we had a sense that maybe it was engaging??? So I hit the off button a couple of times. After these two interventions, drove the last 80 miles home with no further incidents.
Today, we checked codes and had a PO231, Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Low. I don't think that is our problem with above based on research, but we will look into fixing that too. We are thinking TPS or a position sensor on the accelerator pedal. We could replace those easily ourselves.
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2007 F-350 6.0L, Wife phoned and said that the truck backfired a couple of times and there was black smoke from exhaust. When she stopped at idle there is now alot of white smoke but coolant level looks fine. She has about 200 km's to go before she is home pulling a 20 foot horse trailer with 1 horse.
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2007 F350 CCLB, Still stock, 130k miles. SCT Tuner for towing and MPG (canned tunes).. I am new to the diesel world so just making sure.
Since we started getting colder mornings I have noticed a small amount of white, or blueish white smoke on start up for about 5 secs or so. Last week in Montana I did notice the light smoke for about 5 secs then looked like vapor for about 1 min (was about 30 degrees out)
Only during the first start of the day on cooler mornings (45 and under) have i noticed it, nothing while driving, no knocks or hard start, no codes. I am about due for an oil change (Delo in there right now but switching to syn), and do have the canned tow tune from SCT on there. Anything I should have checked or should check, I am decent with wrench.
Also I have noticed the blue sleeve that goes to the front of turbo coming from the front of the truck (maybe the cooler?), kinda looks like rubber gets a slightly dirty coating to it, not sure if normal or related.
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I have 07 F350 6.0 never heard this out of any of my 6.0s. it's almost a whine but can hear it w turbo and out of empty exhaust. Almost like a supercharger noise stumped almost leaning towards actuator for turbo? Noise got real loud swapped turbos used same actuator noise is there but much quieter.
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My truck is a 2007 F-350 DRW. I'm not sure when,because I don't use it much in Texas, but My Four Wheel Indicator lights on the dash quit working. I don't see them in the dash at startup either. I'm not sure if the four wheel drive is coming on at all. There is probably a way to check that without driving off into a mud bog, right? Anyway I have looked for blown fuses etc, no luck yet. (15amp#33 under dash and 30amp#3 under hood). These are according to my manual.
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