I just bought a used 2007 f250 with the 6.0 power stroke. The truck has approx. 160,000 miles on it. He is having a issue with the truck overheating when it is cold out. When the air temp is above 30 degrees or so, he doesn't have a issue. So,my he overheating only occurs when driving down the highway in low temperatures. It can idle in the cold fine.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2007 F250 4X4 6.0 diesel. When first started it idles extremely rough to a point it sounds like a old gas engine missing. But after it warms up for about 15 minutes it runs and idles like a new truck. I'm thinking it's the injectors if so is this something I can change/clean .... It's 98* on a cool day , when "cold" I mean just started for many hours.
View 13 RepliesI'm new to diesels. I just bought a 2004 F250 with the 6.0 V8. I have the high and low circuit, contribution codes on cylinders 4 and 8. I've only had the truck for a few days but I've been reading a ton. The symptoms are hard start, rough idle/shaking, no power when cold. When it heats up and I'm over 2000 RPM it seems to be just fine. Even when hot and below 2000 RPM it does ok. I've check the FICM. It reads 48V with key on and 48V running. My plan is to do the following:
Change the Fuel Filters
Change the oil filter
Change Air Filter
Change oil with 5-W30 synth and I have both Hot Shot/Rev-X
If that doesn't work, I'll replace the two injectors. How does that sound.
I have a 2006 f250 6.0 203,00 miles. At 196,000 miles turbo went out, bought power max turbo, redid head gaskets with studs, had heads shaved flat, replace oil cooler with ford part, egr delete, custom tune, aftermarekt 48 Volt FICM.
Truck ran great until 1 day didn't start. had to let truck cool down and then it stared oil pressure was only going to 350psi. drove home fine, shut it off and wonted start hot. drove it a few times after that just let truck idle. Then it started to crank longer when cold. Replaced dummy plug and stand pipe on drivers side only. Then truck was ok for a few drives then started to get a studer sometimes when idling. It got worse then was getting a misfire cyl 1 then, truck died 1 day turning around and would only build a 200 psi.
Replaced stand pipe and dummy plug on passenger side, and IPR, now getting misfire on cyl 8 and P2284, truck runs like crap, bad idle, rpms weird/gas pedal. idle is higher than it should be. when truck is first started shacks very bad, engine very nosiey. ICP 1046 psi(1.27Volts)Desired 637.9, idle and ipr 14.84, truck idles ok, when u punch gas revs up and comes back down, misfire gets worse with rpm.
Then icp goes to 870(2.23 Volts)Desired 870 and doesn't change when getting on the gas and ipr 32.42, punch it and rpms go up more then come back down. Truck starts to shake again. Could running it for so long with bad oil pressure or to much air wreak the injectors? When cold can shut off injector 7 or 8 doesn't change idle like all others do. Once warm 7 or 8 does make a small change in idle. If i command ipr to 20% idles fine, but icp no change from 32.42% to 20%...
I have an 05 f250 6.0. We have started to reach 38 at night here in northern IL already. The trucks been having a rough time starting and it's not even that cold yet. Any recommendations on the truck that I can do to have easier starts. Sometimes cycling the glow plugs 4 5 6 7 times isn't enough to get her going. I plug it in most of the time on bitter days in the winter but sometimes I leave it parked where I cannot plug it in. The batteries seem just fine. I think one is a little weaker so I will get new batts.
View 6 RepliesWhen I start the cold engine mine makes a loud whining noise. I took it to the Ford dealer and they said that the sound is normal and that it's the turbo's. I think I'll take it to another ford dealership and get a second opinion, The service guy has the same truck as me and his was making the same noise on cold start up and they told him it was the turbo's also. Something's not right about the noise.
View 14 RepliesOur temps have hit into the -18 to -25 Celsius... I have noticed that on 3 different occasions now that the truck feels like its locked in 4wd when I reverse out of my drive way.My Truck is an F250 Crewcab with 4800 miles
This all started with the cold weather. At first I thought my 2 yr old was turning switches on while he was up front one time, but it happended again the following morning taking my 5yr old to school...
I back up up about 20 feet and then make a fairly sharp 90 degree turn and then all the way down the driveway to the street...its really noticeably on the 90 degree turn..once I turn to go forward it still seems jerky...same as having 4wd engaged on dry surface while turning..
After a little bit of driving it seems to go away...also keep in my mind that the 4wd switch has never been touched at anytime at all...we have a lightly snow packed driveway but my traction is still fine to where 2 wd is all that's needed
Could it be something in the rear diff "catching and releasing" for lack of a better term ?
Locker issues, clutchpacks...?
As I am typing I also remembered making a right hand turn on dry pavement and it felt like the rear end slipped a bit and then caught again, much the same way it would fell as if you hat one tire on a small patch of ice and slipped as ya took off and then caught as it hit the dry pavement...
Truck has been doing this and now getting worse. 06 f250 6.0 147,000 miles. Runs like crap when you first start and truck has trouble shifting when I first take off in the mornings until it warms up then it idles fine and runs like a champ no problem shifting. Not in a cold climate 40F at the least. Not trying to take it to the dealer and get raped. Been doing research some people say get the inductive heat flash, some say needs new injectors, some say could have a bad gasket on the injector idk. I'm trying trying to get it resolved....
View 4 RepliesI'm TSing a no-start on my 2005 6.0L F250. Engine cranks fine. I've been working my way thru the TSing guide and using my new ScanGaugeII. No codes found. At glow plug warmup, (dash light goes off), I'm getting 40.5v FMP, 11.0v FLP, 14.8% ICP, and 0psi IPR. After cranking for 10-15 sec, get 35.5v, 10.0v, 84.7%, and 446psi. I've had a trickle charger on all night to keep the batteries charged. Have not seen FMP over 45 or IPR over 470.
View 14 RepliesI'm having an issue with the truck not staying idle after cold start up. The truck will turn over and start right away (not even 2 second crank) but immediately dies. The throttle will not work at low RPM. When I start the truck, it will instantly rev high, the revs will drop low, it will try to compensate and rev high again, then it will immediately die.
If the RPMs are under under 2.5k, the truck will immediately stall and die. When I attempt to use the throttle under that RPM, it will not work. No matter how much I depress it, the engine will instantly cut and stall out. It will not attempt to deliver fuel. The only way I can get the truck started is if I rev the engine high and hold it. I need to hold the truck at 2.5k+ RPM for atleast 30 seconds. It generally takes me about 5 tries to finally get it running (mainly due to the throttle immediately cutting out and I have to 'catch' and hold it.) After that, there is no sign or issue. The truck will start immediately back up after it's been running for a couple minutes.
CEL: MAP sensor (0069?) -- Sensor is spotless. Harness looks fine. I replaced the injectors, both batteries, and the alternator this summer. It doesn't sound to be any these either as the truck sounds extremely healthy and immediately turns over.
My truck died on the way home the other night. After pulling over it started right up but died three more times on the way home. Changed fuel filters, cps sensor which wasn't bad when tested, checked fuel pressure (60 psi), cleaned egr valve, fcim has 48 volts, batteries have 12 volts. Tried unplugging egr valve and icp sensor. Truck will start with icp unplugged . Ipr, stand pipes and dummy plugs were replaced last year when I purchased truck. Truck will run in park fine no issues idled normal, builds rpms and boost. Put it in drive when it gets warm rough idle and dies but starts right back up evertime. When truck doesn't die it has no power.
View 10 Replies07 6L gave me a fit the other morning. I spent the night in the mountains Saturday night. Sunday morning was -5. With no place to plug in the block heater. When I started it it bucked and hawed and didn't want to run... It keep surging for a while and finally smoothed out after about 3 mins... Is there an additive that will work for this for the times there is no place to plug in? Oil additive or fuel additive?
View 14 RepliesThis is a 2007, 143K F350 Sometimes will sit for a week before I use it. It has a mind of its own. Some days it will start right up and if I put it in gear it stalls. I have to wait for the EOT to come up to normal temps. Yesterday I drove it to the store that's a mile away and when I pulled into a parking spot it just stalled as if I turned it off. Doesn't happen all the time.
I do use a scan gauge on it all the time.
Cold Start
Key on Engine off
IPR-14.81
ICP- 0
FICM 48
Start up
IPR-31.21
ICP-917
FICM 48
MAP- 14.6
ECT 90
EOT 82
As its getting warm
ECT 126
EOT 111
IPR 27.3
ICP 712
put into R and Drive
ICP- 711
IPR 25.3
In Neutral
Brought RPMS up to 2000
IPR 32
ICP 1000
FCIM 48
RPMS at 3000
IPR 49
ICP 1800
FCIM 48
Back to Park and ideling
ECT 164
EOT 155
IPR 23.8
FCIM 48
MAP 15
ICP 585
I'm trying to elimate ICP and IPR, Do these numbers look correct?
I'm new to owning a diesel. I have a. 2004 f250 6.0. I gotta smog the truck this weekend but the check engine light is on. Fault is P0674. I've notice during the day it starts up fine but at nights, lately it's been low 40 outside it won't start. Where to start at.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2007 F250 with the 6.0. Towing up a long hill my truck went into limp mode. I didn't have gauges at the time so I didn't know what my temps were. I now have gauges. I know that the coolant and Oil temps should not be more than 10-15* apart, but what is the max temp that oil should EVER get towing up a steep and long hill? Also, what is the max temp that coolant should EVER get towing up a steep and long hill?
View 14 RepliesRecently I replaced the unison ring on my turbo, EBP sensor and cleaned carbon out EBP tube/upper part of motor. After doing so she seemed to run fine but not like I remember when I first got her. Plenty of power but ever so slightly off, only an owner would notice. Few weeks later she hesitates a little bit while she's cold in the morning. I let her run 3-5 minutes b4 actually driving but as u know it's a little while to get up to operating temp. Temps seem OK 190-200 EOT/ECT. Fresh oil/filter, air filter, coolant, EGR was cleaned out a little while back and EGR valve replaced 25k ago. I'm not sure where to look at this point...the motor has about 30k on it.
View 3 RepliesThe lights are on on the switches themselves, I used the red pass through wire under the hood and then connected it to the Orange w/ blue tracer upfitter wire( I think #4 switch) and it has no power. Changed the fuse and still nothing??
View 13 RepliesI have a 2007 f250 6.0 powerstroke that had an intermittent crank no start problem so I replaced the sti valve on the hpop. Put it back together no start ran a few tests found the FICM had 22 volts replaced that still no start replaced IPR valve because I got a 0 ohm reading from it still no start. I am just about out of patience with it I am going to add some pics of the scanner I am using. I dont know the difference between ICP DSD and ICP PRESS.
View 9 RepliesI bought new pads for my truck and the fronts went on with no problem at all, but when I got to the rear the tabs/ears on the pads are about 1/8 inch wider than the notch they are supposed to fit in. I bought part number BR-1067, which is supposed to fit but obviously doesn't. What part number should I have bought? My truck is a 2007 F250 Super Crew Lariat FX4.
View 9 RepliesI have s 2007 f250 superduty with a 6.0. Recently after the engine gets warm I have a problem restarting it. I have to turn the key to the run position until all sounds have stopped then I have to pump the accelerator to get it to start. Sometimes I have to repeat this three or four times before it starts. I have had the fuel pump rebuild and installed two new batteries. What I should be looking at.
View 14 Replies2007 f250 6.0 .... I just had the wrench light come on while driving on the hwy. wasn't towing, or hauling anything. Just traveling around 70mph for an hour or so. I didn't notice any change in power. Got to my destination and cut the engine off. Couldn't pull any codes with an OBD II scanner. When I started it up again, light was gone. Owner's manual points to electronic throttle control, not much else.
View 14 Replies