Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2007 - EGR Deletion - Adding Programmer?
Jul 31, 2016
We just picked up a 2007 f350 dully with 71,000 miles on it. Have done some research but still would love some input. We would like to do the egr delete and add a monitor/programmer to monitor things. We will be using this as a daily driver and to haul our dj equipment trailer (nothing big) have looked at several programmers and also talked with several local diesel owners currently leaning toward the Edge Cts2.
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I was looking into deleting the EGR ony '03 F250 and want to learn more about it. I was looking at the different kits and wanted to get the peoples opinion on what they went with, and how big a job it was to install, did you also do the oil cooler while your in there?
I was wondering if I could just weld the ends of the cooler off, stopping exhaust gasses, essentially deleting it, but valve and coolant still flows through. Amy downside to this?
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I have 2011 f150 5.0 and looking to put a programmer on it to increase fuel mileage and fix speedometer for my bigger tires .
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Is it possible to add the decent control if my truck didn't come with it? Is the harness already wired for it and the computer programmed for it or would I have to get it reprogrammed and get a new harness?
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As it turns out my entire dash needs to come out to repair the HVAC so thinking while it's out I should add the diesel supplemental heater. What's involved with this? I need to replace the entire HVAC plenum so imagine the version with the supplemental heater can be bought instead. I know it's an 1800W electrical heater so my main question is the wiring harness on a regular truck setup for it or do I need to change the harness. And then I suspect the HVAC control module would need to be reprogrammed as well.
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I came across a post where someone said it was possible to add a gauge/setting to the blank "gauge display" screen. I've searched and searched but can't find the post. Ho to add to the gauge display blank screen.
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Is there a MPG gain with synthetic oil or adding a tonneau cover?
I'm planning on doing the tonneau but curious if any noticeable differences with either.
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I first saw them on the 2013 build and price and was thinking that I should look into adding them to my 12. I never got around to looking up part numbers. So, recently I thought of it again and after a little poking found that they could be had as a Ford accessory kit for around $110 depending on your dealer. MSRP is 133 I think. So, I hit the dealer and grabbed a set they had in stock. Install took 30 minutes. Very easy. They give the wheel wells a finished look and offer lots more protection than the small plastic strips on the rear that came with the truck. A hundred or so bucks well spent if you don't have them. There are aftermarket ones that are a touch cheaper on eBay by Rugged Liner but they don't work with the 5th wheel prep which I have.
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I have a 2013 F-350 with the 6.7L. I pull a 36' 5th wheel with a Swivel Wheel motorcycle on the back. So I'm pretty heavy. Plenty of pulling power, but going down hill, the automatic braking doesn't work anywhere near as well as the exhaust brake I had on my '96 F-250 with the 7.2L. Considering installing the BD Dual Vane Exhaust Brake. Looking for feedback about installing the BD DVEB. How well does it work?
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2007 6.0 6 speed, 187,000 miles. The other day started truck, had been running about 20 minutes before. Started fine, go to drive, chugging white smoke, smelled like unburnt diesel, baby truck home, seemed to run ok at low rpm, truck warmed up and ran fine. But I also noticed turbo boost was acting funny. Truck ran fine next few days. Then this morning, started cold fine, started to drive it and same chugging white smoke, it quit by the time j got to the end of my driveway, but drove to work, it quit smoking, ran pretty smooth, but will not build any boost. Truck is bone stock except for exhaust, it's straight piped. Ok. So this eve I borrowed my dads edge cts, here's all the engine codes:
P0069
P0269
P0299
P2262
P2269
The last one is water in fuel, since it started this crap I did notice it was right after it came on in the dash. I'm trying to figure out where to start....
On another note. VGT duty shows 85% at idle ?
Ficm voltage is constant 48 volts
Newer batteries
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Was thinking of running a USB to each of the back doors (through the flip out ashtray) in my crewcab. Was looking at using something like this.
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My truck died on the way home the other night. After pulling over it started right up but died three more times on the way home. Changed fuel filters, cps sensor which wasn't bad when tested, checked fuel pressure (60 psi), cleaned egr valve, fcim has 48 volts, batteries have 12 volts. Tried unplugging egr valve and icp sensor. Truck will start with icp unplugged . Ipr, stand pipes and dummy plugs were replaced last year when I purchased truck. Truck will run in park fine no issues idled normal, builds rpms and boost. Put it in drive when it gets warm rough idle and dies but starts right back up evertime. When truck doesn't die it has no power.
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I have an 07 6.0 diesel and I'm having trouble once it gets hot. It begins to lose throttle response and shakes while cruising and also has a rough idle. sometimes it dies while idling but after cooling off for a few minutes starts back up and runs fine. I've checked the high pressure oil and the ficm and both of those are fine. I've done an EGR delete so it has nothing to do with that either. My MPG also goes way down when this happens.
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I have 2007 6.0, rough idle starts, rough and no power till engine reaches running temperature, runs great after that. If the engine is off for half hour, and restarted, runs rough again till engine temp is back again.
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I have an 07 6.0 with 400,000 miles. Has been a great truck with no major problems. Before I started the work I had 3 bad injectors, running rough and the oil/ coolant temp just outside of 15 degrees. So I tour her down and replaced head gaskets, installed arp studs,all new injectors,all new glow plugs and new oil cooler. Ran great for a couple days. Then when driving to work lost power on and off for a few miles then completely gone could only go 10 miles an hour. I checked codes and there was the under boost code witch has been on there for a while and I forget the other code but it was for the ipr valve so I replaced the valve and right after still the same but that code went away and the p0470 popped up. So I cleaned out the ep sensor tube and replaced the valve. After several miles she now runs great but now I'm getting a little puff of white smoke when I take off and not every time and mainly when I take off some what quick. All codes are gone expect the under boost. I have an egr delete already.
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I have a 2007 F350 6.0 Diesel. Truck starts and runs great for about 10 miles and then loses power and slows down til it dies, it does this without any kind of warning and does not rattle or anything. If i let it sit for about 15 min it will start right up and drive fine for another 10 miles or so and do the same thing.
It did the same thing in December but would not restart at all and the ficm was the cause at that time so i went ahead and replaced the ficm just to eliminate it. I also replaced the fuel pump and the ipr and icp valves are good. The only engine code has to do with the fuel level sensor and that has been on for a year. The egr was recently replaced, the hpop is putting out the psi that it is supposed to and there are not any internal air leaks.
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jump in my warm truck head out anywhere and go inside after shuting the truck off. come back 15 min later and ya she wont start. crank all day long don't make any difference. wait till the oil temp comes down to 60 deg celcius and boom she starts like nothing is wrong. from everything I have read and that's a lot since this has been going on for 2-3 weeks, seems possible to start with the stc fitting. seems to have only become an issue since I did an engine oil flush and oil change. the truck was new to me in early august. truck has 310000 km. the oil change was done mid oct. my issue started once the temps started dropping to -0 deg cel over night. I don't cold start now that its -10 or colder always plugged in for 3-4 hours before heading to work.
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So I've been chasing a problem in my 07 6.0 for about 6 months now I had just changed the oil cooler and a week later was driving home and she quit a mile from my house I have since then changed the cmp sensor the alternator 3 injectors all the o-rings in the nipples of my oil rail both down tubes in the oil rail and the IPR valve most resently and last night I hooked it up to me auto engenuity scanner and the IPR valve is still not closing it stay at 14.84% the whole time I'm cranking. The only code I'm running is cmp sensor low a cuircut or something like that I can't remember the number.
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]I have a 2007 F350 6.0, 75,000 miles
Have been having P0683 for many weeks with no starting issues. I replaced the GPCM and cleared the code. Now I have P0670. Still no issues with starting or running. Where to start troubleshooting? Batteries are good, wiring looks good (visually). Had to replace glow plug on #6 a couple of years ago, but I don't remember how I determined it was that cylinder.
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I've had a 2007 Coachman Freelander class C RV with E-450 for about 8 months now. We have been on 7 camping trips to the same location this summer, and the engine has sputtered in exactly the same place on 6 of these trips. It's pretty freaky, like the road has bad mojo there.
We have to come down a steep incline for about 2 miles, dropping about 500' vertical at about 6500' elevation. Then we drive for 2 miles on the flat before hitting a big mountain climb up to 7500'. About 30 seconds into the climb, the engine will sputter, and kick out smoke from the tailpipe. The first time I pulled over, and it idled fine. I took off and climbed the hill just fine. Now I just drive through the sputter, and it goes away after a minute.
So what's happening? Is the fuel tank sloshing crud around? I never get a water-in-fuel alarm, although the E450 doesn't have much of a message center. It doesn't happen on other sections of mountain road. This rig has about 38,000 miles, and is bone stock. I put new oil and fuel filters in before the summer. This rig is the same size as my old '82 RV E350 w/ 460, and boy is the 6.0L an improvement!
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2007 6.0 my dash lights will flicker when the key is turned on and the truck wil crank but won't start, but when the lights stop flickering truck starts .. How to fix the flickering dash light?
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