Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2007 - At Start Up Squeaking Pulley / Belt?
Apr 17, 2015
07 f250 I just replaced the power steering pump. I put the serpentine belt back on and when I started my truck I now have a squeaking noise. It's driving me nuts and the more I push the pedal it gets alil louder. Now before I did the ps pump I did hear a little noise like of bearings squeaking when I put my ear to grill.... I put the old ps pump pulley on the new pump but I don't think that is it because it is pressed on. Would it be a bad idler/tension pully? Is it just a coincidence after I do ps pump that it now decides to squeak?
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I purchased a new 2000 mazda b4000 2 weeks ago and the belt was squeaking and I knew I had to change the water pump so I replaced it and the squeaking didn't went away... I thought maybe my idler pulley bearing was worn out cause I could see it wobble back and fourth when the engine was running... Replaced it, still squeaking! Change my belt still squeaking! look further turns out my power steering pulley wobbles slightly. I'm thinking about trying a gator back belt and see if the squeaking goes away. Could it be dangerous to run the truck as it with a slight misalignment in the power steering pulley? or it'll be a must replacement asap?
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It has developed a weird squeaky belt or pulley sound. It starts after few seconds of start up and goes away after driving few kms. It also goes away immediately for few kms. When I spray WD-40 on generator/alternator. Once in a while the sound decreases by itself and goes away only when I press the gas pedal and comes back during idling/braking. The belt is almost like a new. The car drives great without any issue.
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I have 1997 F250 LD since i bough it has been doing this chirping sound coming from the serpentine belt and the pulley area but when the truck has been working for 15 - 20 min it goes away
This is apart from the from the problem before I think the fan clutch is broken because when I start the truck I can hear the fan going at the same speed of the engine is that normal ? even when the truck is cold
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So I am on my 3rd water pump in 75k miles.
What I am assuming what was the original OEM pump died when the water pump pulley split in 2 and wrapped the belt around the pump at 187k.
The guy I use when I don't want to work on the beast put an O'rielly's lifetime new pump on it. That lasted almost 2 years and 40k miles.
I put another O'rielly's pump on it in the fall of 16' when it started leaking on cold mornings.
9k miles latter the last pump decided to start squeaking and leaking on cold mornings again!!
So I am now putting on a factory pump that should be made of gold for the price I paid for it from the local dealer. It was almost 2x's the cost of a new aftermarket pump.
My question to the collective is...is my experience with aftermarket pumps the norm?
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I have about 70k miles on my truck and I've noticed just recently that my suspension is squeaking or creaking when I start to turn the wheel. What's the solution.... 2011 6.7 F350 super duty....
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I need to replace the bearing on my Idler pulleys, both smooth and grooved. I also want to replace the bearing on the tensioner pulley. What are the part numbers and the best place to order them from?
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Need to know the thread pitch and diameter for the water pump pulley bolts? The previous owner of the engine I bought clearly didn't know how to get the fan off as the pulley and plastic fan are both loose so I cannot loosen large nut.
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I am reviewing the ford assembly instructions before I put my engine back together and noted that it indicates that the balancer bolts are torque to yield. I thought it odd but is it really necessary to replace these? Is it done in practice?
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Looking for how to's out there on how to get all of the fan shrouding removed? I am trying to do my idler and tensioner pulley bearings and those shrouds really make it tough.
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jump in my warm truck head out anywhere and go inside after shuting the truck off. come back 15 min later and ya she wont start. crank all day long don't make any difference. wait till the oil temp comes down to 60 deg celcius and boom she starts like nothing is wrong. from everything I have read and that's a lot since this has been going on for 2-3 weeks, seems possible to start with the stc fitting. seems to have only become an issue since I did an engine oil flush and oil change. the truck was new to me in early august. truck has 310000 km. the oil change was done mid oct. my issue started once the temps started dropping to -0 deg cel over night. I don't cold start now that its -10 or colder always plugged in for 3-4 hours before heading to work.
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2007 6.0 my dash lights will flicker when the key is turned on and the truck wil crank but won't start, but when the lights stop flickering truck starts .. How to fix the flickering dash light?
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07 6L gave me a fit the other morning. I spent the night in the mountains Saturday night. Sunday morning was -5. With no place to plug in the block heater. When I started it it bucked and hawed and didn't want to run... It keep surging for a while and finally smoothed out after about 3 mins... Is there an additive that will work for this for the times there is no place to plug in? Oil additive or fuel additive?
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I have a 2007 f250 6.0 powerstroke that had an intermittent crank no start problem so I replaced the sti valve on the hpop. Put it back together no start ran a few tests found the FICM had 22 volts replaced that still no start replaced IPR valve because I got a 0 ohm reading from it still no start. I am just about out of patience with it I am going to add some pics of the scanner I am using. I dont know the difference between ICP DSD and ICP PRESS.
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i have a 2007 f350 6.0 and it was running fine. I parked it in my driveway for a couple of months and then went down one day to start it. The first day it started but the second day i went down it wouldn't start. it would crank but wouldn't fire up. I changed the oil, repaired the FICM and still got nothing. Then i took a generic scanner and got the code p2285. I replace the ICP but still no start. I have also changed both batteries. I'm not getting any codes right now either. What is going on?It has around 229,000 miles
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I have a 07 6.0 that won't start it died a few weeks ago while driving. Being a mechanic I've done numerous things to the truck in order to fix all the common 6.0 problems but can't figure this one out. It will crank and get oil pressure and fuel pressure but seems to not be getting fuel. The IPR valve isn't clogged I tried with 2 working valves nothing worked. Along with changing the ficm. The connections to the ficm are clean and all in tact. I have an edge evolution chip that isn't even showing any codes. Not sure what to try next since I don't have any codes to go off of.
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I am working on my partner's 2007 F250, it was running great, and we did an aftermarket EGR cooler, and a new oil cooler, and of course the screen was torn in the old one, tore it all down, cleaned everything, put it all back together.......with the new parts, and no start, we cranked and cranked and cranked on it, for about 20 to 30 seconds at a time, giving it 3 to 5 minutes cool off time for the starter between cranking, about 30 times over a two day period, and no start. Finally, I decided to give it a little starting fluid, and it finally kicked off, it would run at a higher RPM, and if you so much as let off the throttle a fraction of an inch it would die, and not start again without starting fluid. I got it running again with the fluid, it was at 2000 RPM, and my mechanic reached over and turned on the A/C (we are in Florida) and it died. I have no way to check the HPOP pressure, but the truck was running great before we did this, and I checked it for codes, there are none! It will not start without the starting fluid. The longest we had it running was about three minutes, then his foot slipped back just a hair on the throttle, and it died. The truck only has 117K miles on it.
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Recently I replaced the unison ring on my turbo, EBP sensor and cleaned carbon out EBP tube/upper part of motor. After doing so she seemed to run fine but not like I remember when I first got her. Plenty of power but ever so slightly off, only an owner would notice. Few weeks later she hesitates a little bit while she's cold in the morning. I let her run 3-5 minutes b4 actually driving but as u know it's a little while to get up to operating temp. Temps seem OK 190-200 EOT/ECT. Fresh oil/filter, air filter, coolant, EGR was cleaned out a little while back and EGR valve replaced 25k ago. I'm not sure where to look at this point...the motor has about 30k on it.
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I just bought a 2007 6.0 with 239k miles on the truck, it has EGR delete and ARP head studs. When i bought it the owner warned me of injector stiction...
I drove the truck for about a week, changed the oil over to Rotella T6 with archoil, and swapped out the air filter so far. (previously was non synthetic rotella). I drove the truck 2 more times since changing those two items and then i had a no start issue.
Scanguage2 said it was FICM sync.....so i messed with the wire loom, and got it to start twice but it died right away. (it had ficm sync, then it died and went back to 0) So i ordered a CPS pigtail and was going to change it out today.
Today i went out and pushed on the CPS sensor directly, charged both batteries and the truck started rough but kept running after two times (still haven't changed the pig tail)
Now it starts but is still running rough.
Scangauge 2 Running:
IPR : 23.8
ICP : 581
FICM SYC : 1
FMP : 48.5
The only code i'm getting is P0269 which I'm hoping is only injector 3, a bad injector wouldn't cause all this would it?
I'm just trying to figure out what i should look at next.
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2006 6.0l ... I've read all over for tips on routing this belt and everyone plays it off as being some simple '20-minute' task. I'm on my 4th hour on this now.
I can't figure out how to route the belt around the tensioner pulley, circled in the picture (from another thread). Everyone glosses over how to do this and I can't figure it out.
It seems like the only way to get it on is to bend the belt and slide it between the pulley and the block, but that I just can't reach the blasted thing.
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2007 6.0l cranks but no start. Read all the forums and I think I performed all the checks. Getting a ficm/ cam sensor/crank sensor no sync. I'm also getting 84.70% at the ipr while cranking. Do I have multiple problems? Watched videos on either the ficm or ipr percentage but not one that had both problems. Getting injector clatter and fuel pump runs. Didn't see anything obvious with the harness.
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