Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2006 F250 - Tachometer Not Working Properly
Mar 5, 2017
I have an 06 f250 6.0. When I bought it a few weeks ago I turn the key on and let the glow plugs warm up and start the truck it would start easily. Now it seems like it's taking longer to start . The temperature are between 50 and 80 degrees. I changed the fuel filters and it's still taking to long to start.
2nd I noticed today that when my truck is at idle the Tachometer is at 0 and when I'm driving 60-70 MPh it goes up to 900 or maybe 1200. It seems to be running fine no loss of power that I can tell. What could be causing the long crank time and my Tachometer problems.
the glow plugs and injectors are new I don't remember the brand and the fuel filters are brand new Motorcraft.
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Cold start the injectors definitely are not "clicking" the way they should be. Bought a scan gauge II and checked the FICM voltage and it never drops below 48V. EOT/ECT never really get past 8/9* ....
Issue is when I first start driving you can feel a definite miss, but as soon as the truck warms up it runs excellent, no issues starting hot. I did put 15w40 in it but upon some research I drained it and put in 5w40 syn and it definitely solved some of the issue but it's still there.
One other note the battery's are a little weak in the truck so tomorrow I will have new ones-putting this in as a side note in case it may cause an issue
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I recently bought a 2005 F250 4x4 automatic trans with 177,000 miles. In the last 300 or so miles it has developed a whine from under the truck like gears not meshing. It is constant and only the speed of the truck seems to affect the volume of it. It is loudest, considerable louder, on deceleration. Different gears have no effect, 4x4 high or low has no effect, even slipping it into neutral while its rolling has no effect. I have seen various websites about bad wheel bearings, transfer cases, and rear end gears causing this type of noise. There is no vibrations, slipping, shuttering, at anything else unusual. Except for noise it drives ad rides completely normal.
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I have a 2005 6.0 f350 lariat... My climate control doesn't switch very well I can get it to go to floor sometimes after 15min of pressing the button. The vacuum pump is good the tank has no cracks. I feel that the system is either plugged up or has a leak. I cleaned the tank after my hub seals went and it sucked a ton of dust and dirt through my wheel bearings in to the tank. Is the vacuum switching part of the digital display? Or is there a separate part?
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I've mentioned in earlier posts that my speedometer has been swinging around wildly off and on, and that on two occasions this has been coupled with a momentary engine stumble. This morning on the way to work it was doing it again but this time the engine stumble happened several times as well. I plan to check the speed sensor, but I wonder how this is also causing the engine stumble?
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2005 6.0L... Driving to work today, doing about 70mph looked down at the gauges and the tach was reading just above 1k the whole time. Even when I accelerated hard.
Got off the highway and came to a stop light and the tach went below zero (almost rested on top of the boost gauge) light turns green goes up to about 1k but no higher even though I stepped into it a bit.
Got to work and turned the truck off and then turned it back on and the tack started working again.
No mods to the truck other then a stereo system attached to the factory stereo wiring harness. I called the stealership and of course they want the truck to look at. I am curious if it is going to work or not on the way home.
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My mechanic put a used 2005 PMC in my 2004 powerstroke. Now tachometer does not work, trans and coolant temp guages don't work and drives as if it is stuck in 3rd. gear. Does it need flashed @ a ford dealer to sync the two together?
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The lights are on on the switches themselves, I used the red pass through wire under the hood and then connected it to the Orange w/ blue tracer upfitter wire( I think #4 switch) and it has no power. Changed the fuse and still nothing??
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I have a 2003 f250 6.0. Recently, I have noticed that my air conditioner will work at first but once the compressor cycles off it does not come back on. I end up having to turn the a/c controls to off and wait about 5 min then turn them back on and it will work for a about 5 min then blow warm air again.
This happens more when towing rather than just driving around. I have changed out the sensor on the canister but it was no dice. The system is charged to the correct level according to my gauge. This occurs more often on hotter days than any.
While the truck has been running and the system is malfunctioning, I have crawled under the truck and noticed the center wheel of the compressor is not turning but can be turned by hand. Do I need a new compressor or am I missing something else that would be simpler?
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Ok just bought a '04 F250 Diesel. Loving everything but can't get the keyless code to work. The keypad lights when I touch it and I have retrieved the 5 digit code from the "Bosch" box behind the radio. No deal. Locks don't react at all to the factoy code. Know what? I read that there is a list of all the possible codes. Where can I get that list?
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6.7L ... Just traded in my F250 on a 2011 F350 Lariat. Love it. Period. Except that my windshield wiper sprayers will not work. I don't hear anything when I hit the button. No click or motor running. I can't figure out what fuse it is because I don't have an owners manual.
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I've done it before but now when I try to enter into the diagnostic mode I'm not getting anything but the typical message center. I'm holding the down arrow button, inserting the key, and then starting the truck. No diagnostic mode. Am I doing something wrong? 2011 F250.
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So, went to drive the truck (2004 F250 6.0, 145000 mi) yesterday and the right half of my instrument cluster was not working (tach, trans temp and water temp), CEL and check gauges lights on. My scan gauges gives me readouts of all 3, so I know the computer knows the right values. Pulled all three fuses related to the cluster, all looked good. All gauges, including those not working, did full sweeps with key on after putting fuses back, so I know they function. Also, the glow plug light stays on way longer than normal.
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My right side of my instrument cluster is not working. the Tachometer, Engine Temp and Trans Temp gauge are non responsive, and the CEL and Check gauge light is on. I have seen other posts with people that had the same problem but no solution to what fixed the problem. 2004 F250 Lariat.
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My 2006 F250 was towing my 5th wheel when it started to loose power and eventually died. Would not restart. Replaced all fuel filters to no avail. Towed to mechanic shop. Has a little over 100,000 miles on it. Waiting for mechanic to check it out.
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I have an 06 F-250 with 122,000 miles. When driving empty at 70-75 mph the coolant temp runs 194-200 and the oil temp 5 to 10 degrees higher at the most. When I pull my travel trailer the coolant temperature will start to steadily climb then abruptly drop down under 200. I have seen the coolant temperature pass the oil temperature when this happens.
The last time I pulled the trailer I was driving at 60 mph and the coolant temperature climbed to 220 then dropped to 196. A few miles later it climbed to 230 then dropped to 200. While the temperature was climbing I slowed to about 45 mph. As it was dropping I accelerated and the temperature continued to drop.
I have flushed the cooling system, replaced the thermostat and cap with no improvement.
The pickup has an SCT tuner set to street 1 and I was told by the previous owner that the egr was deleted, but the stock egr cooler is in place. It is possible that a plug was put in. I pulled the egr valve and the carbon coating on it is gooey like it has been wet.
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My 2006 F-250 6.0PSD has a new hitch. Tonight it would not start once hot. It cranked and cranked but no start. My scanner showed ICP readings of 366PSI during cranking. Far below the 500PSI needed before the computer will fire the injectors.
So is this the STC fitting at the HPOP that is failing? If so how long will she start cold and drive normal before she leaves me stranded? I have the fittings and new dummy plugs and stand pipes as well. I was waiting to to do this work until I had the money for an new EGR cooler and oil cooler.
I know my oil cooler is failing as my deltas are showing a 15-19 degree spread over my coolant temps.
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I have a 2006 f250 6.0. the truck has 101k miles and to this point I have had zero issues. I am having trouble loosing power after running at highway speeds. Once I stop and begin to accelerate the truck looses power for a few seconds ,Belches smoke and begins to operate normally. I had an egr code, so I replaced egr and the problem persist. It is intermittent and does not happen if I stay under 50 mph.
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So today on my way home from work. I got off at my exit and when I went to step on the gas I lost power and the truck wouldn't exceed 15 mph. It would just rev up and down. It was pouring white smoke from the tailpipe. At one point it went back to normal and started running fine for about 10 seconds. Then it went back to doing the same thing losing power and spitting smoke. I limped the truck into a parking lot and called a ride. I'm having a tow truck pick it up on Monday and take it to the dealership. Is this a head gasket issue? And I feel like it's going to be expensive. 2006 F250 6.0L .....
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I have a 2006 f250 superduty 6.0. The truck ran fine a week ago and than died as I was going to take it for a drive. I figured out that the fuel pump (air dog system) was not working. I fixed that and primed the pump. The truck still won't start. When it first happened the truck would crank but not start. Now all I hear is the starter but no cranking. Both filters could be replaced. The bowl to the upper is dry when I take the cap off. However fills up when you turn the key on. I'm not sure what else to try and I need to get this truck started.
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I have a 2006 f250 bulletproofed for about 5 years now with no problems other than normal wear and tear. I had the factory water pump go out a couple months ago so I decided to go with the bulletproof diesel pump for piece of mind now I do tow anywhere from 8K-15K about once a week with custom Gearhead tunes using SCT.
While I was changing water pump, I ordered low temp thermostat figured it would work with towing temps even though they weren't that bad to begin with my deltas always around 10-128.. Now i am seeing signs of puking out degas bottle, I replaced cap seems to work a little the truck doesn't puke unloaded unless i really get down on it.
I noticed the other day while towing I was cruising with TC locked in at around 55 mph and i watched my EOT 210* and ECT 205*, the n ECT started climbing up followed by EOT then at ECT 222* fan came on ECT finally hit 234* and started dropping fast while EOT never got over 226*. ECT would level out at 188* go back up to 205* and stay there for awhile and do it all over again...
What is going on. I've talked to a could mechanics and they aren't confident its the HG..
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