Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2006 - Won't Start When Hot - Oil Pressure?
Jun 10, 2016
Background: My 06 started up and ran fine until #7 injector took a crap.I had the injectors replaced with 155/stocks from warren.
Well no we're having an issue with a hot no start. Starts and runs just fine cold but once up to temp and you shut her down you can't start it again till it cools. Air tested it 3 different times can't find any leaks. Swapped out the ipr with a new one my mechanic had just to see and no change, unplugged it and no change.
What it could be. When warm and trying to start it only gets 300psi. The only other thing i can think of is hpop, but to go just like that without any trouble before hand has me puzzled.
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Have 2006 Ford Power stroke with 6.0 in it.. Just started doing this ... When Im driving the oil pressure gauge is fine and motor sound fine, but sometime when I come to a stop sign the oil gauge will drop all the way down to zero, the motor still runs fine and has plenty of oil in it. After I press on the fuel pedal to raise the RPMS just a couple the gauge goes back up. the odometer will all so blank out and it will flash "read gauges" when this occurs,, its driving me crazy and not sure where to start..
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I have a 2004 late model 6.0. My son was driving it and parked it in the road told him move it and it wouldn't start. I got it to start and it ran for about 10 seconds. I pushed it in the drive way and left it over night. In the morning there was oil on the driveway. I found that there was the wrong oil filter put in and there is no oil pressure at start up and no oil entering the filter housing. Where to start would be great. I am going to get a Scangauge II to get more information. Could be the ICP?
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I have a 2003 F-250. For 8 months now we have been trying to get my truck to start. We have replaced the High pressure oil pump, Oil cooler, PCM, Main wiring harness, FICM, Injectors,, ICP, and IPR. Still we are not getting enough pressure to start the truck. What is happening is the pressure will get to about 340 and will not increase from there. If we are to disconnect of one the connectors from the FICM the pressure will reach 640. Now we are able to get the truck started with ether, but will not remain started. As of right now we are still trying to figure out what is causing this problem?
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05 excursion with 04 motor. 290k miles. Had a crank no start issue. Pressure tested hpop only got 450 pressure. So got a brand new on from ford. Also did standpipe, and dummy plugs. After forever and day of cranking truck fired up. Sounded great let it sit for 30 min. Took it out for ride, mile down the road lost all power. Alternator was bad, replaced that and battered just to be safe. Now truck won't fire and have zero pressure. Something that could of been tripped during power surge?
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I am new to the FTE world but not to diesels my 2012 f350 is my second diesel and a couple weeks ago I got home from work and fell asleep and forgot to plug in my pickup and it gelled up (was about 15degrees when I fell asleep and -20 when I woke up) so all the filters were replaced and everything was good after that for about a week, then my fass platinum pump started blowing the 30a fuse every 10 seconds and The pump itself smelled burnt so I replaced it with the same style and size of pump and the pump is good now but the truck is a no start it has thrown codes p2291, p0089, p0091, and p228e. It has 4inch straight exhaust, fully deleted (def and egr), h&s tuned, fass platinum 125 lift pump.
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2005 F250 To date this has been done, some at different times. ARP studs, OEM head gaskets, heads machined, oil cooler replaced, new fuel injectors, reman'd HPOP w/IPR with STC fitting, EGR delete, 4" turbo back and SCT x3 tow tune.
We originally had a leaking injector that gave us issues (Thread is here) but we pulled the cab and went through the motor, installed studs etcetera.
After the rebuild we ran it approximately 1K miles and it ran great, then one day towing a '65 C10 on a 20' flatbed it shut off while cruising down the road, crank no start on the side of the road, scanguage showed ICP was too low to fire the injectors so we towed it back to the shop and replaced the HPOP, still low ICP.
What's the next step of diagnosis? I'll have ICP numbers by Monday, it's been several months since all this happened and I'm currently out of state trying to diagnose. If i remember correctly the ICP numbers were low teens or 20's. I don't know for sure but I don't think we replace the standpipe or dummy plugs when we had it apart, could that be the issue?
My thoughts are either we have a leak in the high-pressure side or low pressure isn't supplying enough oil to build pressure, so in theory, we would want to check low pressure first, correct?
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I have a 2006 f250 6.0 203,00 miles. At 196,000 miles turbo went out, bought power max turbo, redid head gaskets with studs, had heads shaved flat, replace oil cooler with ford part, egr delete, custom tune, aftermarekt 48 Volt FICM.
Truck ran great until 1 day didn't start. had to let truck cool down and then it stared oil pressure was only going to 350psi. drove home fine, shut it off and wonted start hot. drove it a few times after that just let truck idle. Then it started to crank longer when cold. Replaced dummy plug and stand pipe on drivers side only. Then truck was ok for a few drives then started to get a studer sometimes when idling. It got worse then was getting a misfire cyl 1 then, truck died 1 day turning around and would only build a 200 psi.
Replaced stand pipe and dummy plug on passenger side, and IPR, now getting misfire on cyl 8 and P2284, truck runs like crap, bad idle, rpms weird/gas pedal. idle is higher than it should be. when truck is first started shacks very bad, engine very nosiey. ICP 1046 psi(1.27Volts)Desired 637.9, idle and ipr 14.84, truck idles ok, when u punch gas revs up and comes back down, misfire gets worse with rpm.
Then icp goes to 870(2.23 Volts)Desired 870 and doesn't change when getting on the gas and ipr 32.42, punch it and rpms go up more then come back down. Truck starts to shake again. Could running it for so long with bad oil pressure or to much air wreak the injectors? When cold can shut off injector 7 or 8 doesn't change idle like all others do. Once warm 7 or 8 does make a small change in idle. If i command ipr to 20% idles fine, but icp no change from 32.42% to 20%...
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OK so 2006 f550 6.0
If I want to monitor fuel pressure with a gauge in cab while running all the time... (not just testing) can I purchase one of the secondary fuel filter caps that have a port in the top and connect the sensor to this to run or is there a better way? (Or is that not going to work)
Cap I am talking about is something like this
[URL]
(I know this is a combo kit but they do sell the fuel only) But since it has a threaded port in the top I could connect the fuel pressure sensor to that and go from there correct? Would that give accurate readings?
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I "Bulletproofed" my f-250 Super-duty last summer and she ran great for a time, actually she is still running great, except for one thing that is driving me crazy. On a cold start it turns over until the oil pressure builds up. Then she will crank and runs fine, also starts normally after warm, turns over a couple of times and cranks.
I have oil in the filter housing, have replaced the seal at the bottom of it. Just pulled the oil rails off and replaced the seals on them, and a new IPR seal and filter. I am still having the problem, F.I.C.M. voltage has been fluctuating between 45 and 46 vdc. I have a P300 and P308 code.
I haven't really considered Injectors because it is idling smooth as silk and has great power.
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2004 6.0. 160K miles.
I'm about to replace an injector and wanted baseline info on fuel pressure before doing the work. Using a gauge tapped into the top of an aluminum alloy fuel filter cap (from bulletproof diesel), I turned the switch key on but did not start the engine.
Static pressure jumped to 60psi, but as soon as the pump cut off the pressure dropped off to zero. Again, engine not started. I cycled the key off and back on and the pressure hit 60psi and held that until the pump cycled off, then dropped back to zero.
I'd like to get a few confirmations that fuel pressure should or should not fall off when the pump kicks off.
Side note, during the crank process the pressure jumps and holds at 60psi and stays at 60psi while idling. I have not conducted a dynamic road test yet. Didn't have the adapter to connect my long hose...
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Dang, won't start again. My auction truck needed batteries, so I put mine in it and bought new ones for my work truck. Couple of days later, didn't start. Checked SG and I wasn't getting enough RPM. Jumped it and it fired right up. Replaced one of the new batteries and it's started fine the last few times, until just now, in the parking lot of the tire store.
The RPMs were weak - they'd go over 160 but then fall back to the 140s. I walked home and got my auction truck, jumped it, and it still doesn't start. Just spins. RPMs still fall back to the 140s after a few seconds of cranking, but they got as high as 220 so I don't think that is the problem. Fuel pump runs, the upper bowl is full, no bubbles. Oil pressure registers on the dash after a few seconds of cranking.
The last time, I wiggled some fuses and it started. Not this time. FICM at 48, ICP around 700 while cranking. Volts and IPV are good. FPW is 0, but I think that's right, until it cranks. Same with Sync - at 0 while cranking - does it ever go to 1 without starting?
It acts like it has in the past - cranking just fine but no start. And in the past, when it finally starts, it acts like nothing was ever wrong. I checked my IPR screen about a month ago after replacing it about 6 months ago when it didn't start. What am I missing? I'll go read some threads for clues.
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I am towing my 5th wheel RV trailer and just started out on my journey. I've driven 350 miles. I stopped for a breather for about two hours. Now my truck won't start and a low oil pressure indicator beeps in the message center. My truck is a 2011 F250 super duty 6.7ltre diesel. Recently had oil change and fuel filter change.....
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As the title says I am suddenly having a long crank when starting and low oil pressure when when warm (above approximately 100 degrees). IPR goes to 85% when cranking. Stored codes were P2290 and P2291. Other symptoms are low power and what sounds like a power steering pump with low oil whine and low power. (It is not power steering related however, I checked.) I pulled the oil filter and cranked engine and filter bowl filled in less than 10 seconds.
Oil did have a fair bit of air bubbles. Oil has 5000 miles and is Motorcraft 10w30 diesel. I have not added any since the last change. I do not have the new style pump so it's not the STC fitting. What my issue is? I do have AE if any other info is required. Particulars are in sig. The searches I have done combined with the mileage I have lead me to either the low pressure pump is failing, or the high pressure pump has lost the ball bearing out of the side.
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I bought my truck 2 month ago. I use it for commuting, only short trips now ( 10 min ). After about 2 weeks the Check Engine light came on. The truck is running fine, no problems I believe, starts easy. After another 2 weeks, the CEL disappeared. Another week, and the CEL came back on and it`s there since. I have a code reader, these are the codes and meanings according the manual:
P0299 - Turbocharger "A" underboost condition
P2286 - Injector control pressure sensor circuit high
P2287 - Injector control pressure sensor circuit intermittent
P0299 Pending - same as first but with "pending" status
This is my first diesel and my first turbo charged engine. Is this a common problem? How serious? It`s a bit strange that the error came up before but disappeared. Can that happen just because of the short trips I`m making? I`m planning a long trip soon with towing my trailer, so I want to make sure the truck will not break down during the ride.
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I have a question for 11-15 Superduty, regarding the factory option remote door unlock and remote start. How far away does your system operate from?
Mine is good for only 50 ft or so MAX most of the time it won't work until about 15 ft from the truck. Been trying to get the dealer to look into it, but got told today that in the owners manual it is only good to 30 ft. Plus I randomly get a tire pressure sensor fault. The sensors are fine, but since the TPMS and door unlock/ remote start share the same antenna I think the 2 are related.
Since my 2011 would work from 100 yards most of the time I call B.S. on the 30ft. I feel that the new truck should work at least as good as my old one. Besides that 30ft is a complete waste, and virtually useless, in my opinion.
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I had new nitto snows put on my truck and low tire pressure light is on.....Checked tire pressure 65 front and 80 back.....Started truck and screen said tms pressure low.....Hit ok and drove around on and off for 2 days now and cant get the light to go out......Is there some way to get the light out or do I have to go to my dealer to have it reset???
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Last week I was driving on the highway and noticed the oil pressure gauge showed no pressure. Limped a half mile to the mother-in-laws and called for a tow. As my truck was pulled onto the flatbed I could see oil all over the bottom of the engine, tranny, rear end, etc. Turned out to be a bad oil pressure sender, which was leaking enough oil to blow the plug off the top of it.
I replaced the sensor, cleaned the engine and under-carriage, checked oil level (which showed no loss of oil) and drove around for a week without an oil pressure gauge while I waited for a new pigtail. Put the pigtail in yesterday and drove it today for the first time since. Gauge was working, got to the bank and it was reading zero pressure again. Limped home and watched the gauge go back up quickly and then back down. This happened twice and was showing pressure when I shut it off. Checked under hood, no oil leaks and plug is still secure.
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My truck gave me low fuel pressure and reduced pressure limp mode at 21,000 miles. The fuel and air filters were changed at 16,000. The dealer said all they found was the fuel filters (at 21,000) were what needed to be changed. Also, why does my truck hum??
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I just bought another 2006 model to take some of the strain off my first one with 435,000 miles. This one is a completely stock 250 with 171,000 miles and the previous owner said it would not start when it got hot.
So I started with the air test, had a leak in one of the stand pipes. Fixed it and still a no start while hot.
Pulled turbo and checked if the stc had been replaced. It hadn't so I replaced it. Air pressured checked, all good. But still no start when hot.
The thing that baffles me is if you run it till it gets hot, shut it off and try to restart it will restart each time you try until you let it sit for 2 or 3 minutes and then it will not build over 250 icp psi.
The only code I'm getting is a b1318.
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I've been having an intermittent problem with a no start condition when hot. It has lately gotten worse to the point that I was dead in the water for about 25 minutes while i had the hood open to allow things to cool off. I closed everything back up hit the key and it jumped to life just like it was new. I've read through the tech folder as well as several other threads regarding no starts but haven't run across anything that is pointing me in any one direction. It cranks over very strong on new interstate batts that are only 6 months old and the SGII shows sync on the FICM and I'm getting a good RPM signal showing about 160-170 cranking RPM.
Good logic power and showing 47.5 to the injectors. I'm running an atlas 40 from Ed in the FICM. I've wiggled wires and done a cursory look but I would think that if there was any chaffing that cooling off wouldn't affect it and it would be dead until fixed. Once it is running I have no problems, never let me down or quit on me while under way. Again, it is intermittent where I'll have 3 weeks or a month of no problem at all and then run into long crank times for another couple of weeks.
I've made no mods to any of the HP oil system and have no leaks that I can see, no consumption between oil changes. I'm in the middle of building a house right now and need the truck to be reliable. I'm pretty good with a wrench if I know what the problem is but I don't know where to start on this. It's an '06 model but an '05 build date on the motor.
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