My 6.0 stalls when its warm and it restarts no problem. no codes are given with scan gauge. No changes on icp or ipr when it happens. At idle icp ranges 577 to 737, fmp 47.5 to 48v, ipr 23 to 28, map 14.9, tfc .32. all at idle. all increase when rpm goes up. ive done the d plugs, sct plug ficm replaced 2 yrs ago. done egr delete, need to trouble shoot? Again no codes given...
View 14 Replies2003 with hot no start issues. It starts fine in the morning however will not start again after the engine gets warm, after an hour or so of cooling off it will eventually go. Not sure if I should start with.... Readings below ....
FICM L 13.5v
FICM M 48v koeo and 47 running
IPR 14.7% koeo
IPR 74.6% cranking (no start while hot)
IPR 40% (after cold start while running
ICP 737psi cold start
ICP 1600psi engine running 2k rpm
ICP 360 hot while cranking
I have s 2007 f250 superduty with a 6.0. Recently after the engine gets warm I have a problem restarting it. I have to turn the key to the run position until all sounds have stopped then I have to pump the accelerator to get it to start. Sometimes I have to repeat this three or four times before it starts. I have had the fuel pump rebuild and installed two new batteries. What I should be looking at.
View 14 RepliesI drive an 06 f350 with a 6.0 diesel. My truck has quit on me twice in two months. It lost power then stalled and would not restart. I had just changed fuel filters but checked them anyway to see if they were plugged. They looked clean so i put them back in and the truck fired up. It ran good then two months later it did the same thing.
I noticed I could not hear the fuel pump so i pulled the cap off if the top fuel filter to see if there was fuel in it, and heard air being sucked in (or pushed out?) as i loosened the cap. I put the cap back on then turned the key and i could hear the fuel pump working. I waited for glow plugs and it fired up. Is my engine getting vapor locked, or sucking air? If so then why would it only happen every now and then instead of continuously?
2006 F450 6.0 that I've owned since new. It has had 2 injectors replaced previously, EGR cooler with BPD, and a few other problem parts. As it is getting older, I have recently noticed it runs like absolute dog crap when it is cold. It can't even reasonably accelerate onto the hwy when cold. Once it is up to operating temp, it runs better. It still does not pull like it did when it was new and under 50k miles...but it is at least driveable once warm. I need to do some heavy trailer towing soon and need to get this thing back to accelerating good. What should I be looking at first for the horrible running condition when cold?
View 14 RepliesMy 06 currently has 296k miles. 3 years ago I put a lot into her. Dummy plugs, stand pipes, STC, hg,studs, oil cooler, bpd egr cooler. Cleaned spool valves and fresh o rings in injectors. (Alliant) plus a lot more that I can't remember. Ran very very well after all that.
Fast forward to a few weeks ago. Driving down road and truck died as I let off pedal to slow down for turn onto my road. Took about 7-8 tries to get started back up. Icp was reading in the 300's until it finally started. Made it home. Shut it off. And started right back up.
Few days later truck died again same way. Let off to make a turn. Several attempts to restart icp was in the 300's again. Once it started building 420ish it sounded like it was firing a few injectors and slowly started running. The next time it happened the same way but when I got it back running I eased to my inlaws like less than a mile. When I got to their house and pulled in and went to back up to turn around the display on dash said low oil pressure and started missing a little. So once I got home started researching.
A few days ago I pulled out the low pressure oil regulator to check it out. It was clean but did have some mild scaring. I used some fine scotch rite and smooth it out a a little. It moved freely in the bore so I put it back together. Then pulled the oil filter cap off to check the little black valve. I noticed the filter was not dripping with oil like normally when I change the oil. And yes it's motor craft filter and cap. It checked out ok. Press it down and turned engine over and it filled and held. Let off of it and it drained.
Next I air checked the high pressure side. Applied air and waited until I could hear the air (IPR still open) then closed the IPR. Couldn't hear any leaks. Just a very very minor his and couldn't pin point where. So I went ahead and went to dealer and got new stand pipes and plugs. And ordered new print set for injectors. Pulled injectors and didn't see any smoking guns. Replaced prongs, stand pipe and dummy plugs and put it all back together. Cleaned the injector cups and hold down bolt holes. Torqued injectors to spec.
Got it all done and rotate motor by wire next to heater blower to assist prime system. Tried to start it up and it took two tries but fired right up and sounded smooth as hell. After it idled a few minutes I saw a haze from exhaust. It smelt just like fuel. A few minutes later started idle a little rough. Gave it some go pedel and it was rougher at about 1600-1800rpms and couldn't feel it above 2k. Got my laptop out with AE and done balance test. Did not show anything. No codes either.
1990 Celica 2.2 liter, 5SFE manual trans car with 239k miles.The car occasionally stalls after it is warm and won't restart. When is is cold she fires right up as it does most of the time when she is warm. To restart he sprays starter fluid in the intake or waits until it cools down. Also as the car gets warm the idle decreases to around 650. Adjusted idle speed to 750 but no effect. The only code is 1-2, low or no RPM, measured the RPM sensor air gap and within spec, measured the sensor resistance and within spec. sensor wiring and connector looked good, measured the temp sensor and within spec, disconnected the EGR vacuum line and no effect. Problem occurs once or twice a week but at the most embarrassing place.
View 4 RepliesI was driving and went to accelerate quickly and had no power, checked the boost gauge and it had very low boost. Continued like this the rest of the drive, all gauges normal, no check engine light, not towing or hot. Got home then next time out it was back to normal.
Someting to be concerned about? Or just a computer hiccup. Truck is '13 with 66k.
I have a 2007 F350 6.0 Diesel. Truck starts and runs great for about 10 miles and then loses power and slows down til it dies, it does this without any kind of warning and does not rattle or anything. If i let it sit for about 15 min it will start right up and drive fine for another 10 miles or so and do the same thing.
It did the same thing in December but would not restart at all and the ficm was the cause at that time so i went ahead and replaced the ficm just to eliminate it. I also replaced the fuel pump and the ipr and icp valves are good. The only engine code has to do with the fuel level sensor and that has been on for a year. The egr was recently replaced, the hpop is putting out the psi that it is supposed to and there are not any internal air leaks.
This is the second time this has happened to me . Truck runs fine shut it off go to re start and it's a no start. I can watch the ficm volts drop to 0 from 48.5. Then it's 0 until it decides it gets power again?
View 8 Replies04 Excursion with 03 motor. I had been getting a no hot restart problem. Now it won't start at all.
FICM 48
rpm around 155-175
ipr goes to 77
icp jumps to 475 and drops back to 400-425
My problem started in Virginia, so I got it started cold and drove all the way home to Indiana without shutting it off. Pretty much been parked since. I've driven it 4-5 times. Now it won't start at all.
I have some LPO problem: I posted it November 2013 [URL] ....
After that I replaced LPO regulator, front cover gasket set, LPO cover (Ford tech said my gearator was fine). I don't think this problem is fixed still
We tried to do a leak down air test. Honestly couldn't hear much of a difference with IPR on vs off. Pulled IPR, found the screen in tact but the plastic pieces that hold it on were all rotted away and broken. I replaced with a brand new IPR to be safe.
I'm not real sure what to look into next. Right now I have both valve covers off and tried to look for a HPO leak in valve covers while cranking. I don't see any oil anywhere coming into the valve train. Shouldn't there be LPO somewhere?
My oil is old now but it was T6 and brand new when this problem first occured. Motorcraft filter but the cap is river city diesel billet cap [URL] ....
Could it be as simple as the oil screen to the HPOP or the check ball in the pump? Can the LPO gauge dropping be related to the no start now? Are there any techs that live in Southern Indiana and want to make some side cash? Last thing I want to do is bring this to the local shop or even worse the dealer. Last time the dealer said they wouldn't touch it because the tuner and EGR delete and the local shop left it sitting for a month and hadn't even touched it.
So... Tonight I had just stopped at the bank to deposit a check, hopped in the truck and started her up (started great with no problem), drove the truck through the shopping center and was about to turn on the main road when she died. I coasted into a parking spot and tried to restart her... But all I get is cranking, no firing up or any signs of trying to fire up. Any thoughts?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2004 f350 6.0 and it makes 550 horsepower and lately when I go to started in the morning it'll start at once everything gets up to temperature if I shut it off it will not start again without starting fluid into the air box if it's warm...
View 2 RepliesMy Brothers truck died while driving and won't restart. I am going to be getting IDS on it tomorrow night and just wanted some feedback on things to watch. I am planning to watch FICM sync, ICP pressure, IPR %, FICM voltage, and fuel pressure(not in IDS). Anything else I should watch while testing?
Edit: this truck is a 2005
Started today. 2004 with 235k miles. Owned for last 10k miles. Engine was recently studded, has egr delete and ccv bypass. Runs and starts fine. New Ford oil cooler too. Checked for codes. None for misfires, perdel are reading 0.
If it sits, on start up clear exhaust, as it warms, more blue smoke. Smells like oil not diesel.
Researched before asking and found leaking turbo seals can cause this. So we pulled the intercooler tube in front of the engine going to the intake expecting to find oil residue. Nice and dry. Was this the correct one to look at?
When we got the truck we had the dealer do a relative compression test and was within limits, it did need 1 injector that we replaced. What would be the next logical place to look?
Couple more points:
- Just changed oil last week, checked today, it was slightly over full.
- Coolant is fresh and has not changed level since we got it.
- Pulled fuel filter to see if any oil, but it was nice and clean.
I have a 2004 6.0 that has been pissing me off to no end lately. I has a random dying/no start problem. If it idles for ten minutes, it'll die sometimes. And if I drive it and shut it off, it won't restart sometimes. I just drove it three hours on Friday, shut it off and it restarted immediately. Drove it around town all weekend and it started fine every time.
Now driving it home and stopped for fuel 45 minutes in, and it won't start. I have all sensor readings in spec except for I have no ficm sync while cranking. I have about 5k miles on new hpop, injectors, ipr valve, icp sensor, oil rail rebuilds, stand pipes, ficm and engine harness and injector harness. No codes either. If it sits for a couple hours it'll start fine. I've wiggled as many wires as I can and it still won't start. I have rpm while cranking on my edge too. Don't know if that would rule out crank sensor or cam sensor.
It just started to die on him lately. Doesn't matter if he is driving or idling. When it dies doesnt sputter or anything. Won't crank up until next day and if it does start only runs for 5 min or so. Checked ficm 48.5 volts. Ipr while cranking is at 48% icp is about 1200 while cranking. The dash oil pressure or rpm gauge does not move but when I hook up my ids it shows 180 rpm. Changed fuel filters. New oil. Does fill up oil canister if I hold the drane button down. Getting fuel. Thought maybe ipr but thought I would check with you all. Unplugging the icp doesn't work. 03 motor with 180k miles.
View 9 RepliesMy truck ran great when I got to my house that I turned it off and tried turning it on again it wouldn't turn on I check the fuel pump it works I checked the injector if it was getting fuel it was .I'm a stand still, where else to check? What to do?
View 14 RepliesMy 2012 diesel frequently stalls momentarily after I touch the brake. This is very annoying as I drive in heavy traffic and often have to touch the brake then accelerate to merge into freeway traffic. The dealer service department said this was a 'feature' and not a flaw. Is there any way to eliminate this issue?
View 5 Replies6.7 with 19k . Drove about 2 miles and noticed dash lights were flashing and ac was not working correctly . Pulled into garage shut off and truck wouldn't restart, no crank ! All my dash lights were flashing & dash was giving numerous messages.. At least I wasn't on my road trip 2 weeks ago! 3400 mile round trip. Truck was towed to dealer! My 6.0 never left me stranded & I had 3 of them..
View 14 RepliesI had to drop my fuel tank and as a result, I replaced the fuel lines from the underbed filter to the tank. After replacing everything, I purged, purged, and purged some more. With much difficulty I was able to get the truck running and it ran good. But, I have trouble restarting the truck anytime I let it sit for a couple of hours. It cranks and cranks and eventually fires, but with much difficulty.
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