Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2006 - Replaced 1357 Injector - Crank But No Start?
Apr 26, 2016
2006 6.0 king ranch 189k sct live wire Replaced 1357 injectors and when I crank truck it will crank and sputter for a brief second but will not fully start and continue cranking and doing this over and over. Tried starting for roughly 30 minutes would not budge. Tested icp and ficm both are good. Also replaced batteries, fuel filters, checked all relays and fuses still can't figure it out. Also truck is bulletproofed.
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I was driving and my truck started have lack of power, could barely get going on hills, tons of blue smoke (smelled like diesel) real rough idle. I unplugged injectors and found #5 made no difference. I replaced it today and I can't get it to start. It'll get to 2000+ psi 48v ficm, low pressure oil registers, ficm says its in sync. It will crank and blow a lot of black like its half firing or something. It has even crank to, until it tries to fire. From what I've been reading could it be the ficm? That one circuit is fried?
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I have working on this one for a while ( sick wife keeping out of garage for some time) Truck fires up in the morning when cold then refuses to start when warm. Of course HPOP leak. HPOP was replaced 5k miles ago. Now today when I drove with AE connected truck all of sudden started to run rough on the highway. I pulled DTC P0279 low circuit for injector 7. My question is can the leak be at injector 7 on the oil rail? Maybe cracked injector? Waiting for the motor to cool so I can do pop off valve cover . BTW early 04 .
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My nephew has a 2004 F350 that will crank but will not start. It will build oil pressure on the gauge. There is no injector buzz and no communication through OBD2 port. Is the PCM dead?
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I have a 2006 F250 6.0 with 218xxx on it. Have had a ton of issues since day one, but I finally thought I had gotten a handle on all of them until the other day. Truck started sounding a little rough, no noticeable effect on performance, no codes on my Edge CTS (except one random CKP sensor code that went away). Was leaving work later that day to go home and it started up fine.
Got about a 1/4 mile from the shop and went to turn onto a busier road so I put into the pedal a little bit. Truck immediately lost power. Sounded like a turbo boot blowing and I had very little throttle response. Immediately pulled over and checked codes with truck still on, nothing. Got out and popped the hood with the truck still idling to check for CAC tube/boot etc. As I was looking at it, the engine started screeching. I shut it off as quick as I could get back to the cab.
Looked over everything, nothing noticeably wrong. Went to crank it to see what it would do. All i got was a noise from the starter engaging. Belt not turning over. Tried unplugging the fan clutch (read a thread with similar symptoms and that was the issue for them), connected the starter solenoid directly to battery, same issue. Removed belt and attempted to crank. Same thing. Removed all glow plugs to check for hydrolock. Motor slowly would turn with belt still removed and no glowplugs. Removed starter and tested outside of vehicle, solenoid and motor both seem to be ok.
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I have a 06 6.0 f-250 it cranks but won't start untill I pull the secondary fuel filter cap off and seems to vent air in the system out then it starts right up. I can't figure out where it's sucking air. Here's my question I changed the fuel sending unit in the tank a few weeks ago and had a hard time seating the lid on top of fuel tank. If it is not completely seated will this cause air in the fuel system and give me the headache I've been dealing with?
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My wife and I went on vacation for our anniversary and the truck ran fine for a while then we went back to get ready and when we left it started up and everything seemed fine but it died about 200 yards later and is now cranking but not starting. Left my toolbox at the house (stupid!) And truck is new to me so I don't have gauge or reader. Checked the fuel filter under the hood and fuel pump is pumping. Any other tips on what to do that could be the problem without buying parts?
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I have a 2006 F-350 4x4 CC LB. I recently had my check engine light come on coincidentally on my way to the auto parts store. Asked them to plug in the scanner and read the code. It had around 20! This truck has 40000 miles on it. All of the codes were dealing with injector voltage being low. All eight cylinders. So I'm thinking ficm is going out. I replaced the batteries shortly after this. I driven it a time or two after this and it started cutting in an out going down the road. Seemed down a few cylinders for a few seconds and pouring black smoke from the tailpipe of a stick truck. Made it home after it did this there times. Stated it up to move it a few days ago. Some white smoke that clears quickly and ran rough for a few, pulled it in gear surged forward and died. I cleaned the EGR valve and re o ringed it. Tested the drivers side pin on the FICM and have 47-48 volts with key on and cranking.
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2003 6.0 psd owned two years driven 2 months due to money thrown prior to forums and scangauge 2. Bought truck in chicago drove home. Oil in coolant. Did egr delete oil cooler all gaskets orings etc. New oil filters motorcraft fuel filters .new rad fluod wix trtmnt. Truck started right up. Still had same intermitantstudder as always when cold. Always exp those sysyems until hot then here and there until parked then hot no start or hard long start when hot. Knew something was wrong and waited for it to come to a head well it did in may.
I was driving coming up to a stop sign and truck died like i shut key off. Refired once off ether. Lasted 3 seconds died no restart period didnt even want to just crank crank crank.
ok towed truck i thought it was injector orings. Changed them still nothing . New icp. New cpm. Now have icp of 66 to 120psi cranking.ipr 14.40 koeo up to 84 when cranking. Ive unplugged just get eratic reading ipr stays same. Checked ficm 47to47.5 cranking and koeo. No codes beside for my egr delete and when i unplugged icp. I've been tinkering on this truck for a couple years now still lost bit getting better. I now have driver valve cover off . Its a 2003 .
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I bought my truck 2 month ago. I use it for commuting, only short trips now ( 10 min ). After about 2 weeks the Check Engine light came on. The truck is running fine, no problems I believe, starts easy. After another 2 weeks, the CEL disappeared. Another week, and the CEL came back on and it`s there since. I have a code reader, these are the codes and meanings according the manual:
P0299 - Turbocharger "A" underboost condition
P2286 - Injector control pressure sensor circuit high
P2287 - Injector control pressure sensor circuit intermittent
P0299 Pending - same as first but with "pending" status
This is my first diesel and my first turbo charged engine. Is this a common problem? How serious? It`s a bit strange that the error came up before but disappeared. Can that happen just because of the short trips I`m making? I`m planning a long trip soon with towing my trailer, so I want to make sure the truck will not break down during the ride.
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OK...I ask that you bear with me while I explain my question/issue.
I bought a used 2006 F350 Super Duty diesel last October (Oct 2015) and it has about 124,500 miles on it now. Last week, the power cut out as I was driving home from running an errand. Jumped it and got it back to the house. Suspected the alternator as both batteries tested low (according to AutoZone). Purchased the 110amp alternator and after a few days...I was able to get the alternator installed. AutoZone charged the batteries back up.
Today, I was able to start the truck and drive it around the block in order to make sure everyone was okay - before I took it out on the streets. Got back to the driveway....ABS light comes on, radio shuts off, odometer light goes off, etc. I shut the engine off and let it sit for a minute. Try to start it back up...and nothing happens. Ended up disconnecting both batteries while I ponder the root cause of the issue.
Is it possible the 110amp alternator is not strong enough to handle the power requirements (and that's why the dashboard lights went out)? To the best of my knowledge, there's only 1 alternator. The only "extra" that's installed is the tow/haul package (which I haven't used yet). According to the Ford Parts web site - after I enter the VIN for my truck - the results show a 110amp alternator (heavy duty alternator).
Would exchanging the 110amp for the 140amp be the most logical place to start? Or is there something I missed as a replaced the alternator?
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In the last 2 months I've replaced my starter and 2 new batteries. I've tested the alternator and it's fine. What more is there? I'm guessing the FICM is going to crap. If I attach a scangauge 2 to it now would it tell me if that's the problem?
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The truck was running fine then I shut it off one day and it wouldn't start back up long powerful cranks but wouldn't start pulled the valve covers checked branch tubes and dummy plugs all looked good (not for sure though) replaced the icp and even tried unplugging it after the hot crank no start to see if that worked because that was the only a code I threw but alas it did not work.
I did a air test and closed the IPR valve via fancy tool and was getting some minor gurgling out of the oil filter resivuar and was guided to change the hpop being that was the beloved issue I couldn't get the j-tube out to inspect but everything else was clean as a whistle ... I was getting some air flow threw the oil filler cap and the air intake box on the driver's side valve cover but was told that is normal but not sure how normal when I replaced hpop it appears it stopped gurgling as much.
When I did the following air test but it started when cold but then it struggled but it did start then my batteries died out turns out I do have a bad negative connection I getting the batteries re charged gonna pick them up today and tighten that connection along with a new air filter via reading in the hanes manual that can sometimes cause a hot crank no start .
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I just finished the replacement of my injector cups and I replaced every hose on that engine and when i replaced the heater hoses I believe I hooked them up right but just want to make sure. Is there an IN and and OUT on the heater core or does it not matter???? Im only asking simply because my legs feel like their on fire. Im wondering if the hot coolant is flowing through with out demanding it. I havent drove the truck in a while so Im questioning everything.
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So I went to start my 2006 this morning and it would not crank at all. Like the battery was dead ( all the light in the cab and headlights were working fine. ) so I tried to jump it and still nothing no clicks not crank no nothing. Just for fun I went ahead and jumped the starter (using the same method as when I prime the hpo system) starter cranked no problem so I put the key in the on position and cranked the key again still nothing. So I put the key in the on position again and jumped the starter truck fired right up. So I went back in the cab and tried to start it with the key and it started right up like nothing ever was wrong. What was causing this? Also my voltage was at 11.5 with the key on and engine off when it was running the volts were at 12 to 12.5
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I have a 2003 Excursion with the 6.0 power stroke. I recently had a few codes, cylinder 2, 3, and 8 contribution/balance fault. I asked a buddy of mine, and he said I needed new injectors. I replaced them all, properly torqued everything down, and got it running. She ran for 20 minutes before it started missing again. I shut it down, and since then it hasn't started. That was two Sundays ago. Since then, I've replaced the ficm, all fuses related to the ficm and fuel pump, and even went in and checked all the connectors. Everything is in place, but it still won't run.
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I have a 2004 6liter. I parked one day two weeks ago and a went out last week to move it and I will only crank over. No fire No start!!!! Have new batteries. New fuel filter and have fuel coming in to the fuel bowl. I have gone over the harness, checked my fuses. I do not have a reader or scanner. Any recommendations. I want more than just a code scanner.
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I was driving down the road and suddenly lost tons of acceleration power had to almost flour it to move at all so I pulled off the road to stop and check it out. After I stopped I couldn't get it to start again it would crank like it wanted to start but nothing. So I had I towed home and it sat for a little while and then I tried to crank again, and it started and idled like crap and when I pushed down on the gas pedal there was no reaction, rpms didn't go up or nothing but still would idle like crap.
Symptoms stayed the same for about a day and no I have a crank no start. So then I did what little I could do just to see if it was an easy fix I changed the ICP sensor, IPR sensor, and EGR valve needed to be replaced so I replaced that too. Headstuds and gaskets have been done as well by previous owner but not I think it might be an HPOP problem? I am unable to read codes at the moment as well just FYI. Could this be a fuel filter issue even tho the secondary housing fills with diesel?
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ok, so after all the work done (headgaskets, head bolts, egr valve, ipr valve, egr cooler, oil cooler, blue spring kit, new ficm injector harness connectors), this is what I'm left with on start up. I am now getting no SYNC -0
I had ficm sync before i changed the connectors on the injector harness (last thing i did besides blue spring kit). Has this motor turn this way? And my glow plug light now comes on during and post crank along with a weird fuel light with 3 teardrops I've never seen before. I need to check this out.
48.0 ficm KOEO, 48.3 crank
IPC 3 KOEO, 1100 crank
IPR 14.1 KOEO, 46 crank
IPC volt .23 KOEO, 1.23 crank
Passed bubble test
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2003 6.0, all stock. Crank, no start with an occasional sputter when it actually shows FICM SYNC = YES.
It had the following relevant DTCs when I scanned it:
P0261, P0270, P0276 and P0279 - Cylinders 1, 4, 6 and 7 - Injector circuit low
P132B - Turbocharger/Supercharger boost control A performance
P2614 - CMP Open circuit
P2617 - CKP Open circuit
CMP/CKP SYNC transitions to and maintains YES while cranking, however FICM SYNC transitions back and forth between YES and NO while cranking. When it transitions to YES, a cylinder or two will fire when FIPW comes up, but FICM SYNC almost immediately transitions back to NO.
Based solely on the scan tool results, Cranking shows IPR DC at about 50%, ICP PSI ~1500, ICP V ~2.0. These are stable and steady. FICM main power is at 49.5v and drops to 49.0 when it fires the occasional injector while cranking. RPM reads above 150 while cranking.
I'm thinking that since CMP/CKP SYNC stays YES and is stable and RPM reading is consistent, the CMP & CKP sensors and circuits are most likely good. I'm thinking with the codes for injectors 1, 4, 6 and 7 it probably points more toward a FICM issue.
Another thing that may or may not be relevant is the pre-cycle clatter sounds off to me. With an ambient temp of about 70F, the pre-cycle seems to repeat 3 times. The second and third cycles sound worse than the first. This is in the video below.
I work on far more 7.3s than I do 6.0s, so I'm looking for anything I may have overlooked, a second/third/fourth opinion, or if there's a flaw in my logic for someone to point it out.
6.0 No Start - YouTube
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Brother in law company 6.0 died on him in his driveway after a night of plowing
It stalled out, his boss sent out a "tech" and he said it doesn't have "nearly enough" oil pressure
Now I want to further diagnose the truck myself with my scan gauge II but haven't used it for that......yet......
What should I check for IPR pressure psi or %?
I know I can get ICP pressure in PSI on my SCT x4 not sure about the Scan Gauge......
I assume a blown IPR or failed STC fitting......
Truck is a 2005..... I can figure out the scan gauge I just need to know what to look for for an idea of a blown IPR or STC or ICP.
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