I have a 2006 6.0 with 165,000 miles. No over heating runs fine ,no smoke but I have oily foam in my degas bottle. No coolant in my oil. Scratching my head over this.
View 14 RepliesI have coolant leaking from under my degas bottle. There was a spot on the driveway this morning and upon investigation, I saw a drip hanging from the bottom of the degas. No liquid on top at all. Where this is coming from? Bottom hose?
Also, the boot that connects the tube (right side while looking at front of truck) to the elbow that goes into the intake is leaking oil and making a mess. Whats the best way to fix? Remove boot, clean up, and put back on? Or replace boot? If replace, where can I get that boot?
Just bought a used 2011 ford f350 with the 6.7 diesel engine. Coming from a 7.3 1999 f350 with 330,000 miles, still going good. Took a 1000 mile trip on the 11 truck with out pulling anything did good. Hooked my enclosed trailer to it did a trip of 900 down and 900 back. Transmission temps were staying around the 250f, almost in yellow on gauge. Highest it went was 255f. Light never came on. Yesterday on trip without trailer was staying at 230f on trans temp. This is the first concern.
Second concern, had antifreeze coming out the cap on the degas bottle. Rolled over the hood and hit the drivers side windshield. Stopped un did the cap, it hissed. Put 2 quarts of antifreeze in drove on, this at 300 miles of trip. Primary water pump went out, half way there, at about 550 miles of trip. On trip back, about 1600 miles of trip, antifreeze was on windshield again. Undid cap, hissed, did not need to add any to it. Drove on no problems since. Have bought a new cap and installed.
Transmission doesn't want to shift right when its cold. First starting out. When it warms up shifts great. That's third problem.
I was towing my camper uphill and my 03 6.0 started missing and blowing black kid smoke. Next thing I know I hear a loud pop and steam is coming from under the hood and the truck dies. I pull over and discover the degas lid is stuck on and the bottle came apart at the the seam and the truck will not start. 6.0 with 120k miles
View 1 RepliesMy degas bottle is building pressure and coolants puking out. This happens after a light drive started months ago it sat at mechanic for 3 months he never touched it just wanted to replace motor so i brought it home. The truck starts and idles and runs fine temp gauge sits at normal. There was white smoke a few times several months back when it started up but went away after warm up but none now. I don't drive it i have a spare vehicle i tried doing exhaust gas test on degas bottle to check head gaskets today with no luck. They gave me the gasser only fluid with tester. No coolant on the ground and I've added the dye to see it with ultraviolet light no leaks around radiator.
View 14 RepliesI've been MIA for a while. 2006 F250 just hit 83k miles. My coolant must be puking out of the degas tank. White residue all over degas and drivers side engine bay. I had my mechanic buddy pressure test coolant system for several hours and he said there weren't any leaks. He told me to replace the degas cap for now. Didn't solve the problem. Temps have always been fine. Never found drops or a puddle of coolant. Even when the truck has sat overnight for over 8 hours, there is still a bunch of pressure built up when cap is removed.
View 14 RepliesI have this problem code P0405. At fist it come up with a turbo under boost. I have replaced the Turbo and egr valve and I still have the P0405. I did notice a oily residual in the port for the egr valve I see no deference in coolant. She idles good I just have no power when I put it in gear to move.
View 3 RepliesMy worst fear realized when I saw oil pouring out of my degas bottle today. It was pressurized pretty good too. No coolant in the oil though. And no coolant coming out of the oil cooler after pulling the filter.
Ive had this 2000 Excursion since new and have 263000 miles on it with zero engine trouble. Ive always said if the engine goes its all she wrote. So I'm just sick!
Ive done every repair on this baby myself. Ive bragged on this engine for 17 years! Literally nothing but oil and plugs but my luck just ran out.
So, Im pretty sure I know whats wrong but Id like to hear what y'all think it is and how bad it is to fix. Ive searched this forum as usual which has never failed to steer me in the right direction but Im not finding the answer this time.
Found this tonight. Looks like oil in the degas. No smell of diesel, just the familiar odor of new green coolant. Cap was still holing pressure when I opened it.
Looks like I need to change the oil cooler. What is the best way to flush the cooling system out that has a leaking cooler and is contaminated with oil?
I pulled my air filter for inspection last weekend. The 6.7L airbox is segmented into two parts - One part is very large and contains the pleated paper air filter, as well as the air intake in the base. The other part is small and contains a half-section of the pleated filter, with a fine foam filter below. However, the foam extends out through a sizable hole in the bottom of the small compartment and runs down outside of the box nearly to the base of the entire air box (held on by some plastic straps).
What is the purpose of the foam and "secondary" air intake? Why not simply use one compartment with the paper air filter?
My truck has a 6 o powerstroke. I noticed some coolant loss, which I've been monitoring since I had the truck studded 2 years ago. Today I was looking around trying to find a cause of the coolant loss and I noticed some crusty orange residue on a hose that runs under the coolant reservoir. The hose seems to go behind the valve covers along the firewall to the passenger side through a steel line, and then go in a loop back to itself?
I'm guessing it's for the heater core, but I didn't see where it actually goes into the heater core, or anything else for that matter. It is a molded hose that has one of those crimped transitions into the steel line, so I'm not sure if patching it is an option or if I should look at replacing the whole piece. I'm guessing it's going to be expensive. From the fact that it never failed before, I'm thinking it wasn't originally routed with it touching the valve cover and was just something that happened after having the body off during the stud install.
I was day dreamimng and the fuel pump this mornin and by accident dumped 32 ounces (whole bottle) of Stanadyne and then pumped 33 of 38 gallons of diesel to fill her up. Thats double the spec of what I should have used. Do I need to worry about anything or no big deal?
View 4 RepliesI got a little oily residue on my hood here. It looks like it might be a little wet near the coolant hose & throttle body area. I also have the H&S Intercooler pipe kit installed. Not sure how long this residue has been there, but it is still wet, so its not all hardened. Maybe it's just loose intercooler pipe bolts?
View 7 RepliesLong story short I am working on an engine that was already dismantled (down to the heads). I am trying to figure out why someone tore the engine down. Vehicle is a recovered theft and it was recovered with all parts.
I removed the exhaust manifolds from the heads to start cleaning them up and replacing the exhaust bolts (rust). When I removed the exhaust manifolds the front two cylinders on the right side (1 and 3) were oily wet. The back two cylinders were sooty and normal. The front cylinder (2) on the left side was not as bad but did have a oily film on top of the valve and valve stem. I do not see any indication of anti freeze or coolant.
I looked at the head gasket and could feel a oil film between layers on 1 and 3. No oil on 2 that I could detect. I'm thinking there was a head gasket problem but not totally convinced. The cylinders and pistons look good from the top and the cylinders still show the cross hatch honing. No ridge on the top of the cylinder either. The motor has 122k miles on it.
Other than head gasket would there be something in common that could feed oil to those cylinders? I have eliminated the turbo. There is no oily film on any intake runners. It could just be a blown head gasket but it is not obvious if it is.
2005 w/ 188,000 miles, A/T. Zero driveability issues. Torque Pro shows VGT % changing as expected, but I think that's just a commanded %, not a measured %.
So for the last month or so, every time I start my truck, I hear a noise about 3-4 seconds later that lasts about half a second. It sounds like a bottle rocket shooting up into the air (that whistle/scream sound). It happens whether I'm in my 55'F garage with the block heater plugged for a few hours (coolant temp 80-100F), or if it's sitting in the parking lot at work at 20'F all day.
I'm guessing the turbo needs to be cleaned (unison ring sticking?) but want to just get a few quick opinions if that's the right direction to go.
I found there's a $60 Ford brand cleaning kit with some new seals and the 3M sanding discs, so I think I'd do that. Plus, I read there's a new/updated turbo oil drain tube I should install while its apart.
So the big questions I have are: is it likely I need a turbo cleaning, and what else should I do at the same time? Oil drain update? Or am I barking up the wrong tree?
And because this thread is worthless without a pic, here I am leading the charge to Rausch Creek last summer!
I would like the hear what others have to say about the problems I'm having with my 2006 F-350 sd xlt 6.0 with 113,000 miles on it. It's being used as a tool truck mostly going from a shop on the property to close by buildings on the same property. In other words very short distances. Used occasionally to take a dump trailer to a close by dumping ground.
1. White smoke from exhaust. I've read this is most likely an ERG cooler that needs replacing. Any other possible causes? If I end up having to replace the cooler is there a stock cooler that is reliable or should I get the one by bullet proof?
2. Diesel is dripping from the muffler weep hole. Last full tank lasted only 60 miles. Could this be the oil cooler? Anything else? If so is the Ford replacement cooler OK or should I go with an upgraded cooler?
OK...I ask that you bear with me while I explain my question/issue.
I bought a used 2006 F350 Super Duty diesel last October (Oct 2015) and it has about 124,500 miles on it now. Last week, the power cut out as I was driving home from running an errand. Jumped it and got it back to the house. Suspected the alternator as both batteries tested low (according to AutoZone). Purchased the 110amp alternator and after a few days...I was able to get the alternator installed. AutoZone charged the batteries back up.
Today, I was able to start the truck and drive it around the block in order to make sure everyone was okay - before I took it out on the streets. Got back to the driveway....ABS light comes on, radio shuts off, odometer light goes off, etc. I shut the engine off and let it sit for a minute. Try to start it back up...and nothing happens. Ended up disconnecting both batteries while I ponder the root cause of the issue.
Is it possible the 110amp alternator is not strong enough to handle the power requirements (and that's why the dashboard lights went out)? To the best of my knowledge, there's only 1 alternator. The only "extra" that's installed is the tow/haul package (which I haven't used yet). According to the Ford Parts web site - after I enter the VIN for my truck - the results show a 110amp alternator (heavy duty alternator).
Would exchanging the 110amp for the 140amp be the most logical place to start? Or is there something I missed as a replaced the alternator?
So this '06 F350 is blowing fluid from the steering pump fitting when you move steering wheel to either side all the way(lock). Is the internal o-ring blown in the fitting? Do these have the teflon seal at the pump? Pretty new to the 6.0 scene. Got a new line ordered.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2006 F250 with a 6 liter diesel I got about a hundred sixty thousand miles on it I've had it bullet-proofed haven't had too many problems with it I thought the fuel pump went out yesterday so I replaced it drove fine for a few hours then it started losing power and like it wasn't getting fuel and died I got it home took a test light and check for power at the fuel pump I don't have any positive or negative power ran a hot wire and a ground straight from the battery and hooked it up to the pump and it worked but when I plug the factory wiring back into it and turn the key on I don't have any power I checked the fuses they're fine...
View 6 RepliesWhen replacing the power steering pump on my 2006 should I go OEM on the pump or save some money and get a Napa or aftermarket remaned unit with the pulley installed? Also, whar is the fluid capacity of the power steering system?
View 14 RepliesI have a 06 f350 superduty with a 6.0 I have had injector problems before with the motor even hydro locking no start this is the problem my truck started blowing white smoke with a strong diesel smell everyone said it was oil cooler but I took it to a ford garage the guy said I had 2 injectors hung open and wasn't hydro locking and suggested to put all 8 in so I did 3400.00 not I went to pick it up had no power at all turbo was not kicking in so I took it right back to them they checked it out said turbo was sticking had to clean it it would take 6 hrs. said the fuel In the motor caused it it was working fine when I took it to them now they say maybe a new turbo are they giving me the run around or is this possible....
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