Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2006 - Oil Pressure Gauge Says Zero?
Feb 5, 2013
Have 2006 Ford Power stroke with 6.0 in it.. Just started doing this ... When Im driving the oil pressure gauge is fine and motor sound fine, but sometime when I come to a stop sign the oil gauge will drop all the way down to zero, the motor still runs fine and has plenty of oil in it. After I press on the fuel pedal to raise the RPMS just a couple the gauge goes back up. the odometer will all so blank out and it will flash "read gauges" when this occurs,, its driving me crazy and not sure where to start..
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OK so 2006 f550 6.0
If I want to monitor fuel pressure with a gauge in cab while running all the time... (not just testing) can I purchase one of the secondary fuel filter caps that have a port in the top and connect the sensor to this to run or is there a better way? (Or is that not going to work)
Cap I am talking about is something like this
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(I know this is a combo kit but they do sell the fuel only) But since it has a threaded port in the top I could connect the fuel pressure sensor to that and go from there correct? Would that give accurate readings?
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Last week I was driving on the highway and noticed the oil pressure gauge showed no pressure. Limped a half mile to the mother-in-laws and called for a tow. As my truck was pulled onto the flatbed I could see oil all over the bottom of the engine, tranny, rear end, etc. Turned out to be a bad oil pressure sender, which was leaking enough oil to blow the plug off the top of it.
I replaced the sensor, cleaned the engine and under-carriage, checked oil level (which showed no loss of oil) and drove around for a week without an oil pressure gauge while I waited for a new pigtail. Put the pigtail in yesterday and drove it today for the first time since. Gauge was working, got to the bank and it was reading zero pressure again. Limped home and watched the gauge go back up quickly and then back down. This happened twice and was showing pressure when I shut it off. Checked under hood, no oil leaks and plug is still secure.
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What is the least intrusive way to install an oil pressure gauge in these trucks and still maintain the input to the computer?
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I currently own a 2006 F550 4x4 pick-up. I just finished changing the oil and my oil pressure gauge is not working....
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Adding a coolant pressure gauge to truck? There are some expensive kits but considering I already have a gauge that would work, could I just buy a 5v sending unit for fuel pressure or oil pressure and have it work?
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OK so here is what is going on in my world. I have an '03 F-250 6.0 Crew Cab 4x4, with an Edge programmer and 4" MBRP exhaust. About 3 years and only 20,000 miles ago I changed out the HPOP, O-rings on the rails, all new O-rings on the injectors, blue spring in the fuel pump, IPR valve, EGR valve and a number of other new seals in my high pressure system. The truck has run great since then. I cleaned out my turbo about a year ago and it has been like new.
Now for the fun part. About a month ago it has been cranking a little longer when hot than it should, but not too bad. About 2 weeks ago even though it starts fine in the morning, it is just completely gutless out of the driveway until about a block away the turbo spools up strong and it runs great. It has run perfectly during this time once it is warmed up a little bit. Saturday it left me stranded in a parking lot cranking with no start. It had been sitting for about 2 hours.
I got towed home and plugged in my SGII and it shows my ICP at 345 when cranking hot. Once cold it starts up and runs great, but won't start again once hot. I changed out my IPR valve with a used one that I had on the shelf that I took out when I did my HPOP. No change. The FICM has 47 volt while cranking and 49 when just ign is on. Batteries are very strong and it has a new starter. When cranking the low oil pressure comes up on the gauge. Not sure where to start and I am frustrated. I have had this truck for 9 years and it is in great shape. It only has 138,000 miles.
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I finally received all the parts needed for installing my fuel pressure gauge, but I am wondering if I am going to need a schrader valve on my fuel pressure line going to the sending unit, or if I am going to be safe with just doing a 6 time cycle of the fuel pump like we do when we change out the fuel filters. Seems like that should work for getting the air out of the fuel lines, same concept I would think.
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Well, I was cruising down the highway @70MPH and notice the fuel pressure gauge dropped down to 50 then back to 65. Kept watching the gauge and it would swing back and forth from 55 to 65.
Got off the highway. Nailed it at the light and watched the gauge drop to 53 and swing back to 65. Fuel pressure is not steady either. It swings back and forth from 52 to 65. Thinking the pump is on its her last legs? Truck got 194K on her.
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Couple of years ago I installed a fuel pressure gauge. I wrapped the fittings with teflon tape. Well within about a year it started leaking. So I shopped around and used Permatex Permashield fuel resistant sealant on the fittings. It says diesel resistant on the package. Couple months later leaking again. So I take it apart again, clean every fitting and follow the instructions to the letter. Well its leaking again. What will resist diesel fuel under 55 psi pressure. All the fittings seem to be pipe thread.
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Just changed the fuel filter in my '04 6.0, no issues worked just like normal, filter primed truck started, great. Well now my fuel pressure gauge is reading dead 0, I know that can't be right because the truck is running, but noticed my fuel mileage seems about 2 mpg lower all of a sudden. Had R&R Injectors installed about 40k ago, figure it's just a bad gauge but wanted to check and see before messing with the frickin wiring. Also, have had a lot of pressure buildup in the coolant tank, has had head gaskets and studs, anything else it could be besides head gaskets? Have had a lot of wiring issues with this truck from the previous owner....
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The backlight for my fuel level and oil pressure dash gauges are out. Would that require a simple bulb replacement or if there is something more difficult to replace, i.e. entire panel? The red needles illuminate, it's just the gauges themselves that are dark. The truck is my 05 Super Duty in the siggy.
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Background: My 06 started up and ran fine until #7 injector took a crap.I had the injectors replaced with 155/stocks from warren.
Well no we're having an issue with a hot no start. Starts and runs just fine cold but once up to temp and you shut her down you can't start it again till it cools. Air tested it 3 different times can't find any leaks. Swapped out the ipr with a new one my mechanic had just to see and no change, unplugged it and no change.
What it could be. When warm and trying to start it only gets 300psi. The only other thing i can think of is hpop, but to go just like that without any trouble before hand has me puzzled.
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I am working on my dads 06 F350. He had four dash lights go out, so we changed out the bulbs and put the dash back together. When we hooked the batteries back up all the gauges reset except the the boost gauge. The needle went way past 0 and bounced for about 2 seconds then it just stayed below 0. We have tried to reset it by unhooking the batteries and turning the ign. switch on and off several times. Always go back past 0 and stays there. It does work it just doesn't read correctly. I am pretty sure that the needle did not get turned on the shaft? Is there a way to reset it?
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I have a 2006 f250 6.0 203,00 miles. At 196,000 miles turbo went out, bought power max turbo, redid head gaskets with studs, had heads shaved flat, replace oil cooler with ford part, egr delete, custom tune, aftermarekt 48 Volt FICM.
Truck ran great until 1 day didn't start. had to let truck cool down and then it stared oil pressure was only going to 350psi. drove home fine, shut it off and wonted start hot. drove it a few times after that just let truck idle. Then it started to crank longer when cold. Replaced dummy plug and stand pipe on drivers side only. Then truck was ok for a few drives then started to get a studer sometimes when idling. It got worse then was getting a misfire cyl 1 then, truck died 1 day turning around and would only build a 200 psi.
Replaced stand pipe and dummy plug on passenger side, and IPR, now getting misfire on cyl 8 and P2284, truck runs like crap, bad idle, rpms weird/gas pedal. idle is higher than it should be. when truck is first started shacks very bad, engine very nosiey. ICP 1046 psi(1.27Volts)Desired 637.9, idle and ipr 14.84, truck idles ok, when u punch gas revs up and comes back down, misfire gets worse with rpm.
Then icp goes to 870(2.23 Volts)Desired 870 and doesn't change when getting on the gas and ipr 32.42, punch it and rpms go up more then come back down. Truck starts to shake again. Could running it for so long with bad oil pressure or to much air wreak the injectors? When cold can shut off injector 7 or 8 doesn't change idle like all others do. Once warm 7 or 8 does make a small change in idle. If i command ipr to 20% idles fine, but icp no change from 32.42% to 20%...
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I bought my truck 2 month ago. I use it for commuting, only short trips now ( 10 min ). After about 2 weeks the Check Engine light came on. The truck is running fine, no problems I believe, starts easy. After another 2 weeks, the CEL disappeared. Another week, and the CEL came back on and it`s there since. I have a code reader, these are the codes and meanings according the manual:
P0299 - Turbocharger "A" underboost condition
P2286 - Injector control pressure sensor circuit high
P2287 - Injector control pressure sensor circuit intermittent
P0299 Pending - same as first but with "pending" status
This is my first diesel and my first turbo charged engine. Is this a common problem? How serious? It`s a bit strange that the error came up before but disappeared. Can that happen just because of the short trips I`m making? I`m planning a long trip soon with towing my trailer, so I want to make sure the truck will not break down during the ride.
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I had new nitto snows put on my truck and low tire pressure light is on.....Checked tire pressure 65 front and 80 back.....Started truck and screen said tms pressure low.....Hit ok and drove around on and off for 2 days now and cant get the light to go out......Is there some way to get the light out or do I have to go to my dealer to have it reset???
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My truck gave me low fuel pressure and reduced pressure limp mode at 21,000 miles. The fuel and air filters were changed at 16,000. The dealer said all they found was the fuel filters (at 21,000) were what needed to be changed. Also, why does my truck hum??
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Purchased 2011 3 weeks ago. Due to not paying attention, put gas in diesel. Had tank dropped and drained but after reassembly, fuel gauge inop. When turn ignition switch on, get normal sweep of all dash gauges but fuel gauge does not read. 2nd tech says sender okay, must be gauge. Dealer ssays if it sweeps, it isn't the gauge. 011 F250 6.7L.....
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I need to install an oil pressure sensor sending unit. I've already occupied the 1/8"NPT test port on the rear of the oil cooler, where else might I be able to tap into oil pressure? (LPOP)
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I bought an Autometer 4763 gauge that didn't come with the correct fittings to plumb the sender into one of the extra ports on the back of the bowl. I went to the Ace hardware store right across the street and they didn't have anything (not surprised) and then Napa. They couldn't find a fitting to match either. He found that the plug threads are 7/16 20 tpi and the sender is 1/8" NPT. He suggested getting a 7/16 20tpi bolt, drilling it rifle-style, and then tapping it for a 1/8" NPT. The alternative, and what I ended up doing, was to use brass fittings to tee it off one of the supply lines to the heads. I ended up going that route but wanted to know if I should have looked harder for the right fitting.
Here's a pic of what I have now. I've test fit it, and it seems to work although I will need to insulate the hard lines because they rub due to the offset.
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