Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2006 - No Start Intermittently / Slightly Low Compression On One Cylinder
Nov 9, 2016
Started having some crank no starts intermittently. Scanned and found codes for cam sensor. so I was in a pinch and a hurry on a sunday so I picked up a BWD brand cam sensor from parts store and installed. I have not seen this issue since but started noticing other thing going on. I noticed a few weeks ago my truck was starting a little strange. as it would spin over before firing off, it didn't sound right. I couldn't pinpoint if it was due to slightly low compression on one cylinder or one cylinder had a little fuel or oil in it and that one cylinder was actually firing while cranking over.
I also was noticing a little longer crank times than normal. didn't matter if engine was cold or hot. sometimes would fire up quick and sometimes it took a few seconds. most of the time I couldn't catch it on my scanegauge if the ICP was low due to the lag on the scangauge.
Well one day on my way home from work (50 miles one way) I stopped about half way to fuel up. after filling up and attempted to restart the truck it really acted like it didn't want to start but did after cranking for about at least 10 seconds and started rough. and of corse my scangauge decied to hate me this day because it would show any data until I unplugged it and plugged it back in. so started home. felt like it had a very very light miss on the way home. when I slowed down to turn onto my road the truck died. took forever to get it to start back up. this time the scangauge was reading and I could see ICP was between 300-400 and IPR was 85%. so low pressure and not reaching the 600 needed to fire. once it started I limped it home. scaned it with my Auto Enginuity and it didn't show any codes.
So that much I can see I have a leak on the HPO system. but I done a lot of work to the truck about 2-3 years ago. roughly 80k-100k miles since the work. what I done included...
OEM oil cooler
OEM (updated)dummy plugs, standpipes & STC fitting
OEM head gaskets and ARP studs
BPD EGR cooler (I should have deleted)
ALL other engine gaskets(Bed plate, oilpan, front&rear cover, ect.)
OEM glow plugs and harness
OEM blue spring upgrade
Cleaned turbo veins
2 OEM REMAN injectors. (cant remember which two) had contribution codes one on each side.
This is all I can remember right now. Now have yall seen the updated dummy plugs and standpipes leak? I have not pulled valve covers to air test the HPO system yet.(don't have my air compressor at my new house yet). Here is what I have done so far:
Fully charged batteries.
I did do a bubble test. pulled upper fuel filter cover off and removed filter topped the bowl off and turned engine over using the wire by the passenger side battery. some bubbles but not a bubble bath.
Checked fuel pressure (not running) its 60psi. did not start truck because I need a different fitting so I can run the truck and check pressure while running.
while doing the bubble test I could hear that one cylinder is low on compression. but I do not have any misfire or contribution codes.
when I ran contribution test on AE its not showing any particular cylinder lower than the rest. but the line is not very solid at all.
Here is what I plan to do.
Compression test on each cylinder.
Looking at the Harbor freight kit. Looks like it has fittings for glow plug and injector holes.
If I can do compression test on both glow plug and injector holes this should show weather my injector orings are the cause of the low compression.
Then I have to airtest the HPO system and find the leak.
Am I on the right track? what else should I check? Guess I should add that the truck currently has 297K miles.
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I bought an 06 6.0 f 350 4x4 dump bed cheap. seller said it was sitting for 1-2 years and wouldn't start. ficm is at 48 volts fuel pressure is at 100 oil pressure builds fine, then checked compression and reading no compression in any cylinder. My mechanic says new motor or possibly both head gaskets are blown.
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I just bought a 2007 6.0 with 239k miles on the truck, it has EGR delete and ARP head studs. When i bought it the owner warned me of injector stiction...
I drove the truck for about a week, changed the oil over to Rotella T6 with archoil, and swapped out the air filter so far. (previously was non synthetic rotella). I drove the truck 2 more times since changing those two items and then i had a no start issue.
Scanguage2 said it was FICM sync.....so i messed with the wire loom, and got it to start twice but it died right away. (it had ficm sync, then it died and went back to 0) So i ordered a CPS pigtail and was going to change it out today.
Today i went out and pushed on the CPS sensor directly, charged both batteries and the truck started rough but kept running after two times (still haven't changed the pig tail)
Now it starts but is still running rough.
Scangauge 2 Running:
IPR : 23.8
ICP : 581
FICM SYC : 1
FMP : 48.5
The only code i'm getting is P0269 which I'm hoping is only injector 3, a bad injector wouldn't cause all this would it?
I'm just trying to figure out what i should look at next.
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I got a deal on a1997 f450 7.3 what does it take to swap to 2001 f250 7.3.mine has a bad cylinder with smoking nd low compression.
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I have a 06 f250 with 135k that I keep getting a #2 contribution code. Power balance shows cylinder 2 low as well. No circuit codes and everything sounds good on a buzz test. Valvetrain is actuating as expected. I changed all 8 injectors w/ motorcraft with no luck. I get over 300 psi on a compression test ( 175 psi on 1st stroke then maxed my gauge on the 2nd). It smokes until I disable cylinder 2 then it pretty much clears up. I did notice I could move the top of the valve stems about 1/16", this seems really sloppy. Very little blow by and the oil cap stays on up side down until it rattles off. Any other 8 deal other than pulling the heads? I just bought this truck and have little history on it.
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It's at 65k miles, was sitting around for half a year with a previous owner. Started with hpo issue that I seem to have resolved with new ipr. I'm also doing injector seals, nipple cups and dummy plugs in the meantime to seal off the system.
I had ran a compression test with a 300psi gauge on a couple cylinders as I was changing glow plugs and harness, and they showed above 350 psi. A couple others showed barely 150, so I figured I blew up the gauge. That's when I went and bought a harbor freight diesel gauge and while I was waiting for the otc adapter whip to come in I took apart the oil rail and was getting ready to do injector seals and nipple cups.
I have now tested all the cylinders with the proper gauge but only to get the same dreadful result low compression ranging from 150-200 and rising 50 only with a bit of oil added to the cylinder.
If I don't have compression I'm obviously not going to get it to start although everything else showed up good on the torque gauges before it was apart. Why I don't have compression on any cylinders? I'm getting a new compression gauge today just in case, but seems unlikely it's the gauge.
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I have a 2006 F-250 4x4 with no cat, and no egr but the valve is still connected. It has about 146,000 miles. Just recently when warm, it has a slight miss every once and a while when stopped and in gear. Just a slight drop in RPM then recovery. Its mainly used on the highway and 99% of the time I set the cruise and its smooth as silk. Every once and a while I feel it stumble once or twice, recover and it is fine for the next 80 miles with no issue. It started as once every few trips but now It seems to be happening at least once every other. I use Motorcraft filters (maybe 6K on the fuel filters) and rotella oil. My scangaugeII shows no codes and no Injector pressure issue (1200-1400 at 75 mph depending on grade) and the FICM voltage stays between 48.5v and 49.0V. What should I check?
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My 2006 F250 has a single alternator and recently the charge light is on intermittently and I have watched output voltage fluctuate between 12.4 to 13.5 ... sometime a .3 volt bounce one way or another for no noticeable reason.
So rather than buy a new alternator, I would like to replace the voltage regulator and put in some new brushes.
What are part numbers that I need to pick up?
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While I had my glow plugs out to crank the motor for the HPOP work I have done I checked the compression on all the cylinders. 6 of the cylinders were 275-280, got 250 and 110 on the others. I put oil in both the low cylinders and the 250 went to 260 and 110 went to 150. I pressurized the low cylinder and with the valves closed it was leaking out the exhaust manifold also had a small amount of coolant come out the water pump. Removed the cylinder head and didn't see anything unusual with the cylinder that was reading low in fact the if was the best looking cylinder of the four with nice looking crosshatch on the cylinder wall.
The other three cylinders has some slight brown haze on them which I assume is rust. This motor probably hasn't run in 18 months and the truck was a non-runner when I purchased as a theft recovery, no history on the truck. Taking the one head to a shop for them to check it out. What's the opinions out there with the low compression? Be ok once it runs and rings get coated with oil? The motor is out of the truck so maybe I should tear it down completely hone and put new rings in it.
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2005 6.0 SuperDuty ... I was driving my truck on the freeway, no issues. Started hearing a very faint ticking sound, then the engine died. Pulled off to the side. tried to start it, and it turned over very rapidly, with no compression. I'm thinking "Timing Gear".
Had it towed to a Ford dealership near the incident. I told them what i thought it may be, and the mechanic thought it "May be possible". not very confidently....
I authorized them to remove the engine, and look. Sure enough, the gears were toast. This is the difficult part.
The service manager is a young kid, (I can tell from talking to him a hundred times on the phone), and is telling me "My Cam(s) are ruined, and the valves are bent, because the metal from the gears went through the motor. I told him to stop. put the truck outside, and wait. So, I have a couple of questions. other than i don't have Cam(s).
1. Is the 6.0 a clearance type motor? (will the valves impact the pistons, if the timing gears fail).
2. Will the metal from the timing gears get into the motor, or fall into the oil pan?
There were no loud noises, when the engine died. I had the engine bullet proofed at 101,000 miles, it now has 250,000. The truck is still solid, so worth fixing?
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I just bought another 2006 model to take some of the strain off my first one with 435,000 miles. This one is a completely stock 250 with 171,000 miles and the previous owner said it would not start when it got hot.
So I started with the air test, had a leak in one of the stand pipes. Fixed it and still a no start while hot.
Pulled turbo and checked if the stc had been replaced. It hadn't so I replaced it. Air pressured checked, all good. But still no start when hot.
The thing that baffles me is if you run it till it gets hot, shut it off and try to restart it will restart each time you try until you let it sit for 2 or 3 minutes and then it will not build over 250 icp psi.
The only code I'm getting is a b1318.
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I noticed a slightly higher RPM at idle (1100-1200) with outside temps in the mid 50's after a 15 mile trip. I dont recall what it usually is, it just seemed to revving higher. What would say normal RPM's are on a warm engine.
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Background: My 06 started up and ran fine until #7 injector took a crap.I had the injectors replaced with 155/stocks from warren.
Well no we're having an issue with a hot no start. Starts and runs just fine cold but once up to temp and you shut her down you can't start it again till it cools. Air tested it 3 different times can't find any leaks. Swapped out the ipr with a new one my mechanic had just to see and no change, unplugged it and no change.
What it could be. When warm and trying to start it only gets 300psi. The only other thing i can think of is hpop, but to go just like that without any trouble before hand has me puzzled.
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I've been having an intermittent problem with a no start condition when hot. It has lately gotten worse to the point that I was dead in the water for about 25 minutes while i had the hood open to allow things to cool off. I closed everything back up hit the key and it jumped to life just like it was new. I've read through the tech folder as well as several other threads regarding no starts but haven't run across anything that is pointing me in any one direction. It cranks over very strong on new interstate batts that are only 6 months old and the SGII shows sync on the FICM and I'm getting a good RPM signal showing about 160-170 cranking RPM.
Good logic power and showing 47.5 to the injectors. I'm running an atlas 40 from Ed in the FICM. I've wiggled wires and done a cursory look but I would think that if there was any chaffing that cooling off wouldn't affect it and it would be dead until fixed. Once it is running I have no problems, never let me down or quit on me while under way. Again, it is intermittent where I'll have 3 weeks or a month of no problem at all and then run into long crank times for another couple of weeks.
I've made no mods to any of the HP oil system and have no leaks that I can see, no consumption between oil changes. I'm in the middle of building a house right now and need the truck to be reliable. I'm pretty good with a wrench if I know what the problem is but I don't know where to start on this. It's an '06 model but an '05 build date on the motor.
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My 2006 F-250 6.0PSD has a new hitch. Tonight it would not start once hot. It cranked and cranked but no start. My scanner showed ICP readings of 366PSI during cranking. Far below the 500PSI needed before the computer will fire the injectors.
So is this the STC fitting at the HPOP that is failing? If so how long will she start cold and drive normal before she leaves me stranded? I have the fittings and new dummy plugs and stand pipes as well. I was waiting to to do this work until I had the money for an new EGR cooler and oil cooler.
I know my oil cooler is failing as my deltas are showing a 15-19 degree spread over my coolant temps.
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It only happens on a very Rare occasion.
When Cold, and when I start out as I open the throttle, it suddenly sounds like there is not a piece of quieting stuff on the engine. I mean its like I can hear right into the engine itself.
I back off, It goes away then I dont hear it again for another Month or two.
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I have a 2006 f250 superduty 6.0. The truck ran fine a week ago and than died as I was going to take it for a drive. I figured out that the fuel pump (air dog system) was not working. I fixed that and primed the pump. The truck still won't start. When it first happened the truck would crank but not start. Now all I hear is the starter but no cranking. Both filters could be replaced. The bowl to the upper is dry when I take the cap off. However fills up when you turn the key on. I'm not sure what else to try and I need to get this truck started.
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This truck is bone stock FYI. I get in it to crank it and I get nothing. Batteries are good, everything in the cluster lights up, and looks normal. No codes are thrown. I can hear the solenoids click under the dash and hood. I check the voltage of ignition cable at the starter and I get no reading.
There is a single thick yellow with light blue stripe coloured wire on the passenger side of the engine compartment, beside the vacuum pump with a "squeeze and pull" type disconnect. Disconnect it, and connect the male half of the connector to the passenger side battery positive terminal. Do this with the ignition key in the RUN position. Does the truck start?
This is where it gets weird. The truck does start and after i reconnect the wire it it starts normal. I started it several times throughout the day. The next morning I get in the truck. No start. I have to use the wire and manually connect it to the battery and it starts right up again. This time I get a "Tow/Haul" light blinking on the dash. It will go into gear but pressing the acceleration pedal does nothing. I turn it back off, attempt to start it normally and it starts right up. No it will go into gear and drive. Now I am thinking maybe the neutral safety switch?
Could it be a solenoid sticking or the neutral safety switch or something else entirely?
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I have a 2006 Ford F-250 6.0 powerstroke with 100,000 miles and it puts out a puff of smoke at cold start up every time and also when I run it then park it for maybe 1 1 1/2 and it puts out a puff and also I noticed when I get to work with is about a 20 minute drive I get there around 8 then leave at 5 I noticed it puts out a puff then if I watch the exhaust I can see a slight haze but I figured it's just condensation.
Here's the list of stuff I have put on the truck... Oringed heads by librator performance, with oem gaskets every thing, arps head studs, egr delete, airdog 2 fuel system,mtw stage 2 turbo, bulletproof ficm,coolant filter, banks intake, fuel pressure set at 68 and fuel regulator return.
Here's a list off parts I put on trying to fix the smoke I put in 5 injectors because the ford ids had a slight change and after that it was straight line I put in hpop and turbo drain pipe and I tested the ficm and its 48 with the key on and cranking and running...
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06 6.0 f250, I went out of town for 2 weeks came back home and went to jump in my truck and it seemed like it almost started but didn't then slowly each time I tried it seemed like the battery was draining down. Is this just from it sitting for so long without cranking or is it something else my scangauge says I'm getting 11.5 volts. Do I need to just jump it off or get a whole new battery. Or is it another issue?
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Just replaced injector 4, oil cooler and did egr delete. Ficm is at 48 and truck will not kick over. New batteries installed.
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