Ok the icp .hpop.ipop.crank ps and ficm is all good but still no start. I've sprayed alittle starting fluid and still don't start idk what else to do this truck is driving me up the wall it's been down for 2 weeks.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2003 f350 6.0. awhile back i was driving down the road and it died. popped the hood and there was a small amount of oil sprayed on the hood. rocker arm bolt had broke. that's been replaced and no it won't start. cranks and acts like it will what to fire for a second then it just cranks and does nothing. reading the tech on no start issues theres a lot to look at.
View 6 Replies1993 ford ranger 4 CLY 2 WD getting spark gas to injectors will only start when fluid is sprayed in air intake. have replaced fuel pu,p. fuel filter air intake regulator. ran okay till ran out of gas.
View 2 RepliesCar stopped running when I spray started fluid it starts up so I changed the Fuel pump and it still not starting?
View 1 RepliesIf it can go wrong, it seems like it does.... Washer fluid is not pumping. The other day I am almost sure I heard the pump running but no fluid came out. Yesterday I filled the reservoir and now I don't even hear the pump. It's been very cold so I thought maybe the fluid had frozen? I can't find the fuse listed for the washer fluid pump and was going to check that first. Where is the pump even located? 2006 F350
View 6 RepliesI am a new owner of a 2006 F 250 6.0.
I need to install a new washer fluid pump. My question is what is the best way to get the old one off and the new one on? Should I go from under the wheel well? Or is there another easier way to get to it? The truck didn't come with an owners Manuel and I cant find anything about how to do this.
2004 6.0 Diesel. First the truck would die after starting, then start up again after a minute. Then the truck wouldn't start at all.
Trouble codes indicated low voltage on all injectors leading me to conclude a dead FICM. Replaced the power module in the FICM and reinstalled, but still no start.
48V at driver's side screw under the cover. 12V at the next screw, the next appears to be ground. The passenger side screw is 0V. One post indicated that should also be 48V - is the true?
I probed the power coming in - logic fuse is good. 50A fuse in the cab is good. Relay seems good.
The Ford FICM diagnostic indicates 12V power should be coming in on FICM connector X3 on pins 7, 8, 4, 23, 24, 25. I have 12V only on pins 7, 9, and 27. When I pull the relay I lose power on pin 27.
I have a 2006 F350 with around 208k mikes, automatic with a no start, 0 No FICM Sync.
The CMP and CKP has "no / 0" for synchronization and a "NO" synchronization from the FICM. Should this be "yes / 1" when trying to start?
The camshaft position sensor status indicated "yes fault".
FICM is at 48V,
DTC currently on
P2614 camshaft position signal output/open circuit - CMP
Glow plug circuit cylinder 2, 4, 5, 6 (these have been on for 12months and 1,000 miles and never had an issue starting)
B1352 - left front temperature damper motor
B1360 - left rear temperature damper motor
U1900 - CAN - communication BUS fault
I am running all OEM filters
I just bought another 2006 model to take some of the strain off my first one with 435,000 miles. This one is a completely stock 250 with 171,000 miles and the previous owner said it would not start when it got hot.
So I started with the air test, had a leak in one of the stand pipes. Fixed it and still a no start while hot.
Pulled turbo and checked if the stc had been replaced. It hadn't so I replaced it. Air pressured checked, all good. But still no start when hot.
The thing that baffles me is if you run it till it gets hot, shut it off and try to restart it will restart each time you try until you let it sit for 2 or 3 minutes and then it will not build over 250 icp psi.
The only code I'm getting is a b1318.
Background: My 06 started up and ran fine until #7 injector took a crap.I had the injectors replaced with 155/stocks from warren.
Well no we're having an issue with a hot no start. Starts and runs just fine cold but once up to temp and you shut her down you can't start it again till it cools. Air tested it 3 different times can't find any leaks. Swapped out the ipr with a new one my mechanic had just to see and no change, unplugged it and no change.
What it could be. When warm and trying to start it only gets 300psi. The only other thing i can think of is hpop, but to go just like that without any trouble before hand has me puzzled.
I've been having an intermittent problem with a no start condition when hot. It has lately gotten worse to the point that I was dead in the water for about 25 minutes while i had the hood open to allow things to cool off. I closed everything back up hit the key and it jumped to life just like it was new. I've read through the tech folder as well as several other threads regarding no starts but haven't run across anything that is pointing me in any one direction. It cranks over very strong on new interstate batts that are only 6 months old and the SGII shows sync on the FICM and I'm getting a good RPM signal showing about 160-170 cranking RPM.
Good logic power and showing 47.5 to the injectors. I'm running an atlas 40 from Ed in the FICM. I've wiggled wires and done a cursory look but I would think that if there was any chaffing that cooling off wouldn't affect it and it would be dead until fixed. Once it is running I have no problems, never let me down or quit on me while under way. Again, it is intermittent where I'll have 3 weeks or a month of no problem at all and then run into long crank times for another couple of weeks.
I've made no mods to any of the HP oil system and have no leaks that I can see, no consumption between oil changes. I'm in the middle of building a house right now and need the truck to be reliable. I'm pretty good with a wrench if I know what the problem is but I don't know where to start on this. It's an '06 model but an '05 build date on the motor.
My 2006 F-250 6.0PSD has a new hitch. Tonight it would not start once hot. It cranked and cranked but no start. My scanner showed ICP readings of 366PSI during cranking. Far below the 500PSI needed before the computer will fire the injectors.
So is this the STC fitting at the HPOP that is failing? If so how long will she start cold and drive normal before she leaves me stranded? I have the fittings and new dummy plugs and stand pipes as well. I was waiting to to do this work until I had the money for an new EGR cooler and oil cooler.
I know my oil cooler is failing as my deltas are showing a 15-19 degree spread over my coolant temps.
I've topped up the DEF and the warning is still showing that I'll have reduced engine power within 45kms.
Its weird, just yesterday it showed 550kms to empty so I added one full container, all day it kept showing less and less kms' til empty. Warning lights and bells etc.
This evening topped it completely and still shows. Is there a way to reset it without having to stop at the service dept.
I have a 2006 f250 superduty 6.0. The truck ran fine a week ago and than died as I was going to take it for a drive. I figured out that the fuel pump (air dog system) was not working. I fixed that and primed the pump. The truck still won't start. When it first happened the truck would crank but not start. Now all I hear is the starter but no cranking. Both filters could be replaced. The bowl to the upper is dry when I take the cap off. However fills up when you turn the key on. I'm not sure what else to try and I need to get this truck started.
View 3 RepliesThis truck is bone stock FYI. I get in it to crank it and I get nothing. Batteries are good, everything in the cluster lights up, and looks normal. No codes are thrown. I can hear the solenoids click under the dash and hood. I check the voltage of ignition cable at the starter and I get no reading.
There is a single thick yellow with light blue stripe coloured wire on the passenger side of the engine compartment, beside the vacuum pump with a "squeeze and pull" type disconnect. Disconnect it, and connect the male half of the connector to the passenger side battery positive terminal. Do this with the ignition key in the RUN position. Does the truck start?
This is where it gets weird. The truck does start and after i reconnect the wire it it starts normal. I started it several times throughout the day. The next morning I get in the truck. No start. I have to use the wire and manually connect it to the battery and it starts right up again. This time I get a "Tow/Haul" light blinking on the dash. It will go into gear but pressing the acceleration pedal does nothing. I turn it back off, attempt to start it normally and it starts right up. No it will go into gear and drive. Now I am thinking maybe the neutral safety switch?
Could it be a solenoid sticking or the neutral safety switch or something else entirely?
I have a 2006 Ford F-250 6.0 powerstroke with 100,000 miles and it puts out a puff of smoke at cold start up every time and also when I run it then park it for maybe 1 1 1/2 and it puts out a puff and also I noticed when I get to work with is about a 20 minute drive I get there around 8 then leave at 5 I noticed it puts out a puff then if I watch the exhaust I can see a slight haze but I figured it's just condensation.
Here's the list of stuff I have put on the truck... Oringed heads by librator performance, with oem gaskets every thing, arps head studs, egr delete, airdog 2 fuel system,mtw stage 2 turbo, bulletproof ficm,coolant filter, banks intake, fuel pressure set at 68 and fuel regulator return.
Here's a list off parts I put on trying to fix the smoke I put in 5 injectors because the ford ids had a slight change and after that it was straight line I put in hpop and turbo drain pipe and I tested the ficm and its 48 with the key on and cranking and running...
06 6.0 f250, I went out of town for 2 weeks came back home and went to jump in my truck and it seemed like it almost started but didn't then slowly each time I tried it seemed like the battery was draining down. Is this just from it sitting for so long without cranking or is it something else my scangauge says I'm getting 11.5 volts. Do I need to just jump it off or get a whole new battery. Or is it another issue?
View 2 RepliesJust replaced injector 4, oil cooler and did egr delete. Ficm is at 48 and truck will not kick over. New batteries installed.
View 14 Replies176,000 miles. Replaced heads and oil cooler approx 25,000 miles ago. Haven't had a lick of engine problems until today. Just got my '06 out of the shop getting new brakes and rear wheel bearings today. Drove to the store to grab something for dinner and it wouldn't start.
Checked my scangauge and only getting 350lbs HPO.
I have a 2006 F250 6.0 with 218xxx on it. Have had a ton of issues since day one, but I finally thought I had gotten a handle on all of them until the other day. Truck started sounding a little rough, no noticeable effect on performance, no codes on my Edge CTS (except one random CKP sensor code that went away). Was leaving work later that day to go home and it started up fine.
Got about a 1/4 mile from the shop and went to turn onto a busier road so I put into the pedal a little bit. Truck immediately lost power. Sounded like a turbo boot blowing and I had very little throttle response. Immediately pulled over and checked codes with truck still on, nothing. Got out and popped the hood with the truck still idling to check for CAC tube/boot etc. As I was looking at it, the engine started screeching. I shut it off as quick as I could get back to the cab.
Looked over everything, nothing noticeably wrong. Went to crank it to see what it would do. All i got was a noise from the starter engaging. Belt not turning over. Tried unplugging the fan clutch (read a thread with similar symptoms and that was the issue for them), connected the starter solenoid directly to battery, same issue. Removed belt and attempted to crank. Same thing. Removed all glow plugs to check for hydrolock. Motor slowly would turn with belt still removed and no glowplugs. Removed starter and tested outside of vehicle, solenoid and motor both seem to be ok.
So my 06 6.0 4x4 is just about to break 200,000km and I've done most of the upgrades and work myself. (All the updates are in my Sig). My problem is that when I'm cruising and the engine is at full operating temp, if Im bellow 80-100km/h nothing but as soon as I break into that speed range about 2000rpm the truck will start to shudder. Almost feels like its not firing properly is the best way to describe it. Why this could be happening or causing it?
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