Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2006 - How To Remove Instrument Cluster
Oct 27, 2011
I've been searching for instructions/procedure on how to remove the instrument cluster on my 2006 6.0 Superduty. My odometer has been showing the classic signs of a cold solder joint, cutting in and out constantly. It's been doing this for a couple of years, and I've taken it to the dealership, since it's still under warranty, however they were not able to find the problem since they were not able to witness the lighting go off and on. I figured I'd just do it myself and not even bother with the dealership if I don't have to. I've read the threads on how to fix the issue, however, everything I've found is for 2004 or older models. Are there any threads specific to the 2006? Or, is the instrument cluster on the 2006 the same as another year model? Maybe I can find this info. there.
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Got in my 06 F350 dually 2 weeks ago and after start up had no instrument indications. Truck ran great, flat line on panel. Tow haul light out also. Drove it for appx 5 miles, shazam all start working and then they cycled on and off for a while. After 10 miles, came on solid. Happened again at a later date.
Here's what I discovered. I noticed high voltage on my Scangage II. As in 16.2VDC. Monitored it coming back from a hunt. 14.9-15.5VDC. Would blank out only after hitting 16.2VDC. I'm suspecting there might be a cutout to protect the instrument cluster from damage.
Installed a new alternator on Friday the 13th. Drove home this weekend, 4 hours and no problems. Hopefully didn't boil off the batteries. Now 13.5-13.9VDC ... Just something to be aware of!!
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My 06 instrument cluster has a few bulbs that are out. I have seen the video on how to remove and send off to be repaired but have not seen any thing on how to replace bulbs. Is this something that I can do myself? Is there "kit" to replace all the bulbs? Where can I get the bulbs? Here is a pic of my panel.....
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Is there one fuse for the entire instrument cluster? Because today the entire instrument cluster went dead, even the digital odometer part. Hoping it is just a simple blown fuse...
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I have a 2013 F250 with 49.575 miles and Saturday the truck left me stranded. I was towing my small trailer and doing about 45 mph.....When just out of nowhere .....I got every possible warning come across my display and none of my instruments were working. That included speedo,tach,boost....even the radio and ac were effected in some way. So after a few miles I was able to pull over ....cut the truck off and it wouldn't start.... So I had Ford roadside service tow it to my home dealership.
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So, went to drive the truck (2004 F250 6.0, 145000 mi) yesterday and the right half of my instrument cluster was not working (tach, trans temp and water temp), CEL and check gauges lights on. My scan gauges gives me readouts of all 3, so I know the computer knows the right values. Pulled all three fuses related to the cluster, all looked good. All gauges, including those not working, did full sweeps with key on after putting fuses back, so I know they function. Also, the glow plug light stays on way longer than normal.
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My right side of my instrument cluster is not working. the Tachometer, Engine Temp and Trans Temp gauge are non responsive, and the CEL and Check gauge light is on. I have seen other posts with people that had the same problem but no solution to what fixed the problem. 2004 F250 Lariat.
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I was installing a brake controller and repair wiring at the seven pin today for a customer and noticed when I began work I have no power windows, power seats, or instrumentation on the dash. Truck otherwise runs fine.
Got wiring for the brake controller straightened out and thought I could get the other stuff working, but I went through all the fuses and could find nothing amiss. Several comments on the Internet about a power saver relay board built into the back of the instrument cluster. Does that fit these symptoms?
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Just wondering how to remove instrument cluster?
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I am currently converting a 1999 E350 7.3 diesel bus into a camper to live in. The bus has already had a lot of weird custom work. Done by someone else and a lot of the interior torn out and extra insulation put in. There is an exposed electrical panel behind the drivers seat. It was a cheap buy, previously fleet maintained with only 120k.
I was hooking up a battery for accessories to a terminal labeled "Battery" that does run indeed directly to the + terminal of the battery in the engine compartment.
Unfortunately I mistakenly connected the accessory battery to a terminal labeled "ignition" that runs to behind the dash. When I tried starting the vehicle off the auxiliary battery for a test everything went out for 2 seconds, I heard a click from the engine compartment, and everything than came back on. This is when I realized my mistake.
It used to be the speedo only didn't work (which I assumed was the step motor), now after this mistake all the gauges, the odometer and the buzzers don't work. Lights like the battery and airbag warning indicator still function.
Checked fuse 2 (15 amp) for the instrument cluster and it is intact. Actually checked every fuse in the vehicle in both fuse panels and all are intact. The radio works though and the vehicle is not equipped with power windows.
Going to go get a radio removal tool to take apart the dash and get back there. What this could be? Did I fry a relay? Did I fry the cluster circuit board.
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I just bought this 2006 f350 lariat. The instrument cluster, radio, pwr windows (and prob other things) will go dead intermittently. No rime or reason, some days no prob, others, several time a day. Always come back by itself, cycling the power has no effect. I if it is shut down during a no power episode it will not run right till the power comes back to the dash, radio, windows. Looking on line seems to be a common problem with the "retained power accessory relay" circuit in the instrument cluster. I found nothing on a DIY fix...
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My 2006 F150 instrument cluster, including the radio, will randomly go out while driving (although the LED display on the radio will come on if the menu button is pressed indicating that there is power). Everything will come back on within a few seconds to a few minutes. You can get everything to come back on immediately by pressing the odometer reset button. If power is being lost, why does the odometer reset button correct the issue?
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Do the gauge cluster out of one super Duty will work in another truck, just plug and play? I have a 2015 550 that the fuel gauge has quit, which is causing the truck to go into limp mode because it will not allow a regen on the DPF. This is a business truck and i need it to be rolling. There appears to be a national back order on gauge clusters from Ford. I have another truck in the fleet that I could do without so I was wondering if I could just swap the clusters would it work?
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I have a 2012 F350 XLT that came out of Canada. So of course the speedometer is in KM. (Large numbers are km and smaller numbers are mph). I am trying to find out if I can simply change out my cluster with a mph cluster???
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My 2005 is doing strange things. The fuel gauge is always incorrect. I have done the following:
1. Replaced fuel level sensor.
2. Inspected and tested wiring from the firewall to the tank.
There are no codes present and the fuel % listed in torque is always correct. The gauge sometimes reads 1/2 above full, nearly all of the time it's above the 3/4 tank mark. I have an android head unit that I am using to gauge fuel level right now. I believe the cluster is bad.
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I have a 2012 Ford F 450 turbo diesel dual wheel truck,my problem is an engine light came up on the instrument panel so i hooked up my scangauge and found the code P20BA I went further into the diagnostics of the scangauge and found nothing,i cleared the code and drove down the road and the light came back on could the sensor be faulty and if so does any body know where the sensor is located.
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My Escape is starting to have starting problems. I go to start it and all of the instrument cluster warning lights come on, but the truck doesn't start. If I wait a little while, all of the sudden it starts but all of the sudden the cluster lights start flashing, the various warning beeps sound off, the emergency flashers go off, etc. This lasts anywhere from 5 to 10 minutes until everything resets and goes back to normal. What is causing this?
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I'm replacing my water pump and was wondering how to remove this.
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After all this time there's only a couple things about my 2012 6.7 I don't like, and one of them is the DEF system. I like the lack of smoke, and I REALLY like my warranty, but I don't like the acrid DEF exhaust smell and I don't like the amount of DEF fluid I'm going through.
So, looking for a kit to remove the DEF system but leave the truck otherwise untouched? I'd like to keep the DPF and not have to tune the truck, just eliminate the DEF and smell diesel fumes again.
I'm guessing this is a long shot given the amount of computer control of every aspect of the truck, but figured I'd ask anyway...
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Is there an easy How To write up on how to remove the front grill? I want to install some grill inserts I picked up.
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I was driving my vehicle and turned a corner and the vehicle completely died. No illuminated instrument panel, power windows, radio, turn indicators, HVAC not working. Turned ignition key off and back on and blank instrument panel no information. The vehicle does not crank.
All components which do not require the ignition key turned on work fine; IE headlights (low and high beams; they are bright), emergency flashers, power mirror, power seats, brake pedal adjust, door locks (remote and from the door panel), horn, and interior lights to name a few.
Is there a relay which the ignition switch activates to provide power for all components tied to the ignition switch? If so where is it located.
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