Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2006 - Hesitates Intermittently - Stumble At Idle?
Nov 2, 2015
I have a 2006 F-250 4x4 with no cat, and no egr but the valve is still connected. It has about 146,000 miles. Just recently when warm, it has a slight miss every once and a while when stopped and in gear. Just a slight drop in RPM then recovery. Its mainly used on the highway and 99% of the time I set the cruise and its smooth as silk. Every once and a while I feel it stumble once or twice, recover and it is fine for the next 80 miles with no issue. It started as once every few trips but now It seems to be happening at least once every other. I use Motorcraft filters (maybe 6K on the fuel filters) and rotella oil. My scangaugeII shows no codes and no Injector pressure issue (1200-1400 at 75 mph depending on grade) and the FICM voltage stays between 48.5v and 49.0V. What should I check?
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I have a 2004 f350 6.0 it has 73000 miles on it. I've had the truck for about a month and its developed a slight stumble, hesitation. It does it during idle and acceleration, if I give it more throttle it smooths out. The cel is not on and there are no stored codes.It did this a few days after i bought it,i noticed the map sensor was broke in half so i replaced that and it smoothed out.But it came back. Exhaust is clean no white or black smoke at all.
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I have a 2005 F-350 Lariat, FX4, CrewCab, with an 8ft Bed if any of that matters. Currently sitting at 191,000 miles and 4,500 Engine Hours I just started running into some issues that I cannot figure out. To start with here is a list of all the mods and prior maintenance that I've done to my truck over that last 6+ years that I've owned it.
I purchased the truck in 2010 and had no issues whatsoever for the first 3 years.....then it all started. While pulling a camper home from vacation "still bone stock" the truck overheated and by the time I realized it it was to late. I ended up blowing a head gasket cracking a head and blowing a hole in my coolant reservoir from the heat & compression of the engine in the coolant system. So to the shop it went.
All of this was done at the same time at just under 4,000 engine hours:
1) Both heads were sent out to be pressure tested "which is where the crack was found", so 1 replacement head and the other trued up and tested by the machine shop
2) All 8 injectors replaced with Airtex/Wells New/Reman
3) ARP Head Studs
4) BPD EGR Cooler
5) New Stock Coolant Reservoir
6) New Stock Oil Cooler
7) Motorcraft Coolant & Oil/Oil Filter Change
8) New Serpentine Belt
After getting the truck back I installed some upgrades that I had wanted but didn't want to do until I had head studs. 4" Turbo back Diamond Eye Performance exhaust, Bully Dog GT Tuner with an EGT Pyro, coolant changed to Caterpillar ELC, Sinister Diesel coolant filtration system, new Optima batteries "I hated them",
Forward a year with no problems I had a crank but no start. I ended up having a bad IPR. A buddy rebuilt the turbo since I had it out and it was leaking. He apparently did something wrong because it took its own life sometime after. So a brand new stock Garrett Turbo with a Wicked Wheel 2 & I changed the IPR "don't remember the brand." Also replaced the factory paper air filter with a cleanable one from AFE that fits in the factory cold air intake.
Little more time and I started to have some overheating issues again, luckily the Bully Dog was monitoring and I had alerts set up so I caught it way before it caused any serious damage. Turned out the fan clutch wasn't working. So I replaced the Water Pump with one from dieselsite.com that has a steel impeller, also replaced the computer controlled fan clutch with a 7.3L mechanical fan clutch and an adapter from BPD.
After that the batteries I hated were replaced. I installed Oddssey Extreme 950CCA ones, a new 185A alternator from FICMRepair.com as well as the complete battery wiring interconnect kit. Did the blue spring upgrade. Replaced my FICM with the BPD 6 phase at 54V setting. Also I changed my starter to an 6.4L Ultima one from O'Reily Auto to bring me up from that slow crank of the 6.0L at about 150RPM to the 225RPM of the 6.4L.
So now on to the current issue. This has happened in the last month and may be related to the issue. I had some small coolant leaks and wanted them fixed. Pressure tested the system & found the radiator and timing cover gasket leaking. I installed a new stock radiator and lower radiator hose. Had the shop do the gasket and a serpentine belt due to cleaners being all over it. During replacement of the timing cover gasket my mechanic found that the LPOP gears had some damage as if something had be in there at one time. Not sever damage just minor. LPOP replaced with brand new one from Ford.
After I got the truck back it was fine for 2 weeks, no leaks or any problems whatsoever. Then I noticed a hesitation as I was leaving work at idle. You could see the RPM's moving up and down by about 50 as it sat there at idle. It got really bad and eventually stalled on me. It fired right back up and ran fine after. I was thinking water in the fuel or just maybe old fuel because it was kinda old and I was at 1/4 of a tank. I went and filled up and it ran great all the way home. Day or so later same thing. At idle you can see the RPM fluctuating and while driving it feels like it has no power at times then it goes away and runs fine. So I changed both fuel filter with Motorcraft ones and put in a new oil filter. It is the Wix brand but I've be running it for years with no issues, one was also in it way before this issues started. The oil has about 2,000 miles on it currently. I verified fuel pressure at idle to be at 70PSI. I tried unplugging the ICP at idle with no change in the hesitation. So I plugged in my SG2 and started to see if I could see anything out of the ordinary.
OAT - 60 Degrees F
KOEO Engine Cold - FMP - 54.5V, ICV - 0.25V, ICP - 0, IPR - 14.9
KOER Engine Warm - FMP - 54.5V, ICV - 0.82V, ICP - 576, IPR - 23.5
Cruise at 40MPH - FMP - 54.5V, ICV - 1.14V, ICP - 965, IPR - 32.9
Cruise at 50MPH - FMP - 54.5V, ICV - 1.42V, ICP - 1,190, IPR - 38.0
Cruise at 60MPH - FMP - 54.5V, ICV - 1.27V, ICP - 1,143, IPR - 37.2
While driving this issue comes and goes very randomly. The only parameter I notice changing alot is the IPR. It jumps around a lot and sometimes it will go to 85. I know that this isn't a good thing so I am going to change the IPR later today or tomorrow. I already had a brand new Motorcraft one to put in, plus at the very least I want to look at the screen. I had read somewhere that there could be air in the oil system and that if you run at a high RPM it can remove this air. I never seen any bubbles or anything on the dipstick. My brother ran the truck for me at 3,000RPM for 5 minutes. No hesitation during the test but he didn't have the SG2 plugged in so I don't know the parameters during the test. I thought that it worked but then it came back after a few miles of driving. The above parameters are from this mornings drive home from work.
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First... Items I have replaced:
- New EGR valve
- New sensor
- New Fuel filters
- New Oil filter
Problem:
While driving I have a stumble along with a small amount of black smoke at this time ( was white/bluish smoke ) previous. I have dis-connected the batteries to force the computer to relearn the EGR valve. The turbo spools up .. getting about 20 psi @ hard throttle and then about 5 psi after it goes into the final drive gear. Speaking of which ... the stumble is always worst on the final drive gear...
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I have a 2006 f250 with a 6.0 and I am having some issues with a hesitation and lose of power. The hesitation is worse when under load and other times is not so bad. Also it is non existent at higher RPMs (2500 and up). I changed the egr valve 2 months ago and it seemed to fix the issue (95%) but now it is running bad again. I used Hot Shot oil additive 2,500 miles ago and I changed the fuel filters and changed to 5w 40 Rotella synthetic oil, nothing has changed. I had the FICM changed a year ago with new software updates, still didn't fix it 100%.
Now I am having a "hard" start issue. It takes a bit for the truck to turn over. My batteries are 12 months old and I just replaced the alternator so I am not sure how to proceed.
I did just buy a Scangauge II and I am still figuring out how to use it. It says there is no codes.
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I completed the high idle mod on my '05 Excursion 6.0 a few months ago. The 12V source is the blue/white wire that up/right of the ODBII connector outlined in the high-idle mod how-to.
For some reason, every couple of weeks, the 10-amp mini fuse at #29 will blow. It will work well for several weeks - then randomly pop the fuse about once a month.
Not sure if maybe I should swap out the switch I'm using to toggle the high idle, or maybe if an increase in the fuse amperage is required...or something else?
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So my truck is intermittently running rough at idle for the most part and sometimes slightly loses a little power while driving down the roads. Seems to run worse as it warms up. When it runs rough it sounds like a cylinder is missing. The truck is throwing code P0269 for Cylinder 3 Contribution/Balance. Smoking isn't horrible coming out of exhaust but it's there and it comes out at a constant rate. The injector has been replaced by the previous owner recently. It has an egr delete, new turbo, ficm, ficm harness, HPOP, and stand pipes.
When I put the starter solenoid wire to the battery you can hear the engine skip. I did a compression test on cylinder 3, put oil in the cylinder and did the test again to find that I still didn't have compression. Assuming that this was an issue in the head I had my doubts that it was a bent valve and it could have been a bent pushrod.
Sure enough I found the intake pushrod for cylinder 3 was bent slightly so I replaced the pushrod. I started the truck again and seemed fine at first but just like before it started to run worse as it warmed up.
I was able to drive it to the gas station real quick to fill it up on fuel and drove back home which is a short drive, but the truck was running worse and worse and it eventually died on me. I attempted to start and had to jump start from my other truck and the 6.0 would not start. I ended up frying the starter trying to start it so I'm taking a break from it for now.... Ended up pushing the truck home.
The only thing I can figure is that I don't have oil pressure in the oil rail which is why it died but I don't understand why the truck still ran rough and pulled up with the same P0269 code....
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Started having some crank no starts intermittently. Scanned and found codes for cam sensor. so I was in a pinch and a hurry on a sunday so I picked up a BWD brand cam sensor from parts store and installed. I have not seen this issue since but started noticing other thing going on. I noticed a few weeks ago my truck was starting a little strange. as it would spin over before firing off, it didn't sound right. I couldn't pinpoint if it was due to slightly low compression on one cylinder or one cylinder had a little fuel or oil in it and that one cylinder was actually firing while cranking over.
I also was noticing a little longer crank times than normal. didn't matter if engine was cold or hot. sometimes would fire up quick and sometimes it took a few seconds. most of the time I couldn't catch it on my scanegauge if the ICP was low due to the lag on the scangauge.
Well one day on my way home from work (50 miles one way) I stopped about half way to fuel up. after filling up and attempted to restart the truck it really acted like it didn't want to start but did after cranking for about at least 10 seconds and started rough. and of corse my scangauge decied to hate me this day because it would show any data until I unplugged it and plugged it back in. so started home. felt like it had a very very light miss on the way home. when I slowed down to turn onto my road the truck died. took forever to get it to start back up. this time the scangauge was reading and I could see ICP was between 300-400 and IPR was 85%. so low pressure and not reaching the 600 needed to fire. once it started I limped it home. scaned it with my Auto Enginuity and it didn't show any codes.
So that much I can see I have a leak on the HPO system. but I done a lot of work to the truck about 2-3 years ago. roughly 80k-100k miles since the work. what I done included...
OEM oil cooler
OEM (updated)dummy plugs, standpipes & STC fitting
OEM head gaskets and ARP studs
BPD EGR cooler (I should have deleted)
ALL other engine gaskets(Bed plate, oilpan, front&rear cover, ect.)
OEM glow plugs and harness
OEM blue spring upgrade
Cleaned turbo veins
2 OEM REMAN injectors. (cant remember which two) had contribution codes one on each side.
This is all I can remember right now. Now have yall seen the updated dummy plugs and standpipes leak? I have not pulled valve covers to air test the HPO system yet.(don't have my air compressor at my new house yet). Here is what I have done so far:
Fully charged batteries.
I did do a bubble test. pulled upper fuel filter cover off and removed filter topped the bowl off and turned engine over using the wire by the passenger side battery. some bubbles but not a bubble bath.
Checked fuel pressure (not running) its 60psi. did not start truck because I need a different fitting so I can run the truck and check pressure while running.
while doing the bubble test I could hear that one cylinder is low on compression. but I do not have any misfire or contribution codes.
when I ran contribution test on AE its not showing any particular cylinder lower than the rest. but the line is not very solid at all.
Here is what I plan to do.
Compression test on each cylinder.
Looking at the Harbor freight kit. Looks like it has fittings for glow plug and injector holes.
If I can do compression test on both glow plug and injector holes this should show weather my injector orings are the cause of the low compression.
Then I have to airtest the HPO system and find the leak.
Am I on the right track? what else should I check? Guess I should add that the truck currently has 297K miles.
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My 2006 F250 has a single alternator and recently the charge light is on intermittently and I have watched output voltage fluctuate between 12.4 to 13.5 ... sometime a .3 volt bounce one way or another for no noticeable reason.
So rather than buy a new alternator, I would like to replace the voltage regulator and put in some new brushes.
What are part numbers that I need to pick up?
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I just bought a 2004 F350 6.0 cclb 6 speed with 260k on it. The previous owner seemed to have taken good care of the truck. It is basically stock with the exception of the blue spring mod, and a sinister diesel coolant filter. Anyways, I brought the truck home and it ran great. Now I have an issue that needs to be addressed.
The issue: I am experiencing a intermittent loss of power, stall, or stumble when engine is cold. After sitting all night the truck will start fine and idle fine. But when I try to accelerate and bring engine RPM up the engine will stumble and lose all throttle response, when this happens the WTS and WIF light flash. Sometimes it just stumbles, sometimes the truck will actually die and then restart. The issue seems to go away after the engine has reached operating temp.
I did some research on the issue and it seems there is actually a TSB out from ford for this issue. It explains that some 2003-2004 6.0's might have wiring harness chaffing issues. This is what the issue I am having seems like to me (shorting harness). I looked up codes on the truck and there is an active code (#8 glow plug circuit fault). I did a short visual inspection of harness and didn't see anything out of the ordinary. But i wonder if it would be worth changing both sides of the glow plug harness?
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So from what I have gathered online, it is an injector(s) issue. I've only had it happen to me twice at that speed but when I came to a stop afterward, my truck was barely idling.
I'm not sure if my sct programmer is able to show injector codes but it will show gp codes. I guess my question is are failing injectors that intermittent typically? Also, much luck with Rev X clearing that issue up?
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I've mentioned in earlier posts that my speedometer has been swinging around wildly off and on, and that on two occasions this has been coupled with a momentary engine stumble. This morning on the way to work it was doing it again but this time the engine stumble happened several times as well. I plan to check the speed sensor, but I wonder how this is also causing the engine stumble?
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I have experienced a hesitation on my truck since I purchased it 6 months ago. I get a one to two second hesitation at take off from a stop. I have checked the back pressure tube and the one that goes to the turbo controller no problems. I have a Edge CTS programmer that only shows ... for EBP.
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I have a 2001 f350 4x4 edge programmer 330k miles. I bought it not running right and thought it would be a easy fix. I'm fairly knowledgeable with the 7.3. Original symptoms where it would run for 5-10 minutes lose power and quit. No restart until it sat for a few hours. P1211 was code, so I figure it's a high pressure oil problem. The truck has a new icp, Ipr, fuel pump, a receipt from dealer where they replaced 1 injectors o ring. I figure the o rings where bad. I replaced all of them.
1 injector was pretty bad the o ring was kinda tore up and disfigured, and 1 had new o rings. Why they would just replace 1 I'll never know. Well the problem still exists, it starts fine sounds good. It will idle 20-30 minutes then get sluggish if I give it any fuel. It's a lot better than before I can floor it and it will rev up and after a few revs it gets better again. If I unplug the icp the idle will go up and down and almost die. Trying to start warm it will just barely run at 4-500 rpm then quit unless I can get it to rev. Once it revs up it seems ok. Does that sound like a hpop problem or am I even on. The right path?
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07 6L gave me a fit the other morning. I spent the night in the mountains Saturday night. Sunday morning was -5. With no place to plug in the block heater. When I started it it bucked and hawed and didn't want to run... It keep surging for a while and finally smoothed out after about 3 mins... Is there an additive that will work for this for the times there is no place to plug in? Oil additive or fuel additive?
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I have a 2014 F250 with the 3.55 rear end and 6500 miles and since new it has a hesitation from a dead stop that I cannot determine if it is normal or not. I took it into a dealer that specializes in diesels and they drove it and told me it is normal. Every time I see someone with the 6.7 I ask them if they have the same problem and I get all kinds of explanations from turbo lag to protecting the tranny. The hesitation I feel is when I throttle from a dead stop. It is a very slight hesitation, but very noticeable, almost like a little "dead spot." If I take my foot off the brake and let it take off on its own for just a second or two and then throttle smoothly it is not there at all. If this is not normal, I want to do everything I can to get it fixed. It is driving me nuts.
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My truck recently has been giving me the issue of wither having no boost , bogging down as its trying to excelerate , then going into overboost. It idles fine , i have cleaned out the egr . I'm at a complete list on what to do at this point the truck is a 2007 F250 6.0l
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Just bought a 2006 F250 with 6.0. A week or so ago, it surged once at idle at a light. Sort of felt like someone bumped into your rear. It has gotten more frequent over the last week or so. Now it does it often. It tends to rev up and then back down again over and over. Then it will clear up again. My brother said his 7.3 used to have a similar problem (as did quite a few others apprently) and it was the Cam positioning sensor (CPS). Where is it located?
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I bought a 2006 F-350 4WD Lariat SRW with a little over 200,000 miles on it. The truck seems to run perfectly, except when pulling a load (9,000-10,000 lbs) down the interstate/highway. Sometimes, when pulling above 65-70 mph for an extended period of time (45 minutes to an hour) the truck will all of a sudden idle down and won't get above 2300-2500 RPMs (even if you put it in neutral and floor it). It's not enough to shut it down, but it won't let the truck accelerate as fast as normal. Killing the truck and cranking it back makes it go back to running normal for a little while, but the periods of it acting up get shorter after each killing and restarting. I took it to the Ford place while it was acting up, and they thought it was a turbo problem. They cleaned the turbo and said everything looked fine, but the same problem arose after leaving the shop. They've been stumped at 3 different Ford shops, but one said there's a 95% chance a new turbo would fix the problem. What might be wrong?
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I have a 2006 f250 with a 6.0 with sct livewire, arp studs&gaskets, oil cooler, blue spring mod, sinister egr cooler and it had been giving me some real troubles lately. Started off as a code for injector #8 so I replaced that and while I was in there I rebuilt the oil rail with new nipple cups and orings, replaced standpipe and dummy plug in that bay(also updated the arc fitting less than a year ago), new exhaust back pressure sensor tube because it was right plugged with carbon, and a new egr valve because that was right packed with carbon as well, all backed together and torqued to spec from the Haynes manual and the truck still sounds like its missing at an idle with some light smoke(just smells like unburnt fuel). From there I went to test the ficm which is also only a couple years old and it seems to stay at a constant 48v so at this point...
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I have a 2006 f-250 6.0. About 2-ish months ago, it started revving up while I was parked and hooking up a trailer. It ended up needing an ICP sensor and pigtail wires. Was fine after that until around 10 days ago, it died when I was driving down the road and wouldn't start back up. That time it was the IPR. Got it back Friday, drove home (40 min) and didn't need to drive it until today. I fired it up, and we're back to the revving/surging. I decided not to take it on the road, really tired of being stranded. Could it be the icp again? Something else? I'm so tied of throwing money at this thing.
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