Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2006 - Failed Glow Plugs And Engine Flutter In Upper Gears
Jun 21, 2015
I've recently gone through and replaced all 8 of my '06 6.0's glow plugs as the check engine light has successively come on (I first did #3 about a year ago, then #5 seven months ago, #1 and #7 two months ago, and #2, #4, #6, #8 about two weeks, did all 4 on the drive side even the code was only for #6). A light came up for #1 again today, so I'm wondering would this be symptoms of failed glow plug control module? Also, can a failed module cause the glow plugs to fail prematurely? Haven't had a chance to ohm the plug yet.
The truck has also has been hard to start when cold and had a pretty bad engine flutter the past 8 months when cold at medium range rpms in the upper gears (1500-2000 rpms in 3rd, 4th, and 5th gear and accelerating like a grandma). I don't know if it could be glow plug related, or a bigger issue (I did the EGR/Oil cooler myself about a year ago as well and things ran good until the winter hit). If I plugged the truck in over night over the winter, the flutter was not nearly as bad, but now it's summer and it's still not liking the cold take offs.
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About a year or so ago, cyl 5 glow plug failed. 6 months later number 1 failed. Now number 3. I seem to remember someone mentioning that the module can sometimes cause produce similar problems. Are there two circuits in the module, one for the left and one for the right, or just one circuit for both? 167K on it so it doesn't surprise me that they fail but just odd that they are all on the same side.
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I drained my batteries enough that I needed a jump after the last time I was troubleshooting trailer wiring, since I keyed on a bunch of times. What fuse or relay do I need to pull out next time? I'm thinking of pulling fuse 302, HFCM relay (or fuse 7 in the disto box under hood) to disable the fuel pump, but what fuse or relay is for the glow plugs?
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How long do the glow plugs stay on during a cold start? Do the glow plugs stay on during the first few minutes of running?
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So I bought my first diesel last night and I'm in LOVE!!! It's an 06 F-250 with 6.0 (obviously). It's bulletproofed, rebuilt FICM, EGR deleted, and 4 inch exhaust IIRC. Previous owner had an issue with the turbo and replaced it. New turbo was DOA so he rebuilt it (sort of) and added a precision turbo (again IIRC) back housing (I think) to it. It has an SCT tuner as well and I have it set on the custom economy tune. Is this normal? Is there something I need to be doing about this?
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I replaced the glow plugs and gpr and the truck won't start. I'm also having to replace the water fuel separator. What is going on? 1999 F250 7.3l ....
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I am having a difficult time trying to track down the root cause of a P1393 code in a 99.5 7.3. The code means all the glow plugs on the driver's side are not working. I don't have any other codes related to the glow plug system present in my computer.
I've replaced:
1)The Glow Plug Relay (I have the CA version with the shunt)
2)Valve cover gaskets and wire harnesses
3)Glow plugs
I've used all OEM product replacements.
Additional testing:
1)Voltage on the glow plug relay posts going to the left and right bank is the same (I think this means the shunt is okay)
2)Disconnecting the wire harness to the valve covers yields 12 volts at all 8 glow plug connections during the glow plug cycle
3)In one of the steps of a troubleshooting document I found, it requires a KOEO On-Demand Self Test. It does not complete and ends with a P0605 code, "Internal CTRL Module ROM Error" using a Snap On Scan tool.
4)Using the Snap On scan tool to run a glow plug test results in "Test has aborted 64 - Abnormal Exit without result".
5)I checked part of the wiring loom and it seemed to be good.
Is there a way to test the wire that goes from the Glow Plug Relay on the driver-side bank to the PCM? I think that either this wire is bad, or a bad PCM.
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06 6.0 F250 throwing code P0677 #7 glow plug circuit module. I don't think one bad plug would cause a no start, however coupled with too much oil possibly? Swapped my oil about 500 miles ago, I put in 20qts accidentally, drained off about 3-4 qts eyeballed, truck fired up and ran fine no smoke nothing. Yesterday morning I was leaving work and moved my truck from parking space to behind the bay at my fire station, I turned the engine off.
Loaded up my gear and turned the engine to the aux position and someone was talking to me so inlet it sit for a while in the auxiliary position. Went to crank no start, turned the key off then back on and it fired. Fast forward after 7 different starts throughout the day, I'm at dinner with my son we go to leave engine will not start at all, rolls and rolls and rolls nothing. Towed her home and scratching my head. Over filled oil with a bad plug cause no start??
Egr delete, new oil cooler, cat and muffler delete, upgraded Y turbo pipe. Also have an SCII throwing codes p0677 and p0401 egr code....
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So bummed. I love Ford but this has put a bad taste in my mouth. Glow Plug dropped and destroyed the engine and injectors. Now i have a bill for 15k for a long block and injectors.
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So; I bought my 07 f350 6.0 the other day. I have a light on that sends a code for glow plug control module, but the truck starts fine, the same in cold temperatures as warm, so far nothing below 32 degrees though. I dont have the code # at the moment, but will update when i get the scanner back. Why this module is throwing a red flag?
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My 2007 has been having this issue for the last couple of years and has gotten pretty consistent lately. When it's below about 60 and the engine has cooled to ambient temps, it will crank all day and not start. Once ambient temps are about 60, it will fire up and runs like a champ. You'd never know it had an issue. It's got a #4 glow plug fault. Other than that, everything is reading within parameters. FICM, GPCM, or what?
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I have to replace the #6 glow plug. I confirmed it is bad and the harnes broke when trying to reove it with the proper tool. I ordered a new glow plug, ZD13, and a new drivers side harness.
I have never replaced a glow plug before but it seems pretty straight forward. I watched some youtube videos and did some reading.
I have read some state that you have to loosen the glow plug with a 10mm socket and then take some tubing and push it onto the glow plug to finish loosening it and prevent it from falling into the cylinder. I have read people saying it took them hours with a magnet to get the plug out of the cylinder.
If the plug is threaded and is removed from the threads how is it possible for it to fall past the threads into the cylinder?
Anything special I need to know? Anti-seize on the threads and dielectric grease on the connection? What the torque spec is?
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Ok yesterday while driving my truck the glow plug light came on couple times and lost power but the light would turn off and power came back. It has done this before and it was the injector harness grounding out on the engine. I replaced that last time. I checked over the knew one and did not see any chaffing on the harness.
Now this morning I go outside to start it and I can hear my fuel pump and vacuum pump but injectors wouldn't cycle. It has also done this before but I could never figure out why. Last time I tore into it checking through my wiring harness and couldn't find anything. When I put it back together it started fine.
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I have a 2016 F350 Powerstroke fully deleted for about 3k miles. Truck was running perfectly then out of no where started running like crap and had very minimal power 500-2000rpm. Once 2000rpm hit, turbo spooled up and made power. Very odd. I cleaned out back pressure sensor, map sensor and hoses. No fix. Did a hard reset and the truck ran fine again and had low end power.
Ever since then I started hearing very odd fluttering sounds coming from what I think is the turbo. Also noticed my OEM boost gauge doesn't work. No reading from it.
The flutter only comes on when the truck goes under load for a short period of time and then I let off the throttle. It seems to running fine other then that and maybe a little bit more sluggish then normal. Any things I can check before I put it back to stock and bring it to the dealer?
MODS:
NO Limit EGR Delete
Flo-Pro 5" Straight
S&B Intake
SCT Livewire w/ custom tunes
Also, I had a lot of problems with my live wire software. I have to send it back to SCT to get warranty problems fixed which I'll be sending out Monday. They think my tuner is stuck in demo mode for some off reason.
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Just happened to check codes today for fun and found something interesting. I've known about 2 or 3 glow plug codes since last winter but I looked today and I have a code for every single circuit. Thought that was kind of odd.... I already have 8 brand new plugs and both harnesses from Autonation sitting in the back seat, was just waiting till the fall to change them out. At 176k on the originals I decided to change them all. But now I'm thinking the GPCM may be faulty as well.
P0671 Cylinder 1 Glow Plug Circuit
P0672 Cylinder 2 Glow Plug Circuit
P0673 Cylinder 3 Glow Plug Circuit
P0674 Cylinder 4 Glow Plug Circuit
P0675 Cylinder 5 Glow Plug Circuit
P0676 Cylinder 6 Glow Plug Circuit
P0677 Cylinder 7 Glow Plug Circuit
P0678 Cylinder 8 Glow Plug Circuit
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It's a 2004 6.0 excursion with about 190,000 miles. At 185,000 I pulled the motor and did new oem head gaskets, Arp head studs, bulletproof egr cooler and oil cooler system, bulletproof 48v ficm, strictly diesel regulated return, and I've been running gear heads srl tune before and after the truck was rebuilt.
Recently the truck has been acting up at random times. While running the gear head srl tune, the truck will lose power, the boost gauge on my edge insight will get stuck along with Icp psi, the water in fuel light and glow plug light will come on, and then after a few seconds it will clear itself and run fine. Last night I was on a two lane road and putting my foot into it and the truck did the same thing where it loses power, but this time the truck actually died on me while I was cruising at 60.
Same lights were on but this time the cruise control light fluttered while the truck was in the midst of dying. I tried restarting it and it took two sets of cranking before it fired and stayed running. On the way home I babied it and the truck lost power and the Rpms dropped and only the glow plug light came on. Got home and ran codes and I got camshaft and crankshaft position sensor codes and I tuned it back to stock, drove it around, and the truck ran fine, but while on a stock tune I am getting a egr valve code.
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Could a leaking passenger side glow plug harness cause a "hot no start?
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Pulled p0678, glow plug 8. I've changed out the glow plug on cylinder 1 a few years ago.
Cylinder 8, being on the driver side rear, is it difficult to change out? Should I just pay Ford or another shop to fix this?
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I would like to know if i am the only one that had that problem... a few weeks ago, I had to stop and get the truck towed to the dealership and they told me that my engine was shot. Then they told me it was a glow plug that fell inside the cylinder... didn't know it was possible but any way it was under warranty.
Last Monday they asked me to bring all my service receipt and that ford is asking them to take the engine apart and study it before they would ship a new engine... Are the trying to get away from paying it under warranty? The truck is 2011 with 80000 km (50000 miles).
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I'm really struggling to get this sucker off my 2014 6.7 F350
it says in the ford manual to lift the plastic tabs then pull off, I did that easily with 3 on each side, but the end plug on each side (the one closest to the windshield) does not seem to have a liftable tab (it looks different to the others as its at the end of the cable)
I've almost broken it but not quite, its over $300 for new harness, ouch
I do have the odd little hook tool they sell for this, it worked with the other 3 for sure, but I've spent ages on the 4th on each side and cannot budge either of them
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Got a 2003 6.0 that seems to be leaking from the glow plug harness. How hard would it be to just replace them? I've heard that trying to remove these things can be a pain because they almost always break. But if I'm just going to replace them who cares right?
Is there anything I need to be careful about? Or can I just rip em on out? Also I've noticed two different styles of harness should I replace mine with the other style or just keep it the same? And yes those valve cover nuts are loose. I'm aware
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