Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2006 F550 - Overheating Going Uphill
Oct 4, 2015
I have a 2006 F550 mini bus, that I just had the head studs done, egr delete and air intake changed. Last night we took it out for a run to test it since we just installed a new fan clutch. We can here the fan kicking on and off. The problem is, we drove it say 60 miles, up and down a mountain, had no issues. We got out and ate for about an hour, and then drove it back the same way. This time on a slight upgrade my check gauges came on, and I seen the temp rising. I let off the fuel, and it dropped back down. So the rest of the way home I was easy on the fuel and made it back with out heating up again.
Today, we took it for a ride and at idle before we left the ECT was 172, and EOT 170, as we drove I watched the temps. Climbing up a fairly steep mountain, we were doing about 65mph, for about a 5 mile climb. During the climb my ECT was 201 and EOT 226, at the hottest point it was ECT 204 and the EOT was 226.
I am assuming it could be a possible water pump and or oil cooler. Reason I am thinking the water pump, is because after it over heated, I noticed if I let off the fuel quick after running I would hear a noise like a puffing sound. It was the coolant shooting out of the degas bottle. It did this several times when letting off the fuel quick, which I think was the pump was allowing the coolant to be pushed back in from the heat.
I already ordered a new pump, which if bad could also cause the oil not to cool as the pump is not pushing enough coolant? (Also I only lose coolant if it gets to hot)...
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I have a 2006 F250 with an International 6.0 turbo diesel. Last Friday I was driving 70mph up hill when my truck slowed down (I wasn't hauling anything) and then stalled, I got it restarted my doing a moving restart. After that it stayed in limp mode and wouldn't go up into 4th gear it just would jump from 1st to 2nd them to 3rd if I was coasting and it would only let me go 40mph at the most, so I got a tester and tested it and the only code it gave me was glow plug 1 & 5 were misfiring so I replaced those.
After I decided to do a test drive I went 800 meters and my tuck still didn't go out of gear one and I couldn't get my truck to go more than 5mph, then it stalled, so after about 30 minutes and 2 other guys tinkering with everything, we got her started and she sounded perfect, so I took off again, same thing happened except I got her going 20 mph but her RPMS stayed under 2,000 and then it decided to sputter and then stalled.
When I went to restart her the ABS, TBC and the transmission light went off, now she won't crank over and she was clicking (starter or dead battery) and now the lights don't go off, the Windows don't work and their is no electricity flowing...... I understand the electricity, she has 2 batteries. (The first one starts i.e. Glow plugs, starter etc, the other just supplies juice to the system, I.E. Lights, fuel pump.. Etc) what is causing this?
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have a 2006 f250 with the 6.0 Powerstroke diesel started overheating yesterday the ECT and EOTcheck fine with the scangauge always ran with in 8 degree's of each other. Thought maybe water pump impeller may have been slipping so it is new with no change. Fan kicks on like it should. Heater works good so don't think it is a thermostat.
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Before performing this modification, what lift was achieved up front?
My endeavor is not to achieve level, per se, but rather allow for increased tire size, such as 35's and ground clearance.
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I have a 2005 F550 with a 6.0. Recently I have had issues with a long crank before starting at times but once it started there were no issues driving. Yesterday it started up in the morning, made a few stops then it wouldn't start at all. Cranked strong but no start. Had it towed back, sat for an hour or two now it starts again. Put a gauge on it and all readings are good. Did have a P2285 code which the ICP sensor. I do suspect there could be an issue with the egr cooler as it needs coolant occasionally. Could that have anything to do with the no start? Truck has started fine today. Why start sometimes then not?
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What to do 2011 F550 RampTruck 11,850 miles on it the vehicle has been back to the dealer 5 times for the same trouble code P0299. After the last time it was in they had it for 2 weeks seemed to be fixed. Last week one of my drivers was towing a Chevy S10 50 or so miles and heard a very faint ticking like a stone in the tire that got instantly worse and before he could pull over started rapping and stalled out. We towed it back to the dealer they removed the Cab disassembled the engine and found a "blown piston" is there quote. What should we do about this problem the dealer is supposedly fighting with Ford and Ford doesn't want to put in a new engine.They want to fix it instead....
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I am the original owner of a 2003 F250 Super Duty 6.0L. I have had all the required work that has ever needed to be done to it, including replacing the entire wiring harness and some work on the turbo this last September. Over the last few weeks I have noticed it sputtering when going between 45-55MPH up a hill. It only does this when I'm going at a steady speed. It starts fine and accelerates fine, but if I'm going a steady speed up a hill 45-55MPH I notice the sputtering. I've had almost all my work done by the dealership and just had it in last week for this, but they have told me there is nothing wrong, but knowing my truck, I know there is. What could be causing this? There are no check engine lights on or anything.
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i have an 03 F350 6.0 turbo diesel. Problem im having is a boost problem. on the passenger side, the intake tube keeps popping off the turbo. The Boot ripped on me on a hill so i replaced it with one from the junkyard seeing that it costs so much new. Anywho when i changed the intake tube i did clean it with brake cleaner to clean it and wipe it off. After i did i went for a ride and it just popped off at about 2500 rpm. So i went back thinking maybe i had too many bruskies and recleaned and tightened the clamps on the boot again. Get going down the road going normal again. I gave it a heavy foot to about 3200 and let off it made a sound like fluttering then as soon as i hit it again it blew off. looked at some other forums that said to put hairspray on the boot to seal it. haven't drove it yet just looking for other peoples solutions.
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The service truck threw a CEL, and i pulled oxygen sensor performance bank one sensor one code. That would be driver side sensor between the manifold and cat, rite? Don't want to change the wrong one...
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I have a late model 2004 F-350 6.0 powerstroke. 182K miles. Auto Transmission
What happened. Condensed version
Left house, drove out to highway, got on highway. Everything feels normal.
About 1 mile of going 70mph, I notice I can no longer accelerate. after 1/2 mile, I begin loosing speed, and engine will not rev past 1000 rpm. I eventually pull over (another mile), put in neutral and will not rev past 1000. put in drive and start to idle to highway exit. it gets about another .5 mile and begin going up a hill when it completely dies. Will not restart.
No prior issues with the truck. Full tank of fuel.
What I have tested so far. Ficm 48.5 volts cranking. Icp .225V KOEO, .875V Cranking. LPOP is registering pressure on the dash. No Fault codes.
I have gotten it to start twice now, one time it allowed me to rev to 750 rpm, where i used 4 low to make it onto a trailer. second time would not rev at all. idling at 250-300 rpm.
That same night as it died, I drained the transmission pan/ TP filter and filled with 8.5 Quarts of Mercon LV. This is the first time I have done this since purchasing @ 161K miles. Everything seemed normal, no leaks present.
Also my buddy showed me how to enter the dash test mode and we cycled through these. Not sure if this is relevant.
So, What do I test next? I don't think its HPOP issue since the ICP is reading .875 volts at crank. I did unplug the ICP and it still would not start. I don't think its the injector side of the ficm because they buzz as normal with koeo, but this is a possibility as I don't have equipment to test. Egr valve is clean for age of truck.
Would it be possible that the Mercon LV knocked crud loose in the transmission causing it to fail/seize? would siezed tranny cause the engine to behave in this manner?
Fuel bowl on top of the engine was full of fuel. I have not pressure tested it yet as I can hear the pump running during key on.
could i have a bad crank or cam sensor?
Multi-injector failure?
Bad Icp with HPO failure?
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My truck has a new HPOP, Water pump, fan clutch, coolant temp sensor, and t stat. For a while it would only overheat when pulling a load or just pushing the truck hard. now that i have tuned my truck to street from SCT it overheats only when idling with ac on for a long period of time. turn on the heat and the temp jumps back down. i have full gauges and can do diagnostics but am not sure what to look for. My guess is a clogged radiator but that seems unlikely. My radiator dose have a small leak at the gasket could this cause it?
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I have a 05 6.0l that started over heating while towing recently. In 2012 i did egr delete, oil cooler, stc fitting, and coolant filter. I recently changed radiator and tstat think that was the problem due to small leak in radiator, but still towing about a 4-5k load temps rise to over heat while towing. What to look for next. Also fan seems to be work properly I monitor fan speed etc., and tft on my scangauge.
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After replacing both heads with remanufactured heads from ford along with new egr and oil cooler a month ago, she still overheats when pulling a load. While normal driving and not towing, no problems. In the last 5,000 miles since work was done and while towing approx. 15,000 lbs (load and trailer weight) she got hot once, slowed down, temp retreated got home - she has not overheated since then pulling 4-5 loads over the next 2,500 miles. Today at about 75 degrees only 4 blocks after picking up a load at about 12,000 lbs she started getting hot again. After I let her cool down and got on the Freeway the temp went down, appears she's not staying cool in the city with a load on. With all the work and new parts I had installed, what the problem might be?
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I was towing my camper uphill and my 03 6.0 started missing and blowing black kid smoke. Next thing I know I hear a loud pop and steam is coming from under the hood and the truck dies. I pull over and discover the degas lid is stuck on and the bottle came apart at the the seam and the truck will not start. 6.0 with 120k miles
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While driving home last night my truck started to overheat, the temp jumped from where its been running at lately (around 210) to 240, I stopped and took it easy getting home. This morning I sprayed down the radiator to clean out any mud that may have gotten in it from field work at the office (its always going through some pretty deep stuff). It ran fine for about an hour then it started to over heat again, I got it home and did a complete radiator flush and then did a test drive. It still overheated so I decided to try something, I released the pressure in the system by unscrewing the cap partially and drove it around again, this time it didn't overheat, put the cap back on and the temp jumped right back up to 240.
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I just bought a used 2007 f250 with the 6.0 power stroke. The truck has approx. 160,000 miles on it. He is having a issue with the truck overheating when it is cold out. When the air temp is above 30 degrees or so, he doesn't have a issue. So,my he overheating only occurs when driving down the highway in low temperatures. It can idle in the cold fine.
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