Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2006 F350 Won't Start When Turn Off After Driving
Mar 14, 2015
I recently purchased a 2006 f350 with 6.0 power stroke. I drove it approx 15 miles shut the truck off, let it sit for approx 3 he's. Then I drove another 15 miles and shut it off. When I went back to it. To start it up would not start. The dealer said brand new injectors when I bought the truck. I tried to start it for approx ten min. I didn't want to bog down the battery. So when it wouldn't start I sprayed a shot of starting fluid and it took right off. But when you shut it off it won't start again.
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This truck is bone stock FYI. I get in it to crank it and I get nothing. Batteries are good, everything in the cluster lights up, and looks normal. No codes are thrown. I can hear the solenoids click under the dash and hood. I check the voltage of ignition cable at the starter and I get no reading.
There is a single thick yellow with light blue stripe coloured wire on the passenger side of the engine compartment, beside the vacuum pump with a "squeeze and pull" type disconnect. Disconnect it, and connect the male half of the connector to the passenger side battery positive terminal. Do this with the ignition key in the RUN position. Does the truck start?
This is where it gets weird. The truck does start and after i reconnect the wire it it starts normal. I started it several times throughout the day. The next morning I get in the truck. No start. I have to use the wire and manually connect it to the battery and it starts right up again. This time I get a "Tow/Haul" light blinking on the dash. It will go into gear but pressing the acceleration pedal does nothing. I turn it back off, attempt to start it normally and it starts right up. No it will go into gear and drive. Now I am thinking maybe the neutral safety switch?
Could it be a solenoid sticking or the neutral safety switch or something else entirely?
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My friend has an 05 6.0. He's having a no start issue. He was driving and it cut off, he couldn't remember if it cut off quick or sputtered. I hooked up my AE and jumper cables and stated looking. Cranking the icp would only build up to 190ish. I unplugged the icp sensor and AE was reading 1538ish??, I guess that was a default value. The ipr reading immediately went up to 85% but still doesn't fire. Also while cranking there wasn't any white smoke at all from the exhaust. A few years ago he broke down and Ford put in the updated snap to connect fitting. He said they also replaced the dummy plugs but he didn't mention stand pipes so... I'm not where the truck is so if there's any questions it might take a few.
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2006 f350 6.0..... I was driving for about 10 hours and truck ran fine. Until with no warning it just died. Got it towed home and now I try to start. It turns over fine but no fire.... I know not to use but we used starter fluid to see of it would fire thinking maybe file filter bit still no fire with the starter fluid. I find it weird that it won't fire even on stater fluid. The engine oil was very low as well but since topped it up.
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I have about 70k miles on my truck and I've noticed just recently that my suspension is squeaking or creaking when I start to turn the wheel. What's the solution.... 2011 6.7 F350 super duty....
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The truck seems to be smoking a lot when I do start it then once I drive it for a second the smoke stops. The truck will not start after the engine gets hot..
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I have a 2006 F350 6.0L. That is Having trouble starting after it is warmed up. Ive been told multiple things it could be but the one ive been told the most is the Stand pipe or dummy plug in the oil rail having a small leak. Is this correct? Or is there something else i need to Check??
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I have a 2006 F350 6.0 diesel with 110K miles. it takes me about 10 tries to get the engine to start. When it finally starts there is a lot of smoke and engine runs really bad. This isn't the case if I have the engine warmer plugged in. After warm up the engine runs pretty good.
My engine light comes on sometimes and will go out other times. I have tried sever attempts at adding injector cleaner with no results. Am weary about taking it to Ford for an analysis. Where to start with repairs? I did take it to Orielly auto and had the engine checked on their scanner. Approximately two pages of possible repairs come up.
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We have two 6.0 trucks and one is having issues. A couple days ago it started to have white smoke like crazy upon startup, and when you slowed down you could see smoke, any speed and it dispersed so it was not noticeable. It got worse very rapidly and I haven't ha. A chance to work on it, it's also burning antifreeze, that's what the smoke is. Recently the egr started to act up so I cleaned it and the code for a sticky egr went away. It came back after a few months so I cleaned it, it went away for a few days then came on with the symptoms I just described. It has been moved at work a couple times the last few days, but not driven. Today I had to move it and it would not start, no white smoke either while cranking. I read the codes and this is what it has:
P0674- cylinder 4 glow plug control
P0404- EGR control circuit range/performance
P0299- turbo underboost
P0403- EGR control circuit
P0405 EGR sensor A circuit low
I would say it's a head gasket or EGR cooler, no? What course would I take to find out what's wrong? The truck in question is a 2006 F350 SRW King ranch. It has 115k on it, and the majority are work miles pulling trailers.
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Fuel injectors do this? They are off a 2006 Ford F350 dually with the 6.0 diesel motor! Have replaced all 8 fuel injectors got back drove for 200miles and fuel injectors 4 and 8 were throwing codes changed them out and high pressure oil pump oil coolant deleted egr valve changed the ipr valve feed tubes to the oil rails. replaced the FICM. Yet again drove for 2 days about 200 miles again and shut down (stalled) misfiring hard start. and now fuel injector 4 is throwing codes again. Have not drove it since we got it home from the last stall out which was a few feet from our drive way and we towed it home.
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While driving uphill yesterday, my truck 6.0 f250 completely died. Added oil cause it's been a while and tried starter fluid. Cranks but won't start. Pulled OBD codes p0300, p0304, p0401, p0460, p0562, p0606, and p2290. Checked IPR, works fine. Checked fuses. Low voltage codes are most likely from battery dying during the test.
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A month ago I got into my truck in the morning and when I turned the key to Run everything lit up like normal and after the glow plugs warmed up, I turned the key and there was about a two second delay between me turning the key and the engine cranking over.
The next couple times I tried starting the truck that same morning I had to try to start it a couple times because it wouldn't try to crank over the first couple times but it would always eventually start.
It's been continuing to give me problems but never stopped running once it was started and then this morning I tried starting it for 45 minutes with no luck.
What I have tried so far is:
Resetting batteries
Jumping the truck
Checked to see if the starter is getting power. ( I put wire testers on it while someone else started and I didn't get a good reading even when it did start. New starter was put in 9 months ago.)
I also made sure wire going to starter wasn't corroded
Battery terminals are also not corroded
Checked fuses
Tried starting truck with fan clutch disconnected
Cussing at it
Tapping starter with a hammer while trying to start it
Also, everything sounds perfectly normal when I turn the key, it just doesn't even try to turn over.
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I have a 2004 Ford f 350 superduty. Everything runs great. Now the other day my fan came on and stayed on for three days now. It goes with my rpm so when I am doing a 100 down the highway in hopes it will disengage but won't.. Everything is Stalk.
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My 05 F350 6.0 won't turn over with the key, everything comes on like normal but won't turn over. Starts fine with factory remote start. What to check?
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I have a 2005 F-350 Lariat, FX4, CrewCab, with an 8ft Bed if any of that matters. Currently sitting at 191,000 miles and 4,500 Engine Hours I just started running into some issues that I cannot figure out. To start with here is a list of all the mods and prior maintenance that I've done to my truck over that last 6+ years that I've owned it.
I purchased the truck in 2010 and had no issues whatsoever for the first 3 years.....then it all started. While pulling a camper home from vacation "still bone stock" the truck overheated and by the time I realized it it was to late. I ended up blowing a head gasket cracking a head and blowing a hole in my coolant reservoir from the heat & compression of the engine in the coolant system. So to the shop it went.
All of this was done at the same time at just under 4,000 engine hours:
1) Both heads were sent out to be pressure tested "which is where the crack was found", so 1 replacement head and the other trued up and tested by the machine shop
2) All 8 injectors replaced with Airtex/Wells New/Reman
3) ARP Head Studs
4) BPD EGR Cooler
5) New Stock Coolant Reservoir
6) New Stock Oil Cooler
7) Motorcraft Coolant & Oil/Oil Filter Change
8) New Serpentine Belt
After getting the truck back I installed some upgrades that I had wanted but didn't want to do until I had head studs. 4" Turbo back Diamond Eye Performance exhaust, Bully Dog GT Tuner with an EGT Pyro, coolant changed to Caterpillar ELC, Sinister Diesel coolant filtration system, new Optima batteries "I hated them",
Forward a year with no problems I had a crank but no start. I ended up having a bad IPR. A buddy rebuilt the turbo since I had it out and it was leaking. He apparently did something wrong because it took its own life sometime after. So a brand new stock Garrett Turbo with a Wicked Wheel 2 & I changed the IPR "don't remember the brand." Also replaced the factory paper air filter with a cleanable one from AFE that fits in the factory cold air intake.
Little more time and I started to have some overheating issues again, luckily the Bully Dog was monitoring and I had alerts set up so I caught it way before it caused any serious damage. Turned out the fan clutch wasn't working. So I replaced the Water Pump with one from dieselsite.com that has a steel impeller, also replaced the computer controlled fan clutch with a 7.3L mechanical fan clutch and an adapter from BPD.
After that the batteries I hated were replaced. I installed Oddssey Extreme 950CCA ones, a new 185A alternator from FICMRepair.com as well as the complete battery wiring interconnect kit. Did the blue spring upgrade. Replaced my FICM with the BPD 6 phase at 54V setting. Also I changed my starter to an 6.4L Ultima one from O'Reily Auto to bring me up from that slow crank of the 6.0L at about 150RPM to the 225RPM of the 6.4L.
So now on to the current issue. This has happened in the last month and may be related to the issue. I had some small coolant leaks and wanted them fixed. Pressure tested the system & found the radiator and timing cover gasket leaking. I installed a new stock radiator and lower radiator hose. Had the shop do the gasket and a serpentine belt due to cleaners being all over it. During replacement of the timing cover gasket my mechanic found that the LPOP gears had some damage as if something had be in there at one time. Not sever damage just minor. LPOP replaced with brand new one from Ford.
After I got the truck back it was fine for 2 weeks, no leaks or any problems whatsoever. Then I noticed a hesitation as I was leaving work at idle. You could see the RPM's moving up and down by about 50 as it sat there at idle. It got really bad and eventually stalled on me. It fired right back up and ran fine after. I was thinking water in the fuel or just maybe old fuel because it was kinda old and I was at 1/4 of a tank. I went and filled up and it ran great all the way home. Day or so later same thing. At idle you can see the RPM fluctuating and while driving it feels like it has no power at times then it goes away and runs fine. So I changed both fuel filter with Motorcraft ones and put in a new oil filter. It is the Wix brand but I've be running it for years with no issues, one was also in it way before this issues started. The oil has about 2,000 miles on it currently. I verified fuel pressure at idle to be at 70PSI. I tried unplugging the ICP at idle with no change in the hesitation. So I plugged in my SG2 and started to see if I could see anything out of the ordinary.
OAT - 60 Degrees F
KOEO Engine Cold - FMP - 54.5V, ICV - 0.25V, ICP - 0, IPR - 14.9
KOER Engine Warm - FMP - 54.5V, ICV - 0.82V, ICP - 576, IPR - 23.5
Cruise at 40MPH - FMP - 54.5V, ICV - 1.14V, ICP - 965, IPR - 32.9
Cruise at 50MPH - FMP - 54.5V, ICV - 1.42V, ICP - 1,190, IPR - 38.0
Cruise at 60MPH - FMP - 54.5V, ICV - 1.27V, ICP - 1,143, IPR - 37.2
While driving this issue comes and goes very randomly. The only parameter I notice changing alot is the IPR. It jumps around a lot and sometimes it will go to 85. I know that this isn't a good thing so I am going to change the IPR later today or tomorrow. I already had a brand new Motorcraft one to put in, plus at the very least I want to look at the screen. I had read somewhere that there could be air in the oil system and that if you run at a high RPM it can remove this air. I never seen any bubbles or anything on the dipstick. My brother ran the truck for me at 3,000RPM for 5 minutes. No hesitation during the test but he didn't have the SG2 plugged in so I don't know the parameters during the test. I thought that it worked but then it came back after a few miles of driving. The above parameters are from this mornings drive home from work.
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I would like the hear what others have to say about the problems I'm having with my 2006 F-350 sd xlt 6.0 with 113,000 miles on it. It's being used as a tool truck mostly going from a shop on the property to close by buildings on the same property. In other words very short distances. Used occasionally to take a dump trailer to a close by dumping ground.
1. White smoke from exhaust. I've read this is most likely an ERG cooler that needs replacing. Any other possible causes? If I end up having to replace the cooler is there a stock cooler that is reliable or should I get the one by bullet proof?
2. Diesel is dripping from the muffler weep hole. Last full tank lasted only 60 miles. Could this be the oil cooler? Anything else? If so is the Ford replacement cooler OK or should I go with an upgraded cooler?
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I have a strange issue and it happens very sporadic. Sometime it occurs at startup, sometimes while driving. Not sure whether it is limp mode, but I have no throttle. It starts fine, idles, but no throttle. Like I said, sometimes it happens while driving and I have to pull over and shut it down and restart. Mods are few, it has an airaid air filter and I had the turbo rebuilt and egr delete both completed in May. FICM was rebuilt by ficmrepair.com a couple years ago. It does seem to happen more often when it is raining or with a heavy dew after sitting for many hours. 128k.
I adjusted the pedals all the way out and back in and it stopped for almost 5 weeks, but it has been pretty dry here in SW Ohio. then it got really foggy one day and rained the next and it has started again. Could it be that the EGR pigtail is getting moisture. It does not throw a CEL and my scan gauge II shows no codes. I did run a dose of hotshot's secret thru the fuel back in may, ran a couple tanks of fuel, then changed the filters with OEM. I have had this truck for almost 3 years, but still a newbie when it comes to diesels.
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So this '06 F350 is blowing fluid from the steering pump fitting when you move steering wheel to either side all the way(lock). Is the internal o-ring blown in the fitting? Do these have the teflon seal at the pump? Pretty new to the 6.0 scene. Got a new line ordered.
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I have a 06 f350 superduty with a 6.0 I have had injector problems before with the motor even hydro locking no start this is the problem my truck started blowing white smoke with a strong diesel smell everyone said it was oil cooler but I took it to a ford garage the guy said I had 2 injectors hung open and wasn't hydro locking and suggested to put all 8 in so I did 3400.00 not I went to pick it up had no power at all turbo was not kicking in so I took it right back to them they checked it out said turbo was sticking had to clean it it would take 6 hrs. said the fuel In the motor caused it it was working fine when I took it to them now they say maybe a new turbo are they giving me the run around or is this possible....
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I have a 2006 f350 4x4 dually 6.0. The other morning when leaving for work I hard a loud air noise, like a jet. It only happens when the motor is trying to create boost. I have NO boost. No smoke. If I push the fuel pedal past 1/4, nothing. Its like its stuck and no more power at all. I have changed the boot from the turbo to the intercooler pipe. (looked like it had cracks in it). Checked the cold pipe, no cracks seen. Check the exhaust clamps, into the turbo, they are tight. The turbo is seeping oil around the seal. I took the inlet, fresh air, pipe off. Check the turbo spool for looseness, fins, spun the wheel, ran the engine and watch to wheel. Seen no issues. Where to go now?? No coolant leaks, no oil leaks.
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My dad recently bought 2006 6.0. He has had it about 2 and half months. Has the egr delete kit installed. The truck has ran great. Up until Wednesday the 3rd. My dad headed to Ut to pick up our new quads. While heading up a small grade with empty trailer in tow. Truck went to limp mode, fan kicked on, orange wrench came on on dash board. He pulled over let her cool down turned her off.
Checked fluids Then started her back up and she was fine. That has happened 3 times. Now he is on his way back (tow haul mode turned on) and it is doing it again. She hasn't went into limp mode yet. As soon as the fan kicks in my dad pulls over immediately and puts it in park. And lets her cool down checks fluids. This issue only happens mid way up a grade. So my question is...... What is causing this? How do we fix her and make her a happy truck again.
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