Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2006 F350 Shut Down / Stalled / Misfiring And Hard Start
Mar 27, 2016
Fuel injectors do this? They are off a 2006 Ford F350 dually with the 6.0 diesel motor! Have replaced all 8 fuel injectors got back drove for 200miles and fuel injectors 4 and 8 were throwing codes changed them out and high pressure oil pump oil coolant deleted egr valve changed the ipr valve feed tubes to the oil rails. replaced the FICM. Yet again drove for 2 days about 200 miles again and shut down (stalled) misfiring hard start. and now fuel injector 4 is throwing codes again. Have not drove it since we got it home from the last stall out which was a few feet from our drive way and we towed it home.
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I have a 2006 F350 6.0L. That is Having trouble starting after it is warmed up. Ive been told multiple things it could be but the one ive been told the most is the Stand pipe or dummy plug in the oil rail having a small leak. Is this correct? Or is there something else i need to Check??
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I drive an 06 f350 with a 6.0 diesel. My truck has quit on me twice in two months. It lost power then stalled and would not restart. I had just changed fuel filters but checked them anyway to see if they were plugged. They looked clean so i put them back in and the truck fired up. It ran good then two months later it did the same thing.
I noticed I could not hear the fuel pump so i pulled the cap off if the top fuel filter to see if there was fuel in it, and heard air being sucked in (or pushed out?) as i loosened the cap. I put the cap back on then turned the key and i could hear the fuel pump working. I waited for glow plugs and it fired up. Is my engine getting vapor locked, or sucking air? If so then why would it only happen every now and then instead of continuously?
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03 6.0 with 90k miles. New heads, all orings , stand pipes, injectors , glow plugs, egr delete , oil cooler and studs . Has sct livewire. Just took the truck to the shop for a hard start issue and misfiring at around 30% throttle driving. It would fire up great in the mornings with some white/blue smoke till warm. But after it was warmed up you shut it off it would fire right back up but very slow to reach proper idle.
But if it set for about an hour it would crank great start but same lazy idle up but now it wouldn't get over 300 rpm before it would die. And do this for 5 or so more times before finally idling up. Then runs pretty good other than the misfire. So he said it's either the hpop ipr or icp. I had him replace all 3 with motorcraft parts. Still the same issue ! Return the truck to stock tune and it doesn't have any power . My pockets are only so deep...
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I have had my truck for about 4 years bought it used. I've replaced the motor due to #1 cylinder blowing up. So after I replaced the motor, it wouldn't start. Replaced O rings on HPOP (High Pressure Oil Pump) and started. When moving back to Colorado where I am stationed. It started getting harder and harder to start.
Then it got to the point where it wouldn't start so I would have to wait until I could start it or use a shot of starting fluid and yes I hate that. But I don't have a choice. I've bought new O rings replaced them and my IPR with upgraded screen. It fixed it for a week then the hard start came back. Tried unplugging ICP Sensor still hard start problem. ICP was reading 85%. When the truck is cold it fires right up no problems till it gets hot! Then driving down the high and hitting an off ramp it will shut off. When I try revers it will also shut off. The truck only has 111,252 miles.
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Just got this injectors done. Filled the tank up. Drove for 1/4 of a tank. Went to leave out yesterday. Made it out of my subdivision and down the road 3 miles or so. I was going 55 when the truck stalled. I tried to start the ignition it would turn over, but wouldn't catch to stay running. I did this at least 8 times. Friend came with Ether. Tried 3 separate times, truck started going dead. So i was about to give up... Tried it 1 last time, it fired up like a champ!
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Don't know where to start so I'll ramble!
2005 f350 with the 6.0. Crew Cab, 8' box, 4x4 with DRW. I use it only take the boat to the launch 5 minutes away once in a while and to pull car trailers every other week. Majority of driving is on the highway and average trip is about 300 miles. Low power and now no start.
No codes. I do have a scan Gauge and can provide data.
Was running this week, but has had a lack of power for some time. I had put 2 new injectors in last summer. Also updated dummy and stand pipes. Blue spring. Also new IPR at the time.
Ficm board was replaced in March.
New injector harness last year. New Glow plug harness last year.
Coolant level is fine and none being lost.
CAC hoses appear fine, no cracks.
No boost. But newer MAP sensor, hose not cracked or plugged and nipple on intake is clear. Put the MAP sensor last year and it didn't make a difference.
Turbo was rebuilt 2 years ago.
IPR has to hit close to 80 before boost hits 12-15. But it takes a while to get there.
Now won't start.
Yesterday am it was about 30 farenheit and no start. Last year would start no problem.
Batteries are fine. tested.
Engine fires within 3 seconds, but doesn't want to run.
ICP is above 500. climbs as I turn over.
Fires only in first few seconds and then nothing while I keep cranking it. it is cranking fast enough though.
Now...I see IPR will hit 84.7% and then 14.8%. Not good!
When running it sits in between.
FICm voltage is 48.5 key one and 47.5 when cranking.
Wondering if possibly IPR screen is plugged? Or would CKS or CPS cause issues? I recall reading about pulling one of them and cleaning rust off of it? Also...should mention, no EGR reading on scan gauge..never was either. I had checked and cleaned egr valve before. it was clean when I pulled it and not sticking.
Intake had been cleaned 2years ago. Also, on occasion, while pulling up hill, I would get power! Black smoke and it would race up a hill like it's supposed. Then it would go back to no power.
Also...if I pull the MAP hose from the intake nipple, should I feel suction from the intake? There doesn't appear to be any air coming or going from the nipple.
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Just got the pickup a month ago and it is kinda hard starting, has no power until it warms up then it has good power. Today I was driving and it just bogged down more and more until it just died. Would not restart. No master with the multi meter but set it on 200 v and tested the Ficm and it was running between 48 and 48.1 v but one time while cranking it dipped down to 37 fir just a split second. When it does run it would puff white smoke and motor would run real rough. Can't get over 1500 Rpms when it is cold like it is starving. Think it is the Ficm?
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2014 F350 6.7... The truck has only 30000 miles on it. I was driving uphill and the engine just quit, but fired up right away after with engine check. On idling run at 500-700 rpm , no power, clicking noise , sometimes shaking. Took to the closest dealer right away, they don't know what is it, but they want to rake of the engine . This truck is not under any warranty. This is my first diesel truck, didn't expect anything like this....
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This truck is bone stock FYI. I get in it to crank it and I get nothing. Batteries are good, everything in the cluster lights up, and looks normal. No codes are thrown. I can hear the solenoids click under the dash and hood. I check the voltage of ignition cable at the starter and I get no reading.
There is a single thick yellow with light blue stripe coloured wire on the passenger side of the engine compartment, beside the vacuum pump with a "squeeze and pull" type disconnect. Disconnect it, and connect the male half of the connector to the passenger side battery positive terminal. Do this with the ignition key in the RUN position. Does the truck start?
This is where it gets weird. The truck does start and after i reconnect the wire it it starts normal. I started it several times throughout the day. The next morning I get in the truck. No start. I have to use the wire and manually connect it to the battery and it starts right up again. This time I get a "Tow/Haul" light blinking on the dash. It will go into gear but pressing the acceleration pedal does nothing. I turn it back off, attempt to start it normally and it starts right up. No it will go into gear and drive. Now I am thinking maybe the neutral safety switch?
Could it be a solenoid sticking or the neutral safety switch or something else entirely?
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I recently purchased a 2006 f350 with 6.0 power stroke. I drove it approx 15 miles shut the truck off, let it sit for approx 3 he's. Then I drove another 15 miles and shut it off. When I went back to it. To start it up would not start. The dealer said brand new injectors when I bought the truck. I tried to start it for approx ten min. I didn't want to bog down the battery. So when it wouldn't start I sprayed a shot of starting fluid and it took right off. But when you shut it off it won't start again.
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The truck seems to be smoking a lot when I do start it then once I drive it for a second the smoke stops. The truck will not start after the engine gets hot..
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I have a 2006 F350 6.0 diesel with 110K miles. it takes me about 10 tries to get the engine to start. When it finally starts there is a lot of smoke and engine runs really bad. This isn't the case if I have the engine warmer plugged in. After warm up the engine runs pretty good.
My engine light comes on sometimes and will go out other times. I have tried sever attempts at adding injector cleaner with no results. Am weary about taking it to Ford for an analysis. Where to start with repairs? I did take it to Orielly auto and had the engine checked on their scanner. Approximately two pages of possible repairs come up.
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I have a 2006 f250 with a 6.0 and I am having some issues with a hesitation and lose of power. The hesitation is worse when under load and other times is not so bad. Also it is non existent at higher RPMs (2500 and up). I changed the egr valve 2 months ago and it seemed to fix the issue (95%) but now it is running bad again. I used Hot Shot oil additive 2,500 miles ago and I changed the fuel filters and changed to 5w 40 Rotella synthetic oil, nothing has changed. I had the FICM changed a year ago with new software updates, still didn't fix it 100%.
Now I am having a "hard" start issue. It takes a bit for the truck to turn over. My batteries are 12 months old and I just replaced the alternator so I am not sure how to proceed.
I did just buy a Scangauge II and I am still figuring out how to use it. It says there is no codes.
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We have two 6.0 trucks and one is having issues. A couple days ago it started to have white smoke like crazy upon startup, and when you slowed down you could see smoke, any speed and it dispersed so it was not noticeable. It got worse very rapidly and I haven't ha. A chance to work on it, it's also burning antifreeze, that's what the smoke is. Recently the egr started to act up so I cleaned it and the code for a sticky egr went away. It came back after a few months so I cleaned it, it went away for a few days then came on with the symptoms I just described. It has been moved at work a couple times the last few days, but not driven. Today I had to move it and it would not start, no white smoke either while cranking. I read the codes and this is what it has:
P0674- cylinder 4 glow plug control
P0404- EGR control circuit range/performance
P0299- turbo underboost
P0403- EGR control circuit
P0405 EGR sensor A circuit low
I would say it's a head gasket or EGR cooler, no? What course would I take to find out what's wrong? The truck in question is a 2006 F350 SRW King ranch. It has 115k on it, and the majority are work miles pulling trailers.
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I am getting ready to go on vacation this weekend with my f350 and I was driving today when suddenly the truck shut down while going at about 25 mph. I tried to start it and it just kept cranking. I got it started 5 mins later and it threw a P0069 code. I drove for about 2 more miles and it shut down again, and started right back up. I'm guessing map sensor? This was the last thing I needed to happen!
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I just picked up a 2006 F250 6.0. It was having hard starts. Anyways before I started using it I started tearing things apart cause I knew for sure the turbo was leaking so that had to be resealed. I just picked up a 2003 turbo today for it out of a used truck that had 144000 kms on it. (was in an accident). I am gonna post up a few pics here of the engine bay area, there is a huge amount of old oil I believe to be, I am wondering if it was a leak or spilled oil. I am going to be cleaning this up. Putting 03 turbo in here, doing a service and then plug my Tablet with torque pro and post up some numbers and see how healthy she is. Before I post any pics Is there a way to make these pictures clickable instead of them taking room up on the page?
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Is there a way to shut off the TPMS? Can you adjust the working pressures? My 2016 F350 which I have had now for 3 weeks, has 65psi in the front and the rear is 80psi. which empty rides like a rock. I want to lower it down to 60psi (rear). This made a heck of a difference on my 2008 Dually. Think that will cause a light?
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I was towing a trailer about 600 miles truck was running great, pulled in for fuel and truck was running rough, refueled and was on my way then when going down a hill (Idle) it just quit, had to tow remaining 200 miles.
After reading the forums I replaced the ICR (ICR screen was damaged) Truck now starts but its very loud and missing like crazy. and surges if i give it a little gas. codes 0268, 0281, 2284, 2288 I also replaced the ICP.
should I replace the injectors? what causes this?
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A friend brought to me this 06 E350 with a 6.0, which stalled on him while driving. The van will crank over good and strong, but won't run. It will how ever fire, and almost run until you let the key back (i would describe it as it does run with assistance from the starter). the FICM has 12V in and 47.5V out. And ICP is around 650 psi till it fires then it raises to 1215 psi. there are no codes either - I'm not familiar with these 6.0l...
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this morning I started my 2004 f250 drove a mile and filled up my truck. Then drove another mile and my truck acted like it was running out of fuel. It was loosing power then stalled out and wouldn't start. About five hours later I tried to start it again and nothing. about five hours after that I tried it again and it started up and drove fine.
My thought was fuel filter or the water trap. I haven't had a chance to open the filters up and check them yet. Today while I was at work I got on here to see if I could figure out what was wrong with it. all I could think of was maybe the HPOP went out or the ICP sensor. Could one of these be the problem or was I right with my original thinking and it's just a fuel filter? First thing in the morning I'm going to pull the filters and replace them.
Could there be something else wrong with my truck that I don't know about? Like I said I filled up the fuel tank then it lost power within a mile and stalled out and wouldn't start back up. Then about 10 hours later it fires up and acts like nothing happened.
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