I bought an 06 6.0 f 350 4x4 dump bed cheap. seller said it was sitting for 1-2 years and wouldn't start. ficm is at 48 volts fuel pressure is at 100 oil pressure builds fine, then checked compression and reading no compression in any cylinder. My mechanic says new motor or possibly both head gaskets are blown.
View 14 RepliesStarted having some crank no starts intermittently. Scanned and found codes for cam sensor. so I was in a pinch and a hurry on a sunday so I picked up a BWD brand cam sensor from parts store and installed. I have not seen this issue since but started noticing other thing going on. I noticed a few weeks ago my truck was starting a little strange. as it would spin over before firing off, it didn't sound right. I couldn't pinpoint if it was due to slightly low compression on one cylinder or one cylinder had a little fuel or oil in it and that one cylinder was actually firing while cranking over.
I also was noticing a little longer crank times than normal. didn't matter if engine was cold or hot. sometimes would fire up quick and sometimes it took a few seconds. most of the time I couldn't catch it on my scanegauge if the ICP was low due to the lag on the scangauge.
Well one day on my way home from work (50 miles one way) I stopped about half way to fuel up. after filling up and attempted to restart the truck it really acted like it didn't want to start but did after cranking for about at least 10 seconds and started rough. and of corse my scangauge decied to hate me this day because it would show any data until I unplugged it and plugged it back in. so started home. felt like it had a very very light miss on the way home. when I slowed down to turn onto my road the truck died. took forever to get it to start back up. this time the scangauge was reading and I could see ICP was between 300-400 and IPR was 85%. so low pressure and not reaching the 600 needed to fire. once it started I limped it home. scaned it with my Auto Enginuity and it didn't show any codes.
So that much I can see I have a leak on the HPO system. but I done a lot of work to the truck about 2-3 years ago. roughly 80k-100k miles since the work. what I done included...
OEM oil cooler
OEM (updated)dummy plugs, standpipes & STC fitting
OEM head gaskets and ARP studs
BPD EGR cooler (I should have deleted)
ALL other engine gaskets(Bed plate, oilpan, front&rear cover, ect.)
OEM glow plugs and harness
OEM blue spring upgrade
Cleaned turbo veins
2 OEM REMAN injectors. (cant remember which two) had contribution codes one on each side.
This is all I can remember right now. Now have yall seen the updated dummy plugs and standpipes leak? I have not pulled valve covers to air test the HPO system yet.(don't have my air compressor at my new house yet). Here is what I have done so far:
Fully charged batteries.
I did do a bubble test. pulled upper fuel filter cover off and removed filter topped the bowl off and turned engine over using the wire by the passenger side battery. some bubbles but not a bubble bath.
Checked fuel pressure (not running) its 60psi. did not start truck because I need a different fitting so I can run the truck and check pressure while running.
while doing the bubble test I could hear that one cylinder is low on compression. but I do not have any misfire or contribution codes.
when I ran contribution test on AE its not showing any particular cylinder lower than the rest. but the line is not very solid at all.
Here is what I plan to do.
Compression test on each cylinder.
Looking at the Harbor freight kit. Looks like it has fittings for glow plug and injector holes.
If I can do compression test on both glow plug and injector holes this should show weather my injector orings are the cause of the low compression.
Then I have to airtest the HPO system and find the leak.
Am I on the right track? what else should I check? Guess I should add that the truck currently has 297K miles.
I got a deal on a1997 f450 7.3 what does it take to swap to 2001 f250 7.3.mine has a bad cylinder with smoking nd low compression.
View 5 Replies2003 f350 dually. Fully bulletproofed about 10k miles ago. Everything was running great for about 5k miles. A friend of mine got stuck and I went to pull him out. Got him out but got on it really hard...never overheated or anything.
Next day truck throws a cyLinder 5 contribution balance code. Ran ok but idled rough. Pulled injector and put a used one from a running truck in it. Code went away and runing fine for a few weeks. Took a long trip from FL to Texas, and on the way home same code occurred but idle was not as bad. I would clear the code and it would be fine for a few hundred miles, then would show up again. Made it home, still was driving around town a little with the code only showing sometimes. A couple blocks away from home taking off from a stop sign lost all power and motor shut off. Turned out the Injector o ring blew and hydrolocked the motor.
So now, ordered all new 155cc30% injectors , 58v ficm and new oem injector harness. Installed and Drove the truck to Illinois. After about 700 miles I noticed a little rough idle and had a cylinder 4 cont code. Made to Illinois and back to fl. At fl line I had cyld. 4 and 5 codes now. Cleared and cyld 4 was gone but 5 stayed. Got home and balance test showed 4 and 5 bad injectors. Sent them off to be fixed just got them back in. Truck started fine, smooth idle, ran for about 10 miles and cyld 5 code come back and so does the rough idle. I'm at a loss now.
Will be doing compression test tomorrow. Other than a rough idle truck runs flawless, will roast the tires and pull anything hooked to it. No hot starts, no symptoms of anything else. Possibly a problem with the oil rail feed on that cylinder? Main ficm harness? Bent pushrod?
I have a 06 f250 with 135k that I keep getting a #2 contribution code. Power balance shows cylinder 2 low as well. No circuit codes and everything sounds good on a buzz test. Valvetrain is actuating as expected. I changed all 8 injectors w/ motorcraft with no luck. I get over 300 psi on a compression test ( 175 psi on 1st stroke then maxed my gauge on the 2nd). It smokes until I disable cylinder 2 then it pretty much clears up. I did notice I could move the top of the valve stems about 1/16", this seems really sloppy. Very little blow by and the oil cap stays on up side down until it rattles off. Any other 8 deal other than pulling the heads? I just bought this truck and have little history on it.
View 12 RepliesI would like the hear what others have to say about the problems I'm having with my 2006 F-350 sd xlt 6.0 with 113,000 miles on it. It's being used as a tool truck mostly going from a shop on the property to close by buildings on the same property. In other words very short distances. Used occasionally to take a dump trailer to a close by dumping ground.
1. White smoke from exhaust. I've read this is most likely an ERG cooler that needs replacing. Any other possible causes? If I end up having to replace the cooler is there a stock cooler that is reliable or should I get the one by bullet proof?
2. Diesel is dripping from the muffler weep hole. Last full tank lasted only 60 miles. Could this be the oil cooler? Anything else? If so is the Ford replacement cooler OK or should I go with an upgraded cooler?
It's at 65k miles, was sitting around for half a year with a previous owner. Started with hpo issue that I seem to have resolved with new ipr. I'm also doing injector seals, nipple cups and dummy plugs in the meantime to seal off the system.
I had ran a compression test with a 300psi gauge on a couple cylinders as I was changing glow plugs and harness, and they showed above 350 psi. A couple others showed barely 150, so I figured I blew up the gauge. That's when I went and bought a harbor freight diesel gauge and while I was waiting for the otc adapter whip to come in I took apart the oil rail and was getting ready to do injector seals and nipple cups.
I have now tested all the cylinders with the proper gauge but only to get the same dreadful result low compression ranging from 150-200 and rising 50 only with a bit of oil added to the cylinder.
If I don't have compression I'm obviously not going to get it to start although everything else showed up good on the torque gauges before it was apart. Why I don't have compression on any cylinders? I'm getting a new compression gauge today just in case, but seems unlikely it's the gauge.
So this '06 F350 is blowing fluid from the steering pump fitting when you move steering wheel to either side all the way(lock). Is the internal o-ring blown in the fitting? Do these have the teflon seal at the pump? Pretty new to the 6.0 scene. Got a new line ordered.
View 6 RepliesI have a 06 f350 superduty with a 6.0 I have had injector problems before with the motor even hydro locking no start this is the problem my truck started blowing white smoke with a strong diesel smell everyone said it was oil cooler but I took it to a ford garage the guy said I had 2 injectors hung open and wasn't hydro locking and suggested to put all 8 in so I did 3400.00 not I went to pick it up had no power at all turbo was not kicking in so I took it right back to them they checked it out said turbo was sticking had to clean it it would take 6 hrs. said the fuel In the motor caused it it was working fine when I took it to them now they say maybe a new turbo are they giving me the run around or is this possible....
View 9 RepliesI have a 2006 f350 4x4 dually 6.0. The other morning when leaving for work I hard a loud air noise, like a jet. It only happens when the motor is trying to create boost. I have NO boost. No smoke. If I push the fuel pedal past 1/4, nothing. Its like its stuck and no more power at all. I have changed the boot from the turbo to the intercooler pipe. (looked like it had cracks in it). Checked the cold pipe, no cracks seen. Check the exhaust clamps, into the turbo, they are tight. The turbo is seeping oil around the seal. I took the inlet, fresh air, pipe off. Check the turbo spool for looseness, fins, spun the wheel, ran the engine and watch to wheel. Seen no issues. Where to go now?? No coolant leaks, no oil leaks.
View 7 RepliesMy dad recently bought 2006 6.0. He has had it about 2 and half months. Has the egr delete kit installed. The truck has ran great. Up until Wednesday the 3rd. My dad headed to Ut to pick up our new quads. While heading up a small grade with empty trailer in tow. Truck went to limp mode, fan kicked on, orange wrench came on on dash board. He pulled over let her cool down turned her off.
Checked fluids Then started her back up and she was fine. That has happened 3 times. Now he is on his way back (tow haul mode turned on) and it is doing it again. She hasn't went into limp mode yet. As soon as the fan kicks in my dad pulls over immediately and puts it in park. And lets her cool down checks fluids. This issue only happens mid way up a grade. So my question is...... What is causing this? How do we fix her and make her a happy truck again.
I drive an 06 f350 with a 6.0 diesel. My truck has quit on me twice in two months. It lost power then stalled and would not restart. I had just changed fuel filters but checked them anyway to see if they were plugged. They looked clean so i put them back in and the truck fired up. It ran good then two months later it did the same thing.
I noticed I could not hear the fuel pump so i pulled the cap off if the top fuel filter to see if there was fuel in it, and heard air being sucked in (or pushed out?) as i loosened the cap. I put the cap back on then turned the key and i could hear the fuel pump working. I waited for glow plugs and it fired up. Is my engine getting vapor locked, or sucking air? If so then why would it only happen every now and then instead of continuously?
This truck is bone stock FYI. I get in it to crank it and I get nothing. Batteries are good, everything in the cluster lights up, and looks normal. No codes are thrown. I can hear the solenoids click under the dash and hood. I check the voltage of ignition cable at the starter and I get no reading.
There is a single thick yellow with light blue stripe coloured wire on the passenger side of the engine compartment, beside the vacuum pump with a "squeeze and pull" type disconnect. Disconnect it, and connect the male half of the connector to the passenger side battery positive terminal. Do this with the ignition key in the RUN position. Does the truck start?
This is where it gets weird. The truck does start and after i reconnect the wire it it starts normal. I started it several times throughout the day. The next morning I get in the truck. No start. I have to use the wire and manually connect it to the battery and it starts right up again. This time I get a "Tow/Haul" light blinking on the dash. It will go into gear but pressing the acceleration pedal does nothing. I turn it back off, attempt to start it normally and it starts right up. No it will go into gear and drive. Now I am thinking maybe the neutral safety switch?
Could it be a solenoid sticking or the neutral safety switch or something else entirely?
I have a 2006 6.0l f350 crew cab that blows air hard every time I accelerate. Sounds like you're going 100mph with the hood unlatched. It blows real hard for a minute and goes away if I accelerate through it or let off.
View 7 RepliesI was just wondering, is it normal when plowing to get stuck in the snow? Last year I got stuck and had to get pulled out, yesterday I got stuck again and when I have it in 4x4 hi, one front and one rear wheel spins. 4x4 low, the opposite front and opposite rear spin from hi. I want ALL 4 WHEELS TO SPIN! I'd NEVER get stuck if that happened! How do I get that to happen? I hear of a detroit locker. Do you need one for each wheel? I always thought as I was flying past everyone in the snow with a huge smile on my face, that all of my wheels were powered.
View 14 RepliesWent today to check out a buddy's truck, 06 F350 164k egr and cooler delete. He finally did his thermostat yesterday, after not having warm heat for months. Today on the way to work, had great heat for about 10 miles, then it went cold. Pulled over to check coolant, cracked cap loose, let pressure out, now had heat again. Same thing on the way home. Had the white streaks down from the cap, lost a small amount of coolant, just at min line now. He's owned this truck since 48k and no heads have never been off.
View 8 Replies2006 F350 6.0 ... I am piling up parts for a bulletproof party later this summer. It has gotten grumpy ahead of schedule. I will hook up the AE tomorrow for consultation.
In the meantime. Running rough at 50. Seems to accelerate from a stop semi ok. Sitting at idle, holding rpm at 1750 I hear kind of a thump under the hood and the rpm drops 300, then slowly finds it way back to 1750 and it repeats itself.
This thump has not been noticed in the past. Could this be the VGT not working as expected?
I have a 2006 F-350 4x4 CC LB. I recently had my check engine light come on coincidentally on my way to the auto parts store. Asked them to plug in the scanner and read the code. It had around 20! This truck has 40000 miles on it. All of the codes were dealing with injector voltage being low. All eight cylinders. So I'm thinking ficm is going out. I replaced the batteries shortly after this. I driven it a time or two after this and it started cutting in an out going down the road. Seemed down a few cylinders for a few seconds and pouring black smoke from the tailpipe of a stick truck. Made it home after it did this there times. Stated it up to move it a few days ago. Some white smoke that clears quickly and ran rough for a few, pulled it in gear surged forward and died. I cleaned the EGR valve and re o ringed it. Tested the drivers side pin on the FICM and have 47-48 volts with key on and cranking.
View 4 RepliesI recently purchased a 2006 f350 with 6.0 power stroke. I drove it approx 15 miles shut the truck off, let it sit for approx 3 he's. Then I drove another 15 miles and shut it off. When I went back to it. To start it up would not start. The dealer said brand new injectors when I bought the truck. I tried to start it for approx ten min. I didn't want to bog down the battery. So when it wouldn't start I sprayed a shot of starting fluid and it took right off. But when you shut it off it won't start again.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2006 F350 with around 208k mikes, automatic with a no start, 0 No FICM Sync.
The CMP and CKP has "no / 0" for synchronization and a "NO" synchronization from the FICM. Should this be "yes / 1" when trying to start?
The camshaft position sensor status indicated "yes fault".
FICM is at 48V,
DTC currently on
P2614 camshaft position signal output/open circuit - CMP
Glow plug circuit cylinder 2, 4, 5, 6 (these have been on for 12months and 1,000 miles and never had an issue starting)
B1352 - left front temperature damper motor
B1360 - left rear temperature damper motor
U1900 - CAN - communication BUS fault
I am running all OEM filters
I for the life of me can not even see the bolts to take them off.
2006 F350 4X4