Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2006 F350 - High Voltage Blanks Instrument Cluster
Nov 16, 2015
Got in my 06 F350 dually 2 weeks ago and after start up had no instrument indications. Truck ran great, flat line on panel. Tow haul light out also. Drove it for appx 5 miles, shazam all start working and then they cycled on and off for a while. After 10 miles, came on solid. Happened again at a later date.
Here's what I discovered. I noticed high voltage on my Scangage II. As in 16.2VDC. Monitored it coming back from a hunt. 14.9-15.5VDC. Would blank out only after hitting 16.2VDC. I'm suspecting there might be a cutout to protect the instrument cluster from damage.
Installed a new alternator on Friday the 13th. Drove home this weekend, 4 hours and no problems. Hopefully didn't boil off the batteries. Now 13.5-13.9VDC ... Just something to be aware of!!
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I've been searching for instructions/procedure on how to remove the instrument cluster on my 2006 6.0 Superduty. My odometer has been showing the classic signs of a cold solder joint, cutting in and out constantly. It's been doing this for a couple of years, and I've taken it to the dealership, since it's still under warranty, however they were not able to find the problem since they were not able to witness the lighting go off and on. I figured I'd just do it myself and not even bother with the dealership if I don't have to. I've read the threads on how to fix the issue, however, everything I've found is for 2004 or older models. Are there any threads specific to the 2006? Or, is the instrument cluster on the 2006 the same as another year model? Maybe I can find this info. there.
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I have a 2006 F-350 4x4 CC LB. I recently had my check engine light come on coincidentally on my way to the auto parts store. Asked them to plug in the scanner and read the code. It had around 20! This truck has 40000 miles on it. All of the codes were dealing with injector voltage being low. All eight cylinders. So I'm thinking ficm is going out. I replaced the batteries shortly after this. I driven it a time or two after this and it started cutting in an out going down the road. Seemed down a few cylinders for a few seconds and pouring black smoke from the tailpipe of a stick truck. Made it home after it did this there times. Stated it up to move it a few days ago. Some white smoke that clears quickly and ran rough for a few, pulled it in gear surged forward and died. I cleaned the EGR valve and re o ringed it. Tested the drivers side pin on the FICM and have 47-48 volts with key on and cranking.
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My 06 instrument cluster has a few bulbs that are out. I have seen the video on how to remove and send off to be repaired but have not seen any thing on how to replace bulbs. Is this something that I can do myself? Is there "kit" to replace all the bulbs? Where can I get the bulbs? Here is a pic of my panel.....
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Is there one fuse for the entire instrument cluster? Because today the entire instrument cluster went dead, even the digital odometer part. Hoping it is just a simple blown fuse...
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I have a 2013 F250 with 49.575 miles and Saturday the truck left me stranded. I was towing my small trailer and doing about 45 mph.....When just out of nowhere .....I got every possible warning come across my display and none of my instruments were working. That included speedo,tach,boost....even the radio and ac were effected in some way. So after a few miles I was able to pull over ....cut the truck off and it wouldn't start.... So I had Ford roadside service tow it to my home dealership.
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I just bought this 2006 f350 lariat. The instrument cluster, radio, pwr windows (and prob other things) will go dead intermittently. No rime or reason, some days no prob, others, several time a day. Always come back by itself, cycling the power has no effect. I if it is shut down during a no power episode it will not run right till the power comes back to the dash, radio, windows. Looking on line seems to be a common problem with the "retained power accessory relay" circuit in the instrument cluster. I found nothing on a DIY fix...
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So, went to drive the truck (2004 F250 6.0, 145000 mi) yesterday and the right half of my instrument cluster was not working (tach, trans temp and water temp), CEL and check gauges lights on. My scan gauges gives me readouts of all 3, so I know the computer knows the right values. Pulled all three fuses related to the cluster, all looked good. All gauges, including those not working, did full sweeps with key on after putting fuses back, so I know they function. Also, the glow plug light stays on way longer than normal.
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My right side of my instrument cluster is not working. the Tachometer, Engine Temp and Trans Temp gauge are non responsive, and the CEL and Check gauge light is on. I have seen other posts with people that had the same problem but no solution to what fixed the problem. 2004 F250 Lariat.
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Pulled the trigger today and bought a 2004 F350 DRW King Ranch with 200000 miles. Using Forscan Lite on my iPhone, KOEO FICM voltage was right at 48. During start it went up a bit. While out for my highway road test for EOT/ECT differential (never went above 10 degrees).
I noticed that the FICM voltage would drop to the bottom of the Forscan scale (40 volts) when I was accelerating and then go back to 47.5 when I reached my cruising speed. Is this normal?
Batteries are brand new from Ford. I didn't notice the battery voltage. Truck seems to run great to me, but this is my first 6.0. I also got DTC's for all 8 injectors saying Injector Circuit Low.
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My truck is a 2005 f350 6.0, all stock except for an egr delete and 4 inch cat back exhaust. I recently did an oil cooler replacement and egr delete, resealed all 8 injectors, and fixed some wire chaffing at the FICM. it's running great with the exception of idling. It seems like it's idling low but the gauge stays at 750. If I hit the high idle switch, it does fine. Red lights are stressful because it shakes and sounds like it's going to die but never does. I'm posting screenshots of my Torque pro.
I have a SC2 as well but I honestly like Torque better so that's what I use most. I know my ICP is low, but 8 don't know why. No oil in the connector, and no change when I unplug it. The ICP sensor may be a month old with 1000 miles on it. This was taken at a hot startup, sitting in park. When i say hot, I mean I had driven about 60 miles. This is sitting still in drive. ICP voltage finally climbs over 1.0 when i get going about 15mph at around 1250 rpm. The second pic the ICPV is actually higher than normal. It usually stays at .8 until I give it gas.
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I have a 2012 F350 XLT that came out of Canada. So of course the speedometer is in KM. (Large numbers are km and smaller numbers are mph). I am trying to find out if I can simply change out my cluster with a mph cluster???
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I was installing a brake controller and repair wiring at the seven pin today for a customer and noticed when I began work I have no power windows, power seats, or instrumentation on the dash. Truck otherwise runs fine.
Got wiring for the brake controller straightened out and thought I could get the other stuff working, but I went through all the fuses and could find nothing amiss. Several comments on the Internet about a power saver relay board built into the back of the instrument cluster. Does that fit these symptoms?
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I have a 04 F350 Dually and I am not getting any oil to my high oil pressure. Truck will crank but won't turn over. The high oil pressure pump is fine. What am I missing?
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On my 2005 F350 Super duty 6.0 Power Stroke Diesel I have extremely high oil temps when towing and also have a warm start problem. I need to tackle both these problems at the same time but I am struggling to find the correct (and still affordable) parts for this. My local parts store and Ford dealer are way over priced.
First, I need an oil cooler (truck has an EGR delete so no EGR cooler).
Second, I want to replace all the seals in the high pressure oil system and replace the HPOP elbow.(Already replaced IPR)
Third, I would like to do the Blue Spring update as well while I am in there.
Looking for part numbers or kits numbers. I usually do all my own research but right now I am way too swamped at work and home to find these parts.
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Was driving my truck normal, got to a stop and the truck staring to idle high and like stuck on third gear and also the tow light (over drive) started to flashing Is like the truck put it self on safe mod. Drove it back home but couldn't do more than 55 miles n hour so I didn't hurt the trans.
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I would like the hear what others have to say about the problems I'm having with my 2006 F-350 sd xlt 6.0 with 113,000 miles on it. It's being used as a tool truck mostly going from a shop on the property to close by buildings on the same property. In other words very short distances. Used occasionally to take a dump trailer to a close by dumping ground.
1. White smoke from exhaust. I've read this is most likely an ERG cooler that needs replacing. Any other possible causes? If I end up having to replace the cooler is there a stock cooler that is reliable or should I get the one by bullet proof?
2. Diesel is dripping from the muffler weep hole. Last full tank lasted only 60 miles. Could this be the oil cooler? Anything else? If so is the Ford replacement cooler OK or should I go with an upgraded cooler?
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I am currently converting a 1999 E350 7.3 diesel bus into a camper to live in. The bus has already had a lot of weird custom work. Done by someone else and a lot of the interior torn out and extra insulation put in. There is an exposed electrical panel behind the drivers seat. It was a cheap buy, previously fleet maintained with only 120k.
I was hooking up a battery for accessories to a terminal labeled "Battery" that does run indeed directly to the + terminal of the battery in the engine compartment.
Unfortunately I mistakenly connected the accessory battery to a terminal labeled "ignition" that runs to behind the dash. When I tried starting the vehicle off the auxiliary battery for a test everything went out for 2 seconds, I heard a click from the engine compartment, and everything than came back on. This is when I realized my mistake.
It used to be the speedo only didn't work (which I assumed was the step motor), now after this mistake all the gauges, the odometer and the buzzers don't work. Lights like the battery and airbag warning indicator still function.
Checked fuse 2 (15 amp) for the instrument cluster and it is intact. Actually checked every fuse in the vehicle in both fuse panels and all are intact. The radio works though and the vehicle is not equipped with power windows.
Going to go get a radio removal tool to take apart the dash and get back there. What this could be? Did I fry a relay? Did I fry the cluster circuit board.
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I'm having a little problem with my F350. I've had it for about a month now and the cluster had no problems or whatsoever. Then, I drove it today and I noticed that the instrument cluster is not working at all. The lights work, but the gauges wouldn't move. When I turn the key before starting it the chime is beeping faster than it usually did before and it wouldn't shut off unless I close the door. It also only indicates the airbag and battery light. I checked all the fuses and they were good especially #15 or #16 can't remember it right now.
I don't know if its related, but this past saturday I was messing with the overhead instrument cluster for the gas mileage and all that. I soldered some of the relays back on and that was it. I started the truck after I did all that, but everything was still working. It's been bugging me all day today.
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So this '06 F350 is blowing fluid from the steering pump fitting when you move steering wheel to either side all the way(lock). Is the internal o-ring blown in the fitting? Do these have the teflon seal at the pump? Pretty new to the 6.0 scene. Got a new line ordered.
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I have a 06 f350 superduty with a 6.0 I have had injector problems before with the motor even hydro locking no start this is the problem my truck started blowing white smoke with a strong diesel smell everyone said it was oil cooler but I took it to a ford garage the guy said I had 2 injectors hung open and wasn't hydro locking and suggested to put all 8 in so I did 3400.00 not I went to pick it up had no power at all turbo was not kicking in so I took it right back to them they checked it out said turbo was sticking had to clean it it would take 6 hrs. said the fuel In the motor caused it it was working fine when I took it to them now they say maybe a new turbo are they giving me the run around or is this possible....
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