Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2006 F350 - Head Gasket Replacement
Sep 25, 2016
I'm going to be doing head gaskets on my 2006 F350 6.0. I know I need the head bolt tool and head lifting fixture. I have the tool to release the injector wiring plug from the head. Are there any other specialty tools I need? I saw in Hot Rod magazine a few months ago there was a new head gasket for the 6.0. Unfortunately I don't have the magazine anymore. I can't remember the brand of gasket. I know everyone in the past has said use OEM Ford head gaskets. Lastly, can I do the head gasket job and put studs in without pulling the cab or HVAC box?
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So, I blew my head gasket and have been looking for what to replace it with. From what I've seen, just an OEM gasket would be best.? I'm also putting ARP studs in it, unless there's another brand I should put in it.
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Truck is a 2006 F-350 6.0, ARP studs, Ford Head Gaskets, Bullet Proof Diesel Oil Cooler Kit and EGR with an SCT tuner on tow mode.
Towing approx 15,000 pounds noticed truck started to lose power and misfire. Pulled over and noticed engine oil all over the driver side on engine, looks like it sprayed to top of engine as well. Oil on valve cover, FICM, exhaust manifold. I looked under the truck and saw that oil is all over bottom of the truck, differential covered in oil as well. Looks like blue smoke coming from tailpipe and smells of oil burning. Cannot tell where oil originated from.
I removed the EGR Valve, to see if there was moisture on the valve and when I looked into the intake manifold there is engine oil pooled in the bottom of the intake manifold and on the EGR Valve.
This is not dirty water from soot, it is oil. Truck is misfiring, with no codes being thrown. I noticed a small amount of white residue around the radiator cap however I had just filled up the reservoir, week prior. I unfortunately do not have gauges in the truck and rely on the factory gauges; coolant temps did not rise or move at all when this happened. I am not sure if I blew a head gasket, and really confused on how engine oil got into the intake manifold. I ran the engine with the air filter removed and can see blue smoke coming out of the CCV and oil in residue in front of the turbo inlet.
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Is the A/C condenser pretty simple to replace on the 2006 F350? Replaced the compressor but then noticed the condenser was leaking. Looks simple just wondering if there are any quirks to it.
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My 2004 6.0 has lost some power and the head gasket is leaking into the coolant. How long can i continue to drive the truck before too much damage is done to the engine?
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I just did head studs, gaskets, egr delete, oil cooler, hpop, up pipes, exhaust, and turbo rebuild on my 03' 6.0. I started the truck and it ran kind of rough but I figured it was air in the oil. Then I heard a choppy sound from the tailpipe and my first thought was bent pushrod. I let the truck run for a couple of minutes while I looked and listened to the engine and it seemed alright but I shut it down to pull valve covers. I had a code for cylinder 5 contrabalance so I started there.
The pushrod was definitely bent so I ordered one and threw it in. The truck runs amazing now compared to anytime I have ever heard it run, and all rockers move as it looks like they should but I still do have popping through the intake. I took cylinder 5 pushrod back out and I think the gasket bent from when the pushrod bent the first time. Even though the rocker is moving I think the bent gasket is pushing the pushrod on the side of the lifter maybe? The guide in the gasket is folded over and I don't know how the hell to bend it back besides a screwdriver.
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Early 04 but 06 motor, Coolant filter, BPD EGR cooler, Head studs. I did use the search tool, overloaded with EGR cooler leaks and head gasket failure in the results.
Noticed ECT Spiking 217 (EOT 187)as went to post office,10 min run time from a cold start. Checked Degas a bit low, did my business and went home. Got home ECT 223 EOT(221) zero coolant in Degas and notice this mess. as well as puddling up under radiator.
I left the truck running and added some water to the degas hoping I could spot the leak, no love.
On our trucks do we have a weep hole for the water pump? I didn't notice any water or stains around it or the pulley. Nothing around the hoses either... yet.
Once it cools I am going to pull the fan shroud and look for a possible hole in radiator. Are there any other suspect areas?
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I LOVE my Super Duty and with only 15k on it (have a company truck) plan on keeping it for a long time. I've had an EGR Delete and new Oil Cooler along with some misc things done to the engine and turbo, about 6g's worth. Now my mechanic at NCB is telling me that the reason I'm loosing coolant is that my head gaskets are leaking. I'm looking at another 5-7 grand which is a no go for me. I'm thinking of doing the work myself, especially since I've seen where i don't have to remove the body to do it.
Okay, here is the question, I've been having a hard time finding a comprehensive list of the parts I should be getting to do the job. Looking for a list or link on what I need to do it correctly and anything I might want to do while my engine is apart so I don't have to do this again?
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So I'll give a little history. Had blown head gaskets so I tackled that got it back together and now I can't get it to start. I have a monitor but it won't tell me if I have ficm sync. I have 1500 psi cop reading. I have spinning it over far 15 to 20 minutes. I'm using a bluetooth scanner and a app on my phone. I have no codes thrown or anything else. Do I keep cranking on it or am i missing something.
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I am replacing the head gaskets on a 2006 Ford F250 6.0 .... I have heard that I should replace the head bolts with studs. Do I torque the studs just like the bolts?
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Are you supposed to reuse the old metal gasket or leave it out?
2006 F350 4X4
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I've been fighting some issues with my 05 f350 6.0 I'm pretty sure I have it narrowed down to a failed central junction box. I have no power to the pcm. I bought a used one off ebay that was supposed to fit my truck but some fuse/relay locations are different. All the plugs on the backside appear to be correct though. Do I need to get a fuse box that is the exact same part number that is currently in my truck? 2C7T-140A067-AN is the part number of the one in my truck. Or can I use the one I bought?
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I recently had my injectors changed at Ford and while I was driving it started dumping coolant. If the leak can be cause from the injector replacement or if they didn't put something back together right... 2005 f 350 6.0...
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I have a 2006 6.0 that i did head gaskets on about a year ago. While I was in there I put some new pistons a valves in as well. I finished doing the job and it started and ran great just smoking a little bit. Test drove it a couple of times and still seemed great but still smoking. (white smoke) about a week went by with me driving the truck then one day driving to work I parked it then all of a sudden the truck shut off like some one hit the key and wouldn't restart after that. Either doesn't work i put a ficm in it before the head gaskets went out. new HPOP before head gaskets. I get oil pressure in the dash but it takes a long time to build up. cranks like a dream but doesn't even try to fire.
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Attempting to take this on myself. My passenger side manifold was replaced a year ago.....BTW This damn truck - all stock - no modifications of any kind - just turned 100k miles. One owner - me.
So I have removed everything I think I need to to gain reasonable access including the fenderwell and all the intake tubes and battery and coolant reservoir. I want to use some heat and try not to break the bolts but there is a thin wiring harness just above the exhaust manifold. I can't find it in any diagrams on the ford parts site. It looks like the glow plug and injector harnesses are up above near the intake manifold but this one is down below all that. It connects to small rubber thing - 1 for each cylinder. There is nothing else electrical near it - everything else is up top.
Now my rant - look away if you are a die hard ford truck fan or 6.0L powerstroke fan.
So far I've had to replace both exhaust manifolds because they burned and rusted right through. New transmission cooler lines -yes - rusted through and cooler (because we couldn't get the lines off without destroying the cooler). Cat got clogged (that was fun to find and fix). All 4 front ball joints replaced. Transmission dip stick tube rusted through. Several brake lines had to be replaced due to rust. The air conditioner quit with about 80k miles. I haven't fixed that yet. My oil pan is rusting through and needs replacement. Friggin oil pan! I have never in my long life experienced that. I know of other diesel pickups that are older with far more miles that live in the northeast, used for plowing and never garaged that don't have their oil pans rusting through. Just had to change both power steering lines that go to the gearbox due to leak caused by rusting through. EGR needs to be cleaned or replaced almost as often as the oil need changing. This POS needs to be out of my life!
Too bad because if it was dependable and wasn't made out of the cheapest crappy metal Ford could find it would be a great truck. Rides and hauls great. Plows great. Good looking truck, too. Standard cab 8 foot bed. Dark green. Just can't keep doing this.
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I would like the hear what others have to say about the problems I'm having with my 2006 F-350 sd xlt 6.0 with 113,000 miles on it. It's being used as a tool truck mostly going from a shop on the property to close by buildings on the same property. In other words very short distances. Used occasionally to take a dump trailer to a close by dumping ground.
1. White smoke from exhaust. I've read this is most likely an ERG cooler that needs replacing. Any other possible causes? If I end up having to replace the cooler is there a stock cooler that is reliable or should I get the one by bullet proof?
2. Diesel is dripping from the muffler weep hole. Last full tank lasted only 60 miles. Could this be the oil cooler? Anything else? If so is the Ford replacement cooler OK or should I go with an upgraded cooler?
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Vehicle 2007 Ford Explorer Sport Trac with 4.6L
Ok, just did a head gasket replacement. Everything is now hooked back up. Now when we try to restart the car, we get lights, but nothing from the starter. Also the OBDII code puller can't communicate with the car. Also the security light flashes very fast when you try to start.
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I need walked through the take down to replace the head gasket on an 05 mountaineer with a 4.0. I've never worked on one of these so I don't even know. I havent even seen the engine to know where to start.
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From what I understand it should be dry where the valve goes. I would call it moist not wet but fairly moist. The top groove had the most wetness, the middle groove was dry and the bottom was nearly dry. Where do I go from here - the video I watched said to scrape out and vacuum - not dry enough.
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When replacing the power steering pump on my 2006 should I go OEM on the pump or save some money and get a Napa or aftermarket remaned unit with the pulley installed? Also, whar is the fluid capacity of the power steering system?
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2007 Sports Trac .. Does the motor need to be removed to replace head gaskets? 4.0 sohc
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