Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2006 F350 - Clunking When Go From Drive To Reverse And Now With Drive Too
Jun 19, 2015
So I have a 06 350 and I'm getting clunking from drive to reverse and now with drive too, I know my rear diff is on it's last days but I am wondering if that could cause the clunking and now my truck around 90km shakes likes crazy and same thing wana know if that's the diff. And if I was to fix diff myself would it not just be easier for me to just swap axles if I wanted to be cheap??
View 12 Replies
Advertisement
I have a new issue that started last Friday. When I put the truck in gear and let it begin to pull itself, drive or reverse, it has a strange jerking or slipping deal. It doesn't happen every time but when it does you can feel it in the drivetrain. I took it to the shop that did the motor work and they ran a diagnosis(while I watched) on the motor and its turns up nothing. It runs perfect, shifts like it always has, but just has this jerking/slipping thing when I let off the brake and it starts to pull itself.
If I go from brake to throttle its fine. I had the rearend diff worked on to fix the leaky ring and pinion seal and the differential cover sealed at the dealer last month. I searched and don't see anything like what I am experiencing. Could my tranny be giving it up now? It has never been overworked and never overheated. I had the full fluid service done at about 70k and now it has about 130k on it.
View 14 Replies
2011, 69,000 miles. My truck is experiencing very hard shifts from park to drive or park to reverse after a cold soak. It goes away once warmed up. I can't find any excessive driveline play and my transmission fluid level appears fine and in good condition.
The last repair done on my truck was around 7,000 miles ago and it was for a transmission fluid leak around the bell housing. They just replaced the seal between the torque converter and transmission.
View 13 Replies
2003 f350 6.0 diesel, driving on the freeway at 70 mph, all instrumentation went off, the radio went off, the engine was still running fine. While pulling off on the off ramp, when the speed was about 20 mph the rear end jumped up as if the transmission was trying to go into reverse. After traveling about 4 miles at about 15 mph the rear end jumped up about 6 inches and the drive shaft pulled out of the spline and drove itself into the pavement. Why this happened. I have put two new batteries and an alternator in the truck and it has been fine every since, but I am still concerned it may happen again. The truck has a 6 inch lift on it.
View 3 Replies
What is the source of the sound? Listen for the clunk b/w 3 and 4 seconds. I just dropped off my 2016 Super Duty 6.7 CC LB 4x2 at the dealership. I'm afraid that they will say the sound is a characteristic but I never had the sound on my 2011 Super Duty 6.7 CC LB 4x4. This sound happens when I go from drive to reverse or when using the exhaust brake when towing. The sound does not exist when the transmission is cold only when it is fully hot. It will also make this noise when climbing a really steep hill in first gear with fiver and the torque converter needs to slip a little.
As far as I can tell all of the u joints are tight and the axial support is tight I only have 2000 miles on my truck.
[URL] ....
View 5 Replies
I was getting ready to replace the carrier bearing and noticed the rear pinion seal is leaking. Before attempting the replacement myself, I would like some opinions on the noise in the video below. Is this normal? I am confidant I can replace the carrier bearing and pinion seal, but not sure I have the tools for anything else.
YouTube ...
View 4 Replies
First... Items I have replaced:
- New EGR valve
- New sensor
- New Fuel filters
- New Oil filter
Problem:
While driving I have a stumble along with a small amount of black smoke at this time ( was white/bluish smoke ) previous. I have dis-connected the batteries to force the computer to relearn the EGR valve. The turbo spools up .. getting about 20 psi @ hard throttle and then about 5 psi after it goes into the final drive gear. Speaking of which ... the stumble is always worst on the final drive gear...
View 14 Replies
I purchased a 2011 350 crew cab lariat 6.7 diesel last week. That night i noticed that the passenger side map light was considerably dimmer than the drive side. Had to go back to the dealership 2 days later anyways to get a second key made. Showed the tech the light and he gave me 2 new bulbs to replace both lights with. Both were great for about a week but i noticed the passenger side has once again become dim....
View 1 Replies
I have a 2002 f350 7.3. It was running fine 2 days ago. After I put some diesel in it my water in fuel light came on. I drained the water out and took all the fuel out and put fresh diesel in it. It starts up fine and idles okay but when I try to drive it it looses all power and acts like it's starving for fuel and almost dies. It was smoking white smoke for a little bit even after I took all the water out but now it's black. What it could be.
View 9 Replies
2004 Santa Fe, clunking noise in drive or reverse. checked brakes and cv joints, replaced drivers front and still making the noise. Transfer case was a little low on fluid but not much. Put up on stands and turn wheels with no noise. Put in drive or reverse while in the air and rear wheels sit still. It is a 4wd so I would think that all 4 tires would be turning. While in the air the front both turn and no noise is made.
View 18 Replies
I just got myself a 1993 ford explorer and the damn thing won't drive forward but it will drive in reverse. What could be the problem?? I've already drained the Transmission Fluid out & refilled it. My friend told me it is most likely the Neutral Safety Switch but I have no clue where it is located. I will be honest I have absolutely no clue about vehicles.
View 1 Replies
2001 Santa Fe 2.7L 4wd ... In December I bought this vehicle it only has 95K on it. When I drove the car home I noticed it needed brakes so I put brand new pads and rotors on the whole way around. I changed the oil, air filter, wiper blades, and made sure all fluids were good. I had the front spring recall done and also put some new sway bar end links on the front. The car runs fine and I am rather impressed with it. It does have some rust but I'm not to worried about that. This isn't my everyday car just a winter/extra car. Recently I have been getting some clunking only when going from reverse to drive and going slow. You get a clunk..clunk pause clunk..clunk almost like you have a flat but once I get the car up to speed it is fine and you never hear it again until the car sits a day or so and then it will do it again. I don't know if I have a differential problem or a u joint or maybe something with the e brake or rear brakes? but it is -3 right now outside and I would rather know where to start so that when I can take a look at it I know some things to check or what it might be.
View 3 Replies
I have a 2002 7.3 e350 quigley 4x4 Sportsmobile with 312k miles. 2nd owner. Bought it with 295k miles 2 years ago. From what I gathered the tranny is original.
After reversing at a downhill angle, stopping, and shifting the lever to Drive, the tranny doesn't seem to put Drive in gear and depending on the angle of the slope, the van will roll back or barely creeps forward even with throttle. Put it in 1st gear, and the tranny engages that in gear and drives forward no issues, then I can shift to 2nd, then Drive and the tranny shifts fine after that.
No weird tranny noises or clunking. Noticed this issue about a month ago or about a couple thousand miles ago. Did tranny service (drain, filter, fill) at the ford dealership at 305k months ago.
I can only replicate this issue when Reversing on a down slope. On a flat surface van Reverses and engages Drive like normal.
View 7 Replies
I have a 2002 santa fe 2.7. I just had the transmission rebuilt and since then have noticed a clunking sound when I shift into drive or reverse. It seems to be the lower motor mount is making noise from the motor moving the mount. I look at the mount and it appears to look good, but was wondering how I can really tell if a motor mount needs replacing or not.
View 3 Replies
OK, truck is 2000 F350. I am heading on a 2000 mile roadtrip to Yellowstone for my wife's 40th birthday in two days. What was our rock of a vehicle is now causing me severe anxiety.
Over the last few days the truck has been difficult to start - almost stops turning over as if the batteries were low. So I ignored it because if I plug it in, it starts fine and if I drive it and it gets hot - it starts fine.
Tonight while driving - I noticed a high idle and then it went to normal - I thought it was weird and a few miles later at a stop sign it struggled at idle, sort of loping but not romping very high and the over drive light started blinking. When I got home when I went from drive to neutral it goes to high idle and then the overdrive light blinks. The first time it blinked it went off when I pressed the OD button - but now it continues to blink.
Would low batteries be the root cause of this? I will continue my search for blinking OD light but I thought I would get this in the queue in case this is bigger than I can handle. I have 48 hours to resolve this issue - leaving Wednesday early morning.
View 14 Replies
Still having issues with the transmission on my 05 F350. I posted before that it would take a few seconds to go into drive or reverse. The fixes were to change filters and do hot flush. I had the dealer do a hot flush, and then I put about 1000 miles on it. That didn't seem to fix anything, so I went back in and asked for more info. They did not change the filters. I thought they did, but found out they did not after the fact, so I decided to change the filters myself.
The interior filter was easy to change. The fluid was clean, and the magnet had shavings on it but nothing that seemed extraordinary. The exterior filter is impossible to get off. I reviewed posts on here before trying, so first was the impact wrench, then the pipe wrench, then the pipe wrench with a block wedged in to keep the thing from bending, still no luck. The cast nut broke off well before the pipe wrench came out of the drawer. How to get that thing off. I read on here somewhere that no fluid goes through that until 180 degrees, is that correct?
Scanguage says it rarely goes over 160, except for last evening when I was stuck in traffic. It went to 187, with ECT at 208. During this period, traveling under 40 most of the time, the transmission was shifting erratically, to the point I wanted to pull over and allow it to cool down. But traffic broke free, speed went up, and temps went down. Shifting returned to normal, except when trying to engage drive or reverse. The 3-4 second delay persists at any temp, and there doesn't seem to be any slippage. Just delayed and sometimes hard engagements. I'm at a loss for whats wrong.
View 1 Replies
Today I was driving my 04 f350 6.0 I got to a red light when it turned green I hit the accelerator and it would not go it would only go about 10 so I limped to a parking lot and it shut down, it will crank and it sometimes Will start but only rev up to a grand then put in drive and it dies I had someone run me out a new pre programmed FICM and I replaced it right there and still will crank but won't run so I had it towed to a ford dealer and dropped my key in the drop box, what it may be?
View 11 Replies
I have a 2004 6.0 with the 5L110 transfer and torqueshift transmission. While test driving after installing everything, I didn't get 7 ft down the road and the tires locked up and she came to a dead stop. Now I only have reverse but I can still feel the tranny engaging into drive but will not move.
View 2 Replies
I replaced all my shock and the last one front passenger side gave me fits. The lower mounting bolt stripped and I am unable to secure the shock. My question is..is it safe to drive around without the front shock to get over to the parts house? I plan to use back roads and low speeds. 20 mile round trip.
View 6 Replies
If the truck is cold when i put it in drive it engages fine. Drive to the store, start it up again after its warm, I then need to rev to 800 rpm to get it to engage. Once drive is engaged one time i can go from park to drive, rev to drive doesn't matter it works correct every time. Rebuilt the transmission with suncoast kit. New precision industries billet torque converter. New trans pump, new valve body, replaced all pistons and seal rings. Replaced all the solenoids except lo rev and overdrive. Will change those in the next couple days. Side note transmission had this exact issue before i rebuilt it. Exhaust back pressure reads 55 to 60 psi at idle. I replaced sensor, cleaned pipe, and checked the wires for cuts. Previous owner had a smoke switch wired up at some point but he removed it before i bought it. Truck is tuned by innovative, sxt livewire... does the same thing with stock tune.
View 14 Replies
On Saturday I drove my truck 450 miles, all of it towing, in hilly New England. The turbo boost gauge was operating at 20psi or higher for many of the hills, and the 13mpg average was indicative of how hard the truck was working (normally empty I will get 20+). The next day, I drove it about 3 miles and it started a regen. Why? Wouldn't it have been passively regenerating for most of those miles? A steady 75mph for hours at a time?
View 14 Replies
