Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2006 F350 - Check Engine Light That Came On / EGR Volts Weak
Nov 25, 2016
Truck had a check engine light that came on. Plugged in scanner while I was still running it, said egr volts were weak, i just cleaned it yesterday.. and earlier today reset the check engine light once but then drove about 30 miles with no reoccurrence of light. Now i pulled over, shut off truck unplugged egr and reconnected. Went back to start my truck and nothing at all. Its like I am trying to start it in park.....been here for about 3 hrs now I've checked fuses nothing is blown. I am just sitting here freezing trying to fig out anything i can on line....... Its a 2006 f350 6.0 ty
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I just picked up a 2011 Ford F350 about 8 months ago. I have had troubles with the check engine light coming and going. Now it's been on for good with loss of power. I have had the codes read and they came up as the p0401 and a code about the def heater. I can not remember that code off the top of my head. After some searching I have found a video about the def heater but nothing about the Egr cooler/valve. Is there anything out there about how to clean and remove the the cooler as I will be needing to do repairs myself as the truck has no warranty.
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So; I bought my 07 f350 6.0 the other day. I have a light on that sends a code for glow plug control module, but the truck starts fine, the same in cold temperatures as warm, so far nothing below 32 degrees though. I dont have the code # at the moment, but will update when i get the scanner back. Why this module is throwing a red flag?
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I have a 2006 f250 with 120k. I am having trouble getting the water in fuel light off. I drainned the water out and replaced both filters and the fuel water sensor. The check engine light is now on and the water in fuel light is as well. I'm stumped and can't figure out what to do next. Will the check engine light come on as well with the water in fuel light or is it two different problems?
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Friday I pulled my steel gn 3 horse trailer about an hour each way. with the horses it weighs right at 7000 pounds. no issues. Saturday morning I drove to town, no issues. Saturday evening, I got in it to run down the road and about 2 miles from the house, the check engine light came on and the tow haul light started flashing and the temp gauge is dead. drives and shifts normal, tow haul button still functions. Truck is stock except for an EGR delete. No tuner, FICM was rebuilt. I had it on a battery minder before I left and was thinking about pulling the batteries and letting it sit for a while to see if it clears. Scan Gauge II shows no codes.
Sunday: So I let it sit all night, batteries connected and it was completely normal this morning. will see what happens when I drive it to work tomorrow
Later Sunday evening: So I just took it out for a test drive, went a couple miles down the road, shifting normal for a cold start. Temp gauge is working, just as I am almost back home. 5 miles at the most, temp is coming up to normal, gauge goes dead and check gauge light comes on and tow haul starts flashing. I think it might be the sensor.
This morning: I got about 6 or 7 miles from home, trans just got up to temp, pulling up a hill, it shifted out of overdrive, tft gauge went dead, check gauge light came on and the tow haul light started flashing. still shifts like it always has and the tow haul button still functions.
I am thinking it is just the temp sensor. Truck has 159k on it.
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My truck is a 2004 F350 6.0 as with most of the ford diesels from this era it has hydro boot brakes.
Under normal braking the truck felt fine and the brakes behaved as they always have. However if you where to depress the brakes hard, as if making an emergency stop, the brakes would not lock up in the way they did when I bought the truck two years and 80,000km ago. The problem was slow to appear and at first I blamed it on the larger tiers I was running (stock 2012 F350 wheels and tires (yes the offset is wrong)) but after switching back to my stock wheels for the winter I knew that something was not right. It was something I could live with, it did not make the tuck unsafe it was just that it did not stop as well as I knew it could and this avowed me. I replaced the front and rear calipers and when that had no effect I swapped out the master cylinder this still made little difference.
I drove the company truck all of last month (2008 GMC 2500 Duramax) and when I got back in mine I realised that I had to chase down the problem. I did a lot of reading online and after thoroughly flushing and bleeding my brake system I narrowed my problem down to either the hydro booster or the power steering pump. The plan we came up with for diagnosing was:
1. Thoroughly inspect for PS/Hydro boost and brake fluid leaks following the procedure found here Hydro-Boost Power Assist Systems: Operation Diagnosis and Repair
1a. Consider bleeding the brakes as a bit of trapped air would cause your symptoms.
1.b Consider flushing the PS system. Some suggest this works with tough steering.
2. Have a shop check the PS pressure is within spec. (assuming this is cheaper than buying the tool or just replacing the pump) If it is low, replace the PS pump.
3. If PS pump is fine, or is replaced and the problem is still there, consider replacing the Hydro booster.
It is not super complete but it was a place to start. We checked for leaks and found nothing. The pedal would not sink under braking but would say firm meaning the brake system was free of leaks.
I began a rudimentary test of power steering pump. With the truck in the drive way I could easily turn the steering wheel however, applying the breaks about half way would make turning the wheel imposable. This led me to believe the power steering pump was starting to go. The next step would be to have the pump tested using a power steering pressure gage or take the truck to a shop to have it tested. I found the pressure gage to be more expensive then the new pump so went that way. With 350,000km on the truck I figured it was not a bad thing to do even if it turned out to not be the cause of the problem.
It is a bit tricky to get the power steering pump out but after pulling the radiator line under the truck I could drop the pump out the bottom. The new pump went back in the same way and after a full flush and bleed of the system it was time for a test. What a difference! The truck stops like the day I got it. If your symptoms are like mine I would recommend you check the power steering pump. If it is the problem it is a lot cheaper then replacing a master cylinder or calipers.
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The truck seems to be smoking a lot when I do start it then once I drive it for a second the smoke stops. The truck will not start after the engine gets hot..
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I have a 2006 F350 6.0 Diesel with 125,000 miles.
1st issue....When accelerating the fan comes on and it sounds like a jet engine taking off. Let off and it goes away! It acts like it does when you're towing something and put it under a load but you're not towing anything?
2nd issue...when towing a month ago hit a hill and totally lost power it was down to 25-30 miles an hour with it floored. Tranny gauge got up to about 3/4 but never any further. Let off pedal to try and get new gear and did not work, was like it was in a limp mode but never threw the wrench up. Finally got to top of hill and she cruised down other side just fine. No loss of power tranny back to normal. Then towed over weekend on flat land and tranny gauge went almost to overheat. Didn't seem to have power issue.
Since 1st tow issue it had 8 new injectors installed but hasn't seemed to change much. Fan issue was there before injectors and new injectors only, worked only with the cutting out it would do when cold and when driving in overdrive. Computer issue? Relays?
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2002 F350 7.3 PSD. 192k miles.
From my understanding, a CEL is supposed to illuminate each time you turn the ignition ON as part of normal startup procedure.
I figured the previous owner must have pulled out the bulb to hide the fact that the truck had a few "issues" before selling it, so today I pulled out the gauge cluster and it looked as if the CEL bulb was a tiny LED soldered directly into the gauge cluster itself. There were a few serviceable/removable bulbs for things like turn signal indicators, high-beam etc... but the CEL did not have a serviceable/removable bulb.
I've been driving this truck and working through it's "issues" and fixing things as I go, but it keeps throwing codes without the CEL illuminating. What's going on here?
I thought the check-engine-light was supposed to illuminate each time the ignition was turned on, and that it would come on each and every time the vehicle registered a fault code in the ECU/PCM.
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My low fuel light came on tonight. I drove about 2 miles, stopped and shut the truck off. When I restarted it and began to drive off to the fuel station a notice came on that isaid power reduced then a check engine light came on. I was about a mile or less from the fuel station so I filled up. I cycled the key but the engine light is still on. No low power message tho. The power is fine.
I came home and drained the water drain on the filter, didn't see any water but hoped it would solve the problem. I cycled the key a few times and started the truck but the light is still on. My truck is a 2013 f350 6.7 and has 211500 ish miles on it. I bought it a month ago with 18500 miles and haven't had any issue until tonight. My only thought is maybe the fuel filters need changed. I don't know if or when the previous owner changed them.
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I started my '16 6.7 this am and drove it about a mile.
The check engine light came on and at the same time the display said "Reduced Power". I decide to turn around and try to make it back to my shop but shortly after turning around the display said "Low Fuel Pressure" and within a couple of hundred yards it shut down leaving me stranded by the side of the road.....
I called my local dealer who gave me the Ford Cares 800 number. I got a flat bed in about 1.5 hours which I didn't think was too bad considering I live in the country and they brought it to the dealer. The SA said it might be a couple of days before they could look at it as they were pretty busy... What it could be? The engine is stock with 9100 miles on it...
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So last night my check engine light came on so I checked by by turbo and seen this hose not sure where it goes?
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Check engine light is on...not blinking. All fluid levels are good. Mileage is 10,700. No code displayed in engineering mode. Truck seems to be running fine..
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Another thread on here about Time for Batteries got me to thinking about mine and whether I should change them based upon time.
They have been in the truck 4 years and 6 months or so. I was reading some older threads recommending changing around the 3 year mark to prevent damage to the FICM.
I don't drive the truck everyday and sometimes it sits for 3 weeks or so. I noticed 2 days ago when I took it to work, I got one of the slowest cranks I've ever gotten. But after it's started and the glow plugs turn off, I get ~ 14.1 - 13.4 or so volts.
FICM voltage never drops below 47 and usually runs between 47.5 and 48.5 volts.
I'm not sure what size alternator is on there. Plus it's a single. I also have the upgraded cables that Mr. Jack recommended for extra battery life. I guess it's time for batteries though?
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I found out today that the 2012 6.7 that I have purchased used with 30, 500 Miles on it a month ago has been in previously for warranty work. It appears that the previous owner took it in with a check engine light and after diagnostics found that the EGR cooler had "no Flow". Ford replaced the EGR cooler core under warranty before I bought it. (It now has 31, 950 on it). Normally I would think, GREAT, something I don't have to worry about doing. But being new to the diesel world, I was just wondering if this is something I should be concerned with. Anything else I should be keeping an eye on etc.... Also is this abnormal to occur with such low mileage?
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I just replaced my batteries today on my 2011 F250 because of a no start situation. I guess it was about due since they were original and that gives me 5 + years of service and it happened in my driveway so I definitely am not complaining. However after I replaced them and started the truck the check eng lite came on....
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If doing a EGR delete on a early 2004 6.0 will turn on the check engine light? I was going to leave the valve in place and harness connected, I was just looking to add durability to the truck so don't want to use a tuner but also don't want the engine light on, I seen conflicting reports that it may or may not turn on the light!
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I had a bad Glow Plug on my 2004 F350 6.0L Diesel causing the check engine light to go on. I replaced the Glow Plug and cleared the OBD2 error. The check engine light is off now, but I can't pass the smog check because EGR Monitor "Not Ready"
I put 100+ miles city/freeway miles on the truck, but I still get EGR Monitor "Not Ready" Even tried "Drive Cycle" with no luck...
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My check engine light came on today and the code read P1335. What code is that?
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CEL came on.. hooked up my cheap OBD/CAN scanner.. getting code P21B0..googled it and this is what i find: P21B0 - Reductant Level Sensor C Circuit High. What is this for? I've about had it with this truck..this having to replace a sensor every time I take it on a long trip stuff is getting ridiculous..2 EGT's, air charge cooler sensor, blower motor, and now this...
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Check engine light is on says low turbo boost but gauge says it has a lot of boost. Only happened after I put catalytic back on for smog test. Before that no problem.
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