Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2006 F350 - Boost Gauge Not Working
Nov 27, 2009
I am working on my dads 06 F350. He had four dash lights go out, so we changed out the bulbs and put the dash back together. When we hooked the batteries back up all the gauges reset except the the boost gauge. The needle went way past 0 and bounced for about 2 seconds then it just stayed below 0. We have tried to reset it by unhooking the batteries and turning the ign. switch on and off several times. Always go back past 0 and stays there. It does work it just doesn't read correctly. I am pretty sure that the needle did not get turned on the shaft? Is there a way to reset it?
View 3 Replies
Advertisement
I have a 2011 F350 6.7 cclb 4wd dually. 212k ... I have the dtc p0284. The run good at idle and driving. I use it to pull a 40ft enclosed trailer. I have noticed that the boost gauge peaks at the half way mark and slowly drops half way down. I can feel my truck lose power when that happens. I also noticed that it runs alot better at night than the day. I have not modified anything except a s&b cold air intake. I have the #8injector replaced.
View 2 Replies
I have a 2006 f350 4x4 dually 6.0. The other morning when leaving for work I hard a loud air noise, like a jet. It only happens when the motor is trying to create boost. I have NO boost. No smoke. If I push the fuel pedal past 1/4, nothing. Its like its stuck and no more power at all. I have changed the boot from the turbo to the intercooler pipe. (looked like it had cracks in it). Checked the cold pipe, no cracks seen. Check the exhaust clamps, into the turbo, they are tight. The turbo is seeping oil around the seal. I took the inlet, fresh air, pipe off. Check the turbo spool for looseness, fins, spun the wheel, ran the engine and watch to wheel. Seen no issues. Where to go now?? No coolant leaks, no oil leaks.
View 7 Replies
Boost gauge is pegged and have no turbo don't know if the code has anything to do with the problem or not its a po6a7...
View 6 Replies
Noticed the other day when I went to leave a job site my Check Engine Light came on but the truck started fine and seemed to run normal. while cruising down the highway I noticed that my factory boost gauge was showing 35psi and fluctuating between that and around 10. looking at my H&S it was showing normal boost readings for the current driving condition, when I came to a stop the H&S would show 0psi but the factory one would fluctuate between 0 and 35-40psi..
I can tell the turbo is not spooling at all during this time. if I take off from a stop with the gauge showing 35 the engine sounds louder than normal at first take off compared to when the gauge is reading normal. I haven't gotten a change to get it in my shop yet to look it over but does the dash gauge read from a different sensor that what my H&S is reading? Truck is an '11 F250, deleted both EGR and DPF with H&S tuner. I checked codes and all I have is P06A7. Where to start?
View 4 Replies
Was driving back home from shopping tonight and my truck was making a lot of noise when I tried to accelerate. I noticed the boost gauge on the dash was stuck at 35psi but the MiniMaxx showed 0psi.
No engine light so I babied it home which was about 30mins driving and managed to accelerate slowly to avoid the engine rattling. I didn't want to shut it down and restart in case it wouldn't start again for some reason.
When I got home I idled until EGT was <300F like I normally do (it never went over 700F when I was driving home) and then restarted it. The gauges worked fine, MiniMax showed boost and the engine revved freely with no rattling noise. I haven't taken it out for a road test, I'll do that when it's daylight.
Bad sensor somewhere? I would think if the turbo had failed it wouldn't have been fine after a restart.
View 5 Replies
I have stock 02 F350 7.3 with 74,000 miles ... Today i looked down and noticed my RPM gauge sitting there at 0 ... It was working just fine yesterday. I figured before i go digging around looking for the issue id see what is causing it not to read ..
View 3 Replies
Do the gauge cluster out of one super Duty will work in another truck, just plug and play? I have a 2015 550 that the fuel gauge has quit, which is causing the truck to go into limp mode because it will not allow a regen on the DPF. This is a business truck and i need it to be rolling. There appears to be a national back order on gauge clusters from Ford. I have another truck in the fleet that I could do without so I was wondering if I could just swap the clusters would it work?
View 6 Replies
I currently own a 2006 F550 4x4 pick-up. I just finished changing the oil and my oil pressure gauge is not working....
View 11 Replies
The ford dealer in Las Vegas replaced my turbo with a remanufactured one. Coming off the line (like quickly pulling into traffic) it goes flat on power until I get a few RPM's. Even with the old turbo it never did that and I drove it for the last 30k miles with it throwing the low turbo boost code. They put a little over 100 miles on it for road testing (I did have other things that they worked on. {4x4 2006 F250, 6.0 engine, 110k miles and I bought it new}....
View 4 Replies
When I'm driving sometimes it will pour black smoke and make no boost, and then the next time I get on the throttle it goes make to making boost like normal. It has the following thing done in the last 50k. I have a 2006 f-250 lariat FX4 it has the following mods:
EGR delete,
Powermax Turbo,
Rudy's Diesel Up Pipe,
4" Turbo Back Muffler Delete,
New For Injectors,
Blue Spring mod,
Gear Head Tune,
S&B Elbow And S&B Cold air kit
View 2 Replies
Working on a 2015 f-550 with a 6.7 power stroke. Damaged the wiring harness and fuel gauge not working now. Where could I find a wiring diagram? The low fuel is now causing it to not regen. We have continuity through the wires and they have been repaired but gauge still does not work. Currently now power to fuel gauge sender?
View 1 Replies
I would like the hear what others have to say about the problems I'm having with my 2006 F-350 sd xlt 6.0 with 113,000 miles on it. It's being used as a tool truck mostly going from a shop on the property to close by buildings on the same property. In other words very short distances. Used occasionally to take a dump trailer to a close by dumping ground.
1. White smoke from exhaust. I've read this is most likely an ERG cooler that needs replacing. Any other possible causes? If I end up having to replace the cooler is there a stock cooler that is reliable or should I get the one by bullet proof?
2. Diesel is dripping from the muffler weep hole. Last full tank lasted only 60 miles. Could this be the oil cooler? Anything else? If so is the Ford replacement cooler OK or should I go with an upgraded cooler?
View 14 Replies
Have 2006 Ford Power stroke with 6.0 in it.. Just started doing this ... When Im driving the oil pressure gauge is fine and motor sound fine, but sometime when I come to a stop sign the oil gauge will drop all the way down to zero, the motor still runs fine and has plenty of oil in it. After I press on the fuel pedal to raise the RPMS just a couple the gauge goes back up. the odometer will all so blank out and it will flash "read gauges" when this occurs,, its driving me crazy and not sure where to start..
View 14 Replies
I have a 2005 6.0 f350 lariat... My climate control doesn't switch very well I can get it to go to floor sometimes after 15min of pressing the button. The vacuum pump is good the tank has no cracks. I feel that the system is either plugged up or has a leak. I cleaned the tank after my hub seals went and it sucked a ton of dust and dirt through my wheel bearings in to the tank. Is the vacuum switching part of the digital display? Or is there a separate part?
View 1 Replies
So this '06 F350 is blowing fluid from the steering pump fitting when you move steering wheel to either side all the way(lock). Is the internal o-ring blown in the fitting? Do these have the teflon seal at the pump? Pretty new to the 6.0 scene. Got a new line ordered.
View 6 Replies
I have a 06 f350 superduty with a 6.0 I have had injector problems before with the motor even hydro locking no start this is the problem my truck started blowing white smoke with a strong diesel smell everyone said it was oil cooler but I took it to a ford garage the guy said I had 2 injectors hung open and wasn't hydro locking and suggested to put all 8 in so I did 3400.00 not I went to pick it up had no power at all turbo was not kicking in so I took it right back to them they checked it out said turbo was sticking had to clean it it would take 6 hrs. said the fuel In the motor caused it it was working fine when I took it to them now they say maybe a new turbo are they giving me the run around or is this possible....
View 9 Replies
My dad recently bought 2006 6.0. He has had it about 2 and half months. Has the egr delete kit installed. The truck has ran great. Up until Wednesday the 3rd. My dad headed to Ut to pick up our new quads. While heading up a small grade with empty trailer in tow. Truck went to limp mode, fan kicked on, orange wrench came on on dash board. He pulled over let her cool down turned her off.
Checked fluids Then started her back up and she was fine. That has happened 3 times. Now he is on his way back (tow haul mode turned on) and it is doing it again. She hasn't went into limp mode yet. As soon as the fan kicks in my dad pulls over immediately and puts it in park. And lets her cool down checks fluids. This issue only happens mid way up a grade. So my question is...... What is causing this? How do we fix her and make her a happy truck again.
View 7 Replies
I drive an 06 f350 with a 6.0 diesel. My truck has quit on me twice in two months. It lost power then stalled and would not restart. I had just changed fuel filters but checked them anyway to see if they were plugged. They looked clean so i put them back in and the truck fired up. It ran good then two months later it did the same thing.
I noticed I could not hear the fuel pump so i pulled the cap off if the top fuel filter to see if there was fuel in it, and heard air being sucked in (or pushed out?) as i loosened the cap. I put the cap back on then turned the key and i could hear the fuel pump working. I waited for glow plugs and it fired up. Is my engine getting vapor locked, or sucking air? If so then why would it only happen every now and then instead of continuously?
View 14 Replies
Friday I pulled my steel gn 3 horse trailer about an hour each way. with the horses it weighs right at 7000 pounds. no issues. Saturday morning I drove to town, no issues. Saturday evening, I got in it to run down the road and about 2 miles from the house, the check engine light came on and the tow haul light started flashing and the temp gauge is dead. drives and shifts normal, tow haul button still functions. Truck is stock except for an EGR delete. No tuner, FICM was rebuilt. I had it on a battery minder before I left and was thinking about pulling the batteries and letting it sit for a while to see if it clears. Scan Gauge II shows no codes.
Sunday: So I let it sit all night, batteries connected and it was completely normal this morning. will see what happens when I drive it to work tomorrow
Later Sunday evening: So I just took it out for a test drive, went a couple miles down the road, shifting normal for a cold start. Temp gauge is working, just as I am almost back home. 5 miles at the most, temp is coming up to normal, gauge goes dead and check gauge light comes on and tow haul starts flashing. I think it might be the sensor.
This morning: I got about 6 or 7 miles from home, trans just got up to temp, pulling up a hill, it shifted out of overdrive, tft gauge went dead, check gauge light came on and the tow haul light started flashing. still shifts like it always has and the tow haul button still functions.
I am thinking it is just the temp sensor. Truck has 159k on it.
View 13 Replies
This truck is bone stock FYI. I get in it to crank it and I get nothing. Batteries are good, everything in the cluster lights up, and looks normal. No codes are thrown. I can hear the solenoids click under the dash and hood. I check the voltage of ignition cable at the starter and I get no reading.
There is a single thick yellow with light blue stripe coloured wire on the passenger side of the engine compartment, beside the vacuum pump with a "squeeze and pull" type disconnect. Disconnect it, and connect the male half of the connector to the passenger side battery positive terminal. Do this with the ignition key in the RUN position. Does the truck start?
This is where it gets weird. The truck does start and after i reconnect the wire it it starts normal. I started it several times throughout the day. The next morning I get in the truck. No start. I have to use the wire and manually connect it to the battery and it starts right up again. This time I get a "Tow/Haul" light blinking on the dash. It will go into gear but pressing the acceleration pedal does nothing. I turn it back off, attempt to start it normally and it starts right up. No it will go into gear and drive. Now I am thinking maybe the neutral safety switch?
Could it be a solenoid sticking or the neutral safety switch or something else entirely?
View 14 Replies
