Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2006 F250 Won't Start / No Cranking
Jan 10, 2017
I have a 2006 f250 superduty 6.0. The truck ran fine a week ago and than died as I was going to take it for a drive. I figured out that the fuel pump (air dog system) was not working. I fixed that and primed the pump. The truck still won't start. When it first happened the truck would crank but not start. Now all I hear is the starter but no cranking. Both filters could be replaced. The bowl to the upper is dry when I take the cap off. However fills up when you turn the key on. I'm not sure what else to try and I need to get this truck started.
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I have a 03 f250 6.0 . I rebuilt the whole top end. When i finished it 15 months later due to personal issues I started it. It ran for about 4 hours i turned it off the next day i went to start it again and didn't kick over so i figured it was batteries they might of died (it was about 3 degrees out) so i went to get new batteries put them in and it started using diesel 911 and starter fluided i let it run for awhile. I went back the next day to start it and it did t turn over it just kept cranking and started to die out so i stopped trying. Now a week later I am at it again. Could it be not starting because of bad fuel trying to get through the system or could it be something else?
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My 2006 F-250 6.0PSD has a new hitch. Tonight it would not start once hot. It cranked and cranked but no start. My scanner showed ICP readings of 366PSI during cranking. Far below the 500PSI needed before the computer will fire the injectors.
So is this the STC fitting at the HPOP that is failing? If so how long will she start cold and drive normal before she leaves me stranded? I have the fittings and new dummy plugs and stand pipes as well. I was waiting to to do this work until I had the money for an new EGR cooler and oil cooler.
I know my oil cooler is failing as my deltas are showing a 15-19 degree spread over my coolant temps.
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I have a 2006 Ford F-250 6.0 powerstroke with 100,000 miles and it puts out a puff of smoke at cold start up every time and also when I run it then park it for maybe 1 1 1/2 and it puts out a puff and also I noticed when I get to work with is about a 20 minute drive I get there around 8 then leave at 5 I noticed it puts out a puff then if I watch the exhaust I can see a slight haze but I figured it's just condensation.
Here's the list of stuff I have put on the truck... Oringed heads by librator performance, with oem gaskets every thing, arps head studs, egr delete, airdog 2 fuel system,mtw stage 2 turbo, bulletproof ficm,coolant filter, banks intake, fuel pressure set at 68 and fuel regulator return.
Here's a list off parts I put on trying to fix the smoke I put in 5 injectors because the ford ids had a slight change and after that it was straight line I put in hpop and turbo drain pipe and I tested the ficm and its 48 with the key on and cranking and running...
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I have a 2006 F250 6.0 with 218xxx on it. Have had a ton of issues since day one, but I finally thought I had gotten a handle on all of them until the other day. Truck started sounding a little rough, no noticeable effect on performance, no codes on my Edge CTS (except one random CKP sensor code that went away). Was leaving work later that day to go home and it started up fine.
Got about a 1/4 mile from the shop and went to turn onto a busier road so I put into the pedal a little bit. Truck immediately lost power. Sounded like a turbo boot blowing and I had very little throttle response. Immediately pulled over and checked codes with truck still on, nothing. Got out and popped the hood with the truck still idling to check for CAC tube/boot etc. As I was looking at it, the engine started screeching. I shut it off as quick as I could get back to the cab.
Looked over everything, nothing noticeably wrong. Went to crank it to see what it would do. All i got was a noise from the starter engaging. Belt not turning over. Tried unplugging the fan clutch (read a thread with similar symptoms and that was the issue for them), connected the starter solenoid directly to battery, same issue. Removed belt and attempted to crank. Same thing. Removed all glow plugs to check for hydrolock. Motor slowly would turn with belt still removed and no glowplugs. Removed starter and tested outside of vehicle, solenoid and motor both seem to be ok.
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I have a 06 6.0 f-250 it cranks but won't start untill I pull the secondary fuel filter cap off and seems to vent air in the system out then it starts right up. I can't figure out where it's sucking air. Here's my question I changed the fuel sending unit in the tank a few weeks ago and had a hard time seating the lid on top of fuel tank. If it is not completely seated will this cause air in the fuel system and give me the headache I've been dealing with?
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I have a 2006 Ford F-250 with the 6.0 with 99,000 that puts a puff of white with a tint of grey that smells like unburnt diesel smoke at start ups it will do it cold ever time and will do it when i let it sit for maybe a hour but not every time. I've noticed I had higher egts then before also not sure if it's related at all or not. I had on the ids the graph was a straight line for the injectors, pressure checked the coolant cold and hot doesn't loose pressure. No puking, New hpop. Here's what I have done to it, oringed heads,arp studs,remote oil cooler, factory injectors,egr delete,air dog 2 fuel system, coolant filtration, bulletproof ficm, regulated fuel return, stage 2 mtw turbo,CCV mod, banks air intake. I'm stumped!
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While driving uphill yesterday, my truck 6.0 f250 completely died. Added oil cause it's been a while and tried starter fluid. Cranks but won't start. Pulled OBD codes p0300, p0304, p0401, p0460, p0562, p0606, and p2290. Checked IPR, works fine. Checked fuses. Low voltage codes are most likely from battery dying during the test.
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I got a 2006 F250 6.0 that won't start. It turns over perfectly. What I've done so far was change oil and filter, along with fuel filters. All fuses and relays are fine. I payed for the scan gauge 2 and monitored FICM SYNC, FICM voltage, ICP, AND IPR. Every thing checks out besides ICP. The ICP is reading under 400. So I unplugged the ICP. Still no start.
I decided to spray some starter fluid in the intake and turn her over. Boom starts right up and runs fine. I even drove her around for about 20 min. I get home and shut off the truck. wait a few minutes and nothing dead again. So ICP is low but the truck runs fine after some initial support from starter fluid. What I need to do next? I don't want to have to take it into the shop for something stupid I could do myself.
Also the code its throwing at me is P0231 Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit
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Scangauge reads icp ok. Ipr ok. Fmp voltage is all over the place from 42 down to 2. Flp is also all over the place from 11 down to 2 volts. And no Sync. Load checked batteries well. Voltage is 11.5 down to 10.5 when cranking. Fuel good. No pre warning signs. Parked running good. I have read tones of forums but none with 3 issues. Could it be the relay?? Would a bad ficm show no sync on cranking?? Why is my flp voltage so up and down.
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Finally got everything buttoned up, and truck was going for it's first drive today. Started cranking, and it just barely tries to start, and then nothing until I cycle the key again. Doesn't even give me a full Vroom, Just like a Vro- and then back to cranking.
I've had it started and running a few times, so something has changed. And to add to the fun, something between my tablet, my torque pro app, and my dongle isn't playing nice. Tablet just won't see the dongle. So I get to figure that out too.
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I just picked up a 2006 F250 6.0. It was having hard starts. Anyways before I started using it I started tearing things apart cause I knew for sure the turbo was leaking so that had to be resealed. I just picked up a 2003 turbo today for it out of a used truck that had 144000 kms on it. (was in an accident). I am gonna post up a few pics here of the engine bay area, there is a huge amount of old oil I believe to be, I am wondering if it was a leak or spilled oil. I am going to be cleaning this up. Putting 03 turbo in here, doing a service and then plug my Tablet with torque pro and post up some numbers and see how healthy she is. Before I post any pics Is there a way to make these pictures clickable instead of them taking room up on the page?
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I have a 1999 f250 7.3 psd. it cranks and will not start, it use to crank for a bit of time and then start and now it refuses to start. If I leave the key in start position for like 30 seconds it use start and now it wont. I am thinking it is something with the glow plugs?
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Truck has been doing this and now getting worse. 06 f250 6.0 147,000 miles. Runs like crap when you first start and truck has trouble shifting when I first take off in the mornings until it warms up then it idles fine and runs like a champ no problem shifting. Not in a cold climate 40F at the least. Not trying to take it to the dealer and get raped. Been doing research some people say get the inductive heat flash, some say needs new injectors, some say could have a bad gasket on the injector idk. I'm trying trying to get it resolved....
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I need to start ford power stroke, 2005 with vt365 engine, is v8 cylinder, front timing cover was change and since then the truck only cranking and refuse to start, what have done so far, test icp power, ground and ecu 5 reverence voltage was ok,crank engine and monitor icp signal voltage was 1.2 and above at a crank,installed 1500psi gauge in icp hole and monitor oil pressure at engine crank reading 800psi and above, fuel pressure was 45 psi and above, check engine rpm was 175 and above, measure cam sensor ohms was 800 and crank sensor ohms was 400, check cam and crank supply power was 1.87v and ground was ok, replace ipr with brand new, no fuse that cut, scan for code i found(221 internal sensor supply voltage low or below normal range FIM4)FMI4,Engine crank but no smoke from silenser, using fluid and yet engine didn't make any attempt to start was only cranking, what could make the engine not to start and which component has failed that display above code.
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Had Just replaced glow plugs and batteries along with a new set of tires. Truck had been running fine for the three days that is was. Went out the next morning and went to start and "POP" a large noise came from under the hood. I have yet to discover where this noise particularly came from or what it may have been that caused it. But ever since the POP it will not turnover what so ever. Key on every thing is normal all power just when go to turn key over it makes a faint click. You can feel the click in the relays on your hand when you try to turnover. But nothing. I am absolutely clueless.
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This morning when attempting a cold start of my 05 6.0, it would not start was noticeably harder cranking. I had no CEL. I checked my scan Guage and the volts were 13.4 and fcm main power was 48.4. I checked and I had a p0405 code. What could be going on? I read that it can be a stuck or bad EGR valve? Could it be battery related?
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Dang, won't start again. My auction truck needed batteries, so I put mine in it and bought new ones for my work truck. Couple of days later, didn't start. Checked SG and I wasn't getting enough RPM. Jumped it and it fired right up. Replaced one of the new batteries and it's started fine the last few times, until just now, in the parking lot of the tire store.
The RPMs were weak - they'd go over 160 but then fall back to the 140s. I walked home and got my auction truck, jumped it, and it still doesn't start. Just spins. RPMs still fall back to the 140s after a few seconds of cranking, but they got as high as 220 so I don't think that is the problem. Fuel pump runs, the upper bowl is full, no bubbles. Oil pressure registers on the dash after a few seconds of cranking.
The last time, I wiggled some fuses and it started. Not this time. FICM at 48, ICP around 700 while cranking. Volts and IPV are good. FPW is 0, but I think that's right, until it cranks. Same with Sync - at 0 while cranking - does it ever go to 1 without starting?
It acts like it has in the past - cranking just fine but no start. And in the past, when it finally starts, it acts like nothing was ever wrong. I checked my IPR screen about a month ago after replacing it about 6 months ago when it didn't start. What am I missing? I'll go read some threads for clues.
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I just finished installing a new set of injectors, standpipes and the blue spring kit on our 2005 Excursion 6.0. The truck idles and runs much better but now it takes almost two seconds of cranking to start the engine. Cold and hot are the same and the length of time between shut down and start doesn't seem to matter either.
What to check? I am planning to check the ICP tonight when I get home. Could I have air trapped some where in the system? This is my first powerstroke so I don't know if this is a possibility.
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About 7 months ago my truck started cranking longer than normal to start after sitting for more than 2 hours. This went on for about 3 weeks, then it started normally again. (By longer crank time, i timed it between 5-7 seconds on average. Normal is about 2 seconds). Now it has started doing this again about 4 weeks ago. Now I'm thinking HPO slow leak. Yesterday all is good again. What should I be looking for as a starting point to fix this permanently? When it cranks longer, the icp stays at 0, the ipr goes to 77%. Then it just fires off. No slow build of pressure. You can see all my mods and updated parts in my sig. I wonder if one of the new dummy plug o-rings is starting to give up already after only 15k miles. (Batt voltage is at 13.9-14.2, ficm is at 49.5 steady).
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My 2006 F250 was towing my 5th wheel when it started to loose power and eventually died. Would not restart. Replaced all fuel filters to no avail. Towed to mechanic shop. Has a little over 100,000 miles on it. Waiting for mechanic to check it out.
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