Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2006 F250 - How Often To Change Air Filter
Aug 29, 2009
I have an 06 F-250 super duty with 26000 miles.. Was wondering if i need to change my air filter or wait awhile longer. It doesn't look bad but have never seen a filter quite like that one either..
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I have a 2004 F-250 changed out both fuel filters and now can't get it to run. It will start up and run for about a minute then stall out. I have cycled the key/pump numerous times with no luck. When I look into the fuel bowl when I engage the pump it looks like it's pushing more air rather than fuel. It seems to be burning the fuel in the bowl and then stalling out. When I take the bowl cap off after it stalls it's empty.
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Ok so the speakership wants 200 bucks to replace and the filter alone is 100 bucks. Found some at auto zone for 65 and 85 or so. How often do you change your filter and where do you buy them?
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How many miles typically getting out of air filters? I kept watching the air filter gauge and never saw it changing as the miles added up. I'm at 22k miles now and finally opened it up and looked at it and decided it was time for the first change even though the gauge was not indicating it needed to be.
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Did my oil change last night and filter swapped both fuel filters on my 04 f350 started it up last night drove it a little bit and she was fine. Went to start her up this morning and she was pissy so I drove her a bit once warm and she feels like there is a dead cylinder maybe??
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Replaced both fuel filters same as usual. Cranked right up and I let her run while I put up the tools and look for leaks. Notice it started running rough, so I jumped in and started to back out of carport and it went dead. Ran battery down and it won't hit a lick. Replacement (racor) filter same as last few changes. Running just fine before change so it has to be something simple, but what?
2006 6.0 powerstroke
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Went and changed my fuel filters today... Primed the truck 6 times. Started it. Ran great, then got a low fuel pressure and reduced power notification. Turned it off. tried priming it 10 more times, no start, tried 15 more times. No start. Took off the outlet on the secondary filter, solid flow. Took off the return on the L/H fuel rail, pinched the line and put a hose on the rail... Once again solid flow. I can hear air somewhere under the hood but I don't know where... Driving the 7.3 to work tomorrow but this is driving me up the wall.
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Having problems with motor craft oil filter leaks. Every time I change my oil the filter ends up leaking. This has happened three times.
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Which is, Injector Control Pressure Too Low. First filter change on this truck. Purged the truck six times. No start. Purged it six more times. The truck started momentary. I've been purging for the last two hours. Now I have the code. What next?
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New to Diesel trucks, have a 2012 F250 with 4000 miles on it. for the first 3000 miles I would see regular messages about "Cleaning Exhaust Filter" about every 100 miles or so, but this last 1000 miles I have not seen any?? I drive about 100 + miles a day, 55 to 65 mph so I'm sure I'm running it long enough.
The other thing I've noticed is that my MPG has gone from 17 down to 14 which is what I would normally see during a cleaning cycle. It almost seems like I'm in a constant state of cleaning as my MPG has taken a dive... Any things I should check?
Side note, I towed a 30ft RV around the 3000 mile mark, since the tow I haven't seen the message.
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Truck has just over 5000 miles on it. Had the tires road forced, no luck! Took it to the dealer ford said replace the tires 2 at a time (r then f), picked it up yesterday no better and said that ford wants to put a new driveshaft in it!
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I've got a leak that appears to be coming from the secondary fuel filter housing (the one in the engine compartment)... It's not coming from the filter, but from the side, where there are 4 allen bolts that attach a fitting to the side of the housing...Can I change out the gasket for that piece? I've already tightened the bolts, but the leak persists.
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I just bought this 2007 F250 a 126K miles on it. Drove it about 1500 miles with no problems. I changed the coolant to Rotella ELC, installed Sinister Diesel Coolant and Oil Filter Bypass, and changed oil to Rotella 15W-40. 3 days after I did this it was in the mid 30's in the morning when I headed to town. It was blowing white smoke, so I stopped and smelled it. It did not smell sweet. I saw what looked liked diluted oil dripping from the exhaust. As I turned around it stopped. I revved it up and no smoke. I headed back into town(around 10 miles) no smoke. Drove home and no smoke. I was at home for about an hour and when I started the truck it was blowing white smoke.
I revved it up a couple times and it went away. I drove about 125 miles and no smoke. I let the truck sit about an hour and when I started it was blowing white smoke and no matter how much I revved the truck it did not go away. I went to work and the truck sat for 3 weeks. I just installed the blue spring kit. Started the truck and no smoke at first. Then, when it went to fast idle a little wisp of white smoke. As soon as I revved the truck up it got worse. Then it blew out what once again looked like diluted oil about 5 feet out the exhaust( I have a huge tractor weight sprayed with this). My first thought was maybe with the thicker oil I am getting some stiction so I am planning to change the oil to 5W-40 and add Hot Shot Secret tomorrow. But blowing the oil like substance out the exhaust has me concerned.
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So, we have a 2005 ford F 250 6.0 diesel and we had the engine changed out from a 2006. Now the truck will not start on hot crank. It will start up normal when cold. So dummy plugs and stand pipes were changed out as well as the oil pump and turbo from the 2005 engine because they were still perfect. What else could be causing the truck not to start up after truck is hot. Does the engine number have anything to do with it? Or anything electrical
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My 2006 F250 was towing my 5th wheel when it started to loose power and eventually died. Would not restart. Replaced all fuel filters to no avail. Towed to mechanic shop. Has a little over 100,000 miles on it. Waiting for mechanic to check it out.
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I had my oil changed at 40,000. I am at 42,500 right now . My " change oil soon light " . Seem like a little soon ! Plus I am 5 hours from home on a ski trip. I have checked oil level it fine. Will I be fine to drive it home 5 hours back to my local dealership for oil change? Or should I find a place up here? What would cause the light to come on so soon ? I am new to this truck . My old 7.3 did not have all the BS that this truck has .
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I have an 06 F-250 with 122,000 miles. When driving empty at 70-75 mph the coolant temp runs 194-200 and the oil temp 5 to 10 degrees higher at the most. When I pull my travel trailer the coolant temperature will start to steadily climb then abruptly drop down under 200. I have seen the coolant temperature pass the oil temperature when this happens.
The last time I pulled the trailer I was driving at 60 mph and the coolant temperature climbed to 220 then dropped to 196. A few miles later it climbed to 230 then dropped to 200. While the temperature was climbing I slowed to about 45 mph. As it was dropping I accelerated and the temperature continued to drop.
I have flushed the cooling system, replaced the thermostat and cap with no improvement.
The pickup has an SCT tuner set to street 1 and I was told by the previous owner that the egr was deleted, but the stock egr cooler is in place. It is possible that a plug was put in. I pulled the egr valve and the carbon coating on it is gooey like it has been wet.
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My 2006 F-250 6.0PSD has a new hitch. Tonight it would not start once hot. It cranked and cranked but no start. My scanner showed ICP readings of 366PSI during cranking. Far below the 500PSI needed before the computer will fire the injectors.
So is this the STC fitting at the HPOP that is failing? If so how long will she start cold and drive normal before she leaves me stranded? I have the fittings and new dummy plugs and stand pipes as well. I was waiting to to do this work until I had the money for an new EGR cooler and oil cooler.
I know my oil cooler is failing as my deltas are showing a 15-19 degree spread over my coolant temps.
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I have a 2006 f250 6.0. the truck has 101k miles and to this point I have had zero issues. I am having trouble loosing power after running at highway speeds. Once I stop and begin to accelerate the truck looses power for a few seconds ,Belches smoke and begins to operate normally. I had an egr code, so I replaced egr and the problem persist. It is intermittent and does not happen if I stay under 50 mph.
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I am going to install a coolant filter on my 2004 6.0 E350 van. I have read threads about bypass filters and full flow filters and I started asking myself "Why use a bypass when I can filter all of the coolant?"
Is there any reason why someone should use a bypass filter? I bought the van used knowing I would eventually have to do most if not all of the 6.0 repairs. IPR sells a complete coolant filter.
I talked with the people at FICM repair and they suggested I do my research but leaned towards the IPR cooler. Ed spent a good 30 minutes on the phone answering all my questions and never asked if I wanted to buy anything. If anything, he was trying to stop me from throwing money at the van until I isolated what needs to be repaired.
I already bought the Sinister Kit and requested a return.
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So today on my way home from work. I got off at my exit and when I went to step on the gas I lost power and the truck wouldn't exceed 15 mph. It would just rev up and down. It was pouring white smoke from the tailpipe. At one point it went back to normal and started running fine for about 10 seconds. Then it went back to doing the same thing losing power and spitting smoke. I limped the truck into a parking lot and called a ride. I'm having a tow truck pick it up on Monday and take it to the dealership. Is this a head gasket issue? And I feel like it's going to be expensive. 2006 F250 6.0L .....
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