Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2006 F250 - Grinding When Ease Into Throttle?
Aug 23, 2016
My truck has been doing great lately after the major surgery she's been through. She is an '06 F-250, with about 238k miles. I've noticed a few days ago that there is a grinding noise and feeling in the gas pedal. (Or diesel pedal..? ) I can feel it right when I slightly ease into the throttle. It goes away once I'm up and going. But its the kind of grinding that sort of worries me. It is also apparent when in reverse, almost more noticeable.
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2003 f250 6.0.... recently did oil cooler,hpop,ipr,icp,fuel pump,egr valve, rebuilt the turbo.... when around 35mph truck seems sluggish and doesnt seem to pick up quick untill i floor it an then hauls butt.. vgt reading at idle is 62% and when floored around 30 to 35%.. fuel pressure is 63psi.. ipr is around 60 to 70% when floored and around 25% at idle. Hpop reading when floored is 3000 to 4000psi and idle is 624psi....
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I've been having rather slow throttle response with my 6.0 f250 diesel at lower RPMs. Obviously, this is to be expected to some point.. Whether I'm cruising on the highway or through the neighborhood, if the truck is at lower RPMs and I try to accelerate, it doesn't want to. In order to get it to accelerate, I have to press the gas down enough to downshift it then it'll take off.
The truck doesn't have a loss of power at higher RPMs, it takes off like a bat out of hell. I've put 175CC injectors in, tuned it, power max turbo, EGR deleted / studded, etc. It's almost go out with acceleration, or go turtle power with acceleration.
Oil pump was replaced a couple years ago. This problem existed through it all, and it's rather annoying. The truck doesn't want to produce any low end power. If I try to hit the gas enough to accelerate but not enough to force a downshift, I'll just blow smoke, spool the turbo, and barely accelerate until I down shift or push the truck through it. Turbo PSI is roughly ~15ish-20ish during the sluggish transition.
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Ok here goes. I recently replaced the front wheel hub and upper and lower ball joints on the the driver side of my 2004 f250 CC SB 6.0 fx4. Now when I put into 4 wheel drive I get a grinding noise that sounds like a worn out break pad from that side only. It didn't do it before and it only happens in 4x4. I have replaced the wheel hubs before and it was fine. Also The needle bearing race on the axle is good.
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2004 F250 Powerstroke Diesel 6.0L ... 90,xxx miles
Symptoms : Within the past 10,000 miles the truck has begun exhibiting the following problems, sometimes in conjunction with one another and sometimes just independently of one another:Stalling on the road at low speed / low engine RPM.
Throttle pedal becomes completely unresponsive. Stabbing the throttle pedal repeatedly sometimes causes it to return to operation. Sometimes the engine must be shut off and re-started to return throttle pedal to operation.
Rough, surging, stumbling idle at rest. Will crank but not fire occasionally. Problem has become worse as of late. Repeated attempts at starting the engine usually result in success after much, much retrying.
Work Done : Local Ford Diesel technician replaced the EBP sensor, replaced the EGR valve and re-flashed computer with latest software -- all under warranty. Problems still persist.
Peculiarities : We have tried driving the truck with the EGR valve disconnected and with it connected, both at the technician's request.
With the EGR valve disconnected the truck usually starts fine but still stalls out at low RPM / low speed. Fuel economy is also cut by nearly 50% with the EGR valve disconnected. Really couldn't afford to keep driving the truck like this.
Technician speculated that if the truck continued to die with the EGR valve unplugged, it meant that the computer or fuel pump might be bad. ????
It also seems that the stalling problem manifests after the truck has been driven at highway speeds (65-70mph) for at least a period of 20-30 minutes. Stalling usually happens as soon as we make an exit off of the highway and begin to slow down to make exit. As in foot off the throttle pedal. Engine RPM drops then stumbles then stalls.
I wonder if this is a problem with the HPOP or ICP system.
Specifically I wonder if this is a cracked quick release fitting that allows oil pressure to fall after the engine heats up and oil viscosity thins out with the heat. Once the engine cools down sufficiently to thicken the oil, the HPOP finally gets enough oil pressure to allow the engine to fire up again.
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This truck isn't mine but it's an 05 F250 automatic. We just did oil cooler, STC, standpipes, dummy plugs, EGR delete, and cleaned the turbo. Truck starts perfectly and runs great 99% of the time. But after a high load throttle situation right when you let off the throttle the engine sounds and feels like it cuts out for a split second, then it comes back and everything is fine. It does it with stock tunes but it is more noticeable with his SCT tunes loaded. There are no codes being set. The weird thing is if your drive it relatively easily it never does it, and it never does it while it is actually under high load, at WOT it pulls like crazy until you let off a bit and then it happens.. It also doesn't do it every time but it is fairly often. It has edge insight with fuel pressure monitoring added, ICP doesn't drop out and neither does fuel pressure. What could cause it to do that?
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I'm having an issue with the truck not staying idle after cold start up. The truck will turn over and start right away (not even 2 second crank) but immediately dies. The throttle will not work at low RPM. When I start the truck, it will instantly rev high, the revs will drop low, it will try to compensate and rev high again, then it will immediately die.
If the RPMs are under under 2.5k, the truck will immediately stall and die. When I attempt to use the throttle under that RPM, it will not work. No matter how much I depress it, the engine will instantly cut and stall out. It will not attempt to deliver fuel. The only way I can get the truck started is if I rev the engine high and hold it. I need to hold the truck at 2.5k+ RPM for atleast 30 seconds. It generally takes me about 5 tries to finally get it running (mainly due to the throttle immediately cutting out and I have to 'catch' and hold it.) After that, there is no sign or issue. The truck will start immediately back up after it's been running for a couple minutes.
CEL: MAP sensor (0069?) -- Sensor is spotless. Harness looks fine. I replaced the injectors, both batteries, and the alternator this summer. It doesn't sound to be any these either as the truck sounds extremely healthy and immediately turns over.
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My 2006 F250 was towing my 5th wheel when it started to loose power and eventually died. Would not restart. Replaced all fuel filters to no avail. Towed to mechanic shop. Has a little over 100,000 miles on it. Waiting for mechanic to check it out.
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I have an 06 F-250 with 122,000 miles. When driving empty at 70-75 mph the coolant temp runs 194-200 and the oil temp 5 to 10 degrees higher at the most. When I pull my travel trailer the coolant temperature will start to steadily climb then abruptly drop down under 200. I have seen the coolant temperature pass the oil temperature when this happens.
The last time I pulled the trailer I was driving at 60 mph and the coolant temperature climbed to 220 then dropped to 196. A few miles later it climbed to 230 then dropped to 200. While the temperature was climbing I slowed to about 45 mph. As it was dropping I accelerated and the temperature continued to drop.
I have flushed the cooling system, replaced the thermostat and cap with no improvement.
The pickup has an SCT tuner set to street 1 and I was told by the previous owner that the egr was deleted, but the stock egr cooler is in place. It is possible that a plug was put in. I pulled the egr valve and the carbon coating on it is gooey like it has been wet.
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My 2006 F-250 6.0PSD has a new hitch. Tonight it would not start once hot. It cranked and cranked but no start. My scanner showed ICP readings of 366PSI during cranking. Far below the 500PSI needed before the computer will fire the injectors.
So is this the STC fitting at the HPOP that is failing? If so how long will she start cold and drive normal before she leaves me stranded? I have the fittings and new dummy plugs and stand pipes as well. I was waiting to to do this work until I had the money for an new EGR cooler and oil cooler.
I know my oil cooler is failing as my deltas are showing a 15-19 degree spread over my coolant temps.
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I have a 2006 f250 6.0. the truck has 101k miles and to this point I have had zero issues. I am having trouble loosing power after running at highway speeds. Once I stop and begin to accelerate the truck looses power for a few seconds ,Belches smoke and begins to operate normally. I had an egr code, so I replaced egr and the problem persist. It is intermittent and does not happen if I stay under 50 mph.
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So today on my way home from work. I got off at my exit and when I went to step on the gas I lost power and the truck wouldn't exceed 15 mph. It would just rev up and down. It was pouring white smoke from the tailpipe. At one point it went back to normal and started running fine for about 10 seconds. Then it went back to doing the same thing losing power and spitting smoke. I limped the truck into a parking lot and called a ride. I'm having a tow truck pick it up on Monday and take it to the dealership. Is this a head gasket issue? And I feel like it's going to be expensive. 2006 F250 6.0L .....
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I have a 2006 f250 superduty 6.0. The truck ran fine a week ago and than died as I was going to take it for a drive. I figured out that the fuel pump (air dog system) was not working. I fixed that and primed the pump. The truck still won't start. When it first happened the truck would crank but not start. Now all I hear is the starter but no cranking. Both filters could be replaced. The bowl to the upper is dry when I take the cap off. However fills up when you turn the key on. I'm not sure what else to try and I need to get this truck started.
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I have a 2006 f250 bulletproofed for about 5 years now with no problems other than normal wear and tear. I had the factory water pump go out a couple months ago so I decided to go with the bulletproof diesel pump for piece of mind now I do tow anywhere from 8K-15K about once a week with custom Gearhead tunes using SCT.
While I was changing water pump, I ordered low temp thermostat figured it would work with towing temps even though they weren't that bad to begin with my deltas always around 10-128.. Now i am seeing signs of puking out degas bottle, I replaced cap seems to work a little the truck doesn't puke unloaded unless i really get down on it.
I noticed the other day while towing I was cruising with TC locked in at around 55 mph and i watched my EOT 210* and ECT 205*, the n ECT started climbing up followed by EOT then at ECT 222* fan came on ECT finally hit 234* and started dropping fast while EOT never got over 226*. ECT would level out at 188* go back up to 205* and stay there for awhile and do it all over again...
What is going on. I've talked to a could mechanics and they aren't confident its the HG..
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I have a 2006 Ford F-250 6.0 powerstroke with 100,000 miles and it puts out a puff of smoke at cold start up every time and also when I run it then park it for maybe 1 1 1/2 and it puts out a puff and also I noticed when I get to work with is about a 20 minute drive I get there around 8 then leave at 5 I noticed it puts out a puff then if I watch the exhaust I can see a slight haze but I figured it's just condensation.
Here's the list of stuff I have put on the truck... Oringed heads by librator performance, with oem gaskets every thing, arps head studs, egr delete, airdog 2 fuel system,mtw stage 2 turbo, bulletproof ficm,coolant filter, banks intake, fuel pressure set at 68 and fuel regulator return.
Here's a list off parts I put on trying to fix the smoke I put in 5 injectors because the ford ids had a slight change and after that it was straight line I put in hpop and turbo drain pipe and I tested the ficm and its 48 with the key on and cranking and running...
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I have a 2006 F250 6.0 with 218xxx on it. Have had a ton of issues since day one, but I finally thought I had gotten a handle on all of them until the other day. Truck started sounding a little rough, no noticeable effect on performance, no codes on my Edge CTS (except one random CKP sensor code that went away). Was leaving work later that day to go home and it started up fine.
Got about a 1/4 mile from the shop and went to turn onto a busier road so I put into the pedal a little bit. Truck immediately lost power. Sounded like a turbo boot blowing and I had very little throttle response. Immediately pulled over and checked codes with truck still on, nothing. Got out and popped the hood with the truck still idling to check for CAC tube/boot etc. As I was looking at it, the engine started screeching. I shut it off as quick as I could get back to the cab.
Looked over everything, nothing noticeably wrong. Went to crank it to see what it would do. All i got was a noise from the starter engaging. Belt not turning over. Tried unplugging the fan clutch (read a thread with similar symptoms and that was the issue for them), connected the starter solenoid directly to battery, same issue. Removed belt and attempted to crank. Same thing. Removed all glow plugs to check for hydrolock. Motor slowly would turn with belt still removed and no glowplugs. Removed starter and tested outside of vehicle, solenoid and motor both seem to be ok.
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I have an 06 F-250 super duty with 26000 miles.. Was wondering if i need to change my air filter or wait awhile longer. It doesn't look bad but have never seen a filter quite like that one either..
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I have been dealing with a oil leak for quite some time now, oil seeping from what appears to be around the cam sensor. About a year ago I pulled the cam sensor replaced the o rings that were cracked and split out figured that was my problem. drove it for another year continued to have same seeping oil leak. cleaned it up real good dyed the oil and checked again and seems to be same issue same spot around cam sensor. Pulled it again o rings are perfect but it seems as if that is where the leak is seeping from based off the uv dye I used. is there something else right around the cam sensor that I am missing that could be the cause? I have checked ipr, crank, dip stick, hpop cover, valve cover, glow plugs, a few other spots and have found no other leaks from any other than around that came sensor.
2006 F250 6.0 King Ranch
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I have a 06 6.0 f-250 it cranks but won't start untill I pull the secondary fuel filter cap off and seems to vent air in the system out then it starts right up. I can't figure out where it's sucking air. Here's my question I changed the fuel sending unit in the tank a few weeks ago and had a hard time seating the lid on top of fuel tank. If it is not completely seated will this cause air in the fuel system and give me the headache I've been dealing with?
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I have a 2006 Ford F-250 with the 6.0 with 99,000 that puts a puff of white with a tint of grey that smells like unburnt diesel smoke at start ups it will do it cold ever time and will do it when i let it sit for maybe a hour but not every time. I've noticed I had higher egts then before also not sure if it's related at all or not. I had on the ids the graph was a straight line for the injectors, pressure checked the coolant cold and hot doesn't loose pressure. No puking, New hpop. Here's what I have done to it, oringed heads,arp studs,remote oil cooler, factory injectors,egr delete,air dog 2 fuel system, coolant filtration, bulletproof ficm, regulated fuel return, stage 2 mtw turbo,CCV mod, banks air intake. I'm stumped!
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I have a 2006 F-250 Super Duty Diesel that I just purchased. Of course there is no warranty and of course I am not that familiar with trucks or cars for that matter. I bought this to tow our 29 ft trailer, which weighs roughly 7000 and should be no problem for the truck. The first 5 times we took it out everything was good and then we took it out and had a short but steep incline and the truck started over heating.
After unhitching the trailer, I drove the truck again and it runs great, no overheating. I even went to the same hill and everything was fine. So, I took the trailer out again and the same thing happened. What this could be? Since I am so unfamiliar with mechanics of things, I really don't want to get ripped off. I have read the troubles with the engine but don't want to spend the 6-8k to rebuild if not necessary.
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