Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2006 F250 - Driver Side Rear Window Goes Down But Not Up
Jan 9, 2016
I have a 2006 F250 with the rear driver side window that goes down but not up. I bought a new regulator and hooked it up to power before going through the trouble of removing the old one. It traveled down and wouldn't go up. The switch is working because I have power to it and thru it. What it might be?
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I would like to replace my drivers side window. It has some deep scratches and with the windows tinted it really shows. Been looking for place to buy from but can't seem to find one.
The only one I found was on Amazon but was trying to find one cheaper or with no shipping charge.
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On my way home today I heard wind coming in around my drivers side power window. Its not seating itself straight in the weather stripping. The window is tilted toward the front of the truck. Do I need a new regulator? Or maybe re- epoxy glass to bracket? The window still operates, its just crooked. Also I haven't had those door panels off before..
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Fixing issues with my truck. I just ordered some latex surgical tubing and am getting ready to fix the rattling noise in my rear door by using the Epic's Door Seal Mod. Hopefully this will take care of that issue.
One more annoying noise though. Has there been any fixes to the buzzing window noise that is coming from the front passenger side. If the wind is blowing right and I'm running over 50mph, at times get a loud buzzing noise and really bugs me. Something is vibrating and at first i thought i had a speaker going out but found out that wasn't it.
I've called my dealer and informed them of this and asked if they've heard of this but of course they haven't and this usually means the won't do anything besides look for recalls or something. I have the noise recorded and scheduled an appointment with my Ford Dealer but again, they won't do anything most likely.
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Any recommendations on brake calipers and hose?
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I have developed a leak coming from the top, driver side, rear of my engine and I could not figure out where it was coming from. I took it to a reputable shop for diagnosis and they tell me that the rear leak is coming from the transmission lines.
The weird thing is I never thought the leak looked like ATF. They also told me that it looks like the stock radiator/cooler has been bypassed so I have no cooler.
Should I assume that the stock internal cooler failed and that is why the PO bypassed it? Also is there a decent write up on deleting these lines and running soft transmission lines to a aftermarket cooler?
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Drivers side headlight is very dim or not even working with new bulbs. Occasionally it will come on. High beam light is always very dim until you click high beams then its bright blue
Short?
Bad switch??
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I dropped the F250 (30k miles) off at the dealer yesterday- in the last several days I've noticed a small leak puddle under the front drivers side frame member. I asked the service writer if they had had many trucks in for the radiator leak and he said "no". He has heard the waste gate solenoid buzzing the last two times I've stopped in for routine service and had said they would fix it when I left it with them.
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I have a 2011 f250 crew cab lariat that actually sits about 3" higher on the passenger side in the rear. I never noticed until I put some 4" pro comp blocks on the rear. I measured before and the rear left was 40" and right was 41-3/4". Now the drivers side rear is 42" and rear passenger side is 45"? I have looked at the blocks to make sure they are seated properly and everything is installed correct so what gives? What could be causing this. I bought the truck with 99k miles and now it's at 130k miles. I do tow a small cargo trailer sometimes but it is only about 3k lbs. Now I am thinking of buying some new leaf springs to see if that corrects the problem.
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I've got an 06 F-250 and out of nowhere the drivers side window does not operate. I don't hear the motor operating (or trying to operate.) So I opened the trim piece and removed and reinserted the plug for the two forward switches, no change.
Surprisingly we are expecting more rain in So Cal in the middle of April tonight and I'm wondering how to by pass the switch, to at least get the window in the up position to keep the weather and the natives out.
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Awhile back I did get my battery replaced and I did reset my windows so they could be used from the driver side panel. As of now, I can roll down all of them from the driver side except for the passenger side rear (window diagonal from driver). The window does roll down from the door itself so the window isn't broken. The light on the driver window switch is lit green, not blinking. However, the light on the window switch on the passenger door is NOT lit and not blinking either. And yes, I did make sure the window lock was not on.
Could the switch, either passenger or driver door, be bad? Should the battery be disconnected and reconnected??
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here's the problem. The driver side front power window will only go down and not up. I checked the motor and the master switch with a multimeter and both work just fine. the motor is receiving power and the master switch is sending power. However when i plug the motor back in and re-install it, the window will not go up. Is there some sort of relay that might have gone bad that is not letting the motor raise the window up???
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Rolled it down yesterday. Won't roll back up. Without hitting any buttons, I hear a click in the door every 15 seconds or so. During these 15-20 seconds, when I hit the power window button, the door makes a clicking noise like it is trying to activate the motor, but nothing happens. Then it clicks, and for the next 15-20 seconds, no click, no noise, no matter how many times I hit the window switch. Then after the next click, I will hear a click again whenever i hit the button, and so on and so on, on and off every 15 seconds. I tried taking apart the switch box and checking the contacts. They were fine.
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My car has many new dents and scratches (Got some scratches on my hood due to my awesome snow scrapper, and a mysterious new dent on my bumper that I saw after I washed some salt off). Anyway scratches I can deal with. It's just this bit of rust that's bothering me. It's on the rear driver side window pane.
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I have a 2012 Lariat fairly well loaded out. However, the so called "auto" window button on the drivers door works auto in down only. Just curious if something is wrong with mine because it is will not do auto for raising the window. One would think that on a truck the auto would work both ways. I know on my Expedition it works both ways. Just wondering if mine was faulty before I go to the dealer.
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2011 F350 with the rear window defroster not working on the slider window, just the glass that slides.
I had them look at when it was in for other warranty work and the dealership says it is not covered by the ESP. I looked up the ESP and it states that it covers heated back glass(electrical only). The dealership says it is considered glass and it isn't covered. If it was the outer sides of the back window it wouldn't bother me, but it is the center piece.
I had it looked at a while back when the truck was in for different warranty work and they supposedly fixed it, it was never fixed but I just thought I would get it fixed next time I was in there instead of just going in for that. Last time I was there I was under the 60K mile warranty and it is covered under that, but not the ESP supposedly. Bad dealership or just live with it?
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Truck is a 2011. What about fixing?
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I have a 2006 F250 Super, CrewCab 4 dr, 6.0 w/60K. Last month I tried the rear power window and .......nothing.
It tried to open 1/2 inch and then stopped, had to try to power it closed and it moved 1/4 inch and I pushed it the rest. Removed the rear cover behind the seats and I can see the motor and wires attempting to move but it does not move and I am afraid to burn the motor out or push too hard and break a cable or worse.
The track looks really dirty, I use that window maybe once every 2 months.
1. Can I replace the motor myself?
2. Can I put something in the track to clean/lubricate?
3. Should I try to open the window under power and some additional manual pushing?
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Is there a way to repair an individual switch on the drivers master window switches, or do I I have to replace entire 4 switch and window lock set?
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The driver's side power window is so slow to be put up. I think there is something wrong with the motor.
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2011 Santa Fe limited fwd
Bought as 6 month old demo in 2011 and from day one rear driver side power window has gone up and down slower than other three windows. Going up decidedly worse. My fault for not having it looked at while still under warranty.
Behavior the same using either driver's switch or the rear switch.
Well, now it occasionally gets stuck in down position. Neither switch works. But, if I press switch and pull up on window I can eventually get it to close.
I looked at other posts and saw no clear solution for this intermittent problem.
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