My 2006 f-250 just started blowing the #22 fuse when i go over a bump! Where the wire harness is for this. I've checked all the harnesses I could locate that looked like they could be rubbing on something.
View 14 RepliesI have an 03 6.0 F250. My truck started blowing fuse #45 and it would kill my gauges (fuel, oil, mph, rpm, temp, trans temp, and odometer) and I was just replacing the fuse and putting off the repair.
However, the most recent time my gauges blew, the fuse did not, and I put in a 20 amp fuse, in hopes that it would not blow so quickly, bad idea. So naturally, I ordered a new shift lever, in hopes that it would fix the gauges and I wouldn't have to deal with it anymore, but I think it was too late and something else needs to be replaced. What I could possibly have blown by having a larger fuse in there?
I have a 2006 f350 king ranch 4x4, I recently used 4 wheel drive and could not disengage it, it would go into 4 low but would not go back to 4 high or 2 wheel drive, I unplugged the actuator harness and applied 12 volts to the terminals and it disengaged, I reversed the power and it engages, the actuator seems to work properly, I then replaced the two relays located by themselves on the front fender driver side, when I try to install the 30 amp female fuse located in the outside fuse panel rear driver side, fuse #3 for 4x4 shift on the fly it blows immediately, it makes no difference if the harness is plugged into the actuator or not, if I remove the two relays then I can install the 30 amp fuse, but as soon as I try to install the relays it blows the fuse again..
View 6 RepliesI purchased 2011 F250 King Ranch Edition about 3 months ago. I'm loving the truck and not had any issues until 3 weeks ago. I locked the truck as usual using the key Fob, and upon returning to the truck, I noticed the doors weren't locked. After some brief trouble shooting, I discovered the the fuse was blown that according to the manual controls just the power door locks. I thought it was strange that a new truck would be popping a fuse so I replaced it...a couple of days later it blew again. This time I was locking the truck with the door key pad. I took it to the dealership and they checked it over and said they replaced the fuse and cycled it numerous times but could not reproduce the problem. The told me that they even put a call in to the Ford engineers and they said check the key pad for water intrusion. The dealership told me they disassembled the key pad and found nothing wrong....lock and unlocked the door some more and the fuse would not blow. I picked the truck up four days ago and the fuse blew again last night. Everything else works...alarm sets and goes off if any of the doors are opened. The only thing that I can find that doesn't work when the fuse is blown is the remote start.
View 14 RepliesI completed the high idle mod on my '05 Excursion 6.0 a few months ago. The 12V source is the blue/white wire that up/right of the ODBII connector outlined in the high-idle mod how-to.
For some reason, every couple of weeks, the 10-amp mini fuse at #29 will blow. It will work well for several weeks - then randomly pop the fuse about once a month.
Not sure if maybe I should swap out the switch I'm using to toggle the high idle, or maybe if an increase in the fuse amperage is required...or something else?
I have a fleet of F250s and 350s through my business. I have recently been having problems with a f250 2015 6.7. It has approximately 110k miles and a new transmission was put it about 12,000 miles ago. Since then we haven't had a problem until now. Recently (2 days ago) it started blowing a fuse, #46 (transmission control moduler) and lighting the entire dashboard up like a Xmas tree.
Check engine light, maintenance required, hill descent, etc. However it is completely random when it does this. It has happened a total of 11 times in 2 days. 6 times in a row yesterday then didn't do it until late this evening 5 times in a row. It will get parked, turn it off, try turning it back on and the fuse is blown, replace it same thing... then will eventually start.
I have a 95 f-250 psd with factory remote keyless entry. about 3 weeks ago i had a fuse blow that powers the keyless entry module, speed control, and a number of other systems.
If I replaced the fuse it blew right away so i got my wiring diagrams out and started unplugging parts of the circuit and my last attempt was to unplug the keyless entry module. presto no blown fuse so i got a module from a junk yard fixed the problem and now it has happened again. same exact thing. unhook the module and no blown fuse. i took the first module apart and saw no burned parts and no visible damage but here i am blowing fuses with no door locks, dome light and a few other things.
The fuse that blows is fuse 8. I am a mechanic and have full access to anything I need. I have another module under warantee but I want to be sure that its not something other than the module causing problems.
I just bought this 2007 F250 a 126K miles on it. Drove it about 1500 miles with no problems. I changed the coolant to Rotella ELC, installed Sinister Diesel Coolant and Oil Filter Bypass, and changed oil to Rotella 15W-40. 3 days after I did this it was in the mid 30's in the morning when I headed to town. It was blowing white smoke, so I stopped and smelled it. It did not smell sweet. I saw what looked liked diluted oil dripping from the exhaust. As I turned around it stopped. I revved it up and no smoke. I headed back into town(around 10 miles) no smoke. Drove home and no smoke. I was at home for about an hour and when I started the truck it was blowing white smoke.
I revved it up a couple times and it went away. I drove about 125 miles and no smoke. I let the truck sit about an hour and when I started it was blowing white smoke and no matter how much I revved the truck it did not go away. I went to work and the truck sat for 3 weeks. I just installed the blue spring kit. Started the truck and no smoke at first. Then, when it went to fast idle a little wisp of white smoke. As soon as I revved the truck up it got worse. Then it blew out what once again looked like diluted oil about 5 feet out the exhaust( I have a huge tractor weight sprayed with this). My first thought was maybe with the thicker oil I am getting some stiction so I am planning to change the oil to 5W-40 and add Hot Shot Secret tomorrow. But blowing the oil like substance out the exhaust has me concerned.
Have 06 super duty . Heater air blowing only on defrost. 4wheel drive. Is this a vacuum problem or some type of sensor or control problem?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2006 6.0l f350 crew cab that blows air hard every time I accelerate. Sounds like you're going 100mph with the hood unlatched. It blows real hard for a minute and goes away if I accelerate through it or let off.
View 7 RepliesDriving home 2003 6.0 started blowing a ton of black smoke, cars wouldn't get behind me. Found an exhaust leak on the driver side up y pipe. Would that cause this much smoke? 2 codes were 0284 and 0281, I replaced those injectors about 10k ago, at the same time replaced turbo, hpop, egr valve and cooler delete, and new oil cooler.
View 9 RepliesThe fuel pump fuse keeps blowing intermittently. I would assume it's a wire grounding out somewhere but I can't seem to find one yet. I do have a faulty purge solenoid on the canister but I don't think that would cause this. The reset switch doesn't seem to be tripped either.
View 3 Replies2006 blowing white smoke and sluggish until its driven for a few miles ..smells like fuel .. New head gaskets and the works started after 20 days over below freezing temps nights at 5 to -5 ....
View 14 RepliesI have a 2001 F-450 SD with 7.3. What the problems would for the blowing of fuse #3. The DLC fuse. I mean I know it goes to the cigarette lighter as well. but when not in use it still blows.
View 1 RepliesMy 2006 F250 was towing my 5th wheel when it started to loose power and eventually died. Would not restart. Replaced all fuel filters to no avail. Towed to mechanic shop. Has a little over 100,000 miles on it. Waiting for mechanic to check it out.
View 3 RepliesI have an 06 F-250 with 122,000 miles. When driving empty at 70-75 mph the coolant temp runs 194-200 and the oil temp 5 to 10 degrees higher at the most. When I pull my travel trailer the coolant temperature will start to steadily climb then abruptly drop down under 200. I have seen the coolant temperature pass the oil temperature when this happens.
The last time I pulled the trailer I was driving at 60 mph and the coolant temperature climbed to 220 then dropped to 196. A few miles later it climbed to 230 then dropped to 200. While the temperature was climbing I slowed to about 45 mph. As it was dropping I accelerated and the temperature continued to drop.
I have flushed the cooling system, replaced the thermostat and cap with no improvement.
The pickup has an SCT tuner set to street 1 and I was told by the previous owner that the egr was deleted, but the stock egr cooler is in place. It is possible that a plug was put in. I pulled the egr valve and the carbon coating on it is gooey like it has been wet.
My 2006 F-250 6.0PSD has a new hitch. Tonight it would not start once hot. It cranked and cranked but no start. My scanner showed ICP readings of 366PSI during cranking. Far below the 500PSI needed before the computer will fire the injectors.
So is this the STC fitting at the HPOP that is failing? If so how long will she start cold and drive normal before she leaves me stranded? I have the fittings and new dummy plugs and stand pipes as well. I was waiting to to do this work until I had the money for an new EGR cooler and oil cooler.
I know my oil cooler is failing as my deltas are showing a 15-19 degree spread over my coolant temps.
I have a 2006 f250 6.0. the truck has 101k miles and to this point I have had zero issues. I am having trouble loosing power after running at highway speeds. Once I stop and begin to accelerate the truck looses power for a few seconds ,Belches smoke and begins to operate normally. I had an egr code, so I replaced egr and the problem persist. It is intermittent and does not happen if I stay under 50 mph.
View 12 RepliesI had a problem with this issue a few months ago, was 45 minutes away from home, blew the fuse to the starter. Switched another one in, blew it too. Had it towed to a shop, they did some diagnostics, felt like it was a short in the starter, replaced it and all has been well (as far as that particular issue) until this morning. Got in it, turned the key it cranked for less than a second and stopped. I pull the fuse, sure enough, blown. Swap it with another, it blows.
I know I have a bare wire in the column, the OD light wire is chaffed, I fixed it before but it must be worn again because I can get it to light up depending on positioning of the shifter lever and as I recall, every time the fuse blows the steering wheel is cranked to the left.
So today on my way home from work. I got off at my exit and when I went to step on the gas I lost power and the truck wouldn't exceed 15 mph. It would just rev up and down. It was pouring white smoke from the tailpipe. At one point it went back to normal and started running fine for about 10 seconds. Then it went back to doing the same thing losing power and spitting smoke. I limped the truck into a parking lot and called a ride. I'm having a tow truck pick it up on Monday and take it to the dealership. Is this a head gasket issue? And I feel like it's going to be expensive. 2006 F250 6.0L .....
View 11 RepliesI have a 2006 f250 superduty 6.0. The truck ran fine a week ago and than died as I was going to take it for a drive. I figured out that the fuel pump (air dog system) was not working. I fixed that and primed the pump. The truck still won't start. When it first happened the truck would crank but not start. Now all I hear is the starter but no cranking. Both filters could be replaced. The bowl to the upper is dry when I take the cap off. However fills up when you turn the key on. I'm not sure what else to try and I need to get this truck started.
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