From what I understand it should be dry where the valve goes. I would call it moist not wet but fairly moist. The top groove had the most wetness, the middle groove was dry and the bottom was nearly dry. Where do I go from here - the video I watched said to scrape out and vacuum - not dry enough.
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I have this problem code P0405. At fist it come up with a turbo under boost. I have replaced the Turbo and egr valve and I still have the P0405. I did notice a oily residual in the port for the egr valve I see no deference in coolant. She idles good I just have no power when I put it in gear to move.
View 3 RepliesWhen replacing the power steering pump on my 2006 should I go OEM on the pump or save some money and get a Napa or aftermarket remaned unit with the pulley installed? Also, whar is the fluid capacity of the power steering system?
View 14 RepliesI am looking for the known good replacements. Almost made the 200,000 mile mark before getting a groul out of the driver side. Ball joints seem good with very little movement.
View 7 RepliesI'm going to be doing head gaskets on my 2006 F350 6.0. I know I need the head bolt tool and head lifting fixture. I have the tool to release the injector wiring plug from the head. Are there any other specialty tools I need? I saw in Hot Rod magazine a few months ago there was a new head gasket for the 6.0. Unfortunately I don't have the magazine anymore. I can't remember the brand of gasket. I know everyone in the past has said use OEM Ford head gaskets. Lastly, can I do the head gasket job and put studs in without pulling the cab or HVAC box?
View 7 RepliesIs the A/C condenser pretty simple to replace on the 2006 F350? Replaced the compressor but then noticed the condenser was leaking. Looks simple just wondering if there are any quirks to it.
View 14 RepliesLooking for a video or directions as to how I replace a windshield wiper motor on a 2006 SD?
View 2 RepliesSo I've been chasing a problem in my 07 6.0 for about 6 months now I had just changed the oil cooler and a week later was driving home and she quit a mile from my house I have since then changed the cmp sensor the alternator 3 injectors all the o-rings in the nipples of my oil rail both down tubes in the oil rail and the IPR valve most resently and last night I hooked it up to me auto engenuity scanner and the IPR valve is still not closing it stay at 14.84% the whole time I'm cranking. The only code I'm running is cmp sensor low a cuircut or something like that I can't remember the number.
View 14 RepliesMy friend attended a powerstroke diesel class last week. During the class the person doing it mentioned that if you are going to do a EGR delete on a 6.0 you need to install a blow off valve. He said that the 6.0 will open the EGR valve if you over boost and since you deleted the EGR it will lift the heads. He said that the unision ring wears out which will cause the truck to over boost causing the over boost situation.
EGR deleted but possible problems later? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
What this part it is? It sits over the alternator on the driver side and looks like a couple vacuum hoses plug into it. Mine is making a very loud buzzing noise.
View 8 RepliesMy son is joining the site as we try to diagnose his first diesel. We checked fuel flow, and the bubble test. We held the valve down in the oil filter and watched it fill up in about 10 seconds and see it register on the dash gauge.
My Scan Gauge say it pushes 180 RPM while cranking, but it only gets about 225 on the ICP sensor and the IPR instantly maxes out at 84. It has thrown a code P2623 for a stuck IPR valve.
I hear a hiccup in the crank, but I'll let y'all listen and tell me. Will post YouTube link of it.
What are the chances of it being just a hole in the IPR screen or bad valve? I'm afraid we have a HP leak and need to do the air test to find it. I've never done that test and barely hear (rock concerts), my son hears but doesn't know what to listen for.
I have had my truck for 13k miles and have been working through all the to-do items. Monday my FICM went dead, I got a replacement with 2 new batteries (ALT was ok 140 amp). Today I pulled the EGR valve for cleaning and noticed it was very moist but pretty clean. I looked down inside the intake and notice it was oily/wet. Is this a leaking EGR cooler issue or could the FICM going bad have something to do with it as well?
View 5 RepliesAs far as I can tell, the rectangular breather is full of some type of stainless mesh. I cannot separate the halves. I may have pulled a bonehead move and left it tin the solvent tank and didn't realize it was still on....ofcourse it was full of solvent. Just cleaned it real well. I drained it and am going to let it dry out before install next week.
View 4 RepliesI understand that exhaust runs through the EGR. what I don't know is:
Does the EGR valve control the amount of exhaust into the air intake?
If so, does only the amount of exhaust let through the valve go through the EGR?
if so, if the EGR valve is closed then no exhaust will go through the EGR?
My '04 F250 6.0L has 220k on it. I've had the EGR serviced several times and, unfortunately, the intake manifold boiled out in one of those services.
The engine light is on now and I've got "EGR Performance Problems" just below 2000RPM most of the time but not all of the time (runs better when warmed up)
I've been unemployed for quite sometime so I'm going to have to make this fix myself.
First question, of course, is should I plan to clean or replace the valve?
The second is how to clean the manifold chambers (? right word? The carbon accessible when the EGR is removed. I've seen people on YouTube scraping them with what looks like brake tools. Is there an appropriate tool or chemical?
The third question is is it going to be very difficult removing an EGR valve that may have carbon buildup on it? Too difficult for an aging seldom mechanic to think about tackling?
I guess those are good starter questions. I didn't know until today that EGR cooler may also be part of the problem. Unlike many of the people who post here, I have not kept good repair records. I don't know when I last had my EGR valve replaced at the Ford dealership but it was probably 50,000 miles ago.
Just wondering if your fuel drain valve leaks at the knob when you are draining for water? I opened mine yesterday to drain it for the first time and fuel went EVERYWHERE!! Unlike the 6.4 that I was able to use a bottle to capture the fuel in, my 6.7 leaks around the knob and comes out the drain port. After some very colorful words, I got it drained and then closed. I mean, why put a drain port on it if it is going to come out around the know and soak you.
View 14 RepliesThe truck was running great besides a little black smoke on WOT and a little jerk while towing. No codes at all. I pulled the EGR valve and got it all cleaned up and reinstalled. I also had time to pull the MAP hose and clean it. I pulled the nipple out of the intake and cleaned it also. I didn't unplug the sensor, just cleaned the hose. Now I am getting an engine light, the MAP gauge reads 2.9, and my turbo gauge is at 22.4 at idle. The truck isn't running right. What should I try first? I don't see what I could have done wrong but this is a pain.
View 11 RepliesA little over a year I had my rear outer wheels replaced due to corrosion under the clear coat around the valve stems, 15K miles
Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - View Single Post - Service experience with a new to me dealer
Next week another pair are being installed for the same issue, 31K miles.
I have late 2004 with 130k with a bpd egr cooler and new oil cooler and new ficm from Ed. Cat delete with no muffler. Everything else is stock I have a dash boss and was noticing some weird numbers. My check engine light came on but I couldn't get any codes with the dashboss. I started monitoring the egr error and saw some erratic readings really high negative numbers after I let the throttle off. The truck runs okay but was kinda starting slow. Could my egr valve be stuck? Could my short modified exhaust be messing things up?
View 7 Replies,the symptom that I'm wondering about is that when the truck is cruising at different high speeds like 65 or 75 it starts to jerk/jolt, if I accelerate it goes away, or if I let off the accelerator.
Once I settle on a different cruising speed it does it again. There is no smoke out the exhaust pipe, it does not loses any power, I look at the RPM's and they don't move when the jerking/jolting starts. Truck runs fine except for this issue.
I do get the P0404 and P0405 codes which are for the EGR valve and the sensor. By the way **is there an EGR SENSOR** anywhere on this engine, I seen some posts where people refer to it as the EBP Sensor, is this correct? I cleaned the EGR valve, but it did not do anything to fix the issue. I'm thinking I damaged the valve when I cleaned it, but I would like to verify that this symptom could be the EGR valve before I buy a new one.
Just got off the boat (offshore boat captain) and my wife has been using my truck while I was gone so it doesn't sit for forever. I made a quick trip to the hardware store for some materials and back to the house. Total drive time was about 20min. Noticed that I had a terrible shake like a weight got thrown off a wheel. When I got home and started looking at my tires I was on the passenger side front tire and noticed oil on the driveway. That's when I saw the drop.
Now I climbed under the truck and looked around and found oil all over the passenger header and starter and basically all down the passenger side of the motor. I popped the hood and and the valley was clean. Then I felt around the passenger valve cover and found a lower valve cover bolt missing. Second from rear on the bottom. My question after that long description is, can one missing bolt cause a leak bad enough to completely clean the oiled areas and start the truck and in about 1 min have clean oil dripping down? If so, when I get a bolt should I go ahead and replace the gasket?