Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2006 E450 Super Duty Keeps Dying
Jun 12, 2015
So recently my bus has been having issues shutting down on us. It started about 6 weeks ago. My band was on our way to a gig about 5 hours away from home. We got about 30 minutes outside of our destination and the bus just quit on us. After sitting for about 30 minutes, and switching some relays around, its fired back up and we made it to our destination. The ride back home the next day was pretty rough; it happened 3 more times...
We took it out again about 3 weeks ago for a trip about half the distance and the bus quit on us about 20 minutes into the journey. It took about an hour or so of sitting on the side of the highway before it started back up. Rather than try to risk making the trip, we turned around, dropped the bus off, and found alternative transportation...
I should probably add that the bus sat for about 3 or 4 months during the ridiculously harsh winter we had here this year, as we took the winter off from gigging. It was unplugged the entire time as it was stored in a parking lot across the street from my shop where I couldn't plug it in anywhere...
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OK, until I figure out what to do with the other truck I overheated, I've got another ambulance that needs some work, and I got to have a truck running.
This is the same config - 2006 E450 6.0 dually ambulance with 122K. Starts and runs; I drove it all the way to Houston from Minnesota when I bought it and made several shorter trips since with no problems except the AC compressor leaks freon. Then, I found oil in the degas bottle. A tech said it needs an oil cooler and he says there's some leakage at the rear main seal that's "common with this engine."
Can't recall reading a lot of rear main seal issues here. Is that right? Is oil cooler the obvious diagnosis for oil in the coolant?
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I have a 6.0 in a 2004 E-450 that starts and runs like a top except that it will not idle below 750rpm. If I give it just a tad of throttle it runs well. You can slowly let off the throttle and when it gets below the 700 it just dies like you turn the key off. Ford dealer spent piles of money on it and couldn't figure it out.
Got it in my Powerstroke shop and replaced CMP & CKP & tried another FICM. Is it possible that it would be the accelerator pedal assembly? The volts are what they should be but it dies so fast that the scanner can't see what's happening till it's too late.
It comes up with P2132, P2122, P2127, P2138, P2139 which are throttle related but am wondering if anything else could cause this before I start throwing more stuff on it.
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I have an option to buy a e450 with a 6.0, 100k mi, with a utility body. I have the same thing but an 03 with a 7.3. this van has some known issues, biggest being it sat for a year and a half. it was parked due to excessive smoke out the exhaust. Ford shop diagnosed it as bad head gaskets, personally I am not believing it. There is no evidence of puking on the degas cap, and someone removed the band clamp from the down pipe and there is nothing but a little soot, so I don't really think a turbo seal either. The batteries were dead tonight so I am going to take a set of batteries down and see what happens. he is only asking 6000 as is. I am thinking probably egr cooler, egr valve or injector problem. If I buy it I am going to install a new oil cooler, blue spring, clean the turbo and delete the egr. Late 2004 engine btw.
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I have a 2008 E450 with a 6.0 and 5w110 trans. It started to leak at the bell housing. I figured it might be the front tc seal so I dropped the trans and replaced the seal. Reinstalled trans but its still leaking from the junction of engine and trans and from where the starter goes into the trans.
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Having some problems with an e-350 dying when in gear and rough idle. Truck starts up after it dies. Vehicle acts like it is starving for fuel. I have check fuel pressure after fuel pump and getting 55psi. High oil pressure pump with in normal ranges. Cleaned and checked egr and it was in the closed position. Fuel filters have been changed. Injector buzz test ok.
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I have a 2004 6.0 that has been pissing me off to no end lately. I has a random dying/no start problem. If it idles for ten minutes, it'll die sometimes. And if I drive it and shut it off, it won't restart sometimes. I just drove it three hours on Friday, shut it off and it restarted immediately. Drove it around town all weekend and it started fine every time.
Now driving it home and stopped for fuel 45 minutes in, and it won't start. I have all sensor readings in spec except for I have no ficm sync while cranking. I have about 5k miles on new hpop, injectors, ipr valve, icp sensor, oil rail rebuilds, stand pipes, ficm and engine harness and injector harness. No codes either. If it sits for a couple hours it'll start fine. I've wiggled as many wires as I can and it still won't start. I have rpm while cranking on my edge too. Don't know if that would rule out crank sensor or cam sensor.
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Recently I have encountered another issue. Truck started up fine, at first stop light and truck was bogging down, RPMs jumping up and down slightly and sounded like it was going to die. Light turned green, gave it gas, no response. Gas pedal was dead. After restarting the truck I was able to give it some gas until I came to the next stop light and this repeated. Eventually a few moments later I got a check engine light. Drove home this way, seemed to be working fine as long as I was actually driving and not stopped.
All the parameters looked ok except for the battery, that jumped up and down in volts as the engine sounded like it was bogging down then eventually died. New batteries put in approx 2 months ago. The check engine light is showing "P0299 turbo/supercharger underboost". I have attached an image of this check engine light according to my monitor.
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I have a 2007 Ford E450 Superduty Box truck with a V10 and 70,000 miles. For the 6 years I have owned it, the AC has always been ice cold. This summer it will not blow cold under any driving situation.
When the AC is on AC, AC max, or defrost, the compressor clutch constantly engages for 1.5 seconds then disengages for 5 seconds. I bought a can of refrigerant and added only about 1/4 of it to reach proper psi for the current temperature.
If I remove either the high or low pressure switch clips, the compressor stops engaging. Is it possible that one of the switches has failed in that it is activating at an incorrect pressure? Unfortunately our local Ford dealer here is notoriously devious and while they may fix the problem, I will probably have an entirely new system by the time they are done.
I've ruled out coolant, air gap does not seem to apply and both hi and low pressure switches are active. What am I missing?
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I bought this 16' box truck today. 7.3L, 213k, 2003. It doesn't start and the owner gave a really good bottom dollar deal for all these reasons. Showing up armed with Torque Pro and my bluetooth adapter, I proceeded to plug it in and check for rpms, HPOP, Battery voltage, etc. No power to port
Find fuse diagram the owner located and fuse 23 is the OBD port. No fuse in place. He found us a fuse, I plugged it in, viola! Power to the port, TP is in action, ready to troubleshoot.
"Charged" battery, start cranking...no start. No Torque Pro (!) Apparently, the OBD port is cut-off while cranking .... Is there some other fuse or connection that will keep it connected during cranking so I can check for RPMs (no dash gauge for it)?
As soon as I left off the starter, the HPOP on TP showed 1212 then 850, then continued to drop with in about 2 secs. I figure it is getting good HPOP and this is the momentary bleed off.
PO replaced some time ago CPS with Autozone or something in an attempt to start it. No go. I am going to take my "emergency" CPS next time to see if that does it.
Because of the cranking-cutout, I cannot see FIPW. No way to know if the injectors are firing. It had reportedly been running a short time ago (weeks maybe?) and shut off while parked in the parking lot and never started again.
Batteries are low, but new-ish starter and cranks well. With jumpers, able to maintain 10.8v or so while cranking, though it was a bit up and down. I'll take a strong charger with 200amp boost mode next time.
Fuel pump runs. I can feel/hear it when the key is cycled. It has standard Rotella 15w-40w on this 50F day. Reportedly *wants* to be plugged in to start. I plan to switch to 5w-40w synthetic as soon as I can get it home.
It's automatic, pretty sure all van/stock. Here's a pic. Dog box gives good access to turbo and such, but everything else...
One battery under hood, other under cab/body. Has green antifreeze and leak at thermostat.
My goal is to get it running to get it home, about 30 miles, then replace ICP, CPS, IPR, Glowplugs (relay already done), thermostat and top housing and hose, convert to lifetime antifreeze, oil change to 5w-40w synthetic, 2 batteries (test alternator), uppipes or gaskets, Air filter (what upgrades available for this?), UVCH, idler pulleys and belt, replace trans fluid and filter, couple tires, paint inside box, weld and reinforce rear bumper, add radio, check cigarette plugs (think cell phones and gps), general cleanup.
I will have it and run it around 30 days. If it is solid and reliable, off to West Virginia it goes. If not, I'll part it out to get back what I can from it. I am paying for it up front, they are raising donations. But I won't let them pay anything (costs only) for it until I'm satisfied.
They need to run it about 5hrs round trip once a month immediately. That's about 3k miles per year. But I'm sure they will find lots of other uses, such as building supplies, etc. I'm hoping the injectors hold up for a while.
Right now they have multiple vehicles, trailers, drivers donating their time and vehicles (reimbursed for fuel only). It would be much better to take one hauling truck and one or two passenger vehicles... hence the box truck idea.
They distributed approximately 100k lbs of food last year. Not refrigerated, not needed. No CDL needed, about 14k GAVW. The PO has offered his carport where it is parked now, or even to push it into his garage with limited tools (I can bring some) to get it to run. Otherwise...
How to get this home?? Too heavy for my buddy's tow truck from the front. Wheels too far from back of box to reach them from the rear. No tow loops in front for tow bar, UHaul dolly rated at 4k (maybe?)
Dual rear wheels. Anything else I'm missing?
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2003 Ford 7.3 E450 ... Just recently got Auto Enginuity Ford enhanced
The problem....The van will run when plugged in for 2 hours or on either. Once started the van runs good. It will not start on its own even at 60 degrees
I got the following codes
KOER (Key On Engine Running)
P0476 Exhaust pressure control valve range/performance
P0673 Cylinder 3 glow plug circuit
KOER (Key On Engine Running) Cylinder Contribution
P0278 Cylinder 6 injector circuit contribution / balance fault
KOEO (Key On Engine Off)
P0113 Intake Air Temp Circuit High Input
KOEO Buzz Test (Key on Engine Off Buzz test)
successful
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I have a 2011 F 350 super duty 6.7 diesel. Occasionally while driving I am getting a cackle from the engine and it sputters and sounds like and feels like it's going to stall out. There is no power. It only happens occasionally. It happens mostly when Im driving, not accelerating from a stop. Example would be driving along for a while then try to accelerate off a ramp on to interstate. I brought it in and of course the excuse is we can't get it to replicate what I discribed. They did adjust something in the transmission shifting pattern. I get irritated when I paid for a loaded f350 diesel lariat and it has issues like this.
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I am a new diesel owner. So I'm not too familiar, how to trouble shoot. I am however, pretty familiar with working on gasoline vehicles. I have a 1999 E-450 Shuttle Bus that will not start after parking it for just 3 days. I live in the area where weather has been above 90 degrees each day. I've charged the batteries, replaced them, and boosted, still no start. I have fuel coming in the bowl. And the battery meter on dash is showing that I'm cranking at around 14 volts.
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Here's my video of it doing it: [URL].....
98 e-450 rv cutaway with the 7.3 PSD. 219k.
Here's what I have done so far
-New GPR
-New Glow Plugs
-New CPS
-unplugged the PCM, and re-plugged
When it cuts out like the first time in the video, the accelerator pedal does nothing at all. Then once the WTS and CEL go off, it's fine again for a bit.
It seems to only do it when the engine is cold as well. After I had driven it around the block a few times and let it idle, it got better. I was able to drive it 20 miles round trip without it cutting out.
Also, might be related, it has been random on power since I got it. Sometimes I have to floor the accelerator to get up a hill, sometimes I barely need to touch it.
What to check next? It's hard to tell if it's de-fueling or if it's an electrical issue.
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I have no ground to glow plug solenoid, wiring is ok right up to the computer. Where I should go from there?
Its a 2001 E450 PSD. glow plugs not coming on at all.
should I be checking an engine temp sensor?
I don't have a wiring diagram so I am going in somewhat blind. ]
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2000 Ford 7.3 E450 120,000 miles...
I have changed the CPS twice
I have checked the resistance of the injectors at the IDM connector with a volt meter and the harness reports back good.
The truck will run with ether for a few seconds
I have changed the fuel filter.
The fuel bowl fills quickly
I have unplugged the ICP.
The truck is showing low voltage on the gauge with a good battery. Around 10v
I have connected my 200amp car starter and I never see over 10v. I plan to check the grounds, but I am at a loss.
Everything is difficult because this is a van body so space is limited. I have also plugged in the block heater for an hour and that hasn't made any difference. Where can I get the best price on an AE scanner.
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My issue is not with the truck starting its with it staying running. I had plugged in all the night prior and all day while at work. When my shift was over went out started fine let it run for about 20 minutes and left to make my way home. During the trip it ran fine for about 1/2 a mile and then it started idling really rough at a stop light went to go threw the light and it as though I had left it out all night with plugging it in. I went to turn on a side street because this situation was not going to end well and it died trying to turn. It would not start back up I was able to get a jump and made another 1/4 of a mile and it died right in front of my house. I replaced both the batteries this morning and it fired right up lasted about a minute and then died again. All the gauge read fine, oil level is good, and the injectors were replaced 2 years ago.
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I have a 1999 f250 super duty and something keeps draining my battery, I replaced the old one and im having the same problem. What could it be?
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My starter solenoid keeps dying. I can't use a retail chain part. They burn up in a day. Always Motorcraft and it only lasts a year or so.
Any way to test this thing to see why it burns out prematurely?
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In the last 15k miles, I've replaced the led lights on my driver side mirror twice already, and come to see this morning: they are out again. The turn signal LEDs still work, but the parking lights don't work anymore. Passenger side is fine.
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My truck has been sitting more lately, which means up to a week without starting and running. Each time this happens I run into a dead battery. And I mean dead. I've charged it fully and then used the truck no problem.
We did a test where we unhooked the negative terminal wiring clamp and ran a meter to check for amp draw. We did this by touching the meter leads to the negative post clamp (unhooked) and to the negative post on the battery. It gives a reading of ~1.5 amps. Trying to figure out where the drain might be.
Otherwise, we'll jut pull each fuse to see if we find the electrical area drawing the amps.
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