Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2006 E450 AC Compressor Leaks Freon
Sep 29, 2016
OK, until I figure out what to do with the other truck I overheated, I've got another ambulance that needs some work, and I got to have a truck running.
This is the same config - 2006 E450 6.0 dually ambulance with 122K. Starts and runs; I drove it all the way to Houston from Minnesota when I bought it and made several shorter trips since with no problems except the AC compressor leaks freon. Then, I found oil in the degas bottle. A tech said it needs an oil cooler and he says there's some leakage at the rear main seal that's "common with this engine."
Can't recall reading a lot of rear main seal issues here. Is that right? Is oil cooler the obvious diagnosis for oil in the coolant?
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So recently my bus has been having issues shutting down on us. It started about 6 weeks ago. My band was on our way to a gig about 5 hours away from home. We got about 30 minutes outside of our destination and the bus just quit on us. After sitting for about 30 minutes, and switching some relays around, its fired back up and we made it to our destination. The ride back home the next day was pretty rough; it happened 3 more times...
We took it out again about 3 weeks ago for a trip about half the distance and the bus quit on us about 20 minutes into the journey. It took about an hour or so of sitting on the side of the highway before it started back up. Rather than try to risk making the trip, we turned around, dropped the bus off, and found alternative transportation...
I should probably add that the bus sat for about 3 or 4 months during the ridiculously harsh winter we had here this year, as we took the winter off from gigging. It was unplugged the entire time as it was stored in a parking lot across the street from my shop where I couldn't plug it in anywhere...
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Ok, so I have a Viair onboard compressor supplying air to airbags, train horn and fitting in the rear. With all that, I have multiple connections and some leak ever so slightly making the compressor cycle ever few hours. Question: Is there some sealant I can use with push on fittings and connectors to eliminate the leaks?
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I have a 6.0 in a 2004 E-450 that starts and runs like a top except that it will not idle below 750rpm. If I give it just a tad of throttle it runs well. You can slowly let off the throttle and when it gets below the 700 it just dies like you turn the key off. Ford dealer spent piles of money on it and couldn't figure it out.
Got it in my Powerstroke shop and replaced CMP & CKP & tried another FICM. Is it possible that it would be the accelerator pedal assembly? The volts are what they should be but it dies so fast that the scanner can't see what's happening till it's too late.
It comes up with P2132, P2122, P2127, P2138, P2139 which are throttle related but am wondering if anything else could cause this before I start throwing more stuff on it.
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I have an option to buy a e450 with a 6.0, 100k mi, with a utility body. I have the same thing but an 03 with a 7.3. this van has some known issues, biggest being it sat for a year and a half. it was parked due to excessive smoke out the exhaust. Ford shop diagnosed it as bad head gaskets, personally I am not believing it. There is no evidence of puking on the degas cap, and someone removed the band clamp from the down pipe and there is nothing but a little soot, so I don't really think a turbo seal either. The batteries were dead tonight so I am going to take a set of batteries down and see what happens. he is only asking 6000 as is. I am thinking probably egr cooler, egr valve or injector problem. If I buy it I am going to install a new oil cooler, blue spring, clean the turbo and delete the egr. Late 2004 engine btw.
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I have a 2008 E450 with a 6.0 and 5w110 trans. It started to leak at the bell housing. I figured it might be the front tc seal so I dropped the trans and replaced the seal. Reinstalled trans but its still leaking from the junction of engine and trans and from where the starter goes into the trans.
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How does one pressure test for air leaks??? Truck is a 04/04 F250 with 198K ICP sensor in the valve cover.
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Early 04 but 06 motor, Coolant filter, BPD EGR cooler, Head studs. I did use the search tool, overloaded with EGR cooler leaks and head gasket failure in the results.
Noticed ECT Spiking 217 (EOT 187)as went to post office,10 min run time from a cold start. Checked Degas a bit low, did my business and went home. Got home ECT 223 EOT(221) zero coolant in Degas and notice this mess. as well as puddling up under radiator.
I left the truck running and added some water to the degas hoping I could spot the leak, no love.
On our trucks do we have a weep hole for the water pump? I didn't notice any water or stains around it or the pulley. Nothing around the hoses either... yet.
Once it cools I am going to pull the fan shroud and look for a possible hole in radiator. Are there any other suspect areas?
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I have an 11 F350 6.7. It has just under 200K miles on it. The other day I was driving home, about 100 miles, and my truck's temp spiked. Not like a little spike, but jumped to the 3/4 mark (if there was one) then slowly kept rising to to the overheat mark. I pulled off onto the hard shoulder waited an hour or so to let it cool down, then finished the drive home. All the way home my temp gauge seemed like it was on some sort of drug. It would jump a needle width when I would have to accelerate, then slowly cool to normal after I got up to cruising speed.
Up until this point this truck has been exceedingly reliable. I pull a 13k 5th wheel once a month and drive about 40k-ish miles a year. I also had to refill my degas bottle up to the fill line. Took 2 gallons of Ford VC-3-B Coolant and water mix. After a short run to verify the problem, it took another 1/4 to 1/2 gallon of mix. But, no overheating. No signs of leaks anywhere. Just a strong scent of coolant on shutdown outside the truck. Pressure tested the cap, I don't have a way of testing the system pressure.
Data from Autoenginuity:
Engine Oil temp 195-202 Degrees
Engine Coolant #1: 188.2-199.5 Degrees.
Engine Coolant #2: 125.5-129.9 Degrees.
I have the full CSV file.
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i am recently a new owner of a 2006 6.0 F-350. So like any other used rig, it has its quirks. So the one that is bugging me to s the steering. It has been surging hard while driving. It mostly does this when cold. It feels like it's bouncing back and forth then I have to stop and force it from lock to lock. Once I do this it seems to stop it till the next day. I checked the PS reservoir and it's full. The power steering pump looks like it has a slight leak but doesn't seem to be a major issue. The lines going into the steer box are clean and no leaks...
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I have had a slight oil leak at the front of the engine for a while, and slight oil leak on the pass rear of the engine, and recently got a decent oil leak in the rear drivers side of the engine. I want to fix all three leaks if I can identify what is wrong.
Leak 1 : Front of the engine. This has been leaking a drop or two of oil every few days for over a year. Slight leak so I didnt worry about it. The leak is dripping from between the crank pulley and the engine. Is it likely the front crank seal is leaking, or maybe something above it?
Leak 2 : Rear of engine pass side. There has been a slight oil leak on this side of the rear engine for about a year too. It leaks about a drop of oil a day. I can see that the oil is all over the starter though.
Leak 3 : This just started and is a decent leak. It is dripping off the exhaust manifold as seen in the picture below and leaks a 6 inch circle of oil on the ground in a week.
Maybe leak 2 and 3 are connected? I tried to get a good look of the engine and without pulling anything off, I couldn't see any oil leaks on the top of the engine. I couldn't see the HPOP cover though because the turbo was in the way.
NOTE: I do park my truck in the driveway every day and our driveway is slanted quite a bit with the nose of the truck much higher than the back.
Here are some pics of the oil leaks:
Under pass side of truck, oil on starter : [URL] ....
Under the Drivers exhaust manifold : [URL] .....
Bottom front of engine, between pulley and engine : [URL] .....
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My Avalon 2006 A/C system was diagnosed with Freon leaks. Mechanic can not locate the leak and he feels it will be from the evaporator down the dash board. He is talking about a $1000.00 job plus one week of the car in the shop. My question is:
1) What the probabilities are that the leak is down the dash?
2) It will be a very intense labor or is anyway to make more simple job?
3) Would a dealer do a better job with the diagnose?
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Ok, '99 F450 has had a/c problem for couple years and finally getting around to fixing it(co. truck and enough people complained).
When dead cold, compressor will cycle quickly, like low on freon. Low side goes from 40 to 20 and back again as it cycles. Put a set of good gauges on it today and I can't get it to turn on at all. Even jumped both hi and lo switches.
Originally I was thinking it was the clutch, but when cold I was able to jump switches and make it run continuously. I didn't have gauges then and didn't want to burn it up so now I have gauges and it won't come on at all(when warm). Will have to wait a couple days til I can try it again when cold(like in the morning before it gets used).
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I am a second owner to a 2008 GX Blizzard Pearl that I love. Have had the truck 4 years.
Truck has 83k miles. Is it time to change the timing belt, water pump, etc? Has never been done.
Aircon issues. Freon leaks out. Leak seems to be behind firewall, but mechanics have not been able to locate the leak.
Hate the wheels on the truck now that the paint is blistering.
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The clutch in my ac compressor is not releasing causing it stay on all the time and not cycle and get hot and freeze up the system. Also pulley seems to be angled like it's not sitting straight. Can I just replace the clutch on the front? if so what's all involved. I need to do the entire compressor?
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2005 F350 6 liter.
AC compressor clutch was toast. Thought it was just the clutch. Started to notice the truck struggling to start, with some smoke on acceleration that was not present before.
Today, paid a guy to replace my AC compressor clutch. He called me out a bit ago to show me what he found.
Looks like it was not the actual clutch. Looks like the bearing on the pulley took a crap. Bearings got wedged between the face of the pulley and the clutch. Mangled up the compressor clutch coil as well. The actual pulley, snapped off the bearing part. Pulley was only held on by the center bolt on the clutch hub. So, long story short, the compressor is locked up. Have to replace it.
This guy tells me he cannot do it, because to remove the compressor ,the motor has to be unbolted from the motor mounts and raised. Is this true? I have a service manual, that does not say anything about that at all. It does indicate that the compressor has to be removed with the third bolt loosened but still in place.
Can I get some info on the removal of the AC compressor in this truck? The idler/tensioner pulley has already been removed. The fan shroud has been removed.
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Ok so I have another issue. This is one of three right now. Had the truck flat bedded home due to a seized rear caliper. Carrier bearing is causing vibration, will replace that this weekend. My question is does the ac compressor spin even if the ac or heat isn't on? Mine wasn't spinning today when the truck was idling. Should it always spin and just not be "engaged " my ect was quite high too but I thought that was due to the locked up brake.
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Compressor continually clicks off and on..... No cold air.... Checked freon seems to be full.... Big line never gets cold?
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So the A/C compressor died on my truck. I am looking at replacing it myself and it looks rather tight in there. My labor manual says I have to pull the fan/fan clutch, fan shroud and right inner fender to gain access.
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I got a 2001 f150 leaking freon on the back of the compressor, can't afford to fix this summer. When I add freon should I get the freon with oil in to get oil in the system or just add regular can of freon, it took about 6 weeks before I need to add any.
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I bought this 16' box truck today. 7.3L, 213k, 2003. It doesn't start and the owner gave a really good bottom dollar deal for all these reasons. Showing up armed with Torque Pro and my bluetooth adapter, I proceeded to plug it in and check for rpms, HPOP, Battery voltage, etc. No power to port
Find fuse diagram the owner located and fuse 23 is the OBD port. No fuse in place. He found us a fuse, I plugged it in, viola! Power to the port, TP is in action, ready to troubleshoot.
"Charged" battery, start cranking...no start. No Torque Pro (!) Apparently, the OBD port is cut-off while cranking .... Is there some other fuse or connection that will keep it connected during cranking so I can check for RPMs (no dash gauge for it)?
As soon as I left off the starter, the HPOP on TP showed 1212 then 850, then continued to drop with in about 2 secs. I figure it is getting good HPOP and this is the momentary bleed off.
PO replaced some time ago CPS with Autozone or something in an attempt to start it. No go. I am going to take my "emergency" CPS next time to see if that does it.
Because of the cranking-cutout, I cannot see FIPW. No way to know if the injectors are firing. It had reportedly been running a short time ago (weeks maybe?) and shut off while parked in the parking lot and never started again.
Batteries are low, but new-ish starter and cranks well. With jumpers, able to maintain 10.8v or so while cranking, though it was a bit up and down. I'll take a strong charger with 200amp boost mode next time.
Fuel pump runs. I can feel/hear it when the key is cycled. It has standard Rotella 15w-40w on this 50F day. Reportedly *wants* to be plugged in to start. I plan to switch to 5w-40w synthetic as soon as I can get it home.
It's automatic, pretty sure all van/stock. Here's a pic. Dog box gives good access to turbo and such, but everything else...
One battery under hood, other under cab/body. Has green antifreeze and leak at thermostat.
My goal is to get it running to get it home, about 30 miles, then replace ICP, CPS, IPR, Glowplugs (relay already done), thermostat and top housing and hose, convert to lifetime antifreeze, oil change to 5w-40w synthetic, 2 batteries (test alternator), uppipes or gaskets, Air filter (what upgrades available for this?), UVCH, idler pulleys and belt, replace trans fluid and filter, couple tires, paint inside box, weld and reinforce rear bumper, add radio, check cigarette plugs (think cell phones and gps), general cleanup.
I will have it and run it around 30 days. If it is solid and reliable, off to West Virginia it goes. If not, I'll part it out to get back what I can from it. I am paying for it up front, they are raising donations. But I won't let them pay anything (costs only) for it until I'm satisfied.
They need to run it about 5hrs round trip once a month immediately. That's about 3k miles per year. But I'm sure they will find lots of other uses, such as building supplies, etc. I'm hoping the injectors hold up for a while.
Right now they have multiple vehicles, trailers, drivers donating their time and vehicles (reimbursed for fuel only). It would be much better to take one hauling truck and one or two passenger vehicles... hence the box truck idea.
They distributed approximately 100k lbs of food last year. Not refrigerated, not needed. No CDL needed, about 14k GAVW. The PO has offered his carport where it is parked now, or even to push it into his garage with limited tools (I can bring some) to get it to run. Otherwise...
How to get this home?? Too heavy for my buddy's tow truck from the front. Wheels too far from back of box to reach them from the rear. No tow loops in front for tow bar, UHaul dolly rated at 4k (maybe?)
Dual rear wheels. Anything else I'm missing?
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