Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2006 - Cranks But No Start After Doing Head Gaskets
Nov 18, 2016
I have a 2006 6.0 that i did head gaskets on about a year ago. While I was in there I put some new pistons a valves in as well. I finished doing the job and it started and ran great just smoking a little bit. Test drove it a couple of times and still seemed great but still smoking. (white smoke) about a week went by with me driving the truck then one day driving to work I parked it then all of a sudden the truck shut off like some one hit the key and wouldn't restart after that. Either doesn't work i put a ficm in it before the head gaskets went out. new HPOP before head gaskets. I get oil pressure in the dash but it takes a long time to build up. cranks like a dream but doesn't even try to fire.
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Ran fine, did the head gaskets ,egr delete, oil cooler and 12mm dummy plugs. Primed the fuel system, oil pressure looks good on the guage , spins fine but doesn't seem to be making any attempt at starting . Gave it a shot of quick start and it never so much as kicked. Everything looks good, nothing leaking and nothing obvious. To top it off we are without power after Hurricane Mathew left his mark.
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If you have a blown head gasket on a 6.0, after the gaskets were removed would you be able to tell where the gasket failed?
Since the gaskets are metal or multilayer metal in some cases would you be unable to tell where the gasket failed or would it always be visible?
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I just had headgaskets (oem) studs, egr delete,oil cooler done on my 06 plus water pump cause the gasket blew. I have a sct livewire hooked up monitoring everything and tonight i noticed that the eot and ect's were way off. fully warmed up and rolling 65 Anywhere from 40*-50* out it was eot-156 and ect-172. Degas bottle was at the normal level.
I am also having issues with the fuel gauge. Every now and then the gauge will go to E and the miles to E will display ---. Turn the truck off and back on it works again. I am half assuming its the plug on the sending unit or the sending unit itself.
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I just pulled the cab and did headgaskets, studs. I put everything back together and when I turn the key, nothing, no lights, zero.
I've checked all connections and batteries are good, checked all fuses, where to start with this?
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So I am just wrapping up getting my head gaskets done for the second time. Last time was 7 yrs ago. Truck now has 90K mi on it and I have had nothing but Matt's tunes on it since the head gaskets were done originally. I have only towed once and I put the 8K tow tune on for that trip.
ARP studs were used but heads were not decked then. OEM gaskets, done by Ford.
So a head gasket failures with ARP studs and doing everything else the FTE way?
New heads are decked and o-ringed. Planning to go a little more gentle with the tuning, but don't really want to. Driving it stock just sucks.
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Just bought a 2005 F250 PSD, got a smoking deal on it. It has 321k miles and has been very well taken care of however I do believe that it either needs a new oil cooler or has bad head gaskets. Pictured below you will see what the coolant looked like when I let the first batch lose. It does not seem foamy, which is interesting to me, however there is NO EGR to cause this soot.
About the truck:
- It was bulletproofed at 50k miles (EGR delete, ARP head studs, etc).
- There is no puking of coolant (drove it 100 miles from where I purchased it and nothing)
- When the truck is started you have to let it warm up for about 10 minutes,otherwise it seems to not have full power. (was going to reflash the ECU in hopes this repaired that problem).
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Like usual, i have a problem that no one else has and it sounds like its something electrical/sensor/PCM related.
Every few mornings, ill go out to my truck and go to fire it up...and it'll just crank away. After i give up on cranking and shut the key off, go to try again, it fires up instantly, like nothing is wrong. Sometimes in the morning itll just have an extended crank but eventually start. Regardless...it always starts. Sometimes it cranks really strong the entire time, sometimes the crank gets weaker the longer you crank...i don't think its HPO related, but i definitely could be wrong.
Ficm voltage looks good KOEO, cranking and running. I had my batteries tested at ford a few weeks ago and they "said" they were good (motorcraft 850ccas). Alternator is strong. When cranking, ive seen the voltage drop anywhere from 10.2 to 9.4v. I never know when this is going to happen and i can't hook up AE every morning and sit and wait, but based on my scangauge, i see ICP shoot up to over 1500 as soon as it fires.
Only code I've gotten is P0148, which is fuel delivery error/engine speed higher than expected. I've gone ahead and replaced my camshaft position sensor with a ford sensor a few days ago...it hasn't done a no-start yet, but it did do an extended crank. I think my next stop is PCM replacement...
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New alternator, fairly new batteries....after sitting 5 days or more, it cranks but no start.....put on charger for four hours, it fires right up...
Voltage on the multimeter shows 12.45 on both batteries......could there be something drawing down the amps? If so how do I find it?
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So I'll give a little history. Had blown head gaskets so I tackled that got it back together and now I can't get it to start. I have a monitor but it won't tell me if I have ficm sync. I have 1500 psi cop reading. I have spinning it over far 15 to 20 minutes. I'm using a bluetooth scanner and a app on my phone. I have no codes thrown or anything else. Do I keep cranking on it or am i missing something.
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I'm going to be doing head gaskets on my 2006 F350 6.0. I know I need the head bolt tool and head lifting fixture. I have the tool to release the injector wiring plug from the head. Are there any other specialty tools I need? I saw in Hot Rod magazine a few months ago there was a new head gasket for the 6.0. Unfortunately I don't have the magazine anymore. I can't remember the brand of gasket. I know everyone in the past has said use OEM Ford head gaskets. Lastly, can I do the head gasket job and put studs in without pulling the cab or HVAC box?
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2007 6.0 my dash lights will flicker when the key is turned on and the truck wil crank but won't start, but when the lights stop flickering truck starts .. How to fix the flickering dash light?
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My truck usually starts up great, but every so often it takes 3 to 4 long cranks before it will start. By long cranks I mean more than 4 or 5 seconds of turnover. Seems to be no real rhyme or reason to this. It does it engine cold or hot. I have iPhone engine monitor app and numbers seem fine. BTW it's a 2005.
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I got a 2003 6.0 powerstroke cranks but wont start once it gets hot let it sit for a couple of hours and it fires right up already replaced high pressure pump no leaks visible and when running its great will run till run till fuel runs out. what to check?
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Couple weeks ago fuel tank started coming apart clogged all filters. Replaced tank filters and fuel pump and blew out all of lines. Started and ran fine. Stays plugged in over night but now it'll crank but wont start. No codes showing up or anything...
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I drove the truck Sunday to 3 different places, parked it around 3:00 pm. Went to take it to work the next morning and it just cranked with no start. I pulled the codes as I have an edge insight. I got a P2614 code so I figured it was the cam sensor. We after some reading to what everyone had to say I checked to see if I had RPM when I got home and I did so that put me back to having no clue. I took as many readings as I could to see if any one might see something that I am not.
ICP psi 1280 cranking 23 key on
IPR 41% cranking 14 key on
IPW ms 0.00 cranking and key on
Fuel Pressure 63.1 cranking
ICP voltage 1.6 cranking .3 key on
Mass Air flow 8.3-10.7 cranking 0.00 key on
Engine RPM 166-205 cranking
FICM 47.0-47.5
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Friends truck, 06 with 135k. Problem he's having is, truck cranks over fine but doesn't fire, if he kick starts it, it fires right up. Haven't had the chance to put my AE on it, figured I throw it out there.
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Went to the store came home no problems. Went out to go to work next morning truck won't start. Cranks just fine just doesn't try to run. Was not getting voltage at ficm replaced board in ficm have correct voltage now but still won't start
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I have a 6 liter 2005 e350 diesel that starts great when cold and runs well all the time but after it warms up it just cranks but won't fire up. But if i shoot ether into the intake it will start. It doesn't show any failure codes.
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My 2004 Excursion 6.0 4x4 is leaking oil around the gaskets. Does this usually just call for replacing the gaskets and is there anything that needs to be checked or upgraded while the engine is out? It looks like the engine needs to be taken totally out although I have heard it just has to be lifted a little.
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I have a 2004 F250 Superduty with the 2003 6.0 Powerstroke inside of it. In the morning i can go out and start the truck perfectly fine starts up and runs like a champ, it will drive to any destination perfectly fine with no issues, ALTHOUGH .... once i reach where im going if i turn the truck off it will not start correctly. it cranks over and will start but sounds as if it is hydrolocking and in a matter of seconds kills itself. once it does this i have to let the truck sit for a minimum of 4-5 hours with the hood popped to allow motor to cool... as soon as its cooled completely i can start it and once again it runs perfectly fine until i turn it off again. if i leave it running at an idle it will sit and idle all day long and i can jump in and drive it fine. It just happens when it gets turned off.
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