My mechanic put a used 2005 PMC in my 2004 powerstroke. Now tachometer does not work, trans and coolant temp guages don't work and drives as if it is stuck in 3rd. gear. Does it need flashed @ a ford dealer to sync the two together?
View 14 Replies2005 6.0L... Driving to work today, doing about 70mph looked down at the gauges and the tach was reading just above 1k the whole time. Even when I accelerated hard.
Got off the highway and came to a stop light and the tach went below zero (almost rested on top of the boost gauge) light turns green goes up to about 1k but no higher even though I stepped into it a bit.
Got to work and turned the truck off and then turned it back on and the tack started working again.
No mods to the truck other then a stereo system attached to the factory stereo wiring harness. I called the stealership and of course they want the truck to look at. I am curious if it is going to work or not on the way home.
I have an 06 f250 6.0. When I bought it a few weeks ago I turn the key on and let the glow plugs warm up and start the truck it would start easily. Now it seems like it's taking longer to start . The temperature are between 50 and 80 degrees. I changed the fuel filters and it's still taking to long to start.
2nd I noticed today that when my truck is at idle the Tachometer is at 0 and when I'm driving 60-70 MPh it goes up to 900 or maybe 1200. It seems to be running fine no loss of power that I can tell. What could be causing the long crank time and my Tachometer problems.
the glow plugs and injectors are new I don't remember the brand and the fuel filters are brand new Motorcraft.
Long story short: Got EGR Cooler and Oil cooler installed last week. New headgaskets and bolts. New down pipe. New orings on injectors. HPOP was installed 3 months ago before any of the above work.
Truck drove great for about 100 miles. Then stalled at a stop light. Restarted it. Drove another 10 miles. Truck then dies on me at 25mph. Wouldn't restart immediately. 10 minutes later it started. I drove it back home (couple miles). When i hit the last stop light, the idle immediately changed to crap. Very rough. Got home and parked it and since then I have not been able to start it.
I changed the EGR Valve, tried to start it and it wouldn't. Changed IPR Valve. Put all back together. No start. Cranked beautifully. But doesn't sound like it's taking fuel. note - no buzz/clicking from injectors and no fuel pump noise.
Here are my readings. FICM Sync - 1. I am stumped. I did recommended KOEO, checked emergency fuel switch reset, batteries are at 13.5 avg, checked harness wires and found one connector that wasn't snapped in cause the retaining clips were broken. Getting this connector replaced. Found another wire below chaffed. It is on the intake manifold. what is it for and could this be my problem? Pic below? This is where it connects to intake chaffed. The top of the two wires where they go into the connector were twisted around each other. Maybe wire to wire, maybe not. Would this cause my injectors to not buzz or fuel pump to not come on???
I installed a sct tuner on my truck and used the default street flash and my #3 injector promptly took a dump. Will a tuner kill injectors?
I just finished up oil cooler rebuild studs, blue spring and egr delete.
Now it looks like i have more injectors going bad.
I have 147,000 miles on the truck.
Installed a 20'' light bar on my 2012 and when I turn on the Aux 1 uplifter switch my radio stations have static. This was not the case before the install. I have the hot wire tied into the Aux 1 (25amp) switch. Ground is run to drivers side battery ground. Do I need some kind of relay in line?
View 5 RepliesI towed my 32 ft/ 600lb travel trailer 115 miles into arkansas today. When I arrived at the campground, the engine was running rough and shaking the vehicle. I saw highs of 175 (trans temp) 1150 (EGT), 214 (ECT), and 224 (EOT).
I recently installed the canned trans tune from my new SCT X4.
I pulled codes (none), checked cylinder misfire count on scangauge 2 (none). In fact, all gauges on the SG2 were within spec. I popped the hood and let it idle for 15 mins. Temps all dropped down to what I usually see after normal driving (not towing).
The engine did start to calm down as it cooled, but still sounded a rough
I installed the Roll X on my truck on the 27th of June. On several occasions I have found one corner has come unlatched. I'm not sure if it is from the bed flexing when I go over a bump or what?
View 2 RepliesI've had the Ford Remote Access installed on my pickup for over a year now and it's worked great up until about a week ago when I changed cell phone providers from AT&T to Verizon. Now when trying to use the app I get the error code 00011000. I up-dated the app to reflect the new carrier but it still doesn't work. And yes, my subscription to the service is current. What I need to do to get this working again, with winter just around the corner I'd sure like to have this functional again. I figured I'd give the forum a shot before I resort going to the dealer.
View 14 RepliesI'll preface by saying, my technical know how ends with swapping out lights. I'm sure this is an easy fix, but not sure where to look first. I recently got a pair of smoked out taillights and 3rd brake light and installed the tails..................easy job. Finally climbed up on the back to swap out the 3rd.............lights worked before I disconnected. Connected the new one, no go, so figured, I bet bulbs are out. Plugged original back in, no lights. Figuring I tripped a fuse somewhere.................any tips finding the right fuse?
View 6 RepliesI just bought the batteries I was asking about in this posting. Bought them at auto zone on my lunch hour today, they swapped them out right there in the lot, no problems. Watched carefully to make sure terminals were not crossed, etc. When I came out of work a few hours later, the #20 fuse for door locks was blown. I chalked it up to the battery change, and put a new fuse back when I got home. I come out an hour later to leave, and the fuse is blown again. I have not replaced it again, need to go get more of the proper amp rating.
No other changes to the truck other than the battery replacement. And that's the only anomaly. No other problems, nothing. Getting ready to head cross-country on a skiing trip, this Friday, so there really is no time to get to the dealer to get this looked at.
It's my turn, while out site seeing my back seat power window don't work , the control from drivers seat or from the back seat door control, I popped both covers on the control switch and both are firmly plugged in, I don't have my meter with me to see if power is running back to the switch , this morning I'll try to switch out the two back seat controls to see if I can get at least that window to go down , 04 350 , would there be a fuse for each or is it in the switch in the door that the harness plugs into , that's the only window that won't go down...
View 8 Replies2007 F250SD, R/H power mirror with LED lights no work. All other lights and L/H mirror work fine. Checked the fuse in passenger compartment, it's good. Where to start looking?
View 5 RepliesI can't get the damn auto unlock to work. I've enabled it and disabled it and nothing still reset it all and all that just got the truck....
View 7 RepliesSo I bought my truck about three months ago. The first day I got it I obviously wasn't paying so much attention to the key, that I didn't notice that my keyfob wouldn't work at all or had limited distance. Anyways, I go to the dealership and the keyfob(Normal one, NO Remote Start) works perfect for them every time. I have been so frustrated with this for a couple of weeks now, I decided to take it into my own hands and take it apart and see whats going in there.
On the top right side of the key, there is a gap between the two plastic pieces that you can fit a flathead in and turn to open up the actual key. In between those pieces is a rubber mat type thing, I assume to keep water out. After you take that off, you will see the battery. On BOTH of my keys, there was this clear goo stuff, which again I will assume that it's some sort of contact/battery protector put on by the factory.
Well the text on the inside of the key says not to wipe the battery contacts, but I took a Cu-Tip and got all the clear stuff off the battery and contacts! I now have 100 yard distance with my key. It works EVERYTIME now.
I have a 15 F350 DRW 6.7 pulling a 19K fiver with 8K axles and disc brakes, I have to have my brake controller set at 10 to get the brakes to work well. The pads are good, just bled the system using a power bleeder, controller is set to electric over hydraulic with max gain. Why I need to have the controller set to max?
View 14 RepliesI noticed my A/C hasn't been up to par. It's not bad when driving but just ok when idling. So today I changed the orfice tube and the accumulator. Vacuumed the sys. down and charged it up, 2 lbs 10 oz. It is worse! the compressor kicks on and off constantly only cooling to 80 degrees.
I noticed the high goes right up to 350 then the compressor shuts off .... 7 seconds later, back on and up to 350lbs and off again. I think the high-pressure switch is shutting the compressor off before anything goes kaboom but why isn't my fan cooling the condenser down? my FSS shows no increase in fan speed. Sitting at 450.
I think I'm going to cool the condenser down with a hose now to see if that works. If so, That would be telling me the fan isn't doing it's job correct?
I have a 2015 Ford F-450 6.7L Diesel with a 12 foot flatbed on it that I use for my power washing business. The air conditioner sometimes won't work when I first drive it in the morning. After I make a few stops and turn the engine on/off a few times it will all of the sudden start working again.
This happens about 2 or 3 times a month and I don't have time to have it sit at Ford so they can duplicate the problem. It's going in for it's 60,000 mile service in the morning anyways so I'll still have the dealer look at it. What might be causing this?
2015 Ford F-450 6.7L Diesel 12 Foot Flatbed
I recently did the high idle mod but as many of you know it does not work with remote start. I found the below link on how to make it work with rewiring how the aux switches receive power. Are the aux switches hot all the time even with the key off?
[URL] ....
No matter what I do with the settings for my heater in my lariat air only blows out of the dash vents. Defrost and floor vents don't work it still blows hot air out of the dash vents. I'm not sure what the deal is maybe the vacuum system? I did a search and all I could find was people having trouble with air ONLY blowing out of the defroster and my case is just the opposite.
View 8 RepliesI have the later model 2004 F250 6.0 (built May 2004). I have owned it since new. It has 157K miles.
My newest problem comes after I did oil cooler work. I know everyone points to the IPR and/or ICP, but my readings seem strange to me.
About three weeks ago I replaced the oil cooler with a Bulletproof remote unit that uses the factory oil cooler. During the job I removed and installed a new Ford IPR sensor and added the improved screen to it. I removed and installed new Ford water/oil temp sensors, a Ford low oil pressure sensor, and a Ford ICP sensor (in the pax valve cover). I also installed the improved turbo feed line and turbo drain tube. I rebuilt the oil filter/fuel housing and installed new o-rings and the blue spring. I have the dual alternator set-up and had been running the lower alternator unplugged for the last several years. (I know I know). So I swapped in a reman alternator.
I managed start-up after running batteries dead a few times. During the drive I felt idle speed jump up by itself a few times while at low RPM. I felt an unusual skip or two in the motor but the power seemed ok. I accelerated and the truck pulled fine. At highway speed I heard what sounded like the engine hitting a high rev and trying to cut out, but it was very mild. I noticed this first at 2000rpm, but it may have not been pronounced enough for me to notice it at lower RPM. When the cut-out occurred strongest I slammed the throttle down to see if the problem would worsen, but the truck accelerated well with no cut-out, but when I eased off the throttle at higher RPM the cutting out returned. My Banks IQ showed P2284.
I installed 2 new batteries and replaced the ICP pigtail and soldiered it. That had no effect. I put the old ICP sensor back in. That had no effect. I borrowed a Snap-on Solus Edge scanner to test the truck. I would add that the truck starts up as quick as it has always started; 3-5 seconds.
Scanner results:
Key-on, engine off, ICP (voltage) reads .25, IPR reads 15.
During the crank sequence (before engine start), on a freeze frame, RPM is 157, ICP(voltage) reads 1.04, IPR reads 21, ICP pressure reads 768.8 psi. That seemed kinda normal.
Engine running at idle RPM, I read ICP (voltage) 1.2, IPR 15, ICP pressure 863.1psi. That seemed okay.
I drove the truck with a cleared code and noted that something occurred to change my readings. Before the change while driving under a short heavy acceleration to 54mph, I noted these readings: 3533rpm, ICP (voltage) 3.77, IPR 60, ICP pressure 3400.1. I eased off the throttle, stopped the truck, and noted an uncommanded REV-up by a few hundred RPM and back to idle. It was a quick burp. Afterwards ICP pressure and IPR readings went strange and the code 2284 came up. Looking at the graphs over time, RPM, ICP pressure, ICP voltage, and IPR all follow a similar curve---until the REV-up occurred.
The scanner next showed that as I mildly accelerated to 1705 RPM (about 15mph) graphs showed ICP voltage, ICP pressure, and IPR went up. But when I let off the throttle ICP pressure became fixed at 869.9. I continued to drive the truck.
The truck accelerated fine as it had under previous runs. The Scanner shows that although ICP pressure remains fixed, the ICP voltage climbs and falls with RPM. With RPM ranging from 630 to 1800, IPR holds at about 30. Then under a very heavy acceleration to 44mph, ICP pressure began to increase above 869.9, then followed ICP voltage upwards. ICP pressure climbed to 3479psi with an ICP voltage of 4.64. At that moment IPR read 69%. That seemed normal until I let off the throttle. Then ICP pressure drops back to exactly 869.9 which I assume is some sort of PCM-induced value.
It is during this time at higher RPMs I can hear the engine-cut-outs, but they are mild and the engine still responds to heavy acceleration. I have accelerated full throttle to 100mph and saw max boost values of 29psi (stock program). On engine shut-down and restart the problem seems to reset itself and the truck will run normally for a bit before the failure occurs.
To correct the problem I have removed the banks equipment. There was no change. I have ordered the ICP short connector that will allow me to test actual voltage on the ICP while the engine is running. I plan to soldier some wires and run the meter into the cab for testing.
The scanner reads a desired ICP pressure as well as the actual ICP pressure. When the failure occurs both the desired and actual read 869.9 at less than heavy acceleration.
The scanner also reads desired RPM as well as actual RPM. Desired RPM remains pegged at 640rpm all the time.
Also, engine running the FICM voltage in is 13.5 and voltage out was 47.5.
On the very last test run I got two new codes: P2138 and P2140. I had run the truck with my foot on the floor on that test. Is this a glitch or does this play into my problem?