Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2005 Truck Buck / Miss Not Just Under Load
May 21, 2016
Truck has not been bullet proofed and has aftermarket air intake. Truck has 185km on it (purchased at 160km a year ago). For the Ham Radio guys out there, this is the most electrically noisy vehicle I've owned with S9+ noise while accelerating and S7 going down the highway ...
The faults show up as:edit Can be hard to start cold, takes couple of tries if it's been sitting for a bit (week or more)
No power when cold, that is a lot of pedal results in little power
Misses a lot when cold
Light blue smoke when missing when cold
When fully warmed up which takes 15 minutes of idling regardless the time of year:under load (heavy acceleration while loaded or not, or just in towing, or carrying) it misses a few times a minute, otherwise runs well
It feels like it just doesn't fire a cylinder if it were a gasser, or as if the spark plug weren't connected, but it's not a constant miss, it is intermittent. No load means hardly any misses. Load means lots of misses even running down the road. Should be pulling hard up a hill where it misses lots more.
What I've looked at :
FICM voltage 47.8 standing, 47.6 cranking and running.
FICM is aftermarket and there are no cold solder joints.
Added Archoil 9100 with no change
Wires to FICM are tight and connectors aren't cracked
edit Wires to Injectors are tight and connectors aren't cracked
Exhaust temps range between 500F and 800F during any of these events
Basic ODB reader shows no codes
I'm looking for a couple of things - I'm not much of a mechanic so this has to go to a shop for diagnosis and repairs. Before I run it someplace, what sort of diagnostic tools should that shop be equipped with to find out what's going on? Also, given what you know of the problem, am I likely to damage things if I continue towing activities?
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I've seen the gods of the diesel engine do some amazing things on these forums, so after a year of pulling my hair out, I've signed up to try this myself.
This time least year,I bought a 2004.5 6.0L F-250 with 196k on it to haul around the state for my new business. At this time, I knew nothing about diesel engines AT ALL WHATSOEVER, but I've never been afraid to tackle anything and mechanics are not totally foreign to me. Not to mention, I was hoping everything might just go peach-ily for at least a couple years. (for what it's worth, My dad and his family are mostly shade tree mechanics and I'm a power plant operator so mechanical concepts are not totally foreign to me, just never had a diesel before)
To begin, I purchased the truck and everything was fine for about 2 weeks. Then abruptly one morning I noticed a couple of hefty surges on the way to work. Then, on the way home I thought all was well until about half way home, it did it again! as I was pulling up, it galloped once I pulled my foot off the pedal. like ba-DA-DA-DA-da-da-da-da-da-da-DA-DA-DA-DA-DA-da-da-__ and then STALL! Shaking with concern over potentially an awful purchase, I turned the truck back on only to find... that it's fine?!?? No problems for the next two days and then it happened again. then good for a week, then again. then good for 2 weeks, then again. so then I bought auto enginuity and an edge insight to do some troubleshooting. Let that sink in as I explain it's history a bit.
-All but one injector is ford remanufactured the other is stock (was never told which one)
-replaced head gasket with another OEM
-ARP Head Studs
-EGR delete
-HPOP AND STC fitting both replaced
-FICM replaced
-Oil cooler replaced 50k ago
-ICP and pig tail replaced right before my purchase
- Has been through roughly a handful of ICP's since I've had it (I'll explain)
-I've cleaned the EBP tube a lot and updated it to the newer ford sensor with the flare fitting
-I use Rotella T6 5W40 and CAT ELC-1 Coolant.
-Deltas are under 10 at normal driving
-I typically drive under 2200 rpm until warm then like a banshee at operating temps.
Now one year later, its not fixed, but I feel like I'm close.
The DTC's I have seen are ICP sensor circuit intermittent (I think po2884) and Power Blance contribution failure from cylinders #2 #7 and #8 but never at the same time.
Every time I replace the ICP, it will be problem free for about 6 weeks and then it will return full force (surging and galloping when warm about 50% of the time)
During a possession I see the following:
*Cylinder power contribution test yields no issues at idle or when cold. when "possessed", the whole baseline across all cylinders goes up and all cylinders dip and return at random. none singled out
*ICP voltage fluctuating from ~.6v to 1v (.24 @koeo) *Also during a surge*
*ICP PSI dancing up and down ~600 to 900psi (0.0 @koeo and ~500 at normal warm idle) *Also during a surge*
*IPR% bumps up and down ~25% to 30% (15%@ koeo and 23% at normal warm idle) *Also during a surge*
*FICM Voltage anywhere between 47.5v and 49v
*EBP is normally 15-20 psi
*Boost is 1-7 normal and is not affected by "possession"
These numbers have taken a long time to get since it will only be possessed for about 3-10 seconds at a time and then will disappear for days. The stall has only happened about 5 total times in a year. The surging is much more frequent. I usually get a buck or 2 on any given trip that is longer than a half hour but NOT IMMEDIATELY AFTER AN ICP REPLACEMENT.
On one occasion, I noticed that the ICP PSI actually tanked to about 350 right before the IPR went from 25% to 40% right before a posession. I was driving about 35mph through town at the time.
Here's my thoughts...
- Did that one occasion clue me in to an intermittent HPO system leak causing the truck to briefly over-compensate by spiking the IPR?
- Is my ICP pig tail jobby done incorrectly? If there was a short, wouldn't I see the volts drop to 0? I have another one and will replace to rule it out.
- I have yet to test my fuel pressure, but I figured if it was low, I would have lost injectors by now. (I replace filters probably too often but next empty tank, I'm dropping it and checking the screen and strainers)
I should also mention that I have buzz tested the injectors and I can hear each one clear as day, and that for REALLY long trips, it actually returns to normal. In other words, my window of death is between 30min and 2hrs of driving; invincible after.
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So pulling my trailer and 4x4 and the truck dies without any other symptoms. No check engine light all other electrical remains working. This happened 6 times this trip always while pulling a grade but only after the truck has been running for a few hours. Each time, no warning and once the truck has set for 5 to 10 minutes it start up like normal. The longer i let it set the longer I can run before it does it again. ICP is 550ish at idle, 200ish while cranking. Check the FICM before the trip and it was at 47.5 to 48.5v key on engine off and running. STC, stand pipes, dummy plugs, ball cups have all been done.
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I replaced the speed sensor in the differential yesterday, but it didn't make a lick of difference. I've been having intermittent problems with the speedo ever since I bought the truck. When the speedo starts acting up, the truck will sometimes momentarily cut out and buck a couple of times. It was first mentioned this post, post # 35. I had the truck in the shop for a new oil cooler, EGR delete, standpipes, dummy plugs and STC fittings, and when I got it back it ran worse than before as detailed here in post #1. It turned out I had a torn IPR screen.
I replaced that and it cleared up all of the problems I had except for the speedo problem I originally had. The truck actually ran perfectly on the way home from work yesterday, about 20 miles. No speedo problems and no cutting out. This is not unusual, as the problem is only intermittent. I put the new VSS in last night but did not drive it until this morning. This morning, same thing again, speedo swinging crazily. When cruising about 70 it the speedo would suddenly jump up to about 90 and that is when the truck would cut out and buck a couple of time. The VSS is a Dorman product and proudly displays "MADE IN CHINA".
Should I try a better quality sensor? Rock Auto sells an Airtex/Wells sensor that seems to be of good quality, but I can't determine where it was manufactured. The only reason I bought the Dorman is because I could get it next day from Amazon. Should I be looking at another source for the problem? This is very discouraging because this one thing is what is keeping the truck from being mechanically sound, and I'm trying to get it ready to tow an RV this summer.
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1999 Ranger 4.0. I have an issue with my ranger. Sometimes the truck runs awesome.While driving along the truck will miss and sputter and buck, when this happens, I almost can't maintain my speed. Sometimes when this happens if I put the truck in neutral and shut it off and restart it. The problem will temporarily go away. Occasionally it will go away on its own. When it goes away on its own it's like someone flipped a switch and all power is returned and running smooth. When the truck is at idle it depends on the mood of the truck, sometimes it's fine and other times it wants to die. I got to make this truck last awhile longer.
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2005 6.0l - codes are P0261 Cylinder 1 injector circuit low. PO263 Cylinder 1 Contribution/balance and PO270 cylinder 4 circuit low. Ficm still reads 48 plus or minus .5. What is really puzzling is how changing the oil cooler and the EGR cooler would create these problems. Did I screw up the injector harness. Vehicle does not smoke either white or black. Low idle miss and at 55 it chugs once up to speed. Don't want to go Ford if I can avoid them. Whats going on.
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2015 F350 CC LB FX4. I routinely haul 2-4k of cargo in the back of my truck for 375 mile jaunts.... I do this at least once a week. Most I've ever hauled in the bed was 5k and it rode better than it does with 2k in the bed.
The ride is awful and the bounciness and instability driving on uneven roads or corning at speed is starting to really annoy me. Would a set of good airbags cure this problem? Hit a pot hole while corning on the highway around 60-70mph and you better hang on... feels like the back end is going to jump off the ground.
On my last trip down it was so bad I actually pulled off the side of the highway to see if one of my rear springs was broken. And yes... the cargo is evenly distributed under my truck ARE canopy. E rated tires set at 80 PSI rear, 65 PSI front.
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I have a 2006 F250 6.0 Amarillo Edition. 133,000 When I bought the truck it was a theft recovery vehicle where the turbo, injectors, FICM and wiring harness were stolen. The company I bought it from replaced the injectors, wiring harness-new, and a used FICM, and turbo. Also has EGR delete and SCT tuner with basic tunes. I believe the SCT was put on to mask another problem. No dealer would spend that kind of money to sell a truck unless something was wrong. The truck would accelerate some with the tuner but shift the tires so hard it would bark them. I removed the tuner and went back to stock program.
The truck will barely move and takes a long time to accelerate under a load. In park and neutral it is fine. A friend has a ford diagnostic program on his computer and says the readings were all good except EBP was a little high. Removed exhaust and air intake to verify no restrictions. Turbo sounded like the vanes might be sticking so I replaced the turbo and VGT solenoid. Now truck feels like its trying to make more boost but not transferring power to the engine. Have blown the silicone hose off twice now during testing. Checked the EBP sensor and tube and only thing I see is a little carbon buildup inside the sensor. What else to check. I'm new when it comes to diesels.
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While i am pulling a loaded trailer we have been experiencing a random Chug that only last about 1 second we have no lose of power during when it happens. We Recently just replaced all fuel Filters. We have an updated EGR on it with a cold air intake and muffler delete. It has about 180000 miles on it it runs awesome and starts right up just trying to figure what this problem could be..
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I have a 2016 F350 Powerstroke fully deleted for about 3k miles. Truck was running perfectly then out of no where started running like crap and had very minimal power 500-2000rpm. Once 2000rpm hit, turbo spooled up and made power. Very odd. I cleaned out back pressure sensor, map sensor and hoses. No fix. Did a hard reset and the truck ran fine again and had low end power.
Ever since then I started hearing very odd fluttering sounds coming from what I think is the turbo. Also noticed my OEM boost gauge doesn't work. No reading from it.
The flutter only comes on when the truck goes under load for a short period of time and then I let off the throttle. It seems to running fine other then that and maybe a little bit more sluggish then normal. Any things I can check before I put it back to stock and bring it to the dealer?
MODS:
NO Limit EGR Delete
Flo-Pro 5" Straight
S&B Intake
SCT Livewire w/ custom tunes
Also, I had a lot of problems with my live wire software. I have to send it back to SCT to get warranty problems fixed which I'll be sending out Monday. They think my tuner is stuck in demo mode for some off reason.
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I have a 2004 150 with 165,000 miles I sometimes pull a 5 by 8 trailer. when pulling trailer in overdrive and excelorating the engone will cough several times. I took it to a mechanic and he told me that there was nothing he could do that I needed a new engine. I can pull trailer out of overdrive with no problem. don't undrstand why I need new engine....
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Just got this injectors done. Filled the tank up. Drove for 1/4 of a tank. Went to leave out yesterday. Made it out of my subdivision and down the road 3 miles or so. I was going 55 when the truck stalled. I tried to start the ignition it would turn over, but wouldn't catch to stay running. I did this at least 8 times. Friend came with Ether. Tried 3 separate times, truck started going dead. So i was about to give up... Tried it 1 last time, it fired up like a champ!
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I've got a problem with an '05 f-350 with the 6.0. Initially I had a code for the #1 glow plug so I replaced the plug and the code was still there. Next I tested the harness and the rest of the plugs on the same harness and everything checked out fine. This lead me to the Gpcm which I then replaced. The first thing I noticed was when removing the old Gpcm I got a spark when removing the mounting nuts.
When I installed the new Gpcm the truck started fine and no codes came up so I thought all was good till I went to start the truck the next day and the batteries were dead. I thought I possibly left something on so i started charging the batteries but noticed they seemed to have a draw on them. I put my hand on the new Gpcm and it was very warm with the key off so I have the batteries disconnected till I can figure this out.
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My 05 F250 CC 4x4 had a problem where it was wondering to the right.
I had the front end checked out and they said everything was good and within spec but they discovered a bad tire (internal belt separation).
Had two new front tires installed/balanced and the problem seemed to go away for a few months.
Now the problem is back even with the new tires. Could the steering box cause this or is there something else I should be looking at?
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I want test my fuel pressure. What is a good gauge or kit to buy? My truck has lost power towing and is now starting to miss a little. I'm wandering if i my problem is in the tank. Is there a good scan tool that would diagnose things too?
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So my buddy was driving my truck and boat through Amarillo and suddeny had a buck/surge accompanied with black smoke. I left my torque app with him. Its throwing codes: P2287,2285, and P????(fault log got erased and I'm going from memory) concerning #8 cyl. I got there today and we noticed coolant leak on left side. Its small and I cant tell the source, but it is wetting the exhaust manifold on left side. Also now its blowing white, black, grey smoke. At idle its more white/ grey. Under load it mixes a little blck in. I only had time to check the ICP on torque and at idle its bouncing from 0.9 to 1.1. Unplugged ICP ran about the same. Still started and idled fine with white smoke. No oil in ICP or connector.
So I'm no expert but I think ive got a bad icp and something else going on. I didn't pull the egr valve and look so no idea on the cooler ,yup syill have the cooler. Degas has a small amount of white residue directly under the cap but no puking. Degas is just below the max line (on the sticker).
One other note only code originally was the 2287 last night. Now this am there was the other codes ref'd above.
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I need to start ford power stroke, 2005 with vt365 engine, is v8 cylinder, front timing cover was change and since then the truck only cranking and refuse to start, what have done so far, test icp power, ground and ecu 5 reverence voltage was ok,crank engine and monitor icp signal voltage was 1.2 and above at a crank,installed 1500psi gauge in icp hole and monitor oil pressure at engine crank reading 800psi and above, fuel pressure was 45 psi and above, check engine rpm was 175 and above, measure cam sensor ohms was 800 and crank sensor ohms was 400, check cam and crank supply power was 1.87v and ground was ok, replace ipr with brand new, no fuse that cut, scan for code i found(221 internal sensor supply voltage low or below normal range FIM4)FMI4,Engine crank but no smoke from silenser, using fluid and yet engine didn't make any attempt to start was only cranking, what could make the engine not to start and which component has failed that display above code.
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This isn't my truck, but I'm trying to diagnose it for a friend and I haven't seen it. He's scanning it with a high-end Matco scanner so I'm not convinced that the scanner is reading right but here's what I've got:
P0056 (2), P0161, and P0300 (random misfire detected). The first two are "gasser" codes and don't show up in the 6.0 bible code list so I'm wondering if they were added in to some of the later flashes??
The truck has a "new" OEM turbo and won't build over 18 psi of boost but, according to the owner, who is a decent mechanic, it's absolutely clean inside. Looking for about the weird codes it's throwing?
All my years of information on 6.0's was stolen with my laptop last year ....
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2003 F250 crew cab 6.0 ... Where are the main problem areas on the ficm wiring harness truck will start and run great at times and at times it just start and misfire lope jump and buck it has to be a short I've changed the icp and crank / cam sensors some days it runs fine had issue with alternator replaced it.
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Took the beast out for a good road trip to try out the new tires. She is running good now, but has picked up a weird miss which cause the truck to shudder. It does feel and sound just like a miss, I know that it is a diesel but that is only way to describe it.
When driving along with the cruise set at 75, when I hit a hill, the truck will gradually accelerate, and it will miss a beat. Just like you turned it off and right back on very fast. Usually once, twice if the hill is long. If I accelerate harder it will not do it. Most often does it while gradually moving accelerator.
Has new fuel filter ad cam sensor.. Runs great the rest of the time.
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So I have been fighting a rough running, missing problem. My truck started running rough one day on the way home. I got it scanned, it showed injector contribution balance 1&2. Made sense to me that it threw those codes. I replaced 1 and 2 with oem replacements. Got that all done, truck still ran like crap. I changed fuel filter with motorcraft ones and drained the water separator. That didn't work. I am getting it scanned again, so i will have codes shortly.
Also, for a while it would run with absolute no problem. It was intermittent like that. Run bad run bad run bad and then one day run flawlessly. I though it was electrical. Checked all the common places for chaffing, saw nothing. Even did the wiggle test while it was running, no change. But it hasn't been intermittent for a while now.
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