I have a 2005 f250 super duty turbo diesel 6.0 automatic. The problem I'm having is, when I engage the tow/haul button the transmission doesn't down shift unless I feather the pedal. Also the engine will overheat at times. I've replaced the thermostat...
View 6 RepliesI have a 2005 f250 super duty turbo diesel 6.0 automatic. The problem I'm having is, when I engage the tow/haul button the transmission doesn't down shift unless I feather the pedal. Also the engine will overheat at times. I've replaced the thermostat, but that's all so far.
View 2 RepliesI have 2005 f350 will not shift on the fly. With a vacuum pump it will hold vacuum at both hubs but will not lock up. The seals should be good.
View 11 RepliesWe are on vacation pulling the 5th wheel. On the last of the three days driving the transmission starting doing something I have never seen. When running about 60mph and starting up a grade, when I push the pedal and it should shift from OD down, it bucks really bad. It only does it under those conditions and only when towing. It does it when the tow/haul is on and tow haul is off. Also, in the afternoons on the last two da,ys the A/C has started to turn off. The fan still runs but the cooling cycles off. After a while it comes back and is ice cold but then cycles off again. It only seems to do this when the engine fan is running to cool off the engine under load. I have it scheduled at the local dealer for a transmission service and A/C check....
View 12 RepliesI am using my son's truck this week, 2012 F250, 120,000 miles or so. I left it running in the drive while I got something from inside the house. Guess it was idling approximately 10 minutes. When I put it in reverse the transmission would not shift and the truck didn't move. I killed it, re-cranked it and it went in reverse.
As I was driving down the road the transmission would change gears up and down for no reason. I stopped the truck, and put it in park. I would put it in drive and the transmission sounded like it wanted to slip. I put it back in park and the transmission would not engage. I then killed the truck, re-cranked it, and it drove fine for awhile and started doing it again,
I kill the truck, re-crank it, and we go down the road.
Well I've been towing for almost 150,000 miles with a 2012 6.7 Lariat 4 wheel drive. Things have been going pretty well with the truck. I noticed some sluggish and indecisive type shifts early on but now I'm worried. I depend on this truck for pulling a horse trailer all over the country and Canada. Just recently I've been getting a hard shift or a thump or a clunk when shifting up or down in to second gear. I'm at about 152,000 miles and did a hot flush with LV ATF at about 148,000 miles. Should I worry or keep running?
I have a 97' PSD I'm thinking of giving a nice paint job and a flat bed but am reluctant to do so due to financial concerns and the fact that some folks may not want to see me pull up in an old truck no matter how nice it looks. My tranny temps have been stating under 200F and I really keep an eye on the temps when running up and down the hills while towing. The trailer is a 35' Gooseneck with a max GVRW or 14,000 pounds. Should I wait for the tranny to grenade and then drop in a built tranny and if so who's building these tranny's stronger than stock? Long time no see but this site has always been my go to for all my Ford truck questions, upgrades, etc.
Any input on replacing the entire transmission valve body or just individual shift solenoids? My truck has begun experiencing a harsh shift from 1st to 2nd under light acceleration accompanied by occasional shift flare from 2nd to 3rd and 5th to 6th. I have located parts to do either job. It looks straight forward from just disconnecting the harness. I also understand there are different bands associated with the solenoids. Is there a requirement to have new transmission programming to accompany swapping these components?
View 2 RepliesI have an 05 Excursion and I drove and parked it, no problem. Came back out and the trouble began. I looked on this site (always do for the best guidance and info) and replaced the trans position sensor, put tunes back to stock. Since then, I have had intermittent issues with the truck only starting with the code reader plugged in, idle jump to 750 rpm, and the tow/haul light flash and won't shift into OD. It also seems at full stops it is not in the low gear. I am driving it to the "stealership" today to have the computer flashed. Additionally, the blinkers won't flash, they only illuminate. All this started at once. Where all the ground straps/wires are??
View 6 RepliesOkay so I just peaked 100k and (of course) my 6.0 has an issue. I was driving along when suddenly my Transmission Temp gauge dropped to nothing, the tow haul began flashing and my check engine light came on. My transmission hard shifted and wouldn't shift up from 3rd. I let the truck sit for a few days, no leaking was observed and no blown lines. I added 4qts of tranny fluid and went to take it for a spin. The truck did fine for about 20 minutes and the same issue occurred. I parked it and checked the dip stick and it was full. What could the issue be.
View 5 RepliesI have been having an issue with my 4-5 gear shift under hard acceleration and know that a rebuild is due soon but I was wondering if any high performance kit available with all the clutches and friction discs needed to rebuild.
View 6 RepliesIs there one thing that when broken makes both the steering and brakes lose all power? Does the power steering and hydroboost share a pressure source?
My brake pedal is dead and I get no steering boost, but the master cylinder and PSP are full of fluid. Do I replace both, or replace one first to see if that fixes both? Or could it just be a hose leaking? Not sure how to diagnose this one.
Well, last night I took my F-350 up a wheeling trail. I'd been up quite a few times in my old Rover, so I knew I could go a ways in without damage. Just uphill, muddy, and ruts / rock steps.
One thing I notice is that when you engage low range in the diesel, the transmission starts in 2nd gear. My previous gas Super Duties always started in 1st. I'm assuming this is to protect the transfer case from torque overload. Also, the throttle response seems to change when low is engaged (the pedal becomes less responsive, which is nice).
I've had the gas Super Duties off road before, and all of mine have had the locking rear diff. The diesel lugged along perfectly. My biggest fear was crunching the DPF / SCR / DOC canister on a rock step. In that respect, I'd rather wheel a gas. The manual shift function makes a lot of sense in low range - you can force a start in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd. And prevent meaningless up / down shifts since the grade can change quickly.
These trucks' biggest hindrance is their size. However, if you have the trail room, they are actually excellent off road. Many people look at a Super Duty and see a vehicle good only for pulling or hauling. Not so, these trucks are as good as a Jeep off road, again with trail room being the only concern. The locking rear diff was never really needed, but I engaged and disengaged a few times to keep the mechanism free. I really love this feature.
One thing that happens frequently for me in north-east wheeling is water crossings. Could be a simple brook but mostly it is mud holes encountered on tight trails. In some cases these are only a foot or so deep; in other cases they are 4 feet deep. Ford states to "try" to keep the water below the level of the hubs, which amounts to about 15". Aside from possible front axle contamination, my biggest concern would be the electronics on the diesel which are mounted to the frame or floor pan (transmission module, NOx module, etc.) The gas Super Duties don't have these concerns. In the old days, as long as a diesel had air, the engine would run under water. This engine requires electronic control of many things, including the injectors...so it won't. There are also some axle / transmission breathers which run about floor pan high to be concerned about, but these can be easily extended.
Maybe it's due to the twisty frame which GM loves to insult Ford about, but these trucks have excellent wheel articulation. I'd be surprised if a coil sprung power wagon flexed more, at least in the rear. I'm impressed.
Finally, the traction control. I experimented a bit on a slippery rock step. This was the only step which required the rear locker - sort of. The front wheels climbed the step, but the back flexed to the point of one rear wheel basically almost off the ground and severely unloaded. With 4x4 Low engaged, and traction control "off" as much as Ford will allow, the truck could not pull itself up. Turning traction control on allowed the truck to very nearly pull itself up. A little more throttle / finesse probably would have gotten the truck over, but lots of ETC operation glazes the brakes and spews brake dust everywhere. Being able to start in a higher gear manually really adjusts the torque control. Locking the rear end and the loaded wheel bit right in and she went up and over.
When doing some off-road driving, the "off-road" screen for those of you with the LCD message center is kind of fun and informative to watch. It's nice to see how far your wheels are turned left or right when spinning in ruts or what crazy angle your truck is on. Howie Long could probably document the exact up / down / left / right slope angle a Super Duty needs to be on in order for the tailgate not to open. I never had an reason to open the tailgate while in these crazy angles, of course.
Overall, very impressed. It's not as good as my old Range Rover, but I would say more talented off road than ALL other Ford vehicles except the Raptor.
Recently I have been experiencing dead pedal every now and again, but it eventually comes back. Its happened on the interstate a couple of times and that can get pretty dangerous. Now I am having issues with a no start condition out of no where. It will eventually crank but it churns and churns for a VERY long time, like 15- 30 mins before it will fire again. This has happened twice now. Here are the codes I pulled from Torque:
P0263
P0281
P0299
P0528
Where this is all coming from? I thought at first bad TPS on the adjustable pedals, but now with the no start condition, could it be fuel pump related? Yesterday I was at the dump and it was idling, then got real erratic and shut down. Then wouldn't start for 20 minutes.
When the truck shifts into 5th gear i instantly feel a constant vibration and noise until it shifts to 6th gear. This happens nearly every time while driving at 40mph. Rpm range 1200 - 2000. I bought the truck new on June 30th and noticed the problem on my way to work on Monday July 2nd. Took it to the dealer on July 5th and the tech said it was the torque converter slipping. I drove it home because they didn't have time to work on it. Took it back on July 12th and the dealer has had it since (currently 30 days) They originally told me it was not the engine or transmission and it was an exhaust problem. Last week they said it was the motor mounts and said they would be done.
View 14 RepliesOk so I just put an egr delete and a new oil cooler in the truck. Everything went pretty well but when I was going for a test drive I'm not building any boost. I can here the turbo whistle like always but there no power and none of my gauges register boost. Also, the transmission is shifting funny I don't know how else to explain it but just not right. Now I don't see/smell any exhaust leaks and can't hear anything too wierd in that department. I checked the intake and the intercooler tubes I think their called and all good there. However, I did break my map sensor post off my intake during the install . So my map tube was just open to the atmosphere I didn't plug it or anything. Could that be the cause of my woes? Is there any thing I can do to alleviate the issues I'm having with the map? Can I just plug it until I fix it? And is there anything else to check on my turbo?
View 14 RepliesSituation is I have 2016 F350 that when cold, seems to have shift problems between 5th and 6th gear, where the engine revs between the gear shift under light acceleration. Once warmed up, doesn't seem to do it, 4th to 5th might be a little slow or maybe just my imagination.
View 14 RepliesSo we have a van with the 6.0. It has a little over 100,000 miles. It has started to take longer to up shift. The dealer ( I know. but I know my service guy and he has done well in the past ) says we need to do injectors and fuel regulator plus a host of small parts to do the job. about 8 grand or so of work. Everything on the trans checks out and is supposed to be in perfect order. Truck goes well once up to speed but its getting the is the problem. So its parked so we don,t melt an injector.
View 3 RepliesI was sitting at a light and when it turned green I hit the gas pedal and had no response engine was idling perfect and a wrench light came on , I then shut off the truck restarted it and light was off hit the gas it came back on and it was intermittent with taking so I replaced the pedal and it is still doing it...
View 7 RepliesI am having an odd issue that i don't want to turn into a bigger one.
When I am sitting at a stop at idle and have the brake pressed i hear a humming sound and the pedal vibrates but when I am moving an press the brake it doesn't do it. Ive checked the pads all around they're fine brake fluid is fine it didn't start doing this till a few days ago.
I am just trying to figure this out before i end up going down the road one day and go to stop and have nothing there.
On my way into work this morning I had one of those everybody needs to stop NOW moments. Hit the brakes hard, really hard with wheels chirping and all, after i got mostly slowed down the pedal gave way and went to the floor. I let up and pushed again and they were fine, but at that point I didn't need to hit them that hard again. The rest of the way in they worked fine braking normally, and before hand as well.
I'm thinking the master cylinder is going bad. Any tips on diagnosing for sure?
A few months ago I couldn't get the shift lever out of park without trying multiple times. Then it was okay for about 5 months now it is back and worse. It is not bound up because of parking on a hill or anything like that and I press very hard on the brake pedal. It take s multiple times to get it out of park trying turning the key on and off and so on. The truck only has 86,000 miles on it and the transmission has always worked perfectly.
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