Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2005 - Sooty Coolant - Oil Cooler Or Head Gaskets?
Feb 20, 2016
Just bought a 2005 F250 PSD, got a smoking deal on it. It has 321k miles and has been very well taken care of however I do believe that it either needs a new oil cooler or has bad head gaskets. Pictured below you will see what the coolant looked like when I let the first batch lose. It does not seem foamy, which is interesting to me, however there is NO EGR to cause this soot.
About the truck:
- It was bulletproofed at 50k miles (EGR delete, ARP head studs, etc).
- There is no puking of coolant (drove it 100 miles from where I purchased it and nothing)
- When the truck is started you have to let it warm up for about 10 minutes,otherwise it seems to not have full power. (was going to reflash the ECU in hopes this repaired that problem).
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If you have a blown head gasket on a 6.0, after the gaskets were removed would you be able to tell where the gasket failed?
Since the gaskets are metal or multilayer metal in some cases would you be unable to tell where the gasket failed or would it always be visible?
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I just had headgaskets (oem) studs, egr delete,oil cooler done on my 06 plus water pump cause the gasket blew. I have a sct livewire hooked up monitoring everything and tonight i noticed that the eot and ect's were way off. fully warmed up and rolling 65 Anywhere from 40*-50* out it was eot-156 and ect-172. Degas bottle was at the normal level.
I am also having issues with the fuel gauge. Every now and then the gauge will go to E and the miles to E will display ---. Turn the truck off and back on it works again. I am half assuming its the plug on the sending unit or the sending unit itself.
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I just pulled the cab and did headgaskets, studs. I put everything back together and when I turn the key, nothing, no lights, zero.
I've checked all connections and batteries are good, checked all fuses, where to start with this?
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So I am just wrapping up getting my head gaskets done for the second time. Last time was 7 yrs ago. Truck now has 90K mi on it and I have had nothing but Matt's tunes on it since the head gaskets were done originally. I have only towed once and I put the 8K tow tune on for that trip.
ARP studs were used but heads were not decked then. OEM gaskets, done by Ford.
So a head gasket failures with ARP studs and doing everything else the FTE way?
New heads are decked and o-ringed. Planning to go a little more gentle with the tuning, but don't really want to. Driving it stock just sucks.
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Ran fine, did the head gaskets ,egr delete, oil cooler and 12mm dummy plugs. Primed the fuel system, oil pressure looks good on the guage , spins fine but doesn't seem to be making any attempt at starting . Gave it a shot of quick start and it never so much as kicked. Everything looks good, nothing leaking and nothing obvious. To top it off we are without power after Hurricane Mathew left his mark.
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I have a 2006 6.0 that i did head gaskets on about a year ago. While I was in there I put some new pistons a valves in as well. I finished doing the job and it started and ran great just smoking a little bit. Test drove it a couple of times and still seemed great but still smoking. (white smoke) about a week went by with me driving the truck then one day driving to work I parked it then all of a sudden the truck shut off like some one hit the key and wouldn't restart after that. Either doesn't work i put a ficm in it before the head gaskets went out. new HPOP before head gaskets. I get oil pressure in the dash but it takes a long time to build up. cranks like a dream but doesn't even try to fire.
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Truck has never been flushed. Would you try and back flush through oil cooler or just do a regular flush according to the procedure in the tech folder?
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I'm getting pretty comfortable with these forums now. Not sure if this is in the right section, but even if it was, I'm not sure how to find the right one. I recently purchased Bullet Proof Diesel's Air-to-Oil oil cooler along with the BPD oil filtration. I've already drained the oil, but do I need to drain the coolant as well? I have read of people doing a complete flush before even installing a new oil cooler (OEM oil cooler). That way once it is installed, it doesn't have all the grit and sand pumping through it right off the bat. But does it matter with BPD's system? Should I go ahead and drain the coolant completely before beginning this job?
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I installed a BPD EGR cooler about 4 years ago just as a preventative measure (along with an oil cooler) in my '06 F-250 6.0. About 6 months ago some coolant was found to be coming down the rear of the engine and onto the garage floor but only in the mornings after cooling down and even then not every morning.
A couple weeks ago I did a coolant flush and put the red ELC coolant in and now I can see better where the coolant is coming from. It appears to be coming out from the O-ring between the cooler and the intake manifold. I did check the torque on the stud and bolt and they are tight.
Is there a way the drop the cooler enough to install a new O-ring with out going through the whole process of removing the intake manifold and everything that is associated with that? The thought is daunting...
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I just had my oil cooler and EGR cooler replaced, and I'm now consider doing a coolant flush with Restore/Restore+ to ensure the coolant system is clean. I know this might be backwards and perhaps should have done the flush first, but schedule and such did not allow. I do have a coolant filter.
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06 250 w 65k and it is sluggish on take off, and puffs black smoke most of the time. other than that it runs good.
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My buddy install a BPD air/oil oil cooler in his 2003 F250 last week and now there is coolant pouring out the tail pipe. I haven't seen it but he tells me there is quite a bit coming out. It wasn't doing this before we installed the BPD oil cooler. Normally I would say bad EGR cooler but his EGR is deleted. This is the 3rd BPD cooler I've put in and this is the first time I've had any issues after the install. The install went smooth other than we broke the radiator and had to install a new one. I feel bad cause I'm hoping it wasn't something I caused but I just can't think of anything I did during this install that would cause coolant to be getting into the exhaust. He just had it towed to the local Ford dealership.
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I have a 2005 F250 with 6.0 and almost 175,000. On vacation right now and noticed when I came out of a store that there was a puddle of water under the passengers side. Chalked it up to AC defrost. The second time I was not running AC and puddle again.
Felt and smelt of it...antifreeze. Just put in all new Zerex G05 and a new degas tank because when working on it I noticed a pin hole in the base before we left. I replaced the EGR cooler and hose from Sinister about 3 plus years ago.
Would the EGR cooler hose be leaking? I've noticed that white residue on top of the intake around the where the hose is. What would cause this, Heat, wear and tare....my luck ?
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Early 04 but 06 motor, Coolant filter, BPD EGR cooler, Head studs. I did use the search tool, overloaded with EGR cooler leaks and head gasket failure in the results.
Noticed ECT Spiking 217 (EOT 187)as went to post office,10 min run time from a cold start. Checked Degas a bit low, did my business and went home. Got home ECT 223 EOT(221) zero coolant in Degas and notice this mess. as well as puddling up under radiator.
I left the truck running and added some water to the degas hoping I could spot the leak, no love.
On our trucks do we have a weep hole for the water pump? I didn't notice any water or stains around it or the pulley. Nothing around the hoses either... yet.
Once it cools I am going to pull the fan shroud and look for a possible hole in radiator. Are there any other suspect areas?
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I LOVE my Super Duty and with only 15k on it (have a company truck) plan on keeping it for a long time. I've had an EGR Delete and new Oil Cooler along with some misc things done to the engine and turbo, about 6g's worth. Now my mechanic at NCB is telling me that the reason I'm loosing coolant is that my head gaskets are leaking. I'm looking at another 5-7 grand which is a no go for me. I'm thinking of doing the work myself, especially since I've seen where i don't have to remove the body to do it.
Okay, here is the question, I've been having a hard time finding a comprehensive list of the parts I should be getting to do the job. Looking for a list or link on what I need to do it correctly and anything I might want to do while my engine is apart so I don't have to do this again?
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When the engine is working hard and the head (s) unseat, where does the coolant go, in the oil, to the atmosphere or both?
There are times when I am pulling heavy ( 18 to 20K+) pulling up a hill from a stop, and I can hear the engine working hard, then I later check the coolant level and it has drop.
Where did it go?
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I have a 04 that has 153k on it. 4" cat back exhaust with no cat. SCT tuner running a custom street tune. New FMIC with the extra tune on it. Head gaskets where done at 90k along with ARP studs. EGR cooler, The oil cooler was cleaned, New coolant tank. 1-new head and The cooling system was flushed at 90K. All done by the dealer along with some other items. Installed a bypass coolant filter at least 60k miles ago.
I have been having a no heat issue sometimes at idle this past winter and a mystery loss of coolant. I replaced the cap with a OEM one. I did a vacuum test on the coolant it held at 25 inches for well over a 1/2 hour. Pulled the egr valve it looked somewhat like tar inside not 100% dry. At startup it sometimes blows some white smoke and other times it's black smoke. I've had the scan gauge on for the last week to check my deltas.
Running 65mph the deltas stayed around 10 degrees diff.
Running 70mph the deltas stayed around 14-16 degrees diff.
Yesterday just running around rural roads 55mph and under the deltas stayed around 10 degrees diff.
I have not found a lower pressure gauge to do a coolant pressure test.
It does look as though it has burped the cap. Because of the deltas I'm thinking a plugged oil cooler my be the problem.
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I have a 1995 aero with 4 wheel drive and a 4 liter. Lent it out and the engine was run without coolant. Pretty sure the head gaskets are blown. I found a replacement 4 liter from a 92 explorer and wondered if it would swap in. Will the bolt pattern match, computer, mounts,etc?
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I have a 2002 Chevy Impala, 3.4 engine. Mileage is at about 235k. About a month ago I had to replace the radiator because the car was overheating. Not even a week later, the low coolant light was on (even after I filled the reservoir) and the car was once again getting really close to overheating. I took it back to the mechanic who replaced the radiator. He checked and said the head gaskets were bad. He showed me where they were cracked/torn and showed me that I had coolant mixing with my oil. I haven't had the money to fix it, so since then the car has been sitting in my garage.
I have drove it maybe 5-8 times though (to the grocery store down the street, etc.) Should I even invest anymore into this car, considering the age, mileage and problems (fyi, the car was in an accident so there's some body damage to the hood, front fender, the a/c isn't working)? Would replacing the gaskets or buying a used engine be a smart move? Or is it better to purchase another car? I only have about 3k to go towards another car, so I'm kind of afraid I'll get another one and it will have the same (or worse) problems.
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2005 PSD 6.0L Excursion ... I suspect that have a fuel leak at the fuel line fittings near the driver side cylinder head. (I believe that it is fuel, since it is so clear, I guess I should collect a few drops and see if it burns vs. coolant.)
It appears to be at the junction of the fuel lines. This is the point where the fluid drops off the tubing and falls down. The clip that holds the two tubes together at the joint is very dirty, the one below them is clean. The tag on the line that is at the joint leaking is part number 3c34-9j338-ag. Is there a o-ring in side the joint? Do I need to replace both hoses of the joint? I can't find any posting of a history of this fuel line leaking.
Or... is it that the joint never fail, and the leak is up tube? I can't see any where it is coming out when viewing it from the top.
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