Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2005 - Poor Fuel Mileage?
Feb 15, 2011
I just bought my first diesel truck back in November. It's a 2005 F-250 with the 6.0L and the 5 spd torq-shift automatic tranny. Last weekend I drove the truck to South Carolina, about a 600 mile round trip from where I live. On the trip the truck only got 13 mpg! I wasn't towing a trailer and the truck was empty except for me and my suitcase. It's not loaded up with mods or anything, it's completely stock power wise.
I'm extremely disappointing, especially since a friend of mine has a 2006 F-250 identical to mine and he gets up to 21 mpg on his. What can be done to improve my mileage? I'm not a lead-footed driver, and the trip was done with almost all interstate and highway driving, very little driving on back roads or stop and go. If this is the best the truck will get, I'm going to sell it and buy a F-150!
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I have read many different threads regarding the TPS sensor on the pedal and EBPV deletes on the E99 7.3L Powerstrokes. I am trying to troubleshoot some issues with my E99 7.3L. Usually on cool mornings and after not being started for awhile the truck will seem to be stuck in an Idle. This is an intermittent problem that doesn't always happen.
I cleaned the connections to the Tps and the IVS sensor and put them back in. No luck. On another note I am also seeing a reduction in fuel mileage and power like the truck is being restricted. I don't know if these symptoms are related or possibly their own issues. I am troubleshooting and possibly thinking it is the EBPV system that isn't working correctly. Considering doing an EBPV delete with a NON-EBPV Pedestal and Flange.
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My7.3 is idling rough till I pull the fuse for the fuel pump them it will smoothen out I ran a by pass switch to us my truck but the fuel mileage is bad why
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A month ago I changed engine oil, oil filter and both fuel filters. All replacement filters are Motorcraft and my mileage is off a solid 2 mpg after the fuel filter replacement.
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I recently bought a 1983 Ford Ranger Diesel pickup truck (2.2L Mazda engine, manual transmission). The dealer said to expect a little above 30 mpg on fuel mileage but the two fill-ups I've done show an average fuel mileage of 22 mpg. About half of these are highway miles.
I thought diesels are supposed to have good mileage. Is this typical for my year and model truck? Is there any way to increase the mileage? I just replaced the air and fuel filters and also changed the oil and oil filters.
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2005 6.0L F250 Lariat. I picked up a couple weeks ago. The message center in the gauge cluster will only show my mileage (kilometres) and engine hours but nothing else.
Also the three buttons/controls to the right of the steering column don't do anything. I checked the wiring behind the dash and it's all plugged in... The other problem is the SRS light will flash on and off while driving.
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I would like the hear what others have to say about the problems I'm having with my 2006 F-350 sd xlt 6.0 with 113,000 miles on it. It's being used as a tool truck mostly going from a shop on the property to close by buildings on the same property. In other words very short distances. Used occasionally to take a dump trailer to a close by dumping ground.
1. White smoke from exhaust. I've read this is most likely an ERG cooler that needs replacing. Any other possible causes? If I end up having to replace the cooler is there a stock cooler that is reliable or should I get the one by bullet proof?
2. Diesel is dripping from the muffler weep hole. Last full tank lasted only 60 miles. Could this be the oil cooler? Anything else? If so is the Ford replacement cooler OK or should I go with an upgraded cooler?
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My wife and I just purchased a 2012 SEL front-wheel drive. Our first tank (mixed use) was 19 MPG. We took the vehicle on a roadtrip this weekend that was 95% highway driving on mostly flat Texas roads using cruise control as much as possible. Our best tank was 23.3 which was achieved driving 70-75 MPH on I-20. Is this consistent with what others are seeing? My mileage figures are at the link below. Note, all values are calculated by me, not the MFD that reads about 1 MPG high.
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My friend has a F250. He was getting terrible mileage and the mechanic he took it to replaced the intake gaskets. After that the mileage went to 12 and he was happy. Now its down to 6-8, just highway. It seems to me the throttle response is terrible compared to my dad's 01 V10. And it sounds terrible. Exhaust manifolds aren't leaking that I see.
I've got AE and have hooked it up, but I'm really not very familiar with these trucks. I don't get any codes that would relate to anything. Had one trans sensor code but that was about it. Key on engine running test didn't say anything.
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05 f350 with sct tuner (studded and deleted) with blue spring mod. And for the record I took the truck back to stock tune
Having an issue where after a long hard run, or a run up a hill, the truck starts running rough and acting like its not getting fuel. Sometimes it runs so bad it dies. Wait a few seconds, start her up and it runs fine. (until I do a hard pull again) I can hear a intermittent slight miss at idle as well at times. Tank is 3/4 full of fuel. No codes, no CEL. Also there is no smoke when this happens. just took her for a run and it happened, brought it back and shut it off, started it back up and idles fine.
Oil pressure seems good, can't remember exact numbers but it was in the 2000's I think even while it was dying. FICM voltage holds steady at 48 volts.
I changed the fuel pump and filter out to a different one. (a used one that was working when removed from a different truck) no change. I did not change the upper filter but it doesn't look bad.
I imagine a fuel pressure test would be in order but I do not have the equipment right now to do it. Am I right thinking its a fuel issue?
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I own a 2000 Jetta VR6 5 speed. Car has over 300,xxxkm on it, with documented maintenance including chains within the past 12k. Car has intake, 2.5" resonated exhaust, stock software.
I have recently noticed that the car has a cold start issue. Its winter here in Canada, so in the morning when i go to start the car and let it warm up for a couple minutes, the idle is choppy at first and then evens out at around 900-1k rpm. If i try to blip the throttle, or even hold it (half way or WOT) the car just wants to bog out, EXTREMELY rough idle. It will eventually, after about 2 mins of idling, go away and i can drive.
I have absolutely no issue with allowing the car to idle for a few mins to warm up, but i know for a fact that whether a car is cold or not, it should be able to rev freely.
I also have horrible fuel milage. I use 91 octane, and average about 250-300km per tank. 70% city 30% hwy driving.
The following parts have been replaced in the past 1200 to try and resolve the issue
OE Mass air flow sensor
OE spark plugs
BREMI wires
OE Bosch front O2 sensor
I have scanned the car several times, which led me to change the parts i did. Only had a CEL once and it was for the front O2 sensor which i just replaced. Any other codes were for random multiple and a cat efficiency fault. Again those were fault found off a GFF test done at VW, they were not enough to trigger a CEL, but i still changed the parts.
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2005 F250 Superduty Crewcab 4x4 6.0L diesel/auto
Wife drove the truck before me and bunched the floor mat under the pedals. I didn't notice the mat issue when I drove the truck today. I accelerated fully after doing a left turn onto a busy highway. The motor spun up hard with the accelerator floored but because of the mats, the pedal stuck all the way down. I was approaching stopped traffic while under full acceleration and I shut the engine off and pulled over to the shoulder all while braking hard ( it was a hell of a ride!). I freed the pedal and restarted the engine.
Now, despite a bit less than 1/2 tank of fuel (I have the 38 gal tank), the dash readout was showing "Low Fuel", the gas gauge was below E and the engine was running like it was running out of fuel. I turned the engine off again and left it off for 1/2 hour before restarting it but the gauge and engine still behaved the same. As I drove to the nearest diesel station, the engine was not running "right". Of course the station I pulled into had 1 diesel pump and the pump was broken.
Because I thought I might actually be out of fuel, an understanding stranger took me to the store to buy some gas cans and then to another station to get 6 gallons of fuel. I got back to the truck and added the 6 gallons of fuel. When I turned the key on, the fuel gauge immediately came up to 1/2 tank. I then drove to that other station and added another 15 gallons of fuel to fill it. This confirmed that I had about 18 gallons of fuel in truck when the "Low fuel" warning occurred.
So, what the heck was going on with the fuel gauge? I am sure the "Low Fuel" warning is tied directly to the gauge but why was the gauge reading low? Is it possible that the "Key-off" while under full acceleration followed by hard braking had confused the ECU? I am just trying to figure out if I have a fuel sender problem or a confused computer that corrected itself. Until this incident, the fuel gauge has never been a problem but the wife messing up the mats has been an issue!
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I just recently got my truck back, My father and I switched vehicles due to need and distance's being driven. 2005 F350 6.0, 164,000 miles
I couldn't wait to drive it again, I spent hours detailing and cleaning. Well I go to start and noticed it struggled to start, and didnt seem to be idling right. I looked under the hood and it was leaking fuel from the Regulator. I left it parked and never drove it since he last did. I read around on these forums and I bought the blue spring upgrade kit.
Now I notice it shakes at idle a lot more than it used to, pretty bad at times. Then upon driving it shakes even worse upon acceleration attempts, and has very poor throttle response. I have to put it nearly to the floor and even then the acceleration is nothing like it used to be. Most of my trip was highway at 60mph, and anytime it would start climbing a hill it would shake pretty bad with the acceleration. When i let off the gas to slow down before braking it stopped the shaking.
So I read around on here and I went back and used the factory bowl and valve for the regulator, still had the issue. Next I went back and replaced the blue spring with the original, still have the issue.
I just checked the FICM and it is reading between 48-49 during key on, cycle, and cranking.
Batteries are great
Alternator only reads 13.6 at 2k rpm idle, but have not had charging issues.
My father says he never noticed anything wrong with it other than it occasionally missing out. But I don't see how changing the fuel pressure regulator would have caused this. Especially since I tried every combination of oem and aftermarket parts, ensuring that all the connections and parts were installed correctly.
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2005 f350 6.0. I was driving my truck and it seemed like someone had shut the fuel off to truck ! i had it towed to the house and was doing research and watch a video on checking the ficm with a volt meter..when i touch the positive post from meter the ficm started smoking and sizzzling...but back tothe truck when i try to start it i have no pre warm up sounds coming from the truck and the truck just turns over strong ..no start...i was going to replace the ficm but didnt want to spend the money to fry another if that is not my problem..also the # 5 fuse under the hood keeps blowing.
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I have a 2005 f250 6.0 diesel. I have changed the 2 fuel filters, fuel pump, sending unit (was broke off in tank )and installed the blue spring fuel pressure regulator kit. My truck will run for a few minutes loose fuel and kill. Could this be a sensor or computer problem
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The backlight for my fuel level and oil pressure dash gauges are out. Would that require a simple bulb replacement or if there is something more difficult to replace, i.e. entire panel? The red needles illuminate, it's just the gauges themselves that are dark. The truck is my 05 Super Duty in the siggy.
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For the past two years I've noticed a decrease in fuel economy and recently noticed that the truck did not "feel" as if it had the same power especially when towing. Checking all the usual suspects with the engine turned up nothing and the transmission wasn't showing any signs of problems other than an occasional delay going into reverse. But it had been doing that for years and so I just ignored it.
Recently the torque converter started acting up and had some other occasional shifting delays and so decided to put the vehicle in the shop. The electronics all checked out and so a HD rebuild kit was ordered. The truck was finished this morning. Just barely pressing the accelerator makes the vehicle instantly start forward with noticeable zip. Plenty of power at all speeds, the engine now feels like new.
I suspect the main culprit was the torque converter. It wasn't enough to notice in excessive rpms nor heat (at least according to the instrument gauge) but the loss is noticeable in hindsight when compared to the repaired system. Over the next few weeks I'll get some mileage numbers and will know for sure whether I've found the sole cause of my power problems but I am sure that I've made a fairly large step in solving them.
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I have a 04 f350 6.0 with about 195xxx miles on it. The other day my truck started acting up. It starts and idles without a problem and drives fine till the engine gets to operating temp once there I cannot accelerate quickly like getting onto the highway to get up to speed it just the motor just goes quiet and won't accelerate. It usually does this a little after 2000 rpm. I can let off the throttle and slowly get to speed as long as I don't go past 2000 rpm. No check engine light was not on scanned it and got p0611 for the ficm. I tested the ficm and it read 48v with key on. While truck was running I got 46.xx v then Started to climb to almost 48v. The truck was warm but not at operating temp where the problems starts(didn't have time to let it warm up all the way) could these symptoms be the ficm still? What else should I test?
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So i just finished putting in new high pressure oil rail cup seals in and a new #2 injector. Truck was running great for about 5 miles and then just shut off. When I had it towed home I plugged in the super chips tuner "no tunes installed" and I have a p0460, p0463, p2290, p2291. I also have a #7 glow plug circuit failure Ive been a little neglectful in getting done.
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I've got a leak that appears to be coming from the secondary fuel filter housing (the one in the engine compartment)... It's not coming from the filter, but from the side, where there are 4 allen bolts that attach a fitting to the side of the housing...Can I change out the gasket for that piece? I've already tightened the bolts, but the leak persists.
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2005 PSD 6.0L Excursion ... I suspect that have a fuel leak at the fuel line fittings near the driver side cylinder head. (I believe that it is fuel, since it is so clear, I guess I should collect a few drops and see if it burns vs. coolant.)
It appears to be at the junction of the fuel lines. This is the point where the fluid drops off the tubing and falls down. The clip that holds the two tubes together at the joint is very dirty, the one below them is clean. The tag on the line that is at the joint leaking is part number 3c34-9j338-ag. Is there a o-ring in side the joint? Do I need to replace both hoses of the joint? I can't find any posting of a history of this fuel line leaking.
Or... is it that the joint never fail, and the leak is up tube? I can't see any where it is coming out when viewing it from the top.
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