Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2005 - P012F Comes On After 50 Miles?
Apr 29, 2015
2005 F350 6.0L, I was towing my toy hauler when the wrench came on the code was P012F. The dealer has put 3 new oil coolers in and claims to have flushed the cooling system out throughty. After that I installed an external coolant filter, an external oil cooler, EGR delete and flushed the cooling system and a turbo back 4 inch exhaust.
I can only drive for around 50 miles then the P012F comes back. What to do except blow it up??????.
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Got my first CEL at just under 40K miles. P4023, Redundant temp sensor range, so looks like I get a new DEF tank sensor. Of course they are on national back-order still. One would have thought that Ford would finally have these in stock but no.....
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I have a 2012 F250 6.7L with about 62,000 miles on it. I purchased this truck new in October 2013. I had my first check engine light last Friday. I scanned it and it was a P20BD (Reductant Heater "B" Control Circuit/Open) is what I found when I searched for it. I had the truck in on Tuesday to the dealer. They are telling me it is the Reductant Pressure Line and the repair will be $690. They didn't have the part so I picked up my truck and have an appointment scheduled for Monday.
Since picking the truck the check engine light hasn't returned. I find this odd and it makes me wonder if they are correct or not in their diagnostics.
The other question I have is isn't the DEF system part of the emissions system? If so why isn't it covered under the emissions system warranty until 80,000 miles or 5 years?
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Well so far I have had this truck for 5 years and I'm going for the third set of tires. So far I have run Nitto terra grapplers, and currently BFG at ko's. Both sets wore out around the 20,000-mile mark, they both wore very evenly, rotated every 6,000 miles, properly inflated, check the lineup at 2 different reputable shops.is it something about the 275-65-20s that make them wear faster? I really don't need an at tire as I don't go off road that much so I'm thinking of a good all season radial.
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Fan Clutch went out today 47,000 miles.
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I have a 2007 F350 6.0 Diesel. Truck starts and runs great for about 10 miles and then loses power and slows down til it dies, it does this without any kind of warning and does not rattle or anything. If i let it sit for about 15 min it will start right up and drive fine for another 10 miles or so and do the same thing.
It did the same thing in December but would not restart at all and the ficm was the cause at that time so i went ahead and replaced the ficm just to eliminate it. I also replaced the fuel pump and the ipr and icp valves are good. The only engine code has to do with the fuel level sensor and that has been on for a year. The egr was recently replaced, the hpop is putting out the psi that it is supposed to and there are not any internal air leaks.
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, 211,000 miles and the third radiator that was put in this truck is leaking!! Has there been a recall This is not right. I haven't even had the truck five years and this will be over 5 grand in radiators. Is a person suppose to budget an extra grand a year if they want to own a ford diesel?
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I know that's a normal msg, but what has me thinking is the fact I've had my truck just over 2 weeks and it only has 1350 miles on it. My understanding is that a tank of DEF should last at least 5000 miles (service interval), which means either my delivery prep guys overlooked filling it or it using way more DEF than it should.
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I was just outside and noticed a little puddle under the front of the truck. I crowled under her to find orange coolant on the seam of the radiater right above the drain. I thought maybe the drain was open a little but no, it was tight. I have 40000 miles on the truck.
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My battery light is coming on in the mornings for up to about 14 miles. I am showing 13.2 to 13.6 volts with torque pro. The light hardly ever comes on in the afternoon, but sometimes. I had the batteries and alternator tested yesterday at Advance Auto parts. Alternator showed good both times they tested it. Batteries showed at or just above their rated cranking amps. I have inspected both negative grounds from the batteries, the engine ground from the firewall to the passenger side back side of the engine, and the body ground on the passenger side to the frame. They look great, tight, and have not moved in a long time. I added a cable from the alternator to the fender well and it showed about 7 amps while idling before dropping to about 4.5 amps. I am thinking of still buying a new alternator anyway. That is the only think I can think of. Worse case, I just have a spare in the back of the truck.
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How many miles should I go before changing fuel filters and air filter?
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I didn't drive my truck for one day and the batteries are died. This is the second time this has happen. That is a pretty fast drain time. THe truck only has 2500 miles on it. And I;m talking the batteries a dead dead. I hate having to take the truck to the shop. Just a big inconvenience. And it only happens about three weeks apart. I bet that would be pretty had to find the problem.
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I just got a used F350 with 28k miles I cleaned the battery posts and checked all fluids, changed the fuel filters just in case they were due ( they looked pretty clean), air filter is a WIX had a bunch of bugs in it but still pretty clean... oil monitor says oil OK and filter looks too clean to be that old. It looks like a coolant leak at the turbo was fixed about 1000 miles ago or so and dealer said coolant would have been changed out at that time.
Am I missing anything I should do or check?
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Driving to work yesterday my engine shuttered and then shut off. The Display said low oil pressure and then powered down, all in about 15 seconds. Dealer called me today told me the engine is blown and is in the hands of Ford now. The only thing he told me was sit back and wait, I can not tell you how long it's going to be. but I am going to be screwed as far as work goes.
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I have noticed the last couple of days that after the truck has been running and well warmed up I will on occasion smell that sweet smell of antifreeze. I can find nothing in the interior of the cab, If I raise the hood there maybe a faint smell of antifreeze.
I have approx. 31,000 miles on the truck and a few months to go on the bumper to bumper warranty.
Does this sound like the overly popular radiator leak starting to raise it's ugly head? Is there another likely culprit?
Where do I need to be looking to locate the source of the antifreeze smell.
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I've got about 1100 miles on my new truck now and I will be heading to S.D in a week or so towing my car hauler with FJ40 on top and camping gear. About 10 000 pds.
Would it be wise to dump the factory oil and go with 5w40 Rotella? It has been getting really hot here the last two weeks and its only getting hotter as I drive south.
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So, I recently had my 4th oil change done at the dealer, just under 36k miles. Same dealer that has done /all/ service on my 2011. They used the same parts and materials as always, but this time there is a very noticeable "typewriter" sort of noise at idle. Much louder than the normal chatter, and not consistent - tick.... tick-tick... tick.... tick... tick tick tick... etc. The diesel tech shrugged it off: "Ford says it's nothing to worry about." As it has never happened before, and it sounded a /lot/ like lifter noise resulting from a low-oil condition, I asked him to put in another quart. He did, and the noise went away. Mostly.
Now I've only driven about 75 miles since the oil change, but the last time I drove it, I had the windows down and noticed what sounded like lifter noise again. Not the same pattern at idle. This time, it was under light acceleration and the frequency increased with engine speed. It's going back to the dealer in the morning. Not only for this, they're also on their third attempt in the past 2 weeks at fixing a squeak in the dash. But while it's in, I want this noise to go away.
In spite of all the posts about how this sort of noise it typical with new oil, and goes away in 10-2000 miles, I'm concerned. Nothing has changed other than the fresh oil and filter. In the last 3 oil changes, this condition never existed. Am I being reasonable?
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I have a 12 cc 4x4 drw. I hauled a bull and a cow about 100 miles this morning. I was pullling approx 6k including the trailer. The temp was about 75*. 50-60 miles into the trip I switched to the oil temp screen and the oil temp was 224* and the trannie was 199*. I was going into the wind which was about 20 mph, and I was traveling 75mph. The truck never lugged down heck it never shifted out of 6th gear. When I unloaded the cattle the temp came back down around 190*. Headed home and the temp got up to 226* and the tranni went to 205*. This was going with the wind and just the trailer. I am using oem 10w-30 motorcraft and motorcraft filters. The truck just has 9k miles on it. I am thinking that the oil temp is a little warm, should I be worried. What should I look for to diagnose. I like to do my own diagnosing if I can, the dealers around me can't find anything wrong even if you point the leak out to them. Should I be using a different oil?
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Changed alternator yesterday, batteries 2 weeks ago, was having trouble with alternator, now it takes 2 to 3 minutes of running to start charging normal but after driving 3 to 5 miles battery light comes on, hooked up volt meter and shows charge of 14.0 to 14. 4 volts and battery light is on, why ?
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Just got a look at my 03' 6.0 turbo at Ford dealer. Truck still had boost but a real bad noise that was hard to describe. Pulled codes but no turbo code like the last turbo's. All the vanes were fine & no rust on the unison ring BUT the turbo shaft was broken. 3rd turbo went at 13,700 miles in July 2005 & now have 47,700 miles. I know I should drive it more but at 75 & having sold my boat it does't get driven to much.
I use Stanadyne with every tank full & drive it hard at least once every week to give the turo a workout. Use only Motorcraft oil every 3500 miles. Broken shaft on turbo would move about a 1/4 " on one end & a 1/2" on the other end. Ford service said they have seen shafts break before but said it was nothing I did to cause it.
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I got the low DEF fluid message today. 800km to empty (500 miles). I checked early in the day and message said DEF fluid level was O.K. I never got the message exhaust fluid 1/2 full. I had a jug at home so when I arrived home I filled the tank. I had a 2.5 gallon jug. I assumed it would take the entire jug. It would only take 2/3. It would appear I have a false low DEF message. This happened shortly after purchasing the truck but then it seemed to correct itself until now. I now have 40,000 km's (25,000 miles) on the truck.
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