Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2005 - No Reverse Lights - Parking Sensor Stuck In Park?
Apr 22, 2015
Reverse lights not coming on, and parking sensor stuck at ' OFF ' , have replaced switch to no avail
Any tips out there ?
2005 6.0 Supercab Lariat diesel Auto 4 wd
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My 2012 F250 6.7 once again (third time in 2k miles) got stuck in park with no brake lights or traction control. I found that removing the shroud from the steering wheel allowed me to manually activate the solenoid and get into gear but could only drive in manual shift mode.
Something is causing the brake switch fuse to blow. When I replace the fuse all is well for maybe 1k miles then it happens again! After the second time I replaced the brake switch thinking it was the cause but no deal. It happened a third time. The dealer who fixed it the first time could not find the cause.
This is frustrating and downright dangerous! What in the circuit could be causing the short?
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2011, 69,000 miles. My truck is experiencing very hard shifts from park to drive or park to reverse after a cold soak. It goes away once warmed up. I can't find any excessive driveline play and my transmission fluid level appears fine and in good condition.
The last repair done on my truck was around 7,000 miles ago and it was for a transmission fluid leak around the bell housing. They just replaced the seal between the torque converter and transmission.
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I have noticed that I have to hold my gear selector towards park to get the reverse lights to come on. Also some times I have to hold it towards park to get it to start. I changed my tranny in Dec 2009 and occasionally it would do this while starting, just noticed the reverse lights about a week ago. Tried moving the cable where it attaches to the tranny a couple of serrations each direction. No luck. Is there another place I can make an adjustment?
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Borrowed a buddys trailer that had wiring issues. I ended up blowing a mini fues & maxi fuse in my truck. 06 F350 CC ... Replaced both fuses in the truck and had park lights on the truck but now dont get any lights on any trailers. All factory plugs 7pin & 4 pin. I get turn signals and brake lights on the trailers but that is all. If the fuses are good were should I start looking for problems? or is there more fuses I may be missing. I have metered all the fuses under the dash aswell as under hood all check out. Where to go next ???
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I picked up a 2016 F250 Powerstroke in the first of March. I owned a 2011 before and loved it.
The 2016 has been great so far, but I've noticed a sound that wasn't present in my 2011.
When the transmission is warmed up, I get a "cla-click" sound from the transmission area when sifting from park to reverse. It doesn't do it all the time and I can only hear it, not "feel" it.
This AM I heard a similar click sound when I came to a complete stop. I only heard it while stopping, not while taking off. I could repeat it almost every time I stopped. I was in drive the whole time I heard the click sound while stopping.
What it may be? I know sounds are one of the hardest things to communicate/diagnose.
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I am replacing the turbo on my 2005 f350 6.0. I have the passenger side mounting bolt and the rear mounting bolt out, but cannot get the driver side bolt to budge. I have sprayed it with WD40 and PB Blaster and tried a breaker bar. No luck breaking it loose. I am afraid I might round off the head even though I am using a 6 point socket.
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I have an 05 f350 6.0 that I recently bought. It was fine until a few weeks ago when it died while I was driving down the road. I pulled to the side and it started right back up like nothing happened and kept driving like normal. Skip to last weekend it did it to me twice but the second time it would not start so I plugged my programmer in and it showed p0336 crank position sensor and cam portion sensor codes (I can't remember the number of the second code) I have read a few posts that said maybe it's the icp sensor so I went ahead and replaced that with no luck. The batteries went dead from excessive cranking which I know isn't very good for my starter but I was getting a little upset.
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I have been having a problem with the fog lights on my 05 F-250 super duty truck. They won't come on when I'm parked but when I'm going down the road they'll come on and usually go right back off or will stay on for a min or longer but still sooner or later they go out. I think it's a shortage somewhere but I'm not sure on whether it's in the switch on the dash or somewhere in the wiring.
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The service truck threw a CEL, and i pulled oxygen sensor performance bank one sensor one code. That would be driver side sensor between the manifold and cat, rite? Don't want to change the wrong one...
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I have 2000 F-250 7.3L when I start it up and push the brake it won't come out of park and when I push the brake the volt meter goes to 8 volts. If I shut it off and try again it is ok. Might take a couple of times of doing this then it's ok for a couple of days then it happens again. I've checked the connection on brake switch and everything looks ok. What to check next?
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I got a stuck and screaming parking aide sensor. Hit reverse and it its screaming full bore. Good news is I installed that manual override button last year for use when hitching the trailer, so for now I have the entire thing shut off. So I read some on this issue on the forums and have tried to listen for the one that's clicking, don't hear anything clicking, cleaned them all. Any other electrical issue that could cause this or how I trouble shoot to narrow down the bad guy? Two of them are pretty easy to get out the other two are a PITA so I had to have to pull them all. Especially with it being below zero, even the garage heat full on is barely above freezing.
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On my '96 ranger with an automatic the reverse lights only come on between park and reverse, but once put into reverse they go out. The gear selector on the dash reads right, when the needle is on"P"it's in park, "R" drops into reverse and so forth. Do I need to adjust the shifter cable on the side of the transmission? If so how do I do this (I kinda need step by step with removal and adjusting, I've already tried and couldn't get it off the bracket). It's starting to drive me nuts, I've searched on the web for hours with no luck. I've even posted on other sites with zero answers.
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Last November I forgot to plug my truck in and it got down to 0, my girlfriend tried unsuccessfully to jump start it. When I got home I jumped it and got it running. I took it down to a heated shop to troubleshoot the glow plug circuit. I discovered it was not getting 12v to the glow plug relay. Also I started it and tried to back it up in the shop, when put in reverse it killed the engine, not lugged it down it was like you shut the switch off.
Also I discovered if you turn the lights on it kills the engine immediately. It will not crank with the lights on either. So far I have replaced the computer,ignition switch,batteries, and cam positioning sensor. Now comes the weird part!! I decided to get it running and pull the bulbs out of the back up lights I pulled the drivers bulb first then the passengers side bulb. When I pulled the passengers side bulb it killed the engine.
It is not my daily driver so it still sits in my shop. I have a hunch it's a ground issue but I've checked and cleaned up all the grounds I can find and it still has the problem.
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I was pulling into my driveway. I put the car in park, but when i went to get out of the car, it started to roll forward. When I finally got it stopped, I tried to shift it, and it wouldn't shift to any spot. Then it became stuck in between Park and Reverse. I can't move the gear shift.
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Ok so this is the problem now, i went to check my fuses and pulled a #20 out to see if the cigarette lighter fuse was blown. Guess what? i start the car and all of a sudden the Electronic Parking brake failure kicked on. I tried to get the car out and now it won't get out of park! FML i heard that you can just unplug the battery for 15 min and that should reset the car but who knows... I got vw roadside coming to see what they can do it might need to get towed though
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I was parking my truck and the brakes wouldn't depress and I almost crashed into another vehicle that was parked.
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i have a 99 f350 psd, my problem is i don't have normal; FONT-SIZE: 100%; COLOR: dark green; FONT-FAMILY: inherit">parking</NOBR> and instrument lights, it blows fuse number 8 as soon as i turn the switch on. i checked all the wiring on my tail lights and the trailer hookups. i even disconnected the wiring harness going my tail lights and trailer hookups and it still blows the switch. #8 fuse is trailer tow electronic brake, illumination, park lamps, trailer tow park lamp relay coil. it also blows #4 fuse which is trailer tow backup lamps, trailer tow park lamps.
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I have an electrical problem and my parking lights will not turn off. I had to pull the fuse in the power distribution box (engine compartment) to get them to turn out.
Pulled the switch in the dash (lights still work) and the switch is good so it appears I'm getting power to the circuit somewhere in the harness? Literally, when I pulled the switch out of the dash and replaced the fuse, my lights came on.
Looking for a schematic for a 1999 F350 SWB 7.3PSD? Perhaps it's a relay gone bad?
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Ever since I've had this truck my parking brake has acted like this. My buddy has an '03 and his acts the same, but I figured I'd ask the question.
9 times out of 10 to set the parking brake, the pedal goes almost to the floor and doesn't seem like it really does anything. The other 1 out of 10 it goes half way and feels like it actually sets. Is this normal?
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I just had a remote start installed with a turbo timer that works off of the parking brake being engaged. No matter how hard I press it the light does not go on, however when the installer probed the sensor to ground it, it worked fine.What part this is that needs to be replaced. The stealership quoted me at 200 something for a whole parking brake assembly.
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