Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2005 - No Dome Light - 3rd Brake Light Quit Working?
Jun 3, 2017
I have a 2005 F250 with 6.0 Crew cab
Wanted to change out factory bulbs to LED's. The factories were working just fine, just wanted LED's. Broke a couple of center bulb holder's/clamp. Don't really know what they are called. Went to junk yard got a couple of used ones, those worked because when we opened the doors on wrecked trucks Dome lights came on! Got home put them in and NOTHING. No dome, no map lights with LED's. Changed back to factory bulbs and only map lights come on, NO dome lights on front or back and my 3rd brake light quit along with the 2 bed lights. Checked the wiring plug and have power to one wire. What fuses would I need to check or to check where next? Owner's manual is not very specific about which fuse.
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I recently had my fuel gauge stuck on full and at around the same time, my left rear brake light doesn't work. I do have LED brake lights in the rear so I am not sure if that changes anything. I thinking something with a ground or is it possible that these aren't even related.
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My left side rear blinker/ brake light is not working. The running/taillight side/filment of the bulb works, but the brake/blinker side/filament does nothing ! Just bought the truck used and it's my only issue, waiting on a owners manual, but I think each bulb is fused separate, and since half the bulb works, can I rule out the fuse and start chasing wires ??
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Can't figure out how to turn on dome light, so I broke down and did the un-thinkable, I read the manual.... from page 66
Press and hold the top of the control to the full on position to activate the "dome on" feature. This will turn on the interior courtesy lights. The lights will remain on until the bottom of the control is pressed.
[URL] ......
And no luck. Can hold the button down for a long, long time. The dimmer function works OK so the buttons are working. I would like to be able to turn on the rear light so my kids can buckle themselves.
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What is the likely culprit? No other electrical issues, brake light quit working when brake is depressed, all other lights work including blinkers/running/head. Was going to break out a wiring diagram....
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i just installed a Dash Cam and it needs power all the time. Is there a way to tap into the dome light?
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I went on a 4oo mile trip the other day and kiddos were in the back playing games and powered up- Next thing I know the AC seems to not be working. It was pretty cool outside so I tested it a little and I could not feel any cool air in the seats and teh vents were not very cold.
Clutch seems to be engaged and not cycling.
I am taking back to them Wednesday.
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My truck does mostly pavement duty so no telling how long ago 4WD quit working but I needed it the other day and it's now a no-go. It's the '06 truck in my sig and it has ESOF.
When I flip the switch (4hi or 4low acts the same) my A/C continues to come out of the dash vents, it doesn't change. With KOEO I can hear a whirr-click from under the truck when switching 4wd on and off, I get noise both ways. 4x4 light on the dash seem to work correctly.
Broke out FORScan and got the following info:
===GEM DTC P1832===
Code: P1832 - Transmission Transfer Case 4WD Solenoid circuit failure
Module: Generic Electronic Module
Diagnostic Trouble Code details
Transmission Transfer Case 4WD Solenoid circuit failure
===END GEM DTC P1832===
[Code] ....
Any tips to quickly nail it down between the switch, GEM, wiring or solenoid? Looks like the whole thing is failing. I've climbed under the truck and all the wiring appears undisturbed. No recent work under there. In FORScan, these DTC's were generated in a user initiated test and I didn't pick up the instruction to re-run the test in 4x2 mode until I posted just now.
Under the hood everything seems to be routed correctly and connected. Vacuum pump runs a short while on start up like always has. I can lock hubs manually and they don't seem to be binding hard but they are a little stiff, haven't done that before so I don't know how hard it should be to turn them. I have a MiteVac but haven't tried using it to try and lock the hubs. Not sure any of that matters (yet) with the DTC's listed above.
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I'm working on a 2005 F350 with a 6.0. The customer was driving the truck when it suddenly quit running and now it won't start. The only code stored in the memory is P2290 - ICP too low. With my scanner connected the IPR is showing 85% duty cycle and the ICP is only showing 5 psi while cranking. I disconnected the ICP sensor while cranking but still no fire, so I removed it and connected a pressure gauge which shows zero psi while cranking. I hooked up a cylinder leakdown gauge to the ICP port and with 100 PSI of air pressure I'm showing less than 2% leakage with the IPR energized at 60% duty. Thinking the hpop was bad I replaced it but still no change. I also tried a new IPR but no luck there either. I removed the oil filter cartridge and verified the low pressure pump is pumping oil while cranking. Could the inlet screen be plugged inside the oil cooler? I'm at a complete loss.
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The only problem it's had is the heated seats quit working.
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So just recently my remote start quit working. It's worked fine for the last two years. Now after I hit the buttons the truck just honks. I tried going through the setup on the dash and turning it off and back on. Still just honks at me.
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So for 4500 miles since new my truck has been displaying, on the right side of the instrument display in the center dash, the actual gear the truck is in. I would shift from park to drive and move out and the truck would display what gear it was in by placing a lighted box around the gear number as it shifted 1-6. Now that display is gone. It's not anywhere. If I go to the manual mode it will display that, but the normal numbers from 1-6 , bottom to top , are gone.
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My SYNC voice commands witch I refer to as " Shiela" has quit working. No voice and it does not recognize phone. Just displays " no phone" ????
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We just replaced an injector in my truck. Everything was fine, ran great, etc.
On the freeway home, the dash, windows, locks, radio all quit working. at first they'd stop and come back, stop and come back, etc. then finally they stopped. As I was getting off the nearest exit, the truck started dying on me. Once I got pulled over out of the way, it acted like the battery was completely dead.
After a few minutes of scratching my head and staring under the hood, I happened to look at the passenger side batter, and the crossover cable from the drivers side was broken off right at the terminal!! We must have broke it off while doing the injector. as I look closer at it, it had been broken before. Some idiot before me had actually taken a broken crimp style terminal, shoved it and crimped it into a new one and called it good.
I was able to redneck it back together so i could finish the last couple miles home. I fixed it properly with a new crimp terminal, heat shrink, etc. Why did the engine die with the crossover connection broken? was it because the series was not complete, and all the electronics were running off the battery(s) and not the alternator? I'm really confused. I've heard of people only running one battery before.
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My work truck that I drive, a 2006 F-150 Lariat 4x4 extended cab, rear parking sensors quit working. The button on the dash is lit up all the time like when you shut it off. I posted this on the F-150 section too and was able to find a suggestion that you can listen to each sensor while in reverse and if you don't hear a clicking at the sensor it has failed. All (4) sensors are clicking away while in reverse so not sure what else to check, no one in the F150 section, so that is why I put it here.
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So i had been up in the woods for better half of the day. I had been in 4wd a few times, didn't thrash on anything and while driving home about 30mins into the return trip on the pavement i noticed my speedo only showing 10mph. I know i was easily going 50mph. I changed my SGII gauge to show MPH and sure enough i was going way faster. Eventually the needled dropped to zero and stayed that way for at least 5 miles. Then I came to a stop to and made a right turn giving it a bit of throttle and the speedo began to work correctly and did so for the remaining 5 miles. the Odom also during that time wasn't adding mileage. could this be from the rear sensor ontop of the rear diff?
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I have a 2006 F150 and the left rear turn signal and brake light has quit working. Also the license plate lights do not work. The cruise will disconnect when signalling a left turn. I have checked fuses and bulbs and the wiring/connector at the multifunction switch with no luck.
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I have a 2005 F250 6.0l. I have no speedo and the ABS light is on. It was intermittent at first. It would go on and off if I hit a bump or braked quickly, but now for the last month the light has been on constantly.
I have tried the following to no avail:
1. check the harness to the VSS (rear ABS senor on the pumpkin)
2. replaced the VSS on the rear
3. check the lines from the vss for resistance and open short (and short to ground)
4. checked the HS-can network (pins 14 and 6 in the DLC to the respective HS-can + and - on the module) both have less than 5 ohms (about 3 ohms found) and no short.
5. checked the resistance of the network itself across pin 4-16 and found 60 ohms.
6. ran scans with OBD fusion for ABS (no abs found)
7. ran scans with forscan with laptop, does not detect ABS unit neither new or old module. note the TBC and IC both throw codes about not detecting the ABS.
8. check HS-can on the PCM as well as VSS wire from abs to pcm, no shorts or resistance.
9. check the number 11 fuse, (good) checked ALL fuses, only bad fuse found was trailer light number 20 engine bay. issue was a wire at the tailer connector was t-taped and not sealed leading to a short to frame.
10. checked the connector to the ABS module for power on both constant power pins, for open ground on both grounds, and power on run, all with in spec.
I've been diagnosing this for the last week, I am running out of things I can think of to check.
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2005 6.0 F350 dually, speedometer quit working and the ABS light came on. I replaced the speedo sensor in the diff, but to no avail. Hear a lot about the cluster, however nothing with the ABS light on.
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So my cruise quit working AND my air bag light came on... NO codes and my other steering buttons and horn work?? everything I read points to the spiral cable since the AB light is on. But the horn works?? I don't see how the pressure switch or the brake and clutch switch would make the ab light come on...
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I was wanting a fuse digram for a 2011 f250 6.7. My right brake light is out and I don't have a way of knowing what fuses have to deal with the lights. If some one could tell the which ones or send me a diagram
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