Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2005 - No Start - Tow / Haul Light Flash And Won't Shift Into OD
Dec 19, 2015
I have an 05 Excursion and I drove and parked it, no problem. Came back out and the trouble began. I looked on this site (always do for the best guidance and info) and replaced the trans position sensor, put tunes back to stock. Since then, I have had intermittent issues with the truck only starting with the code reader plugged in, idle jump to 750 rpm, and the tow/haul light flash and won't shift into OD. It also seems at full stops it is not in the low gear. I am driving it to the "stealership" today to have the computer flashed. Additionally, the blinkers won't flash, they only illuminate. All this started at once. Where all the ground straps/wires are??
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Okay so I just peaked 100k and (of course) my 6.0 has an issue. I was driving along when suddenly my Transmission Temp gauge dropped to nothing, the tow haul began flashing and my check engine light came on. My transmission hard shifted and wouldn't shift up from 3rd. I let the truck sit for a few days, no leaking was observed and no blown lines. I added 4qts of tranny fluid and went to take it for a spin. The truck did fine for about 20 minutes and the same issue occurred. I parked it and checked the dip stick and it was full. What could the issue be.
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My co-worker has an 06 F250 SC 4x4 and is getting a P0713 code. 2006 Ford F250 6.0L Diesel ... Tow/haul light comes on flashing at random times. Truck is reading a P0713 code which is the TFT Sensor Failure/Replacement
Ford dealership is telling me that I also have to pull the valve body and install the new upgraded wiring harness (3-3.5 hours labor) but a thread on this forum stated I just needed to replace the sensor in the tranny pan and reconnect the wire harness. Do I need to upgrade the wiring harness?
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2004 F-250 6.0 Turbo Diesel W/ Torque Shift Transmission. Im having a problem with my Check Gauge light coming on and Tow Haul light flashing on my 04 F-250. I got a Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor from my local Ford Dealership. They also said i needed to replace the Transmission harness for this application because of an open circuit.
My questions are, Is Mercon SP the only ATF that can be used on the Torque shift transmission and do i really need to replace the harness or just the sensor? I have read up a little on this and so far everything say's drain the fluid, drop the trans pan, swap out the sensor, replace the trans pan (torque setting is 11flbs I believe, correct me if I am wrong, replace with Mercon SP ATF and your good to go.
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Friday I pulled my steel gn 3 horse trailer about an hour each way. with the horses it weighs right at 7000 pounds. no issues. Saturday morning I drove to town, no issues. Saturday evening, I got in it to run down the road and about 2 miles from the house, the check engine light came on and the tow haul light started flashing and the temp gauge is dead. drives and shifts normal, tow haul button still functions. Truck is stock except for an EGR delete. No tuner, FICM was rebuilt. I had it on a battery minder before I left and was thinking about pulling the batteries and letting it sit for a while to see if it clears. Scan Gauge II shows no codes.
Sunday: So I let it sit all night, batteries connected and it was completely normal this morning. will see what happens when I drive it to work tomorrow
Later Sunday evening: So I just took it out for a test drive, went a couple miles down the road, shifting normal for a cold start. Temp gauge is working, just as I am almost back home. 5 miles at the most, temp is coming up to normal, gauge goes dead and check gauge light comes on and tow haul starts flashing. I think it might be the sensor.
This morning: I got about 6 or 7 miles from home, trans just got up to temp, pulling up a hill, it shifted out of overdrive, tft gauge went dead, check gauge light came on and the tow haul light started flashing. still shifts like it always has and the tow haul button still functions.
I am thinking it is just the temp sensor. Truck has 159k on it.
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My friend has a 2006 F-450 and he said the Tow/Haul light blinks and the shifts are real slow. He has stopped towing now and it still drives.
I have read everything from toasted tranny to chaffed wire harness across tranny crossmember to the TFT sensor. My guess is the TFT sensor given his symptoms. If I am right the sensor is just to the rear of where the dipstick comes thru the tranny case. 1/4 turn and pull it out. Kinda like a bulb I guess.
Another question, is it necessary to replace the harness while in there as well? Is the Connection listed below the harness I am asking about? I found these parts on a thread from here:
Sensor (1): 3C3Z-7H141-AA;
Connection (1) 4C3Z-7G276-AA;
Gasket (1): 3C3Z-7C155-DA;
Fluid (10): XT-6-QSP
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Have a 2003 F350 srw 4x4, 107,000 miles on it. Driving it last night tow/haul light started flashing, hooked up AE got a P0730 Incorrect gear ratio. Truck seem to do ok, cut it off went back out a little while later and the tow/haul didn't flash.... Only issues I've had is when shifting from P to R, it takes a second or two longer than it should and shifts hard when it does but it doesn't do it every time.
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I have 2005 f350 will not shift on the fly. With a vacuum pump it will hold vacuum at both hubs but will not lock up. The seals should be good.
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I have a 2005 f250 super duty turbo diesel 6.0 automatic. The problem I'm having is, when I engage the tow/haul button the transmission doesn't down shift unless I feather the pedal. Also the engine will overheat at times. I've replaced the thermostat...
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Is there a way to auto engage the Tow/Haul mode when you plug in a trailer that requires brakes? Be nice since I sometimes forget to push the button after we stopped for lunch...
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So driving the other day and tow haul starts flashing. I come to a stop sign and goto take off and it barley takes off. It will barley roll if my foot is off the pedal sometimes wont even roll. Also won't shift into 6th. Once it gets rolling though say till about 25 it's fine. Just doesn't wanna take off? I scanned the trans but got no codes. And here are some pressures and stuff but I don't know what I'm looking for with the trans. This was all done in park.
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How do you diagnose a bad fan clutch? When driving in tow/haul mode I get a noise like a jet engine. It starts going down grade or upgrade and does not stop after leveling out. I have switched off tow/haul and it is still there. Over on the Diesel Stop site I found a couple of guys who have had the same problem. Concern is everything I have read there are no codes thrown. Have not taken to my local Ford Dealer to see what they say.
Driving a 2011 F-250, August 2010 build date with 76,500 miles. Problem started about 6 weeks ago when pulling an 8000 lb travel trailer in the White Mountains of NH.
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Experiencing a melt down with one of my trucks. One of our trucks is an 06 F250 SD with 80k on a 5.4L and the other day the tow/haul light started to flash. I took it to a buddy's repair shop (who is an experienced Ford tech and tranny guy) any way, it shifted fine until about the last 1/2 mile before I got to his shop, then it started shifting in and out of different gears. He found solenoid "A" pressure solenoid failure and one other solenoid failure, he replaced all 7 solenoids and also found the pigtail from the transmission to the wire harness bad as well and replaced that. I pick it up and get about a mile down the road and the light starts to flash again so I took it back, he ran his scanner and now found something with the coast clutch and through all his testing it told him the coast clutch needs replaced. He removed the trans. and tore it all down and found nothing wrong with anything, in fact he said everything looked in great shape and thinks the pcm failed.
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Have a Gage fault and tow haul flashing on the dash have no clue what is going on?
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I have a 2012 ford f350 SRW 4x4 with the 6.7L. Problem I have just started to have. When going downhill in tow haul the truck at first will hold you back then all of a sudden it starts to up shift at 20 mph it reaches 6th gear pretty quick. I talked to the dealer and they suggested I was pushing the shift buttons, but I am not. They told me to drive it till next week and then they will see if there are any codes in it.
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In addition to significantly louder noise from the Turbo on start-up, we've started to hear a pretty concerning noise while descending a hill in Tow-Haul. Not sure that the T/H has anything to do with it other than getting the engine in a RPM range that causes the noise. We've taken it in and tech says "That's just normal noise"... What ever that is.
Here is a link to an example : Tow haul making a lot of noise in my F350 diesel. Pulling a very heavy horse trailer. - YouTube
Best next steps for a 64,000 mile 2012?
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Title says it all. Chirping sounds almost like belt noise but appears to be coming underneath the vehicle (and from further back than the drivers seat). Goes away as soon as I turn off tow haul (which provides engine braking). A quick visual inspection finds nothing amiss. Trucks runs and drives normally with or without tow haul.
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Quick observation: with the exhaust brake switch off, I notice it appears that the exhaust brake is still working automatically when you are in Tow/Haul mode and apply the brakes coming down a hill.
I notice the engine drone and turbo boost gauge rise...although neither the drone nor the boost are as noticeable as when the switch is turned on.
I know the 2011-2014 had "auto exhaust brake only" but it appears some of that functionality is still built in.
Another question: what is the consequence of turning the exhaust brake on and leaving it on for normal driving? Is mpg affected? Engine output? Engine wear?
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It's on my 2015 f-250....dont know if this is a new thing ..... I know my 2011 f-350 didn't have it..... Really hardly notice its working ....it slightly slows me down when in tow/haul mode while braking......
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My 05 F350 will not start hot, occasionally stalls when hot as well. Starts immediately when cold and runs smooth as silk. Truck has 138k miles on it, I bought it studded and deleted, running 5w40 Rotella T6 with Archoil. Some history on the issue: Started out with a rough idle, found low FICM voltage along with a bad battery. Replaced both batteries and FICM, problem fixed. Soon after developed a misfire with a cyl 5 imbalance and injector code, replaced all 8 injectors which fixed that issue.
About 2 months ago I had a no start problem, turned out to be a bad ICP, replaced that and the harness and was all good for about 3 weeks. That's when it started becoming hard to start when the motor was warm, and then no start at all when hot and would stall occasionally at idle, wait an hour and it'll fire right up!
Ran the air leak test, found a leak on the right bank standpipe, replaced the dummy plugs and standpipes, no start still remained. Went on to replace the IPR and STC fitting which didn't work either. Now it throws a P2285 code, low ICP. Ran the air test again and I don't hear any leaks. HPOP seemed to have good compression turning by hand.
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Any input on replacing the entire transmission valve body or just individual shift solenoids? My truck has begun experiencing a harsh shift from 1st to 2nd under light acceleration accompanied by occasional shift flare from 2nd to 3rd and 5th to 6th. I have located parts to do either job. It looks straight forward from just disconnecting the harness. I also understand there are different bands associated with the solenoids. Is there a requirement to have new transmission programming to accompany swapping these components?
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