Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2005 F350 - Hard / No Start - Low Power
Oct 28, 2015
Don't know where to start so I'll ramble!
2005 f350 with the 6.0. Crew Cab, 8' box, 4x4 with DRW. I use it only take the boat to the launch 5 minutes away once in a while and to pull car trailers every other week. Majority of driving is on the highway and average trip is about 300 miles. Low power and now no start.
No codes. I do have a scan Gauge and can provide data.
Was running this week, but has had a lack of power for some time. I had put 2 new injectors in last summer. Also updated dummy and stand pipes. Blue spring. Also new IPR at the time.
Ficm board was replaced in March.
New injector harness last year. New Glow plug harness last year.
Coolant level is fine and none being lost.
CAC hoses appear fine, no cracks.
No boost. But newer MAP sensor, hose not cracked or plugged and nipple on intake is clear. Put the MAP sensor last year and it didn't make a difference.
Turbo was rebuilt 2 years ago.
IPR has to hit close to 80 before boost hits 12-15. But it takes a while to get there.
Now won't start.
Yesterday am it was about 30 farenheit and no start. Last year would start no problem.
Batteries are fine. tested.
Engine fires within 3 seconds, but doesn't want to run.
ICP is above 500. climbs as I turn over.
Fires only in first few seconds and then nothing while I keep cranking it. it is cranking fast enough though.
Now...I see IPR will hit 84.7% and then 14.8%. Not good!
When running it sits in between.
FICm voltage is 48.5 key one and 47.5 when cranking.
Wondering if possibly IPR screen is plugged? Or would CKS or CPS cause issues? I recall reading about pulling one of them and cleaning rust off of it? Also...should mention, no EGR reading on scan gauge..never was either. I had checked and cleaned egr valve before. it was clean when I pulled it and not sticking.
Intake had been cleaned 2years ago. Also, on occasion, while pulling up hill, I would get power! Black smoke and it would race up a hill like it's supposed. Then it would go back to no power.
Also...if I pull the MAP hose from the intake nipple, should I feel suction from the intake? There doesn't appear to be any air coming or going from the nipple.
View 14 Replies
Advertisement
I have 2005 f350 with 365000 km on it I have it for one year and don't have a problem till last week. I was pulling van on dolly uphill and sadden lost pover, so I stopped and check oil leaks ,transmission .... But everything looks ok in couple minutes start engine and go home (10 km). Change fuel filters trans filter, looked good for 50km and star losing power again and doesn't want start. So I skan and its show me next numbers.
Key on engine off
Ipr-15%
Icp-0psi
Icp-.26v
Ficm main power-47.8
Ficm logistics power-14.5
Ficm sync is good
Engine crank
Ipr-85%
Ficm main power-48.0
Ficm logistics-12.5
Icp- 625psi
Icp-.77v-1v
So what I have to do?
View 9 Replies
I have a 2006 F350 6.0L. That is Having trouble starting after it is warmed up. Ive been told multiple things it could be but the one ive been told the most is the Stand pipe or dummy plug in the oil rail having a small leak. Is this correct? Or is there something else i need to Check??
View 8 Replies
2005 F 350 6.0
124000 miles. Drove the truck on a long road trip Saturday ran great. Didn't touch it Sunday. Went out Monday morning and it wouldn't start I noticed the fuel gauge said empty and the low fuel light was on. I knew there was plenty of diesel still in the tank but I still went and bought 5 gal and dumped in it fuel gauge then read over half full but still won't start. A buddy who's a mechanic swung by sprayed starter fluid in it fired right up then died he said I need a new fuel pump. I have been reading the forums. I just want to make sure is he right?
View 6 Replies
My friend has an 05 6.0. He's having a no start issue. He was driving and it cut off, he couldn't remember if it cut off quick or sputtered. I hooked up my AE and jumper cables and stated looking. Cranking the icp would only build up to 190ish. I unplugged the icp sensor and AE was reading 1538ish??, I guess that was a default value. The ipr reading immediately went up to 85% but still doesn't fire. Also while cranking there wasn't any white smoke at all from the exhaust. A few years ago he broke down and Ford put in the updated snap to connect fitting. He said they also replaced the dummy plugs but he didn't mention stand pipes so... I'm not where the truck is so if there's any questions it might take a few.
View 9 Replies
Fuel injectors do this? They are off a 2006 Ford F350 dually with the 6.0 diesel motor! Have replaced all 8 fuel injectors got back drove for 200miles and fuel injectors 4 and 8 were throwing codes changed them out and high pressure oil pump oil coolant deleted egr valve changed the ipr valve feed tubes to the oil rails. replaced the FICM. Yet again drove for 2 days about 200 miles again and shut down (stalled) misfiring hard start. and now fuel injector 4 is throwing codes again. Have not drove it since we got it home from the last stall out which was a few feet from our drive way and we towed it home.
View 5 Replies
I just got finished putting on arp head studs and gasket, new bulletproof oil cooler and egr delete. Put it back together the way it came apart but it doesn't start. Just turns over but wont start??????? 2005 F350....
View 14 Replies
Rough idle I have had for little bit.Would stall out at idle or a stop, but fire right up? No one could figure it out with the stalling, but now its bad, started yesterday. Have white/blueish smoke sometimes, ( white smoke smells fuel) on restart after warmed when it dies, first time it took 25 mins to restart, now only takes 5 to 15 mins, when I step on it INCREDIBLE full power, fuel mileage gone to hell also since yesterday. Had full tank, now 1/2 tank.
No problems on cold start at all, no check light, 325,000 and never had this before.
Bad fuel?
ICP?
FICM?
Recent work, new turbo, ( turbo was original turbo installed when built) cooling line to waterpump, oil change, new fuel filters, front brakes and 2 new batteries.
View 5 Replies
I have an 05 f350 6.0 that I recently bought. It was fine until a few weeks ago when it died while I was driving down the road. I pulled to the side and it started right back up like nothing happened and kept driving like normal. Skip to last weekend it did it to me twice but the second time it would not start so I plugged my programmer in and it showed p0336 crank position sensor and cam portion sensor codes (I can't remember the number of the second code) I have read a few posts that said maybe it's the icp sensor so I went ahead and replaced that with no luck. The batteries went dead from excessive cranking which I know isn't very good for my starter but I was getting a little upset.
View 11 Replies
I got a 2005 f350 6.0 deleted and studded with air dog 2 4g pump, 125k miles. It started running rough then just died all within a few miles tuner showed code for injector 6 and ficm towed into ford dealer didn't have time to mess with it. They said ficm was bad had them replaced it then they said i need whole new fuel system lines, harness, pump, sending unit , tank the whole 9 yrds. Which i thought was uncalled for so i called up airdog which system i had on there and they laughed and said ford garage is full of bs that they will upgrade my pump to the 4g and new harness.
So I took that stuff to the garage had them swap it out and now they said come get the truck they won't work on it anymore that now it needs 3 injectors and they won't touch it with aftermarket fuel system on it. So i go to drive it home and it starts but runs rough and u can hold it to the floor and it won't budge bearly idles up and builds no boost my tuner is showing injector 2,3,4 now which wasn't a problem before i took it into the garage. So im not sure what happened to cause this all to happen but before i sink any more money into it is the 3 injectors enough cause to make it not build boost now.
View 10 Replies
I have a 2005 F-350 Lariat, FX4, CrewCab, with an 8ft Bed if any of that matters. Currently sitting at 191,000 miles and 4,500 Engine Hours I just started running into some issues that I cannot figure out. To start with here is a list of all the mods and prior maintenance that I've done to my truck over that last 6+ years that I've owned it.
I purchased the truck in 2010 and had no issues whatsoever for the first 3 years.....then it all started. While pulling a camper home from vacation "still bone stock" the truck overheated and by the time I realized it it was to late. I ended up blowing a head gasket cracking a head and blowing a hole in my coolant reservoir from the heat & compression of the engine in the coolant system. So to the shop it went.
All of this was done at the same time at just under 4,000 engine hours:
1) Both heads were sent out to be pressure tested "which is where the crack was found", so 1 replacement head and the other trued up and tested by the machine shop
2) All 8 injectors replaced with Airtex/Wells New/Reman
3) ARP Head Studs
4) BPD EGR Cooler
5) New Stock Coolant Reservoir
6) New Stock Oil Cooler
7) Motorcraft Coolant & Oil/Oil Filter Change
8) New Serpentine Belt
After getting the truck back I installed some upgrades that I had wanted but didn't want to do until I had head studs. 4" Turbo back Diamond Eye Performance exhaust, Bully Dog GT Tuner with an EGT Pyro, coolant changed to Caterpillar ELC, Sinister Diesel coolant filtration system, new Optima batteries "I hated them",
Forward a year with no problems I had a crank but no start. I ended up having a bad IPR. A buddy rebuilt the turbo since I had it out and it was leaking. He apparently did something wrong because it took its own life sometime after. So a brand new stock Garrett Turbo with a Wicked Wheel 2 & I changed the IPR "don't remember the brand." Also replaced the factory paper air filter with a cleanable one from AFE that fits in the factory cold air intake.
Little more time and I started to have some overheating issues again, luckily the Bully Dog was monitoring and I had alerts set up so I caught it way before it caused any serious damage. Turned out the fan clutch wasn't working. So I replaced the Water Pump with one from dieselsite.com that has a steel impeller, also replaced the computer controlled fan clutch with a 7.3L mechanical fan clutch and an adapter from BPD.
After that the batteries I hated were replaced. I installed Oddssey Extreme 950CCA ones, a new 185A alternator from FICMRepair.com as well as the complete battery wiring interconnect kit. Did the blue spring upgrade. Replaced my FICM with the BPD 6 phase at 54V setting. Also I changed my starter to an 6.4L Ultima one from O'Reily Auto to bring me up from that slow crank of the 6.0L at about 150RPM to the 225RPM of the 6.4L.
So now on to the current issue. This has happened in the last month and may be related to the issue. I had some small coolant leaks and wanted them fixed. Pressure tested the system & found the radiator and timing cover gasket leaking. I installed a new stock radiator and lower radiator hose. Had the shop do the gasket and a serpentine belt due to cleaners being all over it. During replacement of the timing cover gasket my mechanic found that the LPOP gears had some damage as if something had be in there at one time. Not sever damage just minor. LPOP replaced with brand new one from Ford.
After I got the truck back it was fine for 2 weeks, no leaks or any problems whatsoever. Then I noticed a hesitation as I was leaving work at idle. You could see the RPM's moving up and down by about 50 as it sat there at idle. It got really bad and eventually stalled on me. It fired right back up and ran fine after. I was thinking water in the fuel or just maybe old fuel because it was kinda old and I was at 1/4 of a tank. I went and filled up and it ran great all the way home. Day or so later same thing. At idle you can see the RPM fluctuating and while driving it feels like it has no power at times then it goes away and runs fine. So I changed both fuel filter with Motorcraft ones and put in a new oil filter. It is the Wix brand but I've be running it for years with no issues, one was also in it way before this issues started. The oil has about 2,000 miles on it currently. I verified fuel pressure at idle to be at 70PSI. I tried unplugging the ICP at idle with no change in the hesitation. So I plugged in my SG2 and started to see if I could see anything out of the ordinary.
OAT - 60 Degrees F
KOEO Engine Cold - FMP - 54.5V, ICV - 0.25V, ICP - 0, IPR - 14.9
KOER Engine Warm - FMP - 54.5V, ICV - 0.82V, ICP - 576, IPR - 23.5
Cruise at 40MPH - FMP - 54.5V, ICV - 1.14V, ICP - 965, IPR - 32.9
Cruise at 50MPH - FMP - 54.5V, ICV - 1.42V, ICP - 1,190, IPR - 38.0
Cruise at 60MPH - FMP - 54.5V, ICV - 1.27V, ICP - 1,143, IPR - 37.2
While driving this issue comes and goes very randomly. The only parameter I notice changing alot is the IPR. It jumps around a lot and sometimes it will go to 85. I know that this isn't a good thing so I am going to change the IPR later today or tomorrow. I already had a brand new Motorcraft one to put in, plus at the very least I want to look at the screen. I had read somewhere that there could be air in the oil system and that if you run at a high RPM it can remove this air. I never seen any bubbles or anything on the dipstick. My brother ran the truck for me at 3,000RPM for 5 minutes. No hesitation during the test but he didn't have the SG2 plugged in so I don't know the parameters during the test. I thought that it worked but then it came back after a few miles of driving. The above parameters are from this mornings drive home from work.
View 9 Replies
I got a 2005 f350 6.0 deleted and studded with air dog 2 4g pump, 125k miles. It started running rough then just died all within a few miles tuner showed code for injector 6 and ficm towed into ford dealer didnt have time to mess with it. They said ficm was bad had them replaced it then they said i need whole new fuel system lines,harness,pump,sending unit ,tank the whole 9 yrds. Which i thought was uncalled for so i called up airdog which system i had on there and they laughed and said ford garage is full of bs that they will upgrade my pump to the 4g and new harness.
So I took that stuff to garage had them swap it out and now they said come get the truck they wont work on it anymore that now it needs 3 injectors and they wont touch it with aftermarket fuel system on it. So I go to drive it home and it starts but runs rough and u can hold it to the floor and it wont budge bearly idles up and builds no boost my tuner is showing injector 2,3,4 now which wasn't a problem before i took it into the garage. So im not sure what happened to cause this all to happen but before i sink any more money into it is the 3 injectors enough cause to make it not build boost now .
View 7 Replies
I've got a 2005 F350 that i recently did balljoints, tierods and shocks/stabilizer on. Just stating that because i don't believe anything could be binding up to cause this.
If i am to take a left turn, more than 45 degrees, the truck will seem to lose power assist on the return to center and be very stiff when i return it by force until i jerk the wheel past center and let it come back the other direction and it seems to regain power assist.
Also, the steering is just generally bump. I have not driven a better condition 2005 to tell the difference but i'm sure this isn't the way it's supposed to be
I am not having any issue with braking force, as of yet. The first winter i got the truck i blew a power steering line that goes from the gear to the cooler, in which direction i don't know. It's been a year and a half since then so not sure that caused any failure.
Before this symptom the pump would whine when on left turns only, no problem turning right if i feel like doing right turns the rest of my days. I guess what i'm getting at is, does this sound like a bad pump? Bad gear? Both?
View 14 Replies
I recently bought an 03 F350. I've noticed on cold starts that it has no power. After about 5 minutes it runs very well. I have not noticed any misfires or smoke and there are no codes thrown. Based on what I have read here, I assumed it was a FICM issue. I just got done testing it and it was at a solid 48v with 1 dip to 46 on engine crank. I'm baffled at this point. The truck literally has no other issues except low power for the first 5 minutes.
View 14 Replies
I have a 2004 f350 with a 03 bullet proofed motor. The truck did not have any power and the turbo wouldn't support until I put a new vgt solenoid in and it ran great for about 3 miles... Stalled doing 65 kinda lacked power while accelerating but got up to speed quick. I pulled over and no start. It is running error code kam on pcm from disconnecting batteries but could this cause the stall and no start? Or should I be looking into icp sensor?
View 2 Replies
I removed all 8 injectors because my truck felt like it had a dead cylinder one morning after I did oil change and filter and fuel filters. Truck ran great the day of the fluid change. The next morning however truck was hard to start no power at all nothing. Felt like a dead cylinder so removed all 8 injectors and ohm them all ohm at 0.4 to 0.5 except number 4 injector it ohm at 0.4 and 0.7 that's not in spec right or am I wrong? Do I need a new solenoid? Keep in mind tho number 5 and 8 injectors had contribution codes but they ohm good. So I'm going to tear the injectors apart and see what's what. But my question is do I need to replace number 4 injector solenoid?
View 3 Replies
I'm new to diesels. I just bought a 2004 F250 with the 6.0 V8. I have the high and low circuit, contribution codes on cylinders 4 and 8. I've only had the truck for a few days but I've been reading a ton. The symptoms are hard start, rough idle/shaking, no power when cold. When it heats up and I'm over 2000 RPM it seems to be just fine. Even when hot and below 2000 RPM it does ok. I've check the FICM. It reads 48V with key on and 48V running. My plan is to do the following:
Change the Fuel Filters
Change the oil filter
Change Air Filter
Change oil with 5-W30 synth and I have both Hot Shot/Rev-X
If that doesn't work, I'll replace the two injectors. How does that sound.
View 14 Replies
I recently purchased a 2011 F350 chassis cab with no bed installed. Have a few questions regarding the exhaust system. When I inspected and drove it noticed some black smoke when under hard acceleration, nothing major though. Other that that the truck drove great. Have not got the truck home yet, a friend is going to pick it up and deliver it in a few days. Based on the visible smoke I was suspicious of the exhaust system but I have no knowledge of what the system is suppose to look like. My experience with diesels and for that matter gas engines is mostly from the days of mechanical fuel injected diesels (70's era farm tractors mostly) and carberated gas engines.
My friend stopped by a local Ford dealer and crawled around under a new 2015 Chassis cab to look and compare to this 2011. It appears that the SCR and DPF are not installed on this truck. Where they would normally be is a section of pipe with a section about 2 feet long that is 6 or 8 inches in diameter. Looking at some threads on this site I'm guessing this is a muffler that has been added since the truck is not loud. There is no DEF tank and all the wiring for sensors that would be attached to the exhaust system appear to be tied off to the frame and not connected to anything. The dealer didn't know the history beyond he purchased it on an auto auction and he installed a new rear end in it. Car Fax shows nothing of concern.
My question is should I now be concerned since have determined much of the exhaust system has been removed? I've read some threads and it appears that the only way this can be done and have the engine run well without any codes etc is if the removal is done with some sort of tune. Is there any way to determine who has done the tune? Will it be an issue when take to a Ford dealer for service?
I know if wanted to put the system back to stock would be large dollars, as long as the system runs well and is reliable I will be happy. The anticipated use of the truck will be to pull gooseneck trailer and will probably not see more than 1000 miles a year towing and 5 to 10k total in a year. I drive with a very light foot seldom ever pressing any vehicle to its limits. If still have the truck in 10 years when retire or at least cut back on my work then it may see more miles.
View 9 Replies
Well, after getting the bed back on my '05 F350, I have been driving it on the road for a few days, but now I have a new problem.
Every once in awhile I get lag off idle for about a second, then the turbo spools and everything is fine. Other times, I step on the accelerator a bit from a stop, and the truck acts like its going to die for a moment, a puff of black smoke, and then the turbo spools and all is back to normal. It a combination of these two problems happens about 3-5 times out of 50 stops a day.
I have a scanguage and everything looks normal and I never get any codes when I check.
View 14 Replies
I have a bone stock 2005 F350 DRW FX4 6.0 Diesel. I've been averaging 10.5 to 14 MPG city. Haven't really done any hiway driving yet.
View 14 Replies
I have 2005 f350 will not shift on the fly. With a vacuum pump it will hold vacuum at both hubs but will not lock up. The seals should be good.
View 11 Replies
