I recently had my injectors changed at Ford and while I was driving it started dumping coolant. If the leak can be cause from the injector replacement or if they didn't put something back together right... 2005 f 350 6.0...
View 14 RepliesIs the A/C condenser pretty simple to replace on the 2006 F350? Replaced the compressor but then noticed the condenser was leaking. Looks simple just wondering if there are any quirks to it.
View 14 RepliesI've been fighting some issues with my 05 f350 6.0 I'm pretty sure I have it narrowed down to a failed central junction box. I have no power to the pcm. I bought a used one off ebay that was supposed to fit my truck but some fuse/relay locations are different. All the plugs on the backside appear to be correct though. Do I need to get a fuse box that is the exact same part number that is currently in my truck? 2C7T-140A067-AN is the part number of the one in my truck. Or can I use the one I bought?
View 9 RepliesMy 2005 F-250 does not have power when the engine is cold. When the engine warms up then it seems fine. I believe that the fuel injectors need replacement. I was told that one cannot get new injectors. They are all re-manufactured. Is this correct?
View 14 RepliesI may have to replace fuel injector #8 on my 2004 6.0. Aside from doing brakes and rotors, I don't have any experience working on my truck.
Side note- this is the second injector to go bad in the past few months. Ford also wanted to replace the HFCM, so I'll be doing that as well.
In the last 300 miles, I have replaced all 8 injectors with rebuilt units. Shortly after assembly I had P0264, P0270 and P0272, so I replaced #2 and #4 injector. When I went to pull the oil rail, the two screws holding the top of the #4 injector were gone and the injector was in half. Easy to say, this was this issue with that one. I am assuming #2 had a coil issue.
After assembly, I am still getting P0272 with a rough idle while cold or hot. It does seem to lessen at higher RPMs.
FICM has less than 300 miles on it. Atlas 40, Ultra mods from ficmrepair.com.
Injector harness is new.
Using AE - Injector buzz test is ok. Power balance shows number #4 with slight issues. I will post screen shots tonight. ICP is always within a few points of desired. It builds in excess of 3,600 at WOT.
I have only driven 10 miles since the assembly.
1) Can air in the system contribute to this code? Should I continue to drive around and reevaluate?
2) Should I send the FICM back to Ed for review?
3) Any other thoughts?
I have a 2006 F-350 4x4 CC LB. I recently had my check engine light come on coincidentally on my way to the auto parts store. Asked them to plug in the scanner and read the code. It had around 20! This truck has 40000 miles on it. All of the codes were dealing with injector voltage being low. All eight cylinders. So I'm thinking ficm is going out. I replaced the batteries shortly after this. I driven it a time or two after this and it started cutting in an out going down the road. Seemed down a few cylinders for a few seconds and pouring black smoke from the tailpipe of a stick truck. Made it home after it did this there times. Stated it up to move it a few days ago. Some white smoke that clears quickly and ran rough for a few, pulled it in gear surged forward and died. I cleaned the EGR valve and re o ringed it. Tested the drivers side pin on the FICM and have 47-48 volts with key on and cranking.
View 4 RepliesI have a 04 F30 4x4 with a sick 6.0 power stroke. It has 230k on the mileage and ran good. I was driving at speed when she started missing like it had lost an injector and loosing power. The RPM's dropped under 1000 so I had to pull over off the highway. When i pulled over and put it in park it shutoff. Tried several times to get to start but after 10 minutes it started up. I drove about 2 miles and it started the same process. This went on 2 more times before I was able to finally limp home the 40 miles.
It never shut off again but ran very poorly. I put a new valve in and when I tried to start it just mad a pound clunking/clacking noise. The repair shop put a starter in it because it had stopped engaging and was going to ruin the fly wheel. I looked at it and it was eaten up pretty bad from trying to get the engine to turn over. So now all it will do is a single clunk and will not turn over. He says it could be a bad injector that flooded a cylinder or blown up in the bottom end. He did take serpentine off and still no go.
My nephew has a 2004 F350 that will crank but will not start. It will build oil pressure on the gauge. There is no injector buzz and no communication through OBD2 port. Is the PCM dead?
View 10 RepliesRecently while changing the oil, I noticed a great deal of white crystals around the Reductant Injector. This is the point where DEF is injected into the exhaust. There is a heat shield around the connection and that shield was moved up by the growing crystals.
The hose that connects to the injector is simply one of those press lock types, i.e., you press on either side of it to remove it, and it simply locks in place by pressing it on the tube. This is the point where it seems to be leaking.
I have been tracking my DEF usage pretty close and I seem to get around 4900 miles from five gallons of DEF. No towing whatsoever, daily commuter 30 miles a day.
It's a 2016 F350 6.7 PS with 12,000 miles.
Been working on a 2005 6.0 with 218kish miles on it. When I got the truck it had a contribution 2 code stored, no check engine light, just could see the code on the code reader.
Truck idled like crap, lacked power, so I replaced the injector. Truck improved but still had a miss, this time it had a stored code of injector 6.
Ordered another injector, got it installed today. Fired the truck up, ran perfectly, drove it around, absolutely 0 issues ran like a dream. Parked it for a few minutes before starting it again to wash it. Rough idle, not horrible, not noticeable. Cylinder 6 contribution code stored again, no check engine light.
So I drove it, I drove the hell out of it for about 15 minutes with the AC at full blast, WOT, etc etc. By the time I was done, truck was back to running smoothly.
Just walked outside after dinner to see if it would still perform well, or if it would idle poorly again, sure enough, 6 contribution, rough idle.
I just changed fuel filters with OEM, air filter is new. I just cleaned the EGR valve- although maybe it's not clean enough?? Oil change is tomorrow (had to wait for the filter to get shipped in).
I'm at a little bit of a loss on how to cure this miss, unless it's possibly an oil pressure issue from bad/old oil causing it?
Will a 05 injector harness work on a early 04?
View 1 RepliesI have a problem with my 2005 F250 6.0 with about 156,000 give or take. Started having a problem a few weeks ago started missing and fuel mileage went south and had it scanned. Codes pulled was P0279 and P0281, I was told probably #7 injector bad so I replaced it cleared the codes and Cranked right up no problems until a few moments later the truck started acting up again. Run smooth than rough idle, smooth, rough idle. Same codes! Tested the FICM while on the truck, it showed like 47.5 volts before cranking and 48 volts when cranked.
I have tested the Ohms between the Injector harness end and FICM end. Pin #2,3,4 all showed 0.3 Ohms, #1 did not even register like 0.L on my Ohmmeter. Took FICM all the way off and it made a rattling sound inside, took it apart and about 4 pieces of what a buddy says where resisters. SO I guess my question would be , is FICM bad? Did something short it out, and/or is the number 1 injector wire bad. Plus the when I took the FICM off the back 2 bolts where loose, so I guess the FICM was bouncing up and down maybe. The front 2 where tight.
What is the best way to change the cam sensor on these engines? I believe mine is leaking oil based on some general wetness below it and oil dripping off of the bell housing but I can't find an angle where I can see it clearly let alone replace it. Have to remove the power steering pump?
View 3 RepliesSo this '06 F350 is blowing fluid from the steering pump fitting when you move steering wheel to either side all the way(lock). Is the internal o-ring blown in the fitting? Do these have the teflon seal at the pump? Pretty new to the 6.0 scene. Got a new line ordered.
View 6 RepliesThis past Monday I was finally able to pick up a 2012 F350 dually and over the weekend I was able to do an EGR and DPF delete and I come to find out while under the truck that it has an oil leak I looked under the hood and it seems that there is oil around the turbo and after the test drive there is a LightStream of oil coming down the exhaust.
Another question is that I have read about the possible problem is that early build 2011's have that's why I chose to look for a 2012 so I didn't even consider looking at the build date when getting it and I come to find out it was November 2011 and this truck has a plastic oil pan should I be worried about The possibility of this engine taking a dump on me and if so what can I do to prevent it?
I recently was informed by my local mechanic that fuel was leaking into my coolant. He said I had a cracked head based on this and it would give soon. Well, he was right, and now I need to do a head job. I found new heads, but would like to know how many book hours this should take before I proceed. He gives me a wide range of time, and don't want to get taken advantage of.
View 4 RepliesI have an 04 f-350 that I did an EGR delete, new Ford oil cooler, new radiator (not ford), new thermostat (not ford), coolant filter, glow plugs and harness, MBRP theoretical 4in downpipe (was 3.5 to converter) flushed cooling system with lots of tap water before the delete, replaced coolant with Cat 1 ELC and distilled water, fresh T6 5W-40 and filter, several weeks ago. Was troubleshooting a wireing problem and found what looks like oil sludge in the degass bottle while under the hood.
Possible that while doing EGR delete I clipped a gasket? Truck runs great, no smoke out the tail pipe. There is what looks like about a cup floating on top the coolant. Oil level is down about a 1/2 quart and clean, no water in it. Where do I start looking?
I'm about to replace my IPR and my thermostat, and just watched a video saying after replacing the thermostat you need to bleed the air out of the system to get rid of air pockets so you don't overheat the engine. Is this true and if so how do you do it? Also, how much coolant do I need to drain before taking off the upper radiator hose?
View 2 RepliesI just had my oil cooler and EGR cooler replaced, and I'm now consider doing a coolant flush with Restore/Restore+ to ensure the coolant system is clean. I know this might be backwards and perhaps should have done the flush first, but schedule and such did not allow. I do have a coolant filter.
View 5 RepliesTook my '11 F350 CC 6.7 Lariat with 31k miles on it into the dealer to have the tranny fluid leak looked at. I noticed this leak a few weeks ago as the bell housing was damp with fluid and the bolts heads on the underside of the poly engine oil pan were pooled with fluid. It is a very slow leak as I have parked it for 3 days and there were no drips of fluid on the ground, just collecting on the grid like pattern on the oil pan. Checked Fluid level and it is also full.
Anyway, the dealer put dye in the tranny fluid and told me to drive it for a few days. I took it back in on Monday and called this morning for an update. The mechanic informed that they ordered a new torque converter and some other parts to be "proactive" because he believes the TC is the issue. I asked if the cab would have to be pulled and they informed that all the work could be done from underneath. Glad I noticed this before the B2B warranty expired because this would have been expensive. I will be THOROUGHLY inspecting the entire vehicle from top to bottom before I hit 36k.