Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2005 F250 Will Shut Off After About 20 - 30 Minutes Of Driving
Dec 22, 2015
Been chasing my tail and can't figure out an electrical issue. My issue is that I'll drive for about 20-30 min and the truck will shut off while driving. I'll pull off the road, let it sit for 10-20 min (cool down) and It will fire back up and go for another 15 min or so. Sometimes it will glitch/wig out when i try to start or not start....
I've replaced the following and monitored everything on a scanner.
-cam sensor
-crank sensor
-2 new batteries
-flashed the ecu
05' F250 6.0 King Ranch 4X4
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I have a 2005 f250 6.0 diesel. I have changed the 2 fuel filters, fuel pump, sending unit (was broke off in tank )and installed the blue spring fuel pressure regulator kit. My truck will run for a few minutes loose fuel and kill. Could this be a sensor or computer problem
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Started my 2005 f250 powerstroke, idle about 15 min and died like I turned key off. Hooked up scan guage had no flp, fmp or syc ipr and icp was good. Checked ficm relay and fuses and all checked good. Next morning went out and it started flp, fmp, sycall good. Idled about 1 hr and died again same bad readings. Messed with relays and wiring to ficm, it started and died after 2 min. No start again, next morning still no flp, fmp. Went out again in afternoon and everything was good again, I did nothing to it from am to pm, was loading my pistol they shoot horses don't they. I have new batterys, I changed the ficm power card last summer for low fmp. When it is running everything looks and sounds good no miss.
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I have a 2005 f350 6.0 and it has a startup kit installed. When I start by using the key works perfect. But won't shut off by key! I have to use the stop button on key fob to kill the engine. I'm thinking relay might be stuck? And the relay on start up kit is working? Key removed it doesn't diesel down, it runs like key is still in.
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Just to give you a run down on my truck. It's a 06 F-350 4x4 supercrew 6.0 with 78,994 miles. The trucks has been studded with Apr and aftermarket head gasket, Powermax turbo with a wicked wheel, RCD EGR delete kit, 5" turbo back MBRP exhaust, Driven Deisel regulated fuel return system, high REV valve spring kit, EBT sensor, 58volt swamps diesel FICM, edge evolution, within the last 4000 miles New oil cooler, crank sensor, cam sensor, IPR valve, ICP, batteries and lift pump. I think I'm missing a couple things but that's the layout.
Now for my problems recently took the truck to Florida from Illinois towing a 8500# boat. Before I left I had the oil cooler changed, Rotella T6 5w40 ,New filters And 2 bottles of REVX. The try k didn't miss a beat on the 1300 miles trek down. It sat for 3 days before coming back up lite truck. I was gonna drive straight thru and with 1100 miles down and 200 to go the truck acted like it was running out of fuel and died at 90mph. Fuel Gage read 1/2 tank to go.
After letting it site a 1/2 hr it finally fired back up and drove 5 miles before doing it again. This went on 3 more times. I even limped it to fill up the tank thinking the gauge was bad. Nope did it again And called for a tow truck. This was in mid october and 20 miles ago. Since then I've replaced fuel filters, lift pump, IPR, ICP, cam and crank sensors, sent the FICM in to have tested, replaced batteries. No the problem is worse. It Now has created a serious miss when it's cold till 90 then it Idles smooth but keeps dying on me like it did when it was towed.
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I have a 99 F 250 7.3. It runs fine at idle even for a long time. When I drive around the block a couple of times it will start chugging and lose power and shut off. I have been mixing fryer oil with the diesel. I changed the fuel filter, oil change, crank sensor and fuel pump. I added 15 gallons of diesel and diesel treatment. Pulled fuel filter and bowel is full I'm not sure where to look next.
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So today I was driving down the highway and my engine shut off. No sputter or any thing I had just filled the tank. I tried to start it and it wouldn't start. It's been hitting a dead spot at around 3000 rpm like its not getting enough fuel or something. Right now I'm thinking it's an ipr valve but would like to know if what was the cause and how did you fix it...
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So I am out of town about 120 miles from home on a job. I was driving down the mountain road to the store and my tuck just shut down. Lucky for me I was able to get into a turn out. So I try to start the truck and it will not fire. I check for codes I am getting p2614, p2617 so I was able to clear the codes and get back to the house I am staying in. What is going on with my tuck. Oh ya the code did not come back on in the 15 min drive to the house. Also just finished up doing a y pipe and my egr o ring so I and the intake and all that off.
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I have a 04 late model F250. I have done the EGR delete, oil cooler upgrade, and blue spring upgrade. I have a SCT tuner but truck is currently set to stock.
My issue is it starts fine runs good but dies after about 2 minutes. No stutter or stumble. It acts as if some one just turns the key off. I have to let it sit for about 2 minutes and then it will restart. If I try any sooner then it just cranks but will not fire. This started about three weeks ago. At that time I would be driving and it would just die. I could slip into neutral turn key and it would fire right back up and I could continue down the road. As time has gone by the issue has reoccurred more often and now I have to let it sit for about 2 minutes to get it to start again but then as stated only runs for about 2 minutes and then dies again.
I have a scangauge and here are the readings I can get.
FICM main power is 47.5 - 48 volts at all times = good
FICM Logic power is 10.5 - 11.5 volts at all times = ???
IPR is 33% at idle = good Scangauge does not react fast enough to get info at startup.
ICP voltage KOEO 0.25 volts
Start 1.33 volts
Idle 1.11 - 1.13 volts dips briefly to 0.96 volts
ICP pressure Start 900+
Idle 830ish
Sync between CAMshaft and Crankshaft is 1 = good
Have not gotten fitting to do fuel pressure test yet.
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Just got this injectors done. Filled the tank up. Drove for 1/4 of a tank. Went to leave out yesterday. Made it out of my subdivision and down the road 3 miles or so. I was going 55 when the truck stalled. I tried to start the ignition it would turn over, but wouldn't catch to stay running. I did this at least 8 times. Friend came with Ether. Tried 3 separate times, truck started going dead. So i was about to give up... Tried it 1 last time, it fired up like a champ!
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I have a 03 f250 6.0 had it for 2 years never had a problem. Last week I went out and started it to warm it's up as it is cold out here and it started fine I then noticed some thing hanging down under the dash so I started tucking it up under there and it arced and all gauges shut off and the truck shut off. So I took the panel down and it was the biometric pressure sensor that was hanging and the previous owner had a remote start on there that I never knew about and 2 wires on the sensor were stripped and not taped as well as some others. I checked all fuses and relays all working good tested fuse box and everything good there, replaced bio sensor and still nothing turn the key and try to start it and it does nothing injectors, don't precycle fuel pump doesn't run and starter doesn't kick in. I jumped starter off the wire on fender and it turns over but still doesn't start. Also I think it's the ecu but don't want to buy another one if I'm not sure if that's the problem.
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My truck is an 02 F250 7.3 with 280,000+ miles on it, so I wouldn't be surprised if I might have a number of things going wrong. It runs pretty good, but is still far from 100%, at least up to my standards. So the problem has been going on for the last two or three weeks and got worse today, and there were a few things leading up to it as well. I'll start off with the first thing that happened that I think might be related. It was about 6 months ago, my buddy and I were putting my new headlights in.
It was parked in his garage and we backed it out a little bit to try and adjust them. It was sitting there idling for a minute or two and just shut off or almost stalled out. Tried to restart it and it wouldn't start, tried multiple times to no avail. It acted similar to when I had glow plug troubles when I first got the truck, it would just crank and crank, but never actually kick over and start, along with putting white smoke out the exhaust. Ended up waiting about a half hour and then the truck fired right up with no problems after that, so I didn't think much of it.
Then fast forward to last week to when something similar happened. Started it up after sitting for a few days, started right up, idled for a few seconds and then just shut off. Started it back up ran for a second and died again. Tried a third time with the same result. Fourth time fired right up again and stayed running, let it run for a few minutes and was fine. Also along with this, there was a bad squeaking coming from the front of the truck, like what a belt would sound like. I have recently replaced the belt because it was squeaking and actually got chewed up and almost shredded completely apart.
So not sure why it is squeaking again, but not sure if this could be related or not. Then took it back to my dorm room to get my stuff, and then made it the hour or so drive home from school, without issue. Even went to a few stores before I went home, and shut the truck off and started it back up multiple times, again with no issues. When I drove back earlier this week it was fine until I got there and put it in park. It idled for few seconds and then cut out for a second, but then idled back up and continued to run fine. It has done that a few times as well. So it will do it on a cold start or after already fully warmed up.
Then it got worse today. Again had trouble starting it cold, same as what I explained early. Except second time cranking it wouldn't start at all, then on the third crank it started up and stayed running. But on the drive home is when it got worse. About 5 or 10 minutes into my drive, was just cruising doing at about 45 or 50, and truck just shut off, died/stalled out. It cut out and shut off for a second or two and then started itself back up and continued on like nothing happened. It scared the crap out of me the first time it happened, I was waiting for something like that to happen, but still wasn't quite ready for it.
The truck acted just like it would before you start it, with the key on, dash lights worked and the radio still worked. It did this 4 more times in similar ways, would die and then start back up, at various speeds and at roughly 5 or so minute intervals. I decided to just keep going as long as the truck would start and stay running, hoping to make it home. It did it a fifth time and this time the truck completely shut off and wouldn't restart itself. It was hard to see, as I was watching a few different things at one time, but I think it tried to restart, I noticed the tach bounce between 200-400 RPMS and then die. So I had to pull over and then restart it, fired up and drove fine. That was about half way home, and I made it the rest of the way home without any more problems.
So obviously I'm wondering what would be causing the truck to do this? I've done some reading and have a couple ideas, but not really for sure on anything. I was thinking maybe the CPS, I think it can cause a no start issue. Could ICP or the ICP sensor have something to do with it? I was also thinking maybe something fuel related, such as fuel pressure or a bad fuel pump. Any of those sound to be on the right track?
I have the torque pro app, but not exactly sure how to use it yet, and also just got access to my Uncle's Snap-on scanner, so I ran some tests and pulled some codes. How to more utilize these tools in diagnostics. I did get a few codes, but I'm not exactly sure how they might be related. The codes are pulled are:
P0470 Exhaust Pressure Sensor Circuit Fault. Just cleaned that out as well as the tube about a year ago, but I guess could be clogged again or has gone bad.
P1274 Cylinder 4 (E) High to Low Side Open. Did some reading and figured out that this could be UVCH related. At the same time, about a year ago, did new injector O-rings as well as all new Motorcraft UVCH's, so can't imagine that one is bad. Or that one could be loose, I would have guessed it would have happened more when I first did them, not a year later, but who knows.
Also pulled P1876 T-Case 2wd Solenoid Circuit Fault. Not sure if this is related at all, but also not sure what it means either. I read that it could be ESOF system related, which I do have, but I have manual lockout hubs, so maybe that's why it throws the code.
Also a few things that may or may not be related, but I think worth noting. Ever since I've had the truck the check engine light will pop on and off sometimes. It will do it on a cold start or, when I first start driving and its not fully warmed up yet. It does it most when the engine is still cold, and it almost never comes on once the truck is fully warmed up, but has came on and off more frequently lately. When driving, it will only stay on for a few seconds and more often when I'm lugging the engine or at lower rpms, and will commonly shut off if I let off the throttle.
I don't think it really comes on at higher rpms. I also have a slight oil leak in the valley of the engine, seems to maybe be coming from the front of the motor. Nothing too serious, leaves a small puddle where I park, loses enough to be at the add mark, a little before an oil change. Changed the oil about 1500 miles ago and have been able to notice a slight drop in oil level. Also I have changed the fuel filter in the last 500 miles.
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I just bought 4 new tires and since then the Tire Sensor light comes on after I drive about 20 minutes. The place I bought the tires from has used their tool twice now and it is still happening. Could they have done something to have made this happen because I had no problem before they changed the tires...
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So a few day ago my truck shut down while driving. I posted up and checked the ficm harness as suggested. Things were a bit lose so I zip tied my harness around the ficm. Thought it was all fixed and test drove it and it shut down again. I tried to start it a few times and my ICP was a tad low about 450 ,I have a brand new ICP and harness. Checked my scan gauge and I have code p2614. I cleared the codes and the truck started right up. I need to get this sorted out I was supposed bro go home tomorrow from working out of town all week about 100 miles from home...
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My friends 2004 6.0 f250 has 280000 miles on it and it runs perfect "did" until I tuned it with my sct tuner to run a looney tune so he could see what it was like. The truck started he revved it up to 3'000 rpm then when it returned to idle it acted like someone shut the key off. The high pressure oil system is new and has 700 psi and the icp is good also the ipr. The truck Is not getting any fuel at all, no smoke from cranking at all. It is returned to stock and is still being difficult. It has fuel I checked the upper fuel filter, it has enough oil, and it also has a good motor just don't fire. Why?
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2005 f350 6.0. I was driving my truck and it seemed like someone had shut the fuel off to truck ! i had it towed to the house and was doing research and watch a video on checking the ficm with a volt meter..when i touch the positive post from meter the ficm started smoking and sizzzling...but back tothe truck when i try to start it i have no pre warm up sounds coming from the truck and the truck just turns over strong ..no start...i was going to replace the ficm but didnt want to spend the money to fry another if that is not my problem..also the # 5 fuse under the hood keeps blowing.
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My 2005 STX 4.6 fuel pump crashed a couple of months ago. A couple of days after having it replaced I started having hard/rough starting problems accompanied by a 0300 and 0301 code. I reset the codes several times and they only come back during the 3rd or 4th hard start, never while driving. The hard starts occur after the engine is shut off for more than a few minutes after driving. I have replaced the plugs, #1 COP, remaining COP boots, Cam Pos Sensor, Fuel pump drive module and had and FI. Also had the fuel pump replaced again on warranty thinking maybe a bad check valve. Again...it worked perfectly for a day and now I'm back to square one. Haven't gotten any codes YET but its only been a day. Bad injector? EGR?
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I have a 2005 Ford f250 Diesel 4x4 with - unfortunately - the crappy 6.0 engine. Yesterday my Daughter parked in the yard and this morning the truck not only will not start but will not even turn over. I thought maybe the batteries were dead but that is not he case. When you turn the switch on you can hear the pump start up but it will not turn over? All the lights come on and the bell comes on when you open the door and the dashboard lights work but the thing will just not turn over. I am assuming this may be some type of electrical issue or something but whatever the problem is it just came out of the blue. Ford imo should have recalled this engine.
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I have an 05 f250 with 109k. Recently I turned off my truck, waited about 45 min or so and upon returning the truck would just crank and crank with no fire. After waiting about 4hrs the truck started right up like nothing was wrong.
Yesterday it did it to me again. This time I have it a small shot of starting fluid and it fired right up and ran like a champ all the way to the shop..... I got the call today from the mechanic saying I have 5 injectors that are bad, 2 glow plugs and harnesses. His quote was 2400 out the door.
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I had this truck for two months no problems yesterday went on a small trip about 50 miles in on ,the hwy. I start seeing some smoke and then no power turned off & on engine several times a little hard starting no power at all I put the pedal to the floor It barely moves ran into another super d. guy he said fuel filters , I turned around and crawled back home and changed fuel filters still no power. no codes "don't no where to start".
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I got a problem with my Ford F250 6.0 Diesel. The truck got a new HPOP but still wont start. ICP show everything between 15 und 75 PSI, it raises to 75 PSI max during cranking. The IPR shows 84,75% during cranking.
We get the code P0270 and P2285 in exchange but never together. We already checked the FICM but it looks good on the inside. I now ordered a new ICP sensor....
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