I've got an '05 F-250 starts and dies numerous times, have to rev throttle to keep running then it stays running. I've replaced FICM, PCM, Eng. harness, IPR, CMP, what else is there to do?
View 3 RepliesI have a 04 late model F250. I have done the EGR delete, oil cooler upgrade, and blue spring upgrade. I have a SCT tuner but truck is currently set to stock.
My issue is it starts fine runs good but dies after about 2 minutes. No stutter or stumble. It acts as if some one just turns the key off. I have to let it sit for about 2 minutes and then it will restart. If I try any sooner then it just cranks but will not fire. This started about three weeks ago. At that time I would be driving and it would just die. I could slip into neutral turn key and it would fire right back up and I could continue down the road. As time has gone by the issue has reoccurred more often and now I have to let it sit for about 2 minutes to get it to start again but then as stated only runs for about 2 minutes and then dies again.
I have a scangauge and here are the readings I can get.
FICM main power is 47.5 - 48 volts at all times = good
FICM Logic power is 10.5 - 11.5 volts at all times = ???
IPR is 33% at idle = good Scangauge does not react fast enough to get info at startup.
ICP voltage KOEO 0.25 volts
Start 1.33 volts
Idle 1.11 - 1.13 volts dips briefly to 0.96 volts
ICP pressure Start 900+
Idle 830ish
Sync between CAMshaft and Crankshaft is 1 = good
Have not gotten fitting to do fuel pressure test yet.
Got a late 2004 6.0 that runs excellent. When it is cold (as in not running for half a day, not ambient temp) it dies as if the ignition gets turned off. You can start it right back up no problem. It has been slowly getting worse. You maybe have to start it back up 5-10 times before you can get going in the morning. Also you can hear a random click with ignition just in on position as if there is a connection issue in the dash and cuts ign in and out that I think may be the problem.
I swapped all the relays to different spots to try them. I don't think it's wiring because it does it when cold then works when warm. Guy thinks plugging truck block heater so maybe it work better somewhat. New CMP, CKP, FICM, and it doesn't make a diff. So it's baffling to me. It's obviously electrical and works better when truck is warmed.
My truck is an 02 F250 7.3 with 280,000+ miles on it, so I wouldn't be surprised if I might have a number of things going wrong. It runs pretty good, but is still far from 100%, at least up to my standards. So the problem has been going on for the last two or three weeks and got worse today, and there were a few things leading up to it as well. I'll start off with the first thing that happened that I think might be related. It was about 6 months ago, my buddy and I were putting my new headlights in.
It was parked in his garage and we backed it out a little bit to try and adjust them. It was sitting there idling for a minute or two and just shut off or almost stalled out. Tried to restart it and it wouldn't start, tried multiple times to no avail. It acted similar to when I had glow plug troubles when I first got the truck, it would just crank and crank, but never actually kick over and start, along with putting white smoke out the exhaust. Ended up waiting about a half hour and then the truck fired right up with no problems after that, so I didn't think much of it.
Then fast forward to last week to when something similar happened. Started it up after sitting for a few days, started right up, idled for a few seconds and then just shut off. Started it back up ran for a second and died again. Tried a third time with the same result. Fourth time fired right up again and stayed running, let it run for a few minutes and was fine. Also along with this, there was a bad squeaking coming from the front of the truck, like what a belt would sound like. I have recently replaced the belt because it was squeaking and actually got chewed up and almost shredded completely apart.
So not sure why it is squeaking again, but not sure if this could be related or not. Then took it back to my dorm room to get my stuff, and then made it the hour or so drive home from school, without issue. Even went to a few stores before I went home, and shut the truck off and started it back up multiple times, again with no issues. When I drove back earlier this week it was fine until I got there and put it in park. It idled for few seconds and then cut out for a second, but then idled back up and continued to run fine. It has done that a few times as well. So it will do it on a cold start or after already fully warmed up.
Then it got worse today. Again had trouble starting it cold, same as what I explained early. Except second time cranking it wouldn't start at all, then on the third crank it started up and stayed running. But on the drive home is when it got worse. About 5 or 10 minutes into my drive, was just cruising doing at about 45 or 50, and truck just shut off, died/stalled out. It cut out and shut off for a second or two and then started itself back up and continued on like nothing happened. It scared the crap out of me the first time it happened, I was waiting for something like that to happen, but still wasn't quite ready for it.
The truck acted just like it would before you start it, with the key on, dash lights worked and the radio still worked. It did this 4 more times in similar ways, would die and then start back up, at various speeds and at roughly 5 or so minute intervals. I decided to just keep going as long as the truck would start and stay running, hoping to make it home. It did it a fifth time and this time the truck completely shut off and wouldn't restart itself. It was hard to see, as I was watching a few different things at one time, but I think it tried to restart, I noticed the tach bounce between 200-400 RPMS and then die. So I had to pull over and then restart it, fired up and drove fine. That was about half way home, and I made it the rest of the way home without any more problems.
So obviously I'm wondering what would be causing the truck to do this? I've done some reading and have a couple ideas, but not really for sure on anything. I was thinking maybe the CPS, I think it can cause a no start issue. Could ICP or the ICP sensor have something to do with it? I was also thinking maybe something fuel related, such as fuel pressure or a bad fuel pump. Any of those sound to be on the right track?
I have the torque pro app, but not exactly sure how to use it yet, and also just got access to my Uncle's Snap-on scanner, so I ran some tests and pulled some codes. How to more utilize these tools in diagnostics. I did get a few codes, but I'm not exactly sure how they might be related. The codes are pulled are:
P0470 Exhaust Pressure Sensor Circuit Fault. Just cleaned that out as well as the tube about a year ago, but I guess could be clogged again or has gone bad.
P1274 Cylinder 4 (E) High to Low Side Open. Did some reading and figured out that this could be UVCH related. At the same time, about a year ago, did new injector O-rings as well as all new Motorcraft UVCH's, so can't imagine that one is bad. Or that one could be loose, I would have guessed it would have happened more when I first did them, not a year later, but who knows.
Also pulled P1876 T-Case 2wd Solenoid Circuit Fault. Not sure if this is related at all, but also not sure what it means either. I read that it could be ESOF system related, which I do have, but I have manual lockout hubs, so maybe that's why it throws the code.
Also a few things that may or may not be related, but I think worth noting. Ever since I've had the truck the check engine light will pop on and off sometimes. It will do it on a cold start or, when I first start driving and its not fully warmed up yet. It does it most when the engine is still cold, and it almost never comes on once the truck is fully warmed up, but has came on and off more frequently lately. When driving, it will only stay on for a few seconds and more often when I'm lugging the engine or at lower rpms, and will commonly shut off if I let off the throttle.
I don't think it really comes on at higher rpms. I also have a slight oil leak in the valley of the engine, seems to maybe be coming from the front of the motor. Nothing too serious, leaves a small puddle where I park, loses enough to be at the add mark, a little before an oil change. Changed the oil about 1500 miles ago and have been able to notice a slight drop in oil level. Also I have changed the fuel filter in the last 500 miles.
Have a 2004 6.0 that stalled out while driving. Wouldn't restart. Took readings this morning. ICP was very low (below 100) and IPR was at 85. After a few times of taking readings I could get the truck to start up with an ICP reading over 500 but IPR was still at 85. When it did start up it would almost immediately die. Does this sound like an IPR problem or a oil pressure problem?
View 5 RepliesMy truck died on the way home the other night. After pulling over it started right up but died three more times on the way home. Changed fuel filters, cps sensor which wasn't bad when tested, checked fuel pressure (60 psi), cleaned egr valve, fcim has 48 volts, batteries have 12 volts. Tried unplugging egr valve and icp sensor. Truck will start with icp unplugged . Ipr, stand pipes and dummy plugs were replaced last year when I purchased truck. Truck will run in park fine no issues idled normal, builds rpms and boost. Put it in drive when it gets warm rough idle and dies but starts right back up evertime. When truck doesn't die it has no power.
View 10 RepliesTruck sputtered and dies and will not crank again. Changed fuel filters and primed them still won't start. Tried the yellow with blue line wire to battery still will not crank. Checked fuses all are good. Batteries are good.
View 9 RepliesSo my recently purchased 2005 f350 has an abnormal long crank. I searched all the internet and everything pointed to STC fitting. Well I knew I had some other things I wanted to knock out so I ended up buying an update kit from sinister diesel. It included an updated fitting, new degas cap, updared turbo oil feed and return lines, blue spring update, and "dummy" tubes or something like that.
During the last few days I have removed the turbo, and finally got to the hpop. As I was removing the turbo I thought I might have the updated lines as there was no braided area in the feed tube. Sure enough I pulled the hpop and I have the one piece fitting. So now that I have wasted all this time removing all this stuff for no reason I still don't know what is causing my long crank. I am going to probably install the new fitting and lines anyway but where do I go from here?
My 2011 F250 6.7 started throwing multiple codes a couple of weeks ago. I cleared them but they all came back at the same time. What these are pointing to? I'm assuming they're all related?
P0402 Exhaust gas flow excessive detection
P1249 Wastegate control valve performance
P0471 Exhaust pressure sensor A circuit range/performance
It throws 9 codes total, the three listed above, 3 times each.
It just started to die on him lately. Doesn't matter if he is driving or idling. When it dies doesnt sputter or anything. Won't crank up until next day and if it does start only runs for 5 min or so. Checked ficm 48.5 volts. Ipr while cranking is at 48% icp is about 1200 while cranking. The dash oil pressure or rpm gauge does not move but when I hook up my ids it shows 180 rpm. Changed fuel filters. New oil. Does fill up oil canister if I hold the drane button down. Getting fuel. Thought maybe ipr but thought I would check with you all. Unplugging the icp doesn't work. 03 motor with 180k miles.
View 9 RepliesI am looking for answers on a 2006 F250 with a 6.0, at a little over 200,000 miles. Currently I have taken it to two separate dealerships in the area with absolutely no results. The truck drives fine, starts fine, and for the most part, runs great. Except when it dies. It dies with no warning, at anytime. Warm, hot, cold, on the interstate, back road, driveway, where ever. It doesn't stutter, miss or signal, just quits running. Both dealerships have kept it for weeks, and driven it daily, and of course, then it never skips a beat. No codes have showed up that would cause the stall, and they are baffled.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2005 f350 king ranch,I have a kinda weird problem.the truck starts up and runs great as long as I let it get to normal temp.but if the motor is cold it will idle fine but if I goto put it in gear it just dies.sounds like tc is locking but I don't get any codes.
View 9 RepliesSo pulling my trailer and 4x4 and the truck dies without any other symptoms. No check engine light all other electrical remains working. This happened 6 times this trip always while pulling a grade but only after the truck has been running for a few hours. Each time, no warning and once the truck has set for 5 to 10 minutes it start up like normal. The longer i let it set the longer I can run before it does it again. ICP is 550ish at idle, 200ish while cranking. Check the FICM before the trip and it was at 47.5 to 48.5v key on engine off and running. STC, stand pipes, dummy plugs, ball cups have all been done.
View 10 RepliesI'm posting this for my neighbor who has a F250 that's 8 years old. He has replaced many parts, engine from what I know but now when he starts the truck it starts fine but as soon as he starts the truck, the brakes lock up. He can't move it. He hasn't had the chance to move it because the brakes lock as soon as the truck starts. It starts fine and idles fine but can't move because the brakes are locked. Tomorrow the tow truck will haul it to the ford dealership so they can look at it and run the diagnosis computer on it.
View 4 RepliesI just bought an 05 F350 and it starts fine when cold but after I drive it a while will not start even after sitting for up to an hour (overnight cold start fires right up). I replaced 1 battery and alternator and it started up right after install but after driving for a while still have the problem - cranks fine but will not start.
Buddy of mine has the same truck (just a 250) and had this same problem recently and had to replace the High Pressure Oil Pump, which was super expensive! This is my first diesel truck and it runs like a champ (once it starts!)
I have an 03 f250 that i think is getting air in the fuel line when it sits. It turns over starts and immediately shuts off. Then i have to crank it for a minute or so before it will start. After that it is good all day. Next day it might sputter on start but stays on. More than a day it shuts off immediately and needs cranking for a minute...
View 13 RepliesI'm having an issue with the truck not staying idle after cold start up. The truck will turn over and start right away (not even 2 second crank) but immediately dies. The throttle will not work at low RPM. When I start the truck, it will instantly rev high, the revs will drop low, it will try to compensate and rev high again, then it will immediately die.
If the RPMs are under under 2.5k, the truck will immediately stall and die. When I attempt to use the throttle under that RPM, it will not work. No matter how much I depress it, the engine will instantly cut and stall out. It will not attempt to deliver fuel. The only way I can get the truck started is if I rev the engine high and hold it. I need to hold the truck at 2.5k+ RPM for atleast 30 seconds. It generally takes me about 5 tries to finally get it running (mainly due to the throttle immediately cutting out and I have to 'catch' and hold it.) After that, there is no sign or issue. The truck will start immediately back up after it's been running for a couple minutes.
CEL: MAP sensor (0069?) -- Sensor is spotless. Harness looks fine. I replaced the injectors, both batteries, and the alternator this summer. It doesn't sound to be any these either as the truck sounds extremely healthy and immediately turns over.
A while back my 05' f350 6.0 was having rough starts and an erratic idle. It died coming up to a stop sign it started back up after 2 cranks and then it did that same on the way home. The next day leaving work it wouldn't start. I knew i had a couple injectors on the way out so i decided it was time to replace all 8 upon tearing it down i noticed my oil cooler was leaking so i figured it was time to rebuild that and finally do the egr delete that i had been wanting to do. well i put it all back together and got a no start.
The dash gauge on my oil pressure is reading normal when i cranked it so i went and bought a scangauge2 to read the icp its hitting 1500psi when i crank it. The ipr% is reading good. But my ficm main power is at 26v with the key on then it drop to 14v while cranking and eventually down to about 9v. Its never at the 48v that its suppose to be at. The scan gauge is also showing that my ficm sync=0. Would the sync be showing 0 since the ficm is bad? My batteries are fully charged and i have both of them on the charger while I am cranking it.
I am lost on what I need to do with my 2005 6.0. Last summer it started giving me trouble once in a while starting. I turn the key on and wait for the wait to start light to go out. When it goes out, turn the key and it starts, most of the time. Last summer I went to start it the same way, only it cranked and did not start. I turned the key off, back on and cycled the wait to start light again and turned to the start position, it started right up. Whenever it would act up I just turn the key off then back on and it starts right up. Usually on the second try, but lately it has taken 3 or more tries. I am not finding any real pattern to when it wont start.
When it does not start I can crank on the starter until the battery dies and it wont even think about starting. Turn the key off and back on, it will start.
Another thing I have noticed, when I crank the engine I can hear a clicking from under the hood right before it starts. I think it must have something to do with the injectors. I will crank the engine a few seconds, hear the clicking then it starts. If I don't hear the clicking it will not start, so when it doesn't want to start I also do not hear the clicking sound.
The other day I started it, drove 5 or 6 blocks and shut it off. After 20 minutes or so went to leave. I had to cycle the key 4 or 5 times off and back on before it decided to start. It is getting worse, doing it more frequently, and taking several times of key off and back on to get it going. Where should I start looking to find this problem?
I have a 2005 Ford f250 Diesel 4x4 with - unfortunately - the crappy 6.0 engine. Yesterday my Daughter parked in the yard and this morning the truck not only will not start but will not even turn over. I thought maybe the batteries were dead but that is not he case. When you turn the switch on you can hear the pump start up but it will not turn over? All the lights come on and the bell comes on when you open the door and the dashboard lights work but the thing will just not turn over. I am assuming this may be some type of electrical issue or something but whatever the problem is it just came out of the blue. Ford imo should have recalled this engine.
View 14 RepliesI have an 05 f250 with 109k. Recently I turned off my truck, waited about 45 min or so and upon returning the truck would just crank and crank with no fire. After waiting about 4hrs the truck started right up like nothing was wrong.
Yesterday it did it to me again. This time I have it a small shot of starting fluid and it fired right up and ran like a champ all the way to the shop..... I got the call today from the mechanic saying I have 5 injectors that are bad, 2 glow plugs and harnesses. His quote was 2400 out the door.