2005 ford f250 6.0 Started making this noise from front about a month ago, can't figure out what it is. Only happens when letting off accelerator or changing from P - D. The truck acts normal, seems to be louder when the truck is warm.
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So, I'm slowly but surely eliminating a terribly shaky front end on my 2002 F-250 7.3L 4x4. First was a new carrier joint on the front drive shaft. Didn't work much, but the shop said the darn thing was falling apart. Next thing I did was new wheel bearings and manual hubs. Less vibration for sure. But the last remaining issue, in terms of vibration, is that when I let go of the Accelerator going at any speed above 60 MPH, it makes a horrible horrible noise, and I could feel a vibration. It shakes the whole truck, but I can very noticeably feel it directly in the gas pedal. It's really only an issue during deceleration. What could it be??? Drive shaft U-joints? Torque Converter? Something else in the Front End? Something in the engine even?? I don't exactly have the funds to tackle every possible solution.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2005 Ford f250 Diesel 4x4 with - unfortunately - the crappy 6.0 engine. Yesterday my Daughter parked in the yard and this morning the truck not only will not start but will not even turn over. I thought maybe the batteries were dead but that is not he case. When you turn the switch on you can hear the pump start up but it will not turn over? All the lights come on and the bell comes on when you open the door and the dashboard lights work but the thing will just not turn over. I am assuming this may be some type of electrical issue or something but whatever the problem is it just came out of the blue. Ford imo should have recalled this engine.
View 14 RepliesI have an 05 f250 with 109k. Recently I turned off my truck, waited about 45 min or so and upon returning the truck would just crank and crank with no fire. After waiting about 4hrs the truck started right up like nothing was wrong.
Yesterday it did it to me again. This time I have it a small shot of starting fluid and it fired right up and ran like a champ all the way to the shop..... I got the call today from the mechanic saying I have 5 injectors that are bad, 2 glow plugs and harnesses. His quote was 2400 out the door.
I had this truck for two months no problems yesterday went on a small trip about 50 miles in on ,the hwy. I start seeing some smoke and then no power turned off & on engine several times a little hard starting no power at all I put the pedal to the floor It barely moves ran into another super d. guy he said fuel filters , I turned around and crawled back home and changed fuel filters still no power. no codes "don't no where to start".
View 8 RepliesAre they known to cause any noise? VGT Solenoid.
I have recently developed a slight whistle/squeal when boosting and when letting off on the pedal. I initially thought I had a CAC boot starting to split out, but since it's making the noise when I let off as well I doubt that the problem.
It isn't constant, and only does it for a second or two when it happens. It's not extremely loud, just loud enough to make you wonder what the heck it is...
Wheel bearing go out? My left front just starting making noise and when turned by hand you can hear the bearings are shot. Called around this morning and with my luck its on back order and the entire hub has to be replaced since the bearing is built into the hub.
Anyways, I was wondering replacing this unit themselves and how long it took to complete? I was going to let Ford do the work but I figured I have never done a job like this and wanted to give it a try and looking at some Youtube videos on older vehicles it did not look that difficult.
If I find that its not difficult I will tackle the other side as well since I figure it is probably not long before that side is gone also and I would not want that to fail while I am out towing somewhere.
I got a problem with my Ford F250 6.0 Diesel. The truck got a new HPOP but still wont start. ICP show everything between 15 und 75 PSI, it raises to 75 PSI max during cranking. The IPR shows 84,75% during cranking.
We get the code P0270 and P2285 in exchange but never together. We already checked the FICM but it looks good on the inside. I now ordered a new ICP sensor....
I have a 2005 F250 6.0l. I have no speedo and the ABS light is on. It was intermittent at first. It would go on and off if I hit a bump or braked quickly, but now for the last month the light has been on constantly.
I have tried the following to no avail:
1. check the harness to the VSS (rear ABS senor on the pumpkin)
2. replaced the VSS on the rear
3. check the lines from the vss for resistance and open short (and short to ground)
4. checked the HS-can network (pins 14 and 6 in the DLC to the respective HS-can + and - on the module) both have less than 5 ohms (about 3 ohms found) and no short.
5. checked the resistance of the network itself across pin 4-16 and found 60 ohms.
6. ran scans with OBD fusion for ABS (no abs found)
7. ran scans with forscan with laptop, does not detect ABS unit neither new or old module. note the TBC and IC both throw codes about not detecting the ABS.
8. check HS-can on the PCM as well as VSS wire from abs to pcm, no shorts or resistance.
9. check the number 11 fuse, (good) checked ALL fuses, only bad fuse found was trailer light number 20 engine bay. issue was a wire at the tailer connector was t-taped and not sealed leading to a short to frame.
10. checked the connector to the ABS module for power on both constant power pins, for open ground on both grounds, and power on run, all with in spec.
I've been diagnosing this for the last week, I am running out of things I can think of to check.
This is my first winter with my 05 F250 that has the 4wd controls on the floor. I'm just trying to figure out the proper way to put in in and out of 4wd. I did some reading and everyone talks about engaging the hubs, but my truck seems to have automatic hubs because the selector Is not on the outside of the hubs. Am I missing something obvious or am I just reading the wrong things. When I bought it at the end of summer, we tried 4wd out but only for a second and it would grind and be generally unhappy when we were doing it (while driving slow, and complete stop to go to low).
View 14 Replies2005 F250 4X4 6.0 .. Why my truck just stopped going when put in gear and the TOW/HAUL light just kept coming on, without pushing it 2 days prior? Now it will not go anywhere, starts great, gas pedal works because RPM's go up when pushing! Just will not go when put in drive or reverse! What else I can do? I replaced cylinoid B in the transmission, speed sensor, and brake switch.
View 14 RepliesMy 6.0 has been leaking oil for a couple weeks now, possibly longer judging by the staining underneath. Very slow leak. 1 drop hits the ground when I get off work and go to get in the next morning. It never really reads off the dipstick a drop in the level. I had to top up the oil yesterday but that is from about a 2-week span. But I want to get it fixed. I've attached pictures of where it's coming from and was hoping to get pointed in the right direction. Also its a 05 f250 and coming from the driver side.
View 14 RepliesThis has happened twice now, both times immediately after towing. I'll start it, begin to accelerate, and it will just putter out. It'll start right back up but it'll putter out again. After 20-30 minutes it'll start (and run). I have an edge programmer and it doesn't turn on when this happens. I get a turbo warning on it that the psi is at like 43/46 even though I'm essentially at idle so it seems to be getting a faulty error thinking the turbo is under too much load.
View 6 RepliesMy 05 F250 CC 4x4 had a problem where it was wondering to the right.
I had the front end checked out and they said everything was good and within spec but they discovered a bad tire (internal belt separation).
Had two new front tires installed/balanced and the problem seemed to go away for a few months.
Now the problem is back even with the new tires. Could the steering box cause this or is there something else I should be looking at?
a few times when making a tight turn on hilly terrain or a hill on a road, I've noticed a grinding sound in the front of the truck and a vibration in the steering wheel. I've so far chalked this up to the hill assist feature, but today I was on relatively flat ground in a parking lot with a dip in it. While crossing the dip in a tight turn, I noticed the same thing again.
I've checked the tires/wheel wells and there is no rubbing, etc.
I have a 2003 F250 6.0l 4x4 with 230k miles. All of a sudden it seems that the fan is very very loud and there may be a very little lost of power. Also i just replaced the fan clutch not sure if that may have anything to do with it. What could it be. I need to get this fixed this week...
View 14 RepliesAC compressor makes a loud growling noise and lugs the engine briefly when engaged at idle and the truck has been sitting for weeks. After that initial grind, it works perfectly and makes no harsh noises. Can I replace the compressor bearing or should I swap out the entire compressor?
View 2 RepliesI have been hearing a muffled thud or knocking noise often, especially when letting off of the accellerator when coming to a stop...almost sounds like some kind of bracket might be broken and some part is slapping against another. No particular consistency in the pattern of the sound...very strange. I had the car in for service to replace the stepper motor and the tech indicated he thought changing it would take care of it...it didn't.
View 3 Replies2005 Ford F250 6.0 Diesel (bought new). Never had a problem with the engine until about a month ago. Engine has 220,000 miles on it. Oil and filters changed regularly. Ran low (not out) of fuel, started sputtering badly but not killing. Filled up with diesel. Ran better, managed to get home. The next day it was dead. Crank but no start. Since then I have done the following (not in order):
- Changed EGR
- Changed ICP
- Changed IPR
- Changed the STC fitting
- Changed all seals in the HPOP
- Changed glow plugs and harnesses
- Tested each fuse and relay
- Installed new batteries
- FICM tested 48V
- Changed motor oil and filter
- Changed both fuel filters
- Checked for water in the fuel
- Purged air from fuel line
- Replaced dummy plugs
- No codes
- Prayed the rosary
One month later, still crank no start. Thinking about using it as target practice with the AR-15.
Ok so I'm looking at two trucks. One is a 02 f250 extended cab lariat 7.3 270,000 mi the other is a 05 f250 extended cab lariat 6.0 150,000 mi. The 6.0 has been bulletproofed by a reputable power stroke mechanic. I like them both iv never had a 6.0 always 7.3 ....
View 14 RepliesI literally just got this truck 1 week ago. '05 6.0 F250. I have read numerous other threads and have not found an answer. I will start from the beginning.
I was driving on the hwy and once the engine is hot and I am over 55mph the truck feels like it wants to stall. The rpms drop and come right back up. Its like a 'hiccup'. If it starts to act up and I pull over it remains at idle and not stall. Once i get back on the hwy IF I go over 55mph the truck will stall and I will not be able to start until cool.
After doing some reading through the forums I replaced the IPR on the HPOP.
I tested the high pressure oil system. I took off the valve covers and tested both the right and left side individually, with the IPR valve open and close; cannot find a leak.
I took the fitting off of the top of the HPOP and tested with air there as well. I only hear air out of the weep hole in the back behind the gear on the pump.
I took the oil pump off and charged the branch tube with air, no leaks.
I checked all the dummy plugs. They have been already replaced with the upgraded ones and the orings all looked good.
I took the upper half of the standpipes out - look good, orings looked good. I was unable to get the lower half of the standpipe out on the passenger side due to the air box and the driver side only the top half came out when unscrewed from the oil rail.
I put it all back together with 2 new batteries.
I started it, (started cold), drove it 25 miles and it stalled, let it cool down and it started. Drove it 20 more miles and I pulled into a parking lot and I shut it off, and it started right back up 3 times. When it shut it off on the highway I unplugged the ICP sensor and it did NOT start.
It runs fine until I go over 55mph then I am getting the same stall issue. I can drive it around under 50mph and have no issues. I drove it under 50mph and shut it off a total of 3 times and it started back up no problem. If I drive it over 55mph rpm gauge drops and then comes right back up and IF it stalls I cannot start until it cools. Once it stalls out, If I try to crank on it, my IPR is 84.8% IPC - 99-120.
I am using a Scanguage II at idle:
ICP - 18.5
IPR - 585
FMP - 47.5
My FICM Voltage stays between 12.5 - 13.0 while running.