Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2005 F250 - Fog Lights Stay On For A Minute Or Longer But Sooner Or Later Go Out
May 5, 2015
I have been having a problem with the fog lights on my 05 F-250 super duty truck. They won't come on when I'm parked but when I'm going down the road they'll come on and usually go right back off or will stay on for a min or longer but still sooner or later they go out. I think it's a shortage somewhere but I'm not sure on whether it's in the switch on the dash or somewhere in the wiring.
View 2 Replies
Advertisement
I have a 2006 f250 6.0 203,00 miles. At 196,000 miles turbo went out, bought power max turbo, redid head gaskets with studs, had heads shaved flat, replace oil cooler with ford part, egr delete, custom tune, aftermarekt 48 Volt FICM.
Truck ran great until 1 day didn't start. had to let truck cool down and then it stared oil pressure was only going to 350psi. drove home fine, shut it off and wonted start hot. drove it a few times after that just let truck idle. Then it started to crank longer when cold. Replaced dummy plug and stand pipe on drivers side only. Then truck was ok for a few drives then started to get a studer sometimes when idling. It got worse then was getting a misfire cyl 1 then, truck died 1 day turning around and would only build a 200 psi.
Replaced stand pipe and dummy plug on passenger side, and IPR, now getting misfire on cyl 8 and P2284, truck runs like crap, bad idle, rpms weird/gas pedal. idle is higher than it should be. when truck is first started shacks very bad, engine very nosiey. ICP 1046 psi(1.27Volts)Desired 637.9, idle and ipr 14.84, truck idles ok, when u punch gas revs up and comes back down, misfire gets worse with rpm.
Then icp goes to 870(2.23 Volts)Desired 870 and doesn't change when getting on the gas and ipr 32.42, punch it and rpms go up more then come back down. Truck starts to shake again. Could running it for so long with bad oil pressure or to much air wreak the injectors? When cold can shut off injector 7 or 8 doesn't change idle like all others do. Once warm 7 or 8 does make a small change in idle. If i command ipr to 20% idles fine, but icp no change from 32.42% to 20%...
View 1 Replies
I have a 2006 Fod F250 with the 6.0 Diesel, I just got it back from the shop after doing Ficm, Injectors, Glow Plugs, Glow Plug harnesses, and brakes. I have driven the truck about 200 miles and got it back to the shop and parked on a hill and rewired the 7 way trailer harness. Now it will start for a second or two and then die. I checked all fuses(dont know how to check relays), pulled DTC and got a low fuel pump voltage. I pulled the IDM relay and was getting power to 2 of the 4 terminals and plugged the relay back and was getting power to 3 of four terminals(not sure if Im spose to have power to all 4), not getting power to the IDM 10 amp fuse in engine compartment either.
View 2 Replies
I painted the senser on the dash black on the inside so the headlights stay on all the time. My question is the dash lights don't stay on all the time, I assumed they would with the headlights on and senser cover painted, drives me nuts with the dash lights coming on and off. How to make dash lights stay on.
View 14 Replies
My 2003 F250 started to sputter and died. Won't restart the rest of thw day. Go out next morning will start right up for about 1-2 min and dies like you shut thw key off. Won't restart. Cranks fine.
Oil pressure showing 1300lbs while cranking,ipr is 43% while cranking, but when koeo ipr is 97% which is weird. My excision shows 23% koeo.New oil,oem filters,fuel pressure is at 50 lbs while cranking. Seems electrical or something. Oil pump maybe but why 1300 lbs while cranking of that?
View 14 Replies
2004 Crewcab Lariat longbed 4wd. My interior and cargo lights stay on. I got in the other day and opened the truck to start it and when I closed the door the lights stayed on. I did a search and tried the following:
Lubed all the doors
Pulled door switches apart to verify operation
Disconnected the remote keyless entry module
Disconnected the instrument panel
Disconnected light switch
I found the following:
When I alarm the factory alarm with remote the alarm chirps once with doors closed, twice with them open. Looks like door switches are working.
Disconnected light switch. Lights stayed on
Disconnected Keyless entry module, lights stayed on
If I disconnect the instrument panel I can hear a relay switch. That tells me the relay isn't stuck. The lights do turn off at this point and will go off when I pull the fuse for the instrument panel.
Door switches all seem to work fine as eveidenced by factory alarm operation and the door opening indicator turns off.
Not sure where else to look and my Google Fu is not very strong today as I could not find anything like this issue.Is there another module that could be bad?
View 14 Replies
I have a 2005 Ford f250 Diesel 4x4 with - unfortunately - the crappy 6.0 engine. Yesterday my Daughter parked in the yard and this morning the truck not only will not start but will not even turn over. I thought maybe the batteries were dead but that is not he case. When you turn the switch on you can hear the pump start up but it will not turn over? All the lights come on and the bell comes on when you open the door and the dashboard lights work but the thing will just not turn over. I am assuming this may be some type of electrical issue or something but whatever the problem is it just came out of the blue. Ford imo should have recalled this engine.
View 14 Replies
I have an 05 f250 with 109k. Recently I turned off my truck, waited about 45 min or so and upon returning the truck would just crank and crank with no fire. After waiting about 4hrs the truck started right up like nothing was wrong.
Yesterday it did it to me again. This time I have it a small shot of starting fluid and it fired right up and ran like a champ all the way to the shop..... I got the call today from the mechanic saying I have 5 injectors that are bad, 2 glow plugs and harnesses. His quote was 2400 out the door.
View 5 Replies
I had this truck for two months no problems yesterday went on a small trip about 50 miles in on ,the hwy. I start seeing some smoke and then no power turned off & on engine several times a little hard starting no power at all I put the pedal to the floor It barely moves ran into another super d. guy he said fuel filters , I turned around and crawled back home and changed fuel filters still no power. no codes "don't no where to start".
View 8 Replies
I got a problem with my Ford F250 6.0 Diesel. The truck got a new HPOP but still wont start. ICP show everything between 15 und 75 PSI, it raises to 75 PSI max during cranking. The IPR shows 84,75% during cranking.
We get the code P0270 and P2285 in exchange but never together. We already checked the FICM but it looks good on the inside. I now ordered a new ICP sensor....
View 14 Replies
I have a 2005 F250 6.0l. I have no speedo and the ABS light is on. It was intermittent at first. It would go on and off if I hit a bump or braked quickly, but now for the last month the light has been on constantly.
I have tried the following to no avail:
1. check the harness to the VSS (rear ABS senor on the pumpkin)
2. replaced the VSS on the rear
3. check the lines from the vss for resistance and open short (and short to ground)
4. checked the HS-can network (pins 14 and 6 in the DLC to the respective HS-can + and - on the module) both have less than 5 ohms (about 3 ohms found) and no short.
5. checked the resistance of the network itself across pin 4-16 and found 60 ohms.
6. ran scans with OBD fusion for ABS (no abs found)
7. ran scans with forscan with laptop, does not detect ABS unit neither new or old module. note the TBC and IC both throw codes about not detecting the ABS.
8. check HS-can on the PCM as well as VSS wire from abs to pcm, no shorts or resistance.
9. check the number 11 fuse, (good) checked ALL fuses, only bad fuse found was trailer light number 20 engine bay. issue was a wire at the tailer connector was t-taped and not sealed leading to a short to frame.
10. checked the connector to the ABS module for power on both constant power pins, for open ground on both grounds, and power on run, all with in spec.
I've been diagnosing this for the last week, I am running out of things I can think of to check.
View 12 Replies
This is my first winter with my 05 F250 that has the 4wd controls on the floor. I'm just trying to figure out the proper way to put in in and out of 4wd. I did some reading and everyone talks about engaging the hubs, but my truck seems to have automatic hubs because the selector Is not on the outside of the hubs. Am I missing something obvious or am I just reading the wrong things. When I bought it at the end of summer, we tried 4wd out but only for a second and it would grind and be generally unhappy when we were doing it (while driving slow, and complete stop to go to low).
View 14 Replies
2005 F250 4X4 6.0 .. Why my truck just stopped going when put in gear and the TOW/HAUL light just kept coming on, without pushing it 2 days prior? Now it will not go anywhere, starts great, gas pedal works because RPM's go up when pushing! Just will not go when put in drive or reverse! What else I can do? I replaced cylinoid B in the transmission, speed sensor, and brake switch.
View 14 Replies
My 6.0 has been leaking oil for a couple weeks now, possibly longer judging by the staining underneath. Very slow leak. 1 drop hits the ground when I get off work and go to get in the next morning. It never really reads off the dipstick a drop in the level. I had to top up the oil yesterday but that is from about a 2-week span. But I want to get it fixed. I've attached pictures of where it's coming from and was hoping to get pointed in the right direction. Also its a 05 f250 and coming from the driver side.
View 14 Replies
This has happened twice now, both times immediately after towing. I'll start it, begin to accelerate, and it will just putter out. It'll start right back up but it'll putter out again. After 20-30 minutes it'll start (and run). I have an edge programmer and it doesn't turn on when this happens. I get a turbo warning on it that the psi is at like 43/46 even though I'm essentially at idle so it seems to be getting a faulty error thinking the turbo is under too much load.
View 6 Replies
My 05 F250 CC 4x4 had a problem where it was wondering to the right.
I had the front end checked out and they said everything was good and within spec but they discovered a bad tire (internal belt separation).
Had two new front tires installed/balanced and the problem seemed to go away for a few months.
Now the problem is back even with the new tires. Could the steering box cause this or is there something else I should be looking at?
View 2 Replies
2005 Ford F250 6.0 Diesel (bought new). Never had a problem with the engine until about a month ago. Engine has 220,000 miles on it. Oil and filters changed regularly. Ran low (not out) of fuel, started sputtering badly but not killing. Filled up with diesel. Ran better, managed to get home. The next day it was dead. Crank but no start. Since then I have done the following (not in order):
- Changed EGR
- Changed ICP
- Changed IPR
- Changed the STC fitting
- Changed all seals in the HPOP
- Changed glow plugs and harnesses
- Tested each fuse and relay
- Installed new batteries
- FICM tested 48V
- Changed motor oil and filter
- Changed both fuel filters
- Checked for water in the fuel
- Purged air from fuel line
- Replaced dummy plugs
- No codes
- Prayed the rosary
One month later, still crank no start. Thinking about using it as target practice with the AR-15.
View 14 Replies
Ok so I'm looking at two trucks. One is a 02 f250 extended cab lariat 7.3 270,000 mi the other is a 05 f250 extended cab lariat 6.0 150,000 mi. The 6.0 has been bulletproofed by a reputable power stroke mechanic. I like them both iv never had a 6.0 always 7.3 ....
View 14 Replies
I literally just got this truck 1 week ago. '05 6.0 F250. I have read numerous other threads and have not found an answer. I will start from the beginning.
I was driving on the hwy and once the engine is hot and I am over 55mph the truck feels like it wants to stall. The rpms drop and come right back up. Its like a 'hiccup'. If it starts to act up and I pull over it remains at idle and not stall. Once i get back on the hwy IF I go over 55mph the truck will stall and I will not be able to start until cool.
After doing some reading through the forums I replaced the IPR on the HPOP.
I tested the high pressure oil system. I took off the valve covers and tested both the right and left side individually, with the IPR valve open and close; cannot find a leak.
I took the fitting off of the top of the HPOP and tested with air there as well. I only hear air out of the weep hole in the back behind the gear on the pump.
I took the oil pump off and charged the branch tube with air, no leaks.
I checked all the dummy plugs. They have been already replaced with the upgraded ones and the orings all looked good.
I took the upper half of the standpipes out - look good, orings looked good. I was unable to get the lower half of the standpipe out on the passenger side due to the air box and the driver side only the top half came out when unscrewed from the oil rail.
I put it all back together with 2 new batteries.
I started it, (started cold), drove it 25 miles and it stalled, let it cool down and it started. Drove it 20 more miles and I pulled into a parking lot and I shut it off, and it started right back up 3 times. When it shut it off on the highway I unplugged the ICP sensor and it did NOT start.
It runs fine until I go over 55mph then I am getting the same stall issue. I can drive it around under 50mph and have no issues. I drove it under 50mph and shut it off a total of 3 times and it started back up no problem. If I drive it over 55mph rpm gauge drops and then comes right back up and IF it stalls I cannot start until it cools. Once it stalls out, If I try to crank on it, my IPR is 84.8% IPC - 99-120.
I am using a Scanguage II at idle:
ICP - 18.5
IPR - 585
FMP - 47.5
My FICM Voltage stays between 12.5 - 13.0 while running.
View 14 Replies
I have a 2005 F250 with 6.0 and almost 175,000. On vacation right now and noticed when I came out of a store that there was a puddle of water under the passengers side. Chalked it up to AC defrost. The second time I was not running AC and puddle again.
Felt and smelt of it...antifreeze. Just put in all new Zerex G05 and a new degas tank because when working on it I noticed a pin hole in the base before we left. I replaced the EGR cooler and hose from Sinister about 3 plus years ago.
Would the EGR cooler hose be leaking? I've noticed that white residue on top of the intake around the where the hose is. What would cause this, Heat, wear and tare....my luck ?
View 2 Replies
2005 F250 Superduty Crewcab 4x4 6.0L diesel/auto
Wife drove the truck before me and bunched the floor mat under the pedals. I didn't notice the mat issue when I drove the truck today. I accelerated fully after doing a left turn onto a busy highway. The motor spun up hard with the accelerator floored but because of the mats, the pedal stuck all the way down. I was approaching stopped traffic while under full acceleration and I shut the engine off and pulled over to the shoulder all while braking hard ( it was a hell of a ride!). I freed the pedal and restarted the engine.
Now, despite a bit less than 1/2 tank of fuel (I have the 38 gal tank), the dash readout was showing "Low Fuel", the gas gauge was below E and the engine was running like it was running out of fuel. I turned the engine off again and left it off for 1/2 hour before restarting it but the gauge and engine still behaved the same. As I drove to the nearest diesel station, the engine was not running "right". Of course the station I pulled into had 1 diesel pump and the pump was broken.
Because I thought I might actually be out of fuel, an understanding stranger took me to the store to buy some gas cans and then to another station to get 6 gallons of fuel. I got back to the truck and added the 6 gallons of fuel. When I turned the key on, the fuel gauge immediately came up to 1/2 tank. I then drove to that other station and added another 15 gallons of fuel to fill it. This confirmed that I had about 18 gallons of fuel in truck when the "Low fuel" warning occurred.
So, what the heck was going on with the fuel gauge? I am sure the "Low Fuel" warning is tied directly to the gauge but why was the gauge reading low? Is it possible that the "Key-off" while under full acceleration followed by hard braking had confused the ECU? I am just trying to figure out if I have a fuel sender problem or a confused computer that corrected itself. Until this incident, the fuel gauge has never been a problem but the wife messing up the mats has been an issue!
View 3 Replies
